first connecting to mac

Hi,
my tantillus is finished and I've connected electronics to start settings!
I use repetier-host , I connect it but I have an error concerning j-head temperature!
I don't see it, inticates zero degrees!
termocouple is connected on T0 and D10 for temperature cables
I connect endstop and only x motor
can someone help me?
what settings needed in marlin?
I use "sublime" marlin settings
thank you in advance and excuse me for bad english!!!

p.s.also manual controls don't work!!


this is log in repetier


15:05:51: Attempting to connect to printer
15:05:51: Connection opened
< 15:06:01: start
< 15:06:01: echo:Marlin: 1.0.0 RC2
< 15:06:01: echo: Last Updated: 2012-07-17 | Author: Sublime
< 15:06:01: echo: Free Memory: 4449 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232
< 15:06:01: echo:Using Default settings:
< 15:06:01: Error:0
< 15:06:01: : Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered !
< 15:06:01: Errorrinter stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart!. (Temperature is reset. Set it before restarting)
< 15:06:03: echoD init fail
< 15:06:03: FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; Sprinter/grbl mashup for gen6 FIRMWARE_URL:[www.mendel-parts.com] PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:Mendel EXTRUDER_COUNT:1
< 15:06:05: Error:checksum mismatch, Last Line:7

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 06/30/2014 09:25AM by mdcompositi.

The manual controls will not work if the temperature is not reading correct.

The firmware is set up for a thermistor not a thermocouple. I am not sure of what changes are required to run a thermocouple, but I do know you require a special interface board. I would read up on using a thermocouple or switch to a thermistor.

---

FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
Tantillus.org	Mini Printable Lathe	How NOT to install a Pololu driver

sorry I meant termistor!!!
...and temperature that repetier see is zero degrees!
On my prusa i3 at first time Ive connected electronics this problem don't happened!!

Anyway I have also the problem about regulations for vref on pololu
I have A4983, what are vref?
x 0.4v
y 0.4v
z 0.4v
extruder 0.8v
are these good settings?
motors run very bad, they make metallic rumors

can you indicate me a link were I can found right informations about?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/30/2014 11:57AM by mdcompositi.

Do you have the thermistor set the correct one in Marlin? Have you checked to make sure all the connections are good and that you have continuity at the end of the cable?

I don't use the vref to tune the drivers. If you read the Tantillus instructions there is a part near the end that tells you how to calibrate the current.

---

FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
Tantillus.org	Mini Printable Lathe	How NOT to install a Pololu driver

can you indicate me the line in marlin that configure termistor and what is the right condition?
I've seen in tantillus.org calibration instructions, you make it without a tester?? with your experience?
I've calibrated stepper on my prusa with tester and ampere regulation and I've tried very simple
but now it's very strange.....

can you suggest me a way??

For the thermistor in Marlin you change line 61 of configuration.h to match which ever thermistor you are using from the list (lines 47-59). If your thermistor is not listed you may need to add it to thermistortable.h (you are most likely able to copy it from a newer version of Marlin).

If you read the instructions it tells you to adjust the current until the motors move and then adjust it a tiny bit if it makes a high pitched noise until it stops making the noise. By using this method you run the motor at the lowest current it will run and with the adjustment for noise you ensure the current chopping circuit is running as close to sinusoidal as possible.

If you simply adjust them based on the vref you could be running the motors much hotter than needed and it can even cause it to skip the microsteps and not move smoothly.

---

FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
Tantillus.org	Mini Printable Lathe	How NOT to install a Pololu driver

I use this j-head

[www.ebay.it]

with NTC Epcos 3950

the code line in marlin is the first of following

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0

I have to make changes?
but I don't think that my problem is due to that lines but waiting for your advice!!

concerning motor calibration I try as you say but I have problems !!
have I try connecting one motor at time?

I've changed first line above like this:

#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 1

now j-head works good and I read a temperature!
...but have problems with motors settings!!
I try to set them by connecting a motor to turn
I have now connected only x but I can not remove the noise and make it run smoothly

I can not understand how you say you do!
in practice I have to go to attempts by turning the potentiometer without reading any value with a tester!
but so I do not have a starting point and go round and round the potentiometer screw to no avail!

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/01/2014 05:39AM by mdcompositi.

Quote
Sublime
For the thermistor in Marlin you change line 61 of configuration.h to match which ever thermistor you are using from the list (lines 47-59). If your thermistor is not listed you may need to add it to thermistortable.h (you are most likely able to copy it from a newer version of Marlin).

If you read the instructions it tells you to adjust the current until the motors move and then adjust it a tiny bit if it makes a high pitched noise until it stops making the noise. By using this method you run the motor at the lowest current it will run and with the adjustment for noise you ensure the current chopping circuit is running as close to sinusoidal as possible.

If you simply adjust them based on the vref you could be running the motors much hotter than needed and it can even cause it to skip the microsteps and not move smoothly.

I use this j-head

[www.ebay.it]

with NTC Epcos 3950

the code line in marlin is the first of following

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0

I have to make changes?
but I don't think that my problem is due to that lines but waiting for your advice!!

concerning motor calibration I try as you say but I have problems !!
have I try connecting one motor at time?


I've changed first line above like this:

#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 1

now j-head works good and I read a temperature!
...but have problems with motors settings!!
I try to set them by connecting a motor to turn
I have now connected only x but I can not remove the noise and make it run smoothly

I can not understand how you say you do!
in practice I have to go to attempts by turning the potentiometer without reading any value with a tester!
but so I do not have a starting point and go round and round the potentiometer screw to no avail!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/01/2014 12:01PM by mdcompositi.

It looks like you have the thermistor connected to the second thermistor location not the first (the first is 0 not 1)

If the motors just vibrate and do not move it could be a few things.

Bad driver.
Weak motor.
Too much friction (too tight of bushings, too tight of gear meshing, too thick of hotend mount acrylic (should be 2.8 - 3.0 mm).
Misaligned axis.
Trying to move the axis too fast.
Incorrect microstep settings.

---

FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
Tantillus.org	Mini Printable Lathe	How NOT to install a Pololu driver

Sorry!!!
problem solved for the moment about termistor!!
bad location as you say!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

about the motors I'm waiting to change drivers, also I think that they are bad (A4988 green colour)
I'm waiting for that
[reprap.org]
I have them mounted on my Prusa and i3 are fine!

As soon as I arrive I see what happens and let you know!
thanks for your time and congratulations for your work

Quote
mdcompositi
Sorry!!!
problem solved for the moment about termistor!!
bad location as you say!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

about the motors I'm waiting to change drivers, also I think that they are bad (A4988 green colour)
I'm waiting for that
[reprap.org]
I have them mounted on my Prusa and i3 are fine!

As soon as I arrive I see what happens and let you know!
thanks for your time and congratulations for your work

problem about motor calibration NOT solved!!
can you say me if power supply I use is the right ?



[www.emakershop.com]


these are motors I use

NEMA17 STAMPANTE 3D
Part No.: 42BYGHW208
Frame Size: NEMA17
Step Angle: 1.8 degree
Voltage: 12V
Current: 1.7 A/phase
Resistance: 30 Ohm/phase
Inductance: 35 mH/phase
Holding torque: 2800g-cm 40OZ-IN
Rotor inertia: 35 g-cm2
Detent torque: 0.16 kg-cm
Num. wire : 4
Weight: 0.24 kg
Length: 34mm
Motor Shaft: 5mm


other question!
how can I calibrate microsteps?

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/05/2014 07:58AM by mdcompositi.

The power supply looks fine. I run my Tantillus off of 15V to allow a little faster step rates as well as faster heating times but other than that yours should work fine.

The motors are not correct. Although they are the correct current (1.7A) they are not the correct resistance or voltage. We want about 1.65ohms of resistance and you have 30ohms. We want the lowest voltage motors you can get (usually around 2.8V) and you have 12V motors. Both of these means unless you have a high voltage power supply 24-30v you will not be able to reach the rated amperage unless you step extremely slowly and even then the drivers will most likely not like it.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/05/2014 03:32PM by Sublime.

---

FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
Tantillus.org	Mini Printable Lathe	How NOT to install a Pololu driver

Also the microstepping is set vis the jumpers under the drivers.

---

FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
Tantillus.org	Mini Printable Lathe	How NOT to install a Pololu driver

Quote
Sublime
The power supply looks fine. I run my Tantillus off of 15V to allow a little faster step rates as well as faster heating times but other than that yours should work fine.

The motors are not correct. Although they are the correct current (1.7A) they are not the correct resistance or voltage. We want about 1.65ohms of resistance and you have 30ohms. We want the lowest voltage motors you can get (usually around 2.8V) and you have 12V motors. Both of these means unless you have a high voltage power supply 24-30v you will not be able to reach the rated amperage unless you step extremely slowly and even then the drivers will most likely not like it.

ok,
can you suggest me right motors to use?
please send me technical details about?

Quote
Sublime
Also the microstepping is set vis the jumpers under the drivers.

I have jumpers for all drivers!

Quote
mdcompositi

Quote
Sublime
The power supply looks fine. I run my Tantillus off of 15V to allow a little faster step rates as well as faster heating times but other than that yours should work fine.

The motors are not correct. Although they are the correct current (1.7A) they are not the correct resistance or voltage. We want about 1.65ohms of resistance and you have 30ohms. We want the lowest voltage motors you can get (usually around 2.8V) and you have 12V motors. Both of these means unless you have a high voltage power supply 24-30v you will not be able to reach the rated amperage unless you step extremely slowly and even then the drivers will most likely not like it.

ok,
can you suggest me right motors to use?
please send me technical details about?

The motors I have are 42byghw609

---

FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
Tantillus.org	Mini Printable Lathe	How NOT to install a Pololu driver

Finally I solved all problems and now my Tantillus works!!


I'm trying to make a first printing but I have a problem I can not solve!
in practice when I start a print job, the z-axis instead of going down as the machine completes a layer, remains firm on the same
I realized that I need to do a setting of the z axis in the software that runs it but I can not find the right option!
But I have installed Repetier host because I was more practical!
Can you suggest me a solution?

other question!
can I buy this power supply?
[www.ebay.it]

Quote
mdcompositi
Finally I solved all problems and now my Tantillus works!!


I'm trying to make a first printing but I have a problem I can not solve!
in practice when I start a print job, the z-axis instead of going down as the machine completes a layer, remains firm on the same
I realized that I need to do a setting of the z axis in the software that runs it but I can not find the right option!
But I have installed Repetier host because I was more practical!
Can you suggest me a solution?

other question!
can I buy this power supply?
[www.ebay.it]

Yes that is the same kind of power supply I run.

For the Z axis I am not sure. Can you move it using a host program or the LCD? Are you using a homing switch? If it does not have the home switch you need to change the pins.h file so it knows you are not using one (change the pin that corresponds to z-min for your board to -1). If you do have a home switch and it does not move via the host or LCD then you may need to check your max Z speed is set to the speed your machine is capable of moving.

---

FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
Tantillus.org	Mini Printable Lathe	How NOT to install a Pololu driver

I have endstop on Z and when I use manual controls all works fine!!
homing works ok and also moving on Z positive (the bed move downward)

I can't think of any reason why it would work in the host and not during a print. Have you tried it more than once? I know my branch of Marlin has a bug where every once and a while the Z axis stops responding between prints and the machine needs to be rebooted.

Also be sure to have the max Z speed set in the firmware otherwise the slicing software will try and move it too fast and it will not move.

---

FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
Tantillus.org	Mini Printable Lathe	How NOT to install a Pololu driver

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {122.5,122.5,2514.628,450}//extruder default steps for herringbone 3.3:1 (450), normal 2.7:1 (320)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {150, 150, 15, 40} // (mm/sec) E= 40 max for herringbone gears 45 max for normal gears
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {8000,8000,300,10000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.

#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 10000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for r retracts



these are accelerations in marlin!

I tried several times but always does so while printing!

Quote
mdcompositi
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {150, 150, 15, 40}

The 15 is the max speed of the Z axis. For machines other than Tantillus 15 is really fast and could be too fast for your machine because of your voltage or motors or friction etc and you may need as slow as 5

Beyond that are you using Kisslicer with the Tantillus profiles?

---

FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
Tantillus.org	Mini Printable Lathe	How NOT to install a Pololu driver

I changed the speed setting 5 but the same does not change anything!
I use slic3r

Quote
mdcompositi
I changed the speed setting 5 but the same does not change anything!
I use slic3r

I would put my money on the problem being slic3r. It is a very buggy piece of software and should only be used for experimentation. I recommend moving to a reliable slicer like Kisslicer or Cura.

---

FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
Tantillus.org	Mini Printable Lathe	How NOT to install a Pololu driver

I finally solved this problem!
in fact the problem was just that I was generating a gcode slic3r wrong!
I used Cura, and shares this in repetier!
along with this but I had another problem related to the extrusion
extruder works great with a good hobbed bolt created with dremel
infact the filament inside the tube flows perfectly
when I take a piece of the filament and with your hands push him inside the jhead just a little pressure and it shows slide under the wire
instead it is screwed when I connect the hose to the Bowden coldend, the wire can not melt and flow despite the extruder push it with a nice strength
even the hobbed bolt consumes it without tracing it back
I also tried to raise the temperature a bit to 210 degrees but it does not change!
I hope to resolve this (hopefully small) problem and start a first printing
what do you suggest me?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/10/2014 01:22PM by mdcompositi.

It could be the wrong thermistor selected in the config file of Marlin. The default is set to 1 which was the default for a J-head prior to this year, new J-head;s uses number 5 I believe. Other hotends use can use different thermistors. If the wrong thermistor is selected it will not be reading the correct temperature. It could also be you are trying to manually extrude too fast using the host program, will it extrude while printing? It could also be a bad hotend, is it a real J-head from hotends.com?

---

FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
Tantillus.org	Mini Printable Lathe	How NOT to install a Pololu driver

My j head is this
[www.ebay.it]
I can't buy it from hotend.com because it would take too long to arrive in Italy
I'll check if I use right termistor number, you suggest 5?
in any case, as I said, I have also tried to raise the temperature to 210 degrees and pushing with your hands, work
do you think this j head okay?

From the pictures I would say it has a good chance of being correct. But you would have to pull it apart to see if it is made and assembled correctly. It should have a PTFE liner. The melt chamber should be the same inside diameter as the ptfe liner (some companies sell 3mm hotends with a ptfe liner for 1.75mm filament and it does not work correctly).

Have you used the Tantillus calculator to get the correct settings for the slicer?

The thermistor I would ask the seller which thermistor table to use in Marlin.

I would also recommend starting with Kisslicer and the config files I provide to eliminate the possibility of it being a slicer setting issue.

---

FFF Settings Calculator	Gcode post processors	Geometric Object Deposition Tool Blog
Tantillus.org	Mini Printable Lathe	How NOT to install a Pololu driver

if I push with your hands inside the wire jhead this melts very easily and without too much pressure!
I believe that this is evidence that jhead works well
the same way if I run the extruder holding tube disconnected from the cold hend, the wire runs very smoothly
when I connect to coldend like explained on the site, filament don't run and you can ear extruder that runs equally consuming even the filament
of course when I loaded the filament, I pushed completely inside the jhead!
It's very strange!
it seems that the solution lies in the middle of these two things
can the problem due to filament quality??

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 07/11/2014 06:04AM by mdcompositi.