Is it well known that diluting PVA-glue with water and painting it on glass makes for a kick-ass printing surface?

Instruction: take a bit of PVA-glue (regular Casco "wood-glue") in a glass, add a bit of water (3x PVA amount). Whip around with a paint brush and then paint the glass. Will be tricky to get the watery glue float out, perhaps due to surface tension, I will try to add some detergent next time.. Let it dry. Done, print as normal.

Take it easy when detaching the prints from the glass - I broke my glass today because it sticks so good.

Got the tip from a youtube video from a guy with a non-heated bed Ultimaker, but it works great on my mendel90 with heated bed as well

I personally use 1:10 diluted PVA:Water. I dab it on with a bit of kitchen roll, and keep dabbing while the bed heats to ~60 to give an even coat. Works fantastically, I can get about 20-30 prints out of each treatment.

Parts pop off the bed once you let it fall below 40, or you can tap the side of them with a metal ruler flat against the bed.

Hi,

Is this priting ABS or PLA ?

Cheers

Rob

I use dilute PVA when printing PLA and ABS juice when printing ABS.

Good to see there are more using this technique

So far I only print PLA, but there is a roll of ABS waiting for me at home.

Here's the video that tipped me off to this:
[youtu.be]
He says he's able to print PLA, ABS and also nylon on it.

pocketmoon Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Hi,
>
> Is this priting ABS or PLA ?
>
> Cheers
>
> Rob

I've found that it works quite well for ABS as well.

Yep, i've been using good old Elmore's glue (PVA) for the last 6 months for printing PLA. I heat the bed to 65c. Take a solo cup and add some glue and water. The ratio changes depending on the shape i'm printing and how "sticky" I want to surface to be. Mix it up with a cheap painting brush (flat headed painting brush for beginner art students). Just brush a thin layer over the area and wait for it to dry. Quick and easy. The parts never pop off midway though now.

At the end, just don't try to remove the part from the bed until it's below 30c...

My procedure is basically identical to lions3's. It has worked really well for me.

To save time cleaning the PVA off the glass after each print, I reapply the dilute glue right over the existing stuff. Just remove any plastic stuck to the glass first. I do this three or four time before cleaning the glass completely, but it seems like one could go longer.

Could anyone share the names of the glues they are using? I'm in the uk. I've tried my kids craft pva but it dries hard and is not sticky.

How should it feel when it has dried?

Thanks

Kids' PVA from Hobbycraft. Red label bottle I think. Dilute 1:10 with water and then smear a VERY light amount on the glass so it dries to a haze. If it flakes off then it's too thick. It will dry hard, especially as the bed heats up, but the PLA will stick to it when you print the first layer.

Im printing my first ABS piece now using PVA (elmers glue) so far its sticking to the bed fine. PVA on glass, heated bed at 75, and extruding 220 degrees. will see how it goes, its a tall print.

ABS at 220C and a heated bed at 75C? Please follow this up with a report on how things turned up. For me - I use Kapton tape on glass, a nozzle temperature of 245C and a heated bed of 130C which is just about as hot as I can maintain it.

Alan

I have been using balsamic vinegar on glass recently which I capriciously tried and found to work very well. (PLA)

@Ralph.Hilton: The only caveat I have found, in using glass cleaned with vinegar, is that the printed part must be left until it has reached room temperature. Attempts to remove it before then require more effort and risk chipping or breaking the glass.

Regards,
Neil Darlow

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I try to write with consideration for all nationalities. Please let me know if something is unclear.
Printing with Mendel90 from fedora 25 using Cura, FreeCAD, MeshLab, OpenSCAD, Skeinforge and Slic3r tools.

FYI, last week on IRC several people were discussing the use of UHU glue sticks for BOTH PLA and ABS plastic. I'll post an update later this week when I have a chance to confirm that it at least works with PLA.