Kisslicer for Tantillus

I'm trying it and liking it. There is a definite difference. These mini fig legs were done with .35 nozzle on fine setting. My printer currently is without fans and I have never adjusted the z offset in the old or kisslicer adjusted firmware. So.... maybe my prints could look even better.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/03/2012 03:36AM by Lisa M.

Question: How do you change the infill setting? I found the spot where I thought it should be, changed the infill, and then went to print but my object's infill was still the default amount.

I'm trying to print a 100% infill object and the default aint gonna cut it.

Its the slider that you found. The part you may have not noticed is it adds (1) incrementally to the end of the file name and you may have printed the first slice not the second or third etc.

Also the legs in the above picture look good. The rough overhangs are a result of not having the fans and the small size of the print. Once the fans are back on you will see how it improves them. Or print like ten at a time so they have time to cool.

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/05/2012 04:49AM by Lisa M.

Hmmm... I'm still having trouble getting KISSlicer to do a different infill other than default.



It saves my files as (0)

When I try to "Save Settings" it crashes on Windows 7.

When I choose "Close Settings Window" it reverts to default.

Anyone found a way to fix this? I really like everything else about the output.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/24/2012 09:21PM by Lisa M.

Are you using the configs I uploaded or the ones Pokey fixed to work on Windows [forums.reprap.org]

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Er... I was using the ones you uploaded. I missed Pokey's. I'll try that. Thanks!

...and it's working beautifully. Thank you!

Lisa M Wrote:
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> ...and it's working beautifully. Thank you!

Good to hear. The problem was that windows needs a {return} and a {new line} at the end of each line of text (not visible) and every other operating system in the world understand that they both mean the same thing and will except either or both without issue.

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So I am a convert to KISSLICER now, thanks all for the useful info on getting it going, big help. Once I had vomited into my coolant tray for my CNC over the color scheme I really got to like it (so much I was considering helping out and buying a licence). However I tried printing bits out for my metric/imperial tantillus test and I hit a snag when parts require bridging. See the attached shots.

I realize now that I could change the orientation of the carriage part to help but the Z part I can't see an orientation change helping out.

Looking through the KISSLICER forum it appears that this is a bit of a topic they are trying to sort out, but no solution yet. So my question is now, is it better when attempting bridging to use good old Slic3r or is Cura until KISSLICER is sorted? Also if it is Cura, does/are there any configs as a good starting point?

willworkforplastic Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> So I am a convert to KISSLICER now, thanks all for
> the useful info on getting it going, big help.
> Once I had vomited into my coolant tray for my CNC
> over the color scheme I really got to like it (so
> much I was considering helping out and buying a
> licence). However I tried printing bits out for my
> metric/imperial tantillus test and I hit a snag
> when parts require bridging. See the attached
> shots.
>
> I realize now that I could change the orientation
> of the carriage part to help but the Z part I
> can't see an orientation change helping out.
>
> Looking through the KISSLICER forum it appears
> that this is a bit of a topic they are trying to
> sort out, but no solution yet. So my question is
> now, is it better when attempting bridging to use
> good old Slic3r or is Cura until KISSLICER is
> sorted? Also if it is Cura, does/are there any
> configs as a good starting point?

Yes Cura has smart bridging. No profiles to share just yet.

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FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
Tantillus.org	Mini Printable Lathe	How NOT to install a Pololu driver

I just came across this [solidoodletips.wordpress.com] and it shows all the slicers strengths and weaknesses.

He did more tests after that one.
[solidoodletips.wordpress.com]
[solidoodletips.wordpress.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/31/2013 10:52PM by Sublime.

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FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
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Kisslicer does produce great prints. It does have few quirks and misses brim feature, but Jonathan is promising to solve these out.

There is an option to add a model of a print bed to a configuration of any defined printer you have. I find it great idea. While not necessary and bit gimicky, it is pretty cool.







Just below you can download the model.

Thanks the bed model was on my todo list. Is it oriented the correct way to show the bed backwards since Tantillus has the home at the back right but Kisslicer expects the front left?

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Yeap, you are right. My Tantillus is not very ortodox in its settings and while setting all up, I decided that home is front left. It is like on my other printer to keep it simple.
Why did you decided to have home back right instead of front left?

Attached is the rotated bed.

mfeherpataky Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Why did you decided to have home back right
> instead of front left?

So when you reach in to take the printed part out you don't burn yourself on the hotend.

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Ahhh... I usually take the glass out with the print. Especially now with the z-cable, when the bed drops 10mm+.
However, left front makes it easier to understand when you look at what a slicer produces.

But now with the bed model as a reference point wherever the home is it should be fine.

I think the normal way is wrong for Mendel based machines as well. I home my Prusa in the back right as well so the bed comes outward at the end and beginning of the print which makes part removal and cleaning the bed far easier.

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I like the quality but I feel it's not right to blame any of the slic3r results on slicer.
From what I see you have:
- zits as you have too slow retract in slic3r
- stringers as you either have inadequate cooling or poor retract combined with slow travel speed
- hollow walls due to imprecise machine slop not taken into account or wrong extrusion width/feed/flow.

What I am interested in is the path chosen to print.
Is it better than Slic3r? Slic3r has a tendency to go back accross the print to do infills on seperate sections instead of outlining and filling as it goes. Result is slow and increased stringers.

No its all Slic3r. Here are some video comparisons of Slic3r vs Kisslicer (newest Slic3r vs old Kisslicer). Be sure to have a read through the entire thread. It shows comparisons from well tuned machines that give some of the best results anywhere and Kisslicer still gives better results. Also all the settings are the same except on Kisslicer travels are slower because it does not need to worry about ooze or thousands of travel moves for no reason.

[www.youtube.com]
[www.youtube.com] (on an Aluminutis from Trinity labs that claims to have the best prints)

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FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
Tantillus.org	Mini Printable Lathe	How NOT to install a Pololu driver