Burnt out block!?

So I thought I'd do a bit of printing with my new Colorfabb PLA but before I started I thought I better check the printer over and noticed what you see in the photos.

As you can see one of the connectors has burnout, not sure which one. Does this mean a new board? Where can I buy one and how much do they cost?

Thanks

That is the PSU ground connection. It carries the most current so it has to be a very good connection or it will get hot.

Usually it is simply a matter of changing the connector, rather than the whole board.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

Ok I'll have a look for a new connector. Would the burnt out block cause the motors to move out of alignment ? When I've been starting a print or a print finishes the motors don't seem to run in tandem.

It normally causes USB disconnects and / or random resets when the bed is turned on. Not sure what effect it would have on the motors.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

I don't seem to have any of those problems, what else could cause the issue?

Do you mean the Z motors? Low voltage could make them skip steps, especially as they are in series, so get half the voltage of the others. The bed would not heat properly as well. Perhaps it could be a few volts low and still get hot enough for PLA but it would be slower.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

All sorted now. The burnt out block was causing the motors to run out. The block was easy to change as well

This afternoon I experienced the same issue but it happened mid-print.
My Led light went out and printing stopped. To my big surprise the PSU kept going.
When I measured the Voltage I only got 2.5V instead of 12V.
I restarted but a few minutes after I put the heaters on the printer went down again.

When I looked closer I saw that the plastic on the ground connector had melted.
The printer has been in operation since 1.5 years and I haven't moved it a single time.
Must've been that my connection was good but not good enough...

I will start with changing the connector and see if that fixes it.
Glad I found the solution so quickly on this fantastic forum!

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Creality CR10/X Dual color/material
Creality CR10S
Ender3 Pro
Photon
Mendel90 (decommissioned)
Mamorubot Jupiter CoreXY

Hi,

I do not know what the power requirement of the E3D Volcano is but you should check that the controller tracking and heater wire are adequate for the purpose.

Regards,
Neil Darlow

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I try to write with consideration for all nationalities. Please let me know if something is unclear.
Printing with Mendel90 from fedora 25 using Cura, FreeCAD, MeshLab, OpenSCAD, Skeinforge and Slic3r tools.

For future reference I had the same issue but replacing the block didn't work... I guess the trace was also burnt out, so I soldered the negative wire bundle directly to the board using the bottom left mounting hole... has worked perfectly for over a year now.

Neil, I am not sure what a tracking controller is but I do know that the Volcano is a normal hotend with a longer melting zone,
not requiring special electronics. When printing you slightly increase the temp compared with a E3d or other type hotend because
the plastic is moving faster compared with the normal hotends with a shorter meltzone.

Traveltrousers, your solution might become handy in the future but for now, replacing the connector block worked for me.
Aren't you affraid you're going to fry your board? What about printing unattended?

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Creality CR10/X Dual color/material
Creality CR10S
Ender3 Pro
Photon
Mendel90 (decommissioned)
Mamorubot Jupiter CoreXY

When it happened I was scared the board was fried.. especially when replacing the block didn't work.... but it's fine.

It has a thousand hours of unattended prints through it...