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is dibond suitable as printing surface?

Posted by Gerard Choinka 
is dibond suitable as printing surface?
May 13, 2013 06:51PM
i am looking for a substitute of the glass bed, is dibond (3mm) stiff, straight enough for a printing surface? and how it does behave if it heated?

tanks
Re: is dibond suitable as printing surface?
May 13, 2013 07:12PM
Re: is dibond suitable as printing surface?
May 14, 2013 06:01AM
Hi Gerard

May I ask for what reason? I've been using a glass bed and found it to be excellent both in terms of first-layer adhesion, and its lack of flexion.

Marcos
Re: is dibond suitable as printing surface?
May 14, 2013 08:10AM
Dibond is usually pretty flat, but not reliably as flat as glass. It might also dome a little when heated if one surface is hotter than the other. The PE core is a poor conductor compared to glass.

Ordinary Dibond with the PE core will not handle the temperatures needed for ABS but it is OK for PLA. Dibond FR handles high temperatures but it is a lot heavier.

I have never tried printing direct on the surface. It has a plastic coating so it might work.


[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]
Re: is dibond suitable as printing surface?
May 14, 2013 09:42AM
I also woking with glass but it is hard to machine, hard to drill holes, so the glass surface is smaller as the mk2a bed, the next point howto attach the glass to the bed, the binder clips working but your are risking a hot end collision or you making your pint zone smaller

what i was hoping to achieve with a dibond print surface:
pockets in the dibond plate for the screw heads of the mk2a bed,
i would like attatch the printing surface to the heating bed with magnets,
embedded the termistor in the dibond plate
lighter as glass

as coating i would use kapton tape

i tried to print some small coathanger, this is where the need for a better solution was born
Re: is dibond suitable as printing surface?
May 14, 2013 10:26AM
The outside edge of the Mk2 bed does not get hot as there are no heating elements outside the 200x200 area.

The clips do lose some area though. I have attached the glass with M3 penny washers sitting on spacers slightly less than 2mm thick with the glass the full size of the bed but with the corners chamfered enough to clear the screw. That gives a bit more area but I found small chamfers hard to make with a glass cutter.

You can drill glass with the right drill bits and possibly some cooling.

You can also tape the glass on with kapton. It works better than one would imagine as long as all four edges are done.


[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]
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