first connecting to mac

Are you running a 3mm bowden tube with 1.75mm filament? If yes then that may be the issue. If not read below.

I do not have much experience with 1.75mm filament so this is just a guess. Maybe the filament is buckling between the bowden tube and the top of the hotend because there is a gap between them. Can you thread the bowden tube further through the nut that holds it to the carriage so it go all the way to the top of the hotend and eliminates the possibility of a gap?

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Hi sublime!
finally I solved last problems and start to first printings!
machine is very very fast!!
In next days I'll send some picture !!
needs other calibrations but I'm on the right way!!
thank you for the moment....
we stay tuned!!!


p.s
I want to take a power supply dedicated and lcd display

another question!
...but need stepper drivers and ramps a fan?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/12/2014 10:15AM by mdcompositi.

Quote
mdcompositi
Hi sublime!
finally I solved last problems and start to first printings!
machine is very very fast!!
In next days I'll send some picture !!
needs other calibrations but I'm on the right way!!
thank you for the moment....
we stay tuned!!!


p.s
I want to take a power supply dedicated and lcd display

another question!
...but need stepper drivers and ramps a fan?

I'm glad you figured it out. Can you let us know what the problem was. I am sure it will help someone else.

I am not sure exactly what you are asking in the new question.

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I used 5 in marlin configuration for termistor, I think problem was due for temperature!
it's difficult also calibrate spring pressure on extruder!!
now printer work, not perfectly, but I can start to adjust......
I ask if need fan cooler on electronics!!
I have it on my prusa because otherwise the motors lose steps when drivers become hot


p.s.
I must say, however, that is not always the extruder works well!
I ordered new pla, maybe what I have is old, maybe it will get better
I'll let you know

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/12/2014 01:55PM by mdcompositi.

Some people use a fan on there electronics but I do not. If you have the motors tuned based on my instructions (minimum current capable of moving the axis without a lot of noise) the drivers should not get hot enough to need a fan. If you have to turn the current up to overcome friction of hotend issues then yes you may need to cool the drivers but you also may need to cool the motors.

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I am using a tube of 4 mm inner diameter as the outer diameter 6mm (in BOM is 6x3!)
and filament 1.75
obviously I did go over the wire nut and I slipped in jhead and then I screwed the whole thing
sometimes okay but others shall not be
actually the wire 3 mm is better because being more rigid flows better
you know I would have taken a jhead 3 mm but I did not think there were any problems
perhaps in systems Bowden wire 3mm is preferable!
do you think at this point I should change the tube?
perhaps with a different internal diameter is better?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/13/2014 03:52AM by mdcompositi.

I personally think 3mm is better for Bowden systems, but a lot of people say that 1.75mm is better. In the end it is really up to you which you use.

I would either switch it to a 2mm ID tube (or put one inside your current tube) or I would get a 3mm hotend and filament.

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In fact, I ordered a jhead with 3mm filament and will replace the one with 1.75
also because in this way I will have two printers with the same filaments!
and in any case I think my problem is definitely related to this aspect because filament is even folded inside the tube
using a 3 mm wire can I keep the 4x6 tube?

Yes the 4x6 tube will work fine. It will allow you to run over sized filament (3.05+). The only issue with the 4mm ID tubing is the retraction can be a little harder to get perfect. It is nothing I would worry about unless it causes you a real issue. I have a few machines with 4mm ID tubing so I can use cheap unreliable filament.

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perfect!
for the moment I'm waiting for jhead 3 mm then I'll update the situation!
I'll send also some photos about my tantillus with gt2 pulleys!
for the moment I like to connect power supply using q-type connector!
can you send me a link to ebay about this connector so I can buy the right item?
There are different types!!

The Q type connector is very hard to find, I had to buy them in bulk. A Q type connector has a 6mm barrel and 3mm pin to fit the toshiba power supply connector. If you can't find one online and do not want to replace the original Q type with a different type send me a PM and I may be able to supply one.

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is not a problem for me to use another type of connector, the important thing is that everything works!
I need a power supply for this machine because I'm using the ATX of my Prusa
But what I want to do is use this power supply that I have already purchased
(http://www.ebay.it/itm/251224856855?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)


can you show me a link to a product on ebay so I can use it as an example to buy one here in Italy?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/15/2014 06:06AM by mdcompositi.

I did a search and could not find any in the time I had. Here is a wikipedia entry showing that 6.3mm O.D. by 3.1mm I.D connectors are called type Q [en.wikipedia.org]

When I made that BOM they were easier to get, it may be that they are no longer used.

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ok, then what do you suggest I do to solve this issue?

You could replace the power supply's connector and use a standard size DC power jack (5.5mm OD x 2.1mm ID) like this set [www.ebay.com] (this set is locking but it does not need to be) DO NOT USE THE ONE I LINKED TO it is only rated at 1A @ 16V (16 watts) and you want at least 5A @ at least 15V (75 watts)

Or you can cut the power supplies end off and wire it the plug on the RAMPS board and use it to disconnect the power.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/15/2014 02:38PM by Sublime.

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ok, I understand!
can you confirm that I can proceed to buy these female dc with 24V max voltage?

[www.ebay.it]

and my power supply is this

[www.ebay.it]

thank you in advance!!

p.s.
tomorrow should get the 3mm jhead !!!

That posting does not give enough specs to determine if it can handle the power. You can check with the seller what the rated amperage is on them. You need it to be able to handle the 90watts your power supply can supply. You can use ohm's law to figure out the wattage as long as you have the voltage and amperage ratings of the connector. [www.ohmslawcalculator.com]

Those ones are rated at 12-36v but no other rating. Ohms law says for 90 watts it needs to be rated at 2.5A @ 36V or 7.5A @ 12V which are both the same rating of 90watts.

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Hi, finally I've changed jhead with 3mm filament and fitted the LM8SUU!

Now I have to calibrate print area because I can't print on his center!!(as you know in this area, when it seems to have solved a problem then move on to the next suddenly take a step back!)
but this problem I hope to solve in these hours (repetier settings are right!)
I can't solve problem about power supply, for the moment I'll use ATX
I've sent to Sublime a PM

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/24/2014 03:45AM by mdcompositi.

For it not being centered. If you are using Repitier firmware it may be the cause and I will not be able to help. For now lets assume it is not the issue.

In Kisslicer make sure the bed center is set as 50 50

When you first plug in the machine make sure the carriage is in the back right corner (also that the motors move away from the back right corner when you move them in the positive direction). After plugging in the machine with the carriage in the back right corner do not move it with your hands.

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you use kisslicer only for slicing!

there are no manual controls and I can not figure out how to drive the printer!

I only print from SD card using the LCD. When I printed from USB I printed from Pronterface. If you follow the instructions on Tantillus.org it has you install Pronterface and use it to manually move the axis.

For the Slicing I use Kisslicer 99.8% of the time and the rest I use Cura (just for Spiral perimeters).

No matter what software you use the center should be set to 50 50 since it is half of 100 100.

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finally I got the jhead 3mm and now the extruder works well!
I also had problems moving on x and y and I preferred to replace the 4 lm8uu printed with metallic ones
as you suggested now I use pronterface and kisslicer
I started doing the first test printing with shameful results
in practice it happens that every layer is printed in different positions, without any criterion (attach a photo of the cube 20x20x10)
is really very strange, I just can not make it work well this printer
not to mention the fact that even though I can not print centrally placed in its center pronterface 50x50
I attach some photos of the pulleys gt2 that I mounted and bed leveling system

You might have discussed this already, I am not sure. The x and y steps per mm are going to be way off with the metal pulleys so you need to calibrate those numbers. You will need a lot less steps per mm. If you dial the x position through the knob does it match what the LCD?

I will let Sublime talk about the "metal ones"

Cheers
Keith

I do not think that this is also why, when I had the jhead 1.75 mm, had already made ​​a printout of the 20x20x10 cube and it was all ok!
however, await sublime response , I hope to resolve as soon as possible because they are now two months that I'm on this printer and I can not make it go!


p.s.
I think that problem is in kisslicer settings!!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/30/2014 12:04PM by mdcompositi.

The "printed" lm8uu bearings work well for rotating shafts. The "metal" lm8uu are not made for rotation so they will stop your printer running smooth.

If you hand turn the x or y motors, the effort required should be very smooth and easy. If this is not true then some work needs to be done until it is.

Good luck

Cheers
Keith

maybe you're right in part, lm8uu are printed as the igus made ​​specifically for rotating shaft!
I replaced them with metal ones because they got stuck when move!
maybe part of the problem may also be what you say (waiting for a response to Sublime)
but the problem is another and at this point my question is:

pronterface and kisslicer are two separate things in the sense that, whereas the manual controls work well, just a well-gcode generated and the pinter should be a good start!
so if anyone of you who has a tantillus pass a gcode generated certainly well (ie with the parameters set in the right way), my printer should work!

My plastic lm8uu slide as smooth as silk. They do work really well. You do need to push the shaft into them a few times until they become smooth end easy to slide. If they are metal ones not designed for roatation things will never work right.

Here are my KissSlicer settings,

www.edns.co.nz/tantillus/kissslicer_settings/

Beware I have a lot of prefix code in the Ptr G-Code section and some postfix too. Some specific to my machine. Most of it is nicely documented so you can understand why I did it. The settings are all optimised for my 0.4mm jhead and local plastic and heated bed.

You should use Sublimes settings found here "Configuration files' here to get started, then read through some of my gcode for customisation. e.g. PID temperature control and a start up routine.
www.tantillus.org/Downloads.html

Cheers
Keith

The LM8uu's on the rotating shafts would cause some issues and could cause bad binding. You could try running the breakin.g file breakin.g and see if it makes them move a little better. But be aware that the balls of the linear bearing are made to roll from end to end, not to rotate and will leave scratches and marks in your smooth rod as well as wear out and get loose quickly. With the printed bushings you do as Robonz said and get them to move smooth and if they still bind you can add grease and run the breakin.g code until it runs smoothly.

The other thing that could be an issue are the motors. If you are still running the 12v motors you will not be able to put much current through them do to there resistance being as high as it is. Without being able to run them at a high current you may not have enough torque. The next thing I would check are all the grub screws to see if they are tight since they can cause layer shifts if the grub screws are loose on the gears and in your case on the pulleys for the belts.

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FYI I am printing ABS and PLA on 12 volts perfectly. The only catch is you have to turn down the extruder acceleration, my machine is all ready for 19 volts but I havent had a reason to switch it over and re-tune the PID.

The motor controllers are constant current so stall torque should be about the same at 12 volts and15 volts. It is the top speed and acceleration that suffer with lower voltage (or torque at speed) Our X,Y dont get into that area where they suffer but the extruder does.

Obviously to run on 12 volts the machine needs to run very smoothly with low friction. I was surprised I can get away with 12 volts. I also changed my extruder motor to a 0.9 degree motor, as it runs so slow. The 1.8 degree did work ok though.

Cheers
Keith

@Robonz
It was not that he was using a 12volt power supply. My comment was about his motors being rated at 12v @ 1.7A and having 30ohm coils which means the time it takes to reach the full 1.7A may be longer than the step takes. This would result in less current going to the motor which equals less torque. Most RepRaps run motors rated at 2.8v @ 1.65A motors which have 1.65ohm coils and can reach full current very quickly.

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