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Tantillus heated bed using aluminium clad element

Posted by Robonz 
Tantillus heated bed using aluminium clad element
December 05, 2013 01:21AM
Before I assemble my heated bed I thought I would post up a video of all the parts and the plan as it stands. Let me know if you have any good recomendations.


I will assemble it all soon and see if it works. I guess I just need to change one line of code in Marlin?

for 100K thermister

Is that all?

Re: Tantillus heated bed using aluminium clad element
December 05, 2013 02:04AM
Neat! I started thinking about building my own HBP last night. Been fighting a warping with PLA for a bit now with not much luck. I keep thinking I'm doing something wrong but there are so many variables it's hard to know where to start. I'm envious of the prints you showed in the video smiling smiley
Re: Tantillus heated bed using aluminium clad element
December 05, 2013 12:46PM
Curious why it's so much more complicated then what is shown HERE
Re: Tantillus heated bed using aluminium clad element
December 05, 2013 05:43PM

I didnt really find it complicated. Its just a few cuts and drill holes mostly for a few bits. Looking at that link those beds have issues. I will cover a few quickly.

1) Adding a thermal fuse means you reduce the risk of waking up to a fire in the middle of the night, or a melted printer. That was really important to me,
2) There is a large air gap between the PCB and the glass, so the glass temperature would vary compared to the bed. Also the heat won't be transfered as well. My bed has no gap at all.
3) There is no strain relief on the wiring so it can break over time. I guess i was going for low maintianance there.
4) I chose to add a switcher so I could get more power in with "common" power supplies. I thought being a able to adjust the bed power was pretty cool too, I was not sure how much power I needed.
5) The bed described has warpage issues as it heats. With the aluminium plate mine will stay much flatter and have better thermal inertia too. I won't be putting my bulldog clips on the PCB either. This was very important. The pockets take care of that.
6) The thermal break layer means a lot of energy won't be lost and the termperature will be more stable, especially in changing ambient conditiions.
7) The tufnol layer is also important as the mounting screws will get hot and you wouldnt want them to move if mounted in acrylic. The acrlic layer at the bottom of the bed could also deform so tufnol takes care of that too.

Another note I forgot to mention. I do plan to print ABS and nylon so the bed could be run quite hot.

I do tend to build things better than I need to, but I look at this as a workshop machine that needs to work on demmand and be low maintainance. That's part of the reason mine is belt drive too. I will see how it turns out.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/05/2013 07:39PM by Robonz.
Re: Tantillus heated bed using aluminium clad element
December 06, 2013 02:19AM
Looks good. A little overkill maybe but the regular PCB heated bed on most repraps is the bare minimum so everything looks a little overkill next to them.

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Re: Tantillus heated bed using aluminium clad element
December 08, 2013 07:36AM
I assembled the heated bed tonight and tested it with the buck switcher, it worked nicely. I set it up for 7amps which was 9 volts = 63 watts. I can turn up the power if I want more. I took it up to 70C the thermister was reading under 20K ohms which looks about right.

I took some photos if you want to see the assembly. I also put a couple of prints photos in there too.


comments welcome!

Re: Tantillus heated bed using aluminium clad element
January 20, 2014 10:12PM
I had to do a bunch of thin flat prints so I finally hooked up the heated bed. There were a couple of catches. I had to lower the bed by about 0.1 mm as my first print was grinding the bed. I guess the thermal expansion raised the bed by 0.1.

I fired it up to 60C and it took 3 minutes 5 seconds to get up to temp.

The results are amazing (to me anyway), my prints are now extremely flat, yay! The other catch was I had to add gcode to postfix so the bed turns off at the end of the print. While I was in there I replaced the 5 volt regulator so my machine can run off 19.5 volts I will add the power supply next.. Here is the 5 volt regulator I used. It is an I50115 and its "O for orsome".
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