Mendel90 E3D v6 Conversion

Im considering switching my hotness over to the E3D v6 so ill be able to print different materials. Has anybody done this conversion so far if so would they like to make a walk through on how to go about the conversion and links to the still parts that need to be printed?

thanks!

I'm as well highly interested in that conversion. The only real proper guide I've found so far is this one: [blog.think3dprint3d.com]
But whats holding me back right now is that it needs another x-idler. But this would mean swapping hotends would also mean swapping the x-idler and probably some re-calibration, and I really like to avoid that.

Look here: [forums.reprap.org] scroll down.
Nophead has created a branch in his repository for E3D.

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danielis
Look here: [forums.reprap.org] scroll down.
Nophead has created a branch in his repository for E3D.

what about a 1.75mm E3D v6

Here is mine: [www.thingiverse.com]

Using these with great results.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:884248
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:491316

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hsbontop
Using these with great results.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:884248
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:491316

Thank you very much!
You only changed the wades_block diameter right?

The wades block filament guide diameter and position has been changed from nophead's standard mendel90.
The block is based on my machine configuration ie not dibond but I don't know if my parameters has affected other parameters of the block. I can post the modified scad so you are free to produce your own STL or maybe nophead can give some input on compatibility. Anyway it depends on the machine you have.

The extruder doesn't vary between machine versions.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

i switched and use the original setup... no mod needed... let me know if ur interested..

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Nophead Mendel90 Remixed in aluminum
Marlin v2.0
Matterhacker Control (latest)
Ramps 1.4
Sainsmart LCD
MK2B heatbed
E3dV6 hotend .4mm tip
1.75mm filaments
dedicated 12v33a psu
dedicated 12v5a laptop psu mod

Hello,
I use the original setup too. (see the pictures)
I only had to replace the wing nut by an hex nut.
The E3D v6 center does not match with the fan duct , and I had to sand it a little.
I attach the electric diagram that I used.

I still cannot make my wades extruder to work with my E3D V6 lite 1.75mm, I already tried everything, even hsbontop's modified wades_block and gears but still missing steps when I manually extrude at 30mm/s or 40mm/s

If you are manually extruding 30mm/s is far too fast for the extruder. Even if you were printing at 100mm/s the extruder would only feed at about 5mm/s.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

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nophead
If you are manually extruding 30mm/s is far too fast for the extruder. Even if you were printing at 100mm/s the extruder would only feed at about 5mm/s.

So what should I use as manual extruder speed in repetier?

Hosts normally work in mm/m. I normally test 3mm filament at 60mm/m so for 1.75mm that would be about 180mm/m or 3mm/s.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

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nophead
Hosts normally work in mm/m. I normally test 3mm filament at 60mm/m so for 1.75mm that would be about 180mm/m or 3mm/s.

That's what I'm getting

I thought you said you were manually extruding? That looks like building an object from gcode, in which case the slicer sets the speed.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

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nophead
I thought you said you were manually extruding? That looks like building an object from gcode, in which case the slicer sets the speed.

I ended trying to print a 20mm box because what you said and that was the result, the one without infill printed just fine

it looks like the bed is not level... causing the nozzle to touch the bed and stop the flow at the end of the nozzle untill it gets to a greater gap between the bed and nozzle...i had that happen to me when i first installed the e3dv6... but i also had made changes to the bed causing a need for releveling... but none the less, if your printing at the correct speed, then id look at bed level...

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Nophead Mendel90 Remixed in aluminum
Marlin v2.0
Matterhacker Control (latest)
Ramps 1.4
Sainsmart LCD
MK2B heatbed
E3dV6 hotend .4mm tip
1.75mm filaments
dedicated 12v33a psu
dedicated 12v5a laptop psu mod

Quote
09zx-6r
it looks like the bed is not level... causing the nozzle to touch the bed and stop the flow at the end of the nozzle untill it gets to a greater gap between the bed and nozzle...i had that happen to me when i first installed the e3dv6... but i also had made changes to the bed causing a need for releveling... but none the less, if your printing at the correct speed, then id look at bed level...

thanks, it seems it's fine now, but I'm still getting some steps missing, how far do you press the idlers block to the wades?

EDIT: It's clogging again, I don't know what else to do

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/28/2015 10:38PM by juanej.

The spring tension should be enough so that it doesn't slip but not too much that it squashes the filament into an oval or it won't then fit into the hot end.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/29/2015 08:41AM by nophead.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

can u get it to flow when its off the bed ? as in having the z axis @ home position, pre heat the nozzle and extrude? if so does it flow properly? have you done a calibration of filament flow? have you measured the filament for roundness at many different spots? some filament isnt round at all, some are perfect, some have a range of thickness thru out the roll...

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Nophead Mendel90 Remixed in aluminum
Marlin v2.0
Matterhacker Control (latest)
Ramps 1.4
Sainsmart LCD
MK2B heatbed
E3dV6 hotend .4mm tip
1.75mm filaments
dedicated 12v33a psu
dedicated 12v5a laptop psu mod