I am just curious what everyone is using for settings.

Are you using the ones I provided?
Have you found any settings that just have to be changed from the defaults?
Are you using different hardware and thus require different settings?

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Not likely the detailed info you're seeking, but I'll chime in.

I've not been printing at the same rate as many of you, and am slightly less obsessive (read: hack) about calibration. But I've generally been getting good results from the settings your provided Sublime. I'm certainly not versed enough with the KS settings to really make changes that work for the better in general. I've created some new styles, but haven't found them to be superior to the default settings for the most part.

Besides the awesome results you're getting, I have that green bolt with perfect threads (I forget who posted their picture of it) seared into my brain as what I'm striving toward in terms of quality. I've just been lazy to calibrate my XY accurately.

Funny thing - just in writing this post, I've gone and found the KS quickstart guide!!! Now I can figure out what some of these terms mean

Cheers!

I'm using the Tantillus KS profiles, with some small changes.

I have a .4 nozzle, so I used the Tantillus calculator to make the .4 styles. I print at the temperatures from the calculator (wish the temperature setting would be somehow linked to styles/speed, or at least visible all the time).

I print with absolute E, this is to keep my sanity as my CNC also takes absolute position gcode. (BTW: why relative E? Was that to make load/unload and purge/retract work in the firmware?)

In the firmware I have default acceleration at 5000, currently experimenting with PID and steps per unit are slightly different, probably due to difference in rod/fishing line diameter.

I set home at front left, this is again to keep things similar to my CNC.

The fans always run at 100%, I found this worked better when printing under 0.1mm layer height and ended up just keeping it there.

I home at x0y0, then purge some filament and wipe in the prefix:

; absolute mode with absolute E
G90
M82
M109 S200
; home Z
G2 Z
G1 Z1 F700
;G1 X50 Y50 F3000
G28 Z0.0

; Z-offset negative
G1 Z0.1

; Z-offset positive
G92 Z0.0

; purge some stuff and wipe
G1 Z3
G92 E0
G1 F500 E2
G92 E0
G1 X5 Y5 Z0

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/07/2013 08:26PM by lajos.

@ Ernchesto

All feed back is good feed back. Glad to hear the default settings are still working for you.

@ Lajos

Glad the calculator is working for you. All the old slicers kept the settings together and then all of a sudden all the slicers started dividing them up as if they do not all work together which they clearly do.

Relative E is for multiple reasons:
Easy to go through the gcode and debug.
Easy to use find and replace to change the retract distances.
Easy to change filament mid print.
Easy to cut and paste a bunch of different gcode file together to create the impossible slices (say no support for the first 10mm and the lots of support for the next 25mm and then medium support for the rest. Or different infill amounts or different perimeter counts).
In the past at least some firmwares could not handle the really high numbers generated with Absolute.
Easy to hand write gcode for start gcode where it draws a square or line to prime the hotend before printing.

Quote
Absolute
; purge some stuff and wipe
G1 Z3
G92 E0
G1 F500 E2
G92 E0
G1 X5 Y5 Z0

Quote
Relative
; purge some stuff and wipe
G1 Z3
G1 F500 E2
G1 X5 Y5 Z0

When you say the default accel is 5000 do you mean the default maximum or the default. If it is the default then it can make for even nicer prints but it can run into reliability issues. If it is the maximum then is there a reason you lowered it?

Maybe it would be good to start a thread with peoples PID settings for different hotends to give people a better starting point when they want to use it.

I would be interested in hearing what diameter rods and lines you are using and the corresponding steps per mm and maybe then I can figure out a proper formula to calculate it.

Front home does make sense. Like I said before it is backwards by default for safety reasons.

For the fans what CFM are you using?

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FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
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I'm using your settings, tweeked to fit my machine:

- retractation speed 49
- flow 408
- fan alway at 50 % (mine is to big to run at 100%)
- speed 100%, tested ok up to 175% (but the motor noise upset me )

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/09/2013 05:58AM by Nico3ck.

> For the fans what CFM are you using?

I'm using fans from this HDD cooler. (Buying the HDD cooler with two fans was much cheaper than buying two fans.) The description claims 9.43 CFM.

When printing under 0.1mm layer height the extra cooling (and KS prime cylinder) helped, not sure if it has any effect on larger layer height, just left it there because I forgot. I never had an issue with the carriage getting warm, even at the default fan setting.

> PID settings

I've used the auto tuner in marlin for the PID settings at 190 Celsius (M303 S190). It gave Kp=34.00 Ki=2.77 Kd=104.17 for a 0.4mm hotends.com j-head.

> 5000 do you mean the default maximum or the default

The default acceleration I'm currently using is 5000, max acceleration is 8000. I've not had any issues at 5000, even used 8000 as default with repetier (although that was an accident, before I figured out that acceleration was set different in repetier). I haven't experienced any issues so far.

> relative E

All your points make perfect sense.

> steps per unit

My 5/16" rods measure 7.9mm. The fishing line seems to have been smushed to an oval, horizontally it measures 0.5mm, vertically (the way it wraps around the rod) is 0.35mm. I'm using 1/32 microstepping on X, Y and Z, the firmware setting after calibrating with 20x20x10 cube:

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {247,247,205,505}

lajos Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> > For the fans what CFM are you using?
>
> I'm using fans from this HDD cooler. (Buying the
> HDD cooler with two fans was much cheaper than
> buying two fans.) The description claims 9.43
> CFM.

Well that makes sense then why you are printing at 100% all the time. The fans I recommend are 12+ cfm

> > 5000 do you mean the default maximum or the
> default
>
> The default acceleration I'm currently using is
> 5000, max acceleration is 8000. I've not had any
> issues at 5000, even used 8000 as default with
> repetier (although that was an accident, before I
> figured out that acceleration was set different in
> repetier). I haven't experienced any issues so
> far.

You have strong motors and a well assembled machine so you should be able to go all day at those speeds (even higher) but with weaker motors or too much friction the 3000 I have set as default is a little safer. But by all means crank it up as high as you like. It makes for much smoother surface finish (except with layer shift from skipped steps)

> > steps per unit
>
> My 5/16" rods measure 7.9mm. The fishing line
> seems to have been smushed to an oval,
> horizontally it measures 0.5mm, vertically (the
> way it wraps around the rod) is 0.35mm. I'm using
> 1/32 microstepping on X, Y and Z, the firmware
> setting after calibrating with 20x20x10 cube:
>
>
> #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT
> {247,247,205,505}

At 1/16 stepping that is only 1 step per mm more than the default and that could be from the smaller rods.

But be warned setting the steps per mm based on a printed object is a bad idea. If the flow is off by any amount the steps per mm will be off and then things get scaled because of it. I highly recommend using a dial gauge or digital calipers attached to the carriage and measure from the case wall to ensure you are getting the correct movement lengths.

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> But by all means crank it up as high as you like.

I'm working on a second printer, as soon as that's up and running as a backup, I'll do some speed tests

> dial gauge or digital calipers attached to the carriage and measure from the case wall to ensure you are getting the correct movement lengths

Makes total sense. This is why I like coming to the Tantillus forum (or reading your posts in general): I always learn something new.

lajos Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> > But by all means crank it up as high as you
> like.
>
> I'm working on a second printer, as soon as that's
> up and running as a backup, I'll do some speed
> tests

Is it a second Tantillus?

The videos on this page [www.tantillus.org] show my first Tantillus with the max acceleration at 9000 and the X/Y jerk at 20.

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FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
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> Is it a second Tantillus?

Once you go cable drive you never go back, right?

The project came about while looking for an excuse to learn openscad. So based on the Tantillus, I started working on a parametric dual extruder cable drive setup. It's still in planning stages, as soon as I have something physical, I'll post about it.

> max acceleration at 9000 and the X/Y jerk at 20

Sounds good, I'll give it a try! Worst thing that can happen is just some cable retightening, right?

lajos Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> > Is it a second Tantillus?
>
> Once you go cable drive you never go back, right?
>
>
> The project came about while looking for an excuse
> to learn openscad. So based on the Tantillus, I
> started working on a parametric dual extruder
> cable drive setup. It's still in planning stages,
> as soon as I have something physical, I'll post
> about it.
>
> > max acceleration at 9000 and the X/Y jerk at
> 20
>
> Sounds good, I'll give it a try! Worst thing that
> can happen is just some cable retightening, right?

No just skipped steps and ruined prints.

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FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
Tantillus.org	Mini Printable Lathe	How NOT to install a Pololu driver

I use your default KS settings and depending on the temperature in the room and particular filament I might adjust flow rate and the nozzle temp a bit on the fly.