New E3D-V6 hotend - with10% off.....

Yes the fan needs to be permanently on for a metal hot end. You should wire it to 12V and use the controlled fan output for cooling the part, which needs to be on after the first layer for PLA and not at all for ABS.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/01/2014 12:30PM by nophead.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

Quote
Traveltrousers
After following the instructions, namely mount the head, run PID auto-tune and then mount the fan I can't print at 250 degrees... it seems the mini fan being on permanently keeps lowing the temperature and resetting the M109 command... should the fan be on all the time? Also, shouldn't I run PID with filament in the nozzle, surely this will effect the result...

I'm running PID again now with the fan and ABS inside, will report back...

Those changes in PID values have almost zero significance. It might be the difference between the hotend temperature varying by 2 degrees or 1.9 .
Are you running the print cooling fan with ABS?

Well their significance was a little greater than zero, I ran the m303 after waiting for the print to start for about five minutes and it fluctuated from 240 to 255 but after commuting the new PID values the exact same print worked right away...
Seems strange that a metal hotend would need constant cooling and plastic jhead doesn't....

Not really, the thermal conductivity of stainless steel is about 100 times greater than PTFE and PEEK, so even though the insulator is much thinner it is also much shorter so a lot more heat flows down it and has to be got rid of.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

Sanjay from E3D here - didn't see this thread until now!

We've had the v6 on M90s for a few months now. All the mounting woes go away if you just pop a washer (I think it was M8 or M6) on top of the heatsink to make it sit a mm or so lower, which means the clamping washers are able to push it up into the extruder. You loose around 10mm of Z height, I can't remember exactly what our final Z-height plugged into the firmware was exactly.

We also had to ditch the wingnut as it interfered with the fan-duct, just flipping the bolt the other way up and using a standard nut sorts things.

I should mention the improvements to v6 for flexibles only really apply to the 1.75mm version where you can run the PTFE tubing from hob all the way to the heatbreak. This is really important for the very flimsy 1.75mm flexibles which will buckle if you even look at them funny. With 3mm there really isn't a problem printing flexibles as they are of a manageable stiffness with the increased CSA.

TravelTrousers - I see you've posted in our support forum, hopefully we can get to the bottom of whatever your issue is there.