Some questions want to ask

Here are some questions in my mind and want to ask or confirm before building my Tantillus:

Motor

Model no.: 42BYGH40-402A
Step angle: 1.8°
Length: 39mm
Rated voltage: 3.15V
Rated current: 1.5A
Phase resistance: 2.1Ω
Phase inductance: 1.9 mH
Holding torque: 3.0 kgf.cm
Lead wire: 4
Rotor inertia: 54 g.cm
Weight: 0.28kg

I am not so sure this motor alright for Tantillus which I am going to order. Does it have enough torque?

J-head/ hot end
Seems I can only get MKV (worst case may get MKIV) instead of MK Vb. Looks like there are no sizes different but will I face any problems if I just use MK V? (Planned to use 1.75mm in feed and 0.35mm nozzle)


Power supply

BOM : 90 watt power supply (15V @ 5/6A)
I have an old ASUS laptop transformer (Output: 19V @ 4.74A) and want to use it to power up my Tantillus. However the supplier for my ramps and mega said the D1 pin on ramps will not be soldered and told us the buyer to give both circuit board separate power supply. I am not sure is this the situation you guys having when building Tantillus and could I just solder them in parallel (or even add some resistance) so I can use my old laptop transformer to power up everything?


Hobbed bolt

I am building metric 1.75mm Tantillus. Due to lack of tools I may not able to make my M8 X 110 into Hobbed bolt. As previous post mentioned 1.75mm in feed doesn’t need to craft so deep, is it possible don’t even craft? Or is there any alternative method I can use?

Thank You
Cow

Quote
cowie
Here are some questions in my mind and want to ask or confirm before building my Tantillus:

Motor

Model no.: 42BYGH40-402A
Step angle: 1.8°
Length: 39mm
Rated voltage: 3.15V
Rated current: 1.5A
Phase resistance: 2.1Ω
Phase inductance: 1.9 mH
Holding torque: 3.0 kgf.cm
Lead wire: 4
Rotor inertia: 54 g.cm
Weight: 0.28kg

I am not so sure this motor alright for Tantillus which I am going to order. Does it have enough torque?

The specs look good but I googled that part number and found no information.

Quote
cowie
J-head/ hot end
Seems I can only get MKV (worst case may get MKIV) instead of MK Vb. Looks like there are no sizes different but will I face any problems if I just use MK V? (Planned to use 1.75mm in feed and 0.35mm nozzle)

It has used the MK-vb since its release. I have never seen Brian make a none brass version (the b in the name). If it is not from hotends.com I would not buy it. The clones are absolute garbage and should not be used. There are a couple of companies making good ones but not many (check j-head blog for a list). A real MK-IVb is much longer then the MK-Vb and may reduce the maximum build height.

Quote
cowie
Power supply

BOM : 90 watt power supply (15V @ 5/6A)
I have an old ASUS laptop transformer (Output: 19V @ 4.74A) and want to use it to power up my Tantillus. However the supplier for my ramps and mega said the D1 pin on ramps will not be soldered and told us the buyer to give both circuit board separate power supply. I am not sure is this the situation you guys having when building Tantillus and could I just solder them in parallel (or even add some resistance) so I can use my old laptop transformer to power up everything?

The power supply looks ok but not all Arduino clones can handle 15v. Some can only handle 12v max.

Quote
cowie
Hobbed bolt

I am building metric 1.75mm Tantillus. Due to lack of tools I may not able to make my M8 X 110 into Hobbed bolt. As previous post mentioned 1.75mm in feed doesn’t need to craft so deep, is it possible don’t even craft? Or is there any alternative method I can use?

Thank You
Cow

It does need to be hobbed. I still have a couple available, if you want one PM me for details.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/10/2013 03:48PM by Sublime.

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Thanks, i had figure that out already.

Now i am facing a problem that when i fine tuning the A4988 and all in sudden a pop sound and white smoke come between two boards. After that i can't provide power to RAMP but using USB from ARDUINO is fine. Without power on RAMP i cant continue...

Would you please help what's going on?

Thank You!

Cow

There is a diode that feeds power from the Ramps board to the Arduino that may have died. It could also be your Arduino was not able to handle the voltage and the regulator died.

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But the Arduino Work fine, it still can control the RAMP. So what you suggest i should do to fix it? I cant find any part burn...

the regulator died? i just check it again and find this part burn on Arduino

is there possible to remove it and replace a new one?

Yes you could replace just that part but I do not know the part number. You could also just use the machine while plugged into the computer or powered USB hub. You could also buy a Tuarino which is an Arduino variant that can handle 36+ volts.

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Thanks, i had google it and find someone did this before with 7805 IC could work

http://www.instructables.com/id/Fix-a-fried-Arduino-Mega/?ALLSTEPS

And my Arduino mega works fine. Now i am facing a problem that i connect the fans to the RAMP but the fans just not turning and have continues beep sound. Any suggestion what it mean?

PS: i have test two fans with 12V battery and they work fine.
Fan i had: Sunon 40 X 40 X 10 mm DC 12 V 1.6W

Is it possible to connect to external DC system?

Thanks

What level are you setting the fans at? Some DC fans don't like being driven by a PWM, and will only work at high duty cycles (~100% or 255 on the LCD). There was a thread on here somewhere about using an RC circuit to convert the PWM into a pure DC voltage, which might make the fans happier.

Yes AGstumps is correct. I always uses an RC filter to smooth out the PWM to an analog voltage which allows lower speeds. Without one you can increase the minimum fan speed in the firmware to a point at which your fans will run their slowest.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/30/2014 01:32PM by Sublime.

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Quote
AGStumps8807
What level are you setting the fans at? Some DC fans don't like being driven by a PWM, and will only work at high duty cycles (~100% or 255 on the LCD). There was a thread on here somewhere about using an RC circuit to convert the PWM into a pure DC voltage, which might make the fans happier.

Here's the thread you were looking for.

[forums.reprap.org]

Robert

Thank you all, i just set 255 in the firmware as fans just work on that.

I am facing another issue that when i click home button the Z will go down ( about 10) instead of going back to the original position. Is it because i just connect only 4 pins instead of 8 pins of the Z motor? How you guys connect them?

Thanks!

Quote
cowie
Thank you all, i just set 255 in the firmware as fans just work on that.

I am facing another issue that when i click home button the Z will go down ( about 10) instead of going back to the original position. Is it because i just connect only 4 pins instead of 8 pins of the Z motor? How you guys connect them?

Thanks!

Sounds like the endstop wiring is inverted or not connected. Make sure you have it connected to the Z min. If it is that you wired it inverted you can change it in the firmware config to work or re-wire it.

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Thanks, i just reverse the logic in the firmware and it work fine now.

So far i just print 20X20X10.stl . I don't understand why the position move when the infill layer start (see attached pictures). And i find the centre in kisslicer is not the centre of the print area...


I had check all the cables of X and Y axis and find no problem. Is there any setting i did wrong?

Thanks

P.S.
first try with 25% infill


second try just hollow

The offset is a result of skipped steps. It could be friction or underpowered motors etc. Try lowering the travel speed to 120 from 150. Also check if the grub screws on the gears are all tight.

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Right, i tried 120 but the problem occur. Only in 100 hollow trial success but it is 2mm shorter (ie 20X20X8 as result)

is it because i am using standard M6 thread rod for Z ??


However the 25% infill still have offset problem when the speed at 100, it happen when printing the infill layer but it back to right position when printing the cover. I had try both round and straight infill but still having the same problem. Is it any setting goes wrong?

Thanks

PS: I had double check all the hardware and they are fine. The 25% infill trial was right after the successful hollow version.

It does not sound like you have changed your Z steps per mm to work with the m6 rod. This will cause each layer to be shorter and that causes the head to drag through the plastic which in turn causes it to skip steps. If you fix that (I think it should be 3200 steps per mm) you should not have the skipped steps issue and should be able to increase the travel speed.

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Thanks, i had change to 3200 steps per unit. However the situation did not improve...i try to lower the accelerate value in the firmware and the LCD did not get change after upload. It was fine when i change the Fan speed value as mention above. I am not sure is the step per unit value get update or not (i try M92 but no respond at Pronterface). Are there any clue for that??

Thanks

Did you make the changes in the firmware or did you try doing it with Gcode? In the Tantillus branch of Marlin EEPROM is turned off so you need to make the changes in the firmware and re-upload it to the board. This ensures you have a copy of the correctly set up firmware on your computer so you do not have to re-calibrate it if your Arduino dies etc. Also when the EEPROM is enabled it causes a lot of troubleshooting issues because it overrides newly uploaded firmware settings which makes no sense to me.

Last thing is have a read through WillWorkForPlastics metric Tantillus thread. I believe he may have had to lower his acceleration or jerk settings for use with a Metric lead screw.

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I always make changes at firmware but i found the default acc. and speed never change in LCD... Thank you for your information and i try to check the EEPROM and found it still enable in the fresh download firmware. So i comment out #define EEPROM_SETTINGS and finally the value change in firmware and i can set 3200 for the step per unit.

Now it work fine when i decrease the speed, acc. and jerk (although still have occasionally skipping steps).

Lastly, want to ask about storage. As some posts mention that filament should stay dry but how about Tantillus itself? Is it better to loosen the fishing line if not in use for a long period of time?

Thank You for the kindly help!

I do nothing to store my machines. The reason we need to keep the filament dry is because when you go to extrude it the heat causes the water in the filament to boil and that produces steam which comes out of the nozzle along with some plastic which causes bubbles in the extruded plastic which makes the parts weak. For the cables if anything you want to tighten them up after a few hours/days/weeks and only ever touch them if they need to be retensioned.

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