Ord Bot Build and Test
Posted by rtj31527
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Ord Bot Build and Test May 07, 2014 10:37PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 2 |
This is an update to my April entry.
I have completed the build and performed the first print of the 20mm square cube. The cube is truly perpendicular with dimensions of 20.31x19.85x20.53. It was created using 1.75mm ABS using a 0.35mm extruder nozzle
I started with information from NWRepRap who directed me to use Arduino 022, Pronterface, Sprinter, Slic3r and follow their YouTube video series. I used the SainSmart RAMPS 1.4 kit with heated bed, micro switches and full graphic LCD controller
The Ord Bot DIY kit was from Automation Technologies. I took everything to the point that I could control all 3 axis under Pronterface, but had no output to the LCD graphic controller
I moved to Arduino 023 switched from Sprinter to Marlin, and stayed with Pronterface and Slic3r. I selected the J Head Mk VB hot end with the EZstruder cold end. After a lot of work on understanding Marlin configuration.h file I brought everything up.
Using a 12V 30A LED power supply I could easily bring up the extruder temperature in the 230 -> 250 range, but had trouble getting to 90 for the heated bed. I was using Black ABS from SainSmart which accurately measured 1.76mm.
I mounted a 40mm fan for extruder cooling and a 60mm fan for Arduino/Ramps1.4 Board. Because I did not use any heat sinks for the stepper drivers the fans were powered on continuously.
I had to "tweak" the current pot on the extruder driver to get correct power output sothat the stepper did not loose steps while drvivng the filament through the extruder - set to 240 print temperature.
The relationships between the setting in the Marlin configuration.h file, Pronterface and Slic3r take some thinking through to ensure that temperature, bed and print areas are consistent across all applications.
Because the heat bed really struggles to maintain 90, I set it to 80 Start and 75 Run for printing which is apparently well below 110 recommended.
The extruder watts are 7 -> 8, and the heated bed 110 -> 120. I used the 30W cartridge heater wrapped with a little Aluminum foil for a snug dry fit in the hot end
However using AquaNet hair spray on the boro-silicate glass I achieved good print adhesion at this low heated bed temperature. The printed cube removed easily with a light tap at a bed temperature of 50 in the cool down.
Mechanically I had to add spacers to the XY table to get good toothed belt / micro switch clearances. My Z axis homing position an adjustable screw which let me accurately set the nozzle ~ bed clearance at 0.1mm
Levelling the bed using 4 corner spring loaded screw downs I felt was critical and kept "at it" until all print corners of the bed were at 0,1mm clear of the hot end nozzle.
The EZstruder cold end was disassembled and washers added to ensure the filament clamp wheel was square to the toothed drive wheel. Setting the feed rate I used 100mm extrudes to tune the required step/mm accurately - 101 in my case
The full graphic LCD display did come up when the right selection of #defines and the addition of the U8glib to the Arduino library folder. I find it "comforting" but am not sure when or if I will get to the SD card control capability
Net bottom line: It took about 20 hours of build time and 30 hours of internet search time to get this far over a 3 - 4 week period.
I made the decision to build from scratch rather than buy a commercial unit because I wanted to try and understand the technology
Total Parts Cost was about $750 which I think is good for the printer quality that has been achieved.
Having been out of engineering school for over 50 years I feel a sense of achievement in the work performed
The unit has a use to allow me to make prototype parts without resort to local machine shops which also happen to be essentially non existent in coastal Georgia where I live.
Rob Jagger
Jekyll Island, Georgia
I have completed the build and performed the first print of the 20mm square cube. The cube is truly perpendicular with dimensions of 20.31x19.85x20.53. It was created using 1.75mm ABS using a 0.35mm extruder nozzle
I started with information from NWRepRap who directed me to use Arduino 022, Pronterface, Sprinter, Slic3r and follow their YouTube video series. I used the SainSmart RAMPS 1.4 kit with heated bed, micro switches and full graphic LCD controller
The Ord Bot DIY kit was from Automation Technologies. I took everything to the point that I could control all 3 axis under Pronterface, but had no output to the LCD graphic controller
I moved to Arduino 023 switched from Sprinter to Marlin, and stayed with Pronterface and Slic3r. I selected the J Head Mk VB hot end with the EZstruder cold end. After a lot of work on understanding Marlin configuration.h file I brought everything up.
Using a 12V 30A LED power supply I could easily bring up the extruder temperature in the 230 -> 250 range, but had trouble getting to 90 for the heated bed. I was using Black ABS from SainSmart which accurately measured 1.76mm.
I mounted a 40mm fan for extruder cooling and a 60mm fan for Arduino/Ramps1.4 Board. Because I did not use any heat sinks for the stepper drivers the fans were powered on continuously.
I had to "tweak" the current pot on the extruder driver to get correct power output sothat the stepper did not loose steps while drvivng the filament through the extruder - set to 240 print temperature.
The relationships between the setting in the Marlin configuration.h file, Pronterface and Slic3r take some thinking through to ensure that temperature, bed and print areas are consistent across all applications.
Because the heat bed really struggles to maintain 90, I set it to 80 Start and 75 Run for printing which is apparently well below 110 recommended.
The extruder watts are 7 -> 8, and the heated bed 110 -> 120. I used the 30W cartridge heater wrapped with a little Aluminum foil for a snug dry fit in the hot end
However using AquaNet hair spray on the boro-silicate glass I achieved good print adhesion at this low heated bed temperature. The printed cube removed easily with a light tap at a bed temperature of 50 in the cool down.
Mechanically I had to add spacers to the XY table to get good toothed belt / micro switch clearances. My Z axis homing position an adjustable screw which let me accurately set the nozzle ~ bed clearance at 0.1mm
Levelling the bed using 4 corner spring loaded screw downs I felt was critical and kept "at it" until all print corners of the bed were at 0,1mm clear of the hot end nozzle.
The EZstruder cold end was disassembled and washers added to ensure the filament clamp wheel was square to the toothed drive wheel. Setting the feed rate I used 100mm extrudes to tune the required step/mm accurately - 101 in my case
The full graphic LCD display did come up when the right selection of #defines and the addition of the U8glib to the Arduino library folder. I find it "comforting" but am not sure when or if I will get to the SD card control capability
Net bottom line: It took about 20 hours of build time and 30 hours of internet search time to get this far over a 3 - 4 week period.
I made the decision to build from scratch rather than buy a commercial unit because I wanted to try and understand the technology
Total Parts Cost was about $750 which I think is good for the printer quality that has been achieved.
Having been out of engineering school for over 50 years I feel a sense of achievement in the work performed
The unit has a use to allow me to make prototype parts without resort to local machine shops which also happen to be essentially non existent in coastal Georgia where I live.
Rob Jagger
Jekyll Island, Georgia
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Re: Ord Bot Build and Test July 26, 2015 08:16PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 10 |
I have just completed the assembly of a MendelMax 1.5. I have a Taurino Classic board (a fully compatible Arduino Mega 2560 clone), with a RAMPS 1.4 shield & a LCD shield mounted on the RAMPS. My power supply is 24v as is my kapton bed heater & my hotend.
I have the Arduino IDE & Marlin downloaded. I've got the drivers installed for the Taurino. I am pretty intimidated by the configuration.h file! I want to start out by just hooking up my X,Y & Z steppers and test them. Do you know what changes to the configuration.h file I need to make before uploading it to my board?
I program & run 3 & 5 axis CNC machines for a living, but building this from scratch, has been as challenging as my day job.
Zeke Radford
Meldrim, GA
I have the Arduino IDE & Marlin downloaded. I've got the drivers installed for the Taurino. I am pretty intimidated by the configuration.h file! I want to start out by just hooking up my X,Y & Z steppers and test them. Do you know what changes to the configuration.h file I need to make before uploading it to my board?
I program & run 3 & 5 axis CNC machines for a living, but building this from scratch, has been as challenging as my day job.
Zeke Radford
Meldrim, GA
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I just finished building my dual extruder max micron aluminum frame March 03, 2016 05:57PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 1 |
I just finished building my dual extruder max micron aluminum frame and loaded the Cura software I can't get it to link to the printer....the documentation was crap and I have nowhere to turn! Can someone please help. I'm a disabled Vet and a double amputee I bought this for a hobby to help keep me busy but this is crazy I need help getting this working. I'm really good with computers but this has me at my last nerve!
Please help! Feel free to call or email!
Gocrow1@gmail.com 678-536-6678.
Dave Sherman
Braselton Ga.
Please help! Feel free to call or email!
Gocrow1@gmail.com 678-536-6678.
Dave Sherman
Braselton Ga.
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