Original jhead creator is going out of business. Chinese clones impossible to compete with
Posted by TTN
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Re: Original jhead creator is going out of business. Chinese clones impossible to compete with October 14, 2015 01:46PM |
The second e-bay link is a clone or counterfeit.
Now, about that first e-bay link to the J-Head Mk V-BS.
Please read the description of the first e-bay listing. That was done on purpose and by me. The description is clear that that hot-end is garbage. If somebody sorted by the lowest price, the idea was that they run across it. I only "sold" one and had to talk the buyer into a refund as I was not shipping that to anybody. I didn't think that e-bay listing was still out there.
Here is the description:
While I have high quality J-Heads available elsewhere on e-bay and in my web shop (hotends.com), I have decided to offer a J-Head hot-end for a lower price than even the counterfeits from the Far East. There is one caveat, however. You get what you pay for.
Many people have reported problems with the J-Head hot-end and, after their purchase, have found out that it is a counterfeit. The counterfeit hot-ends are usually made in China and the blueprints are never followed. This has been the result of many hot-end failures worldwide.
Please see the pictures that show the differences between genuine J-Head hot-ends and the counterfeits. The bottom two hot-ends are counterfeits. As there are a lot of variations, of counterfeits, I have not bought every variety. However, it is usually the easiest to tell counterfeits as they have 4 rows of vents and not 5. In addition, I have seen at least 3 different ways the vents have been cut. Without proper cooling vents and the correct internal configuration, the hot-end will fail.
Properly made J-Heads are great at printing both PLA and ABS. Some people have even printed nylon with them. It is critical, however, to not try to exceed 248 degrees (c) as the PEEK can soften above these temperatures. There is plenty of information at Reprap Wiki and J-Head Blog, as well.
When I sell a properly made J-Head hot-end (i.e. Mk V-BV and soon a Mk 8), I consider it my job to ensure that it works properly and guarantee that it is free of manufacturing defects.
Please note that the J-Head hot-end for sale, in this ad, is made from parts straight from my scrap bin and is guaranteed not to work. There may be major variations of the J-Head Mk V-BS due to the scrap parts having varying imperfections. As with some of the counterfeits, the PTFE liner is missing.
Now, about that first e-bay link to the J-Head Mk V-BS.
Please read the description of the first e-bay listing. That was done on purpose and by me. The description is clear that that hot-end is garbage. If somebody sorted by the lowest price, the idea was that they run across it. I only "sold" one and had to talk the buyer into a refund as I was not shipping that to anybody. I didn't think that e-bay listing was still out there.
Here is the description:
While I have high quality J-Heads available elsewhere on e-bay and in my web shop (hotends.com), I have decided to offer a J-Head hot-end for a lower price than even the counterfeits from the Far East. There is one caveat, however. You get what you pay for.
Many people have reported problems with the J-Head hot-end and, after their purchase, have found out that it is a counterfeit. The counterfeit hot-ends are usually made in China and the blueprints are never followed. This has been the result of many hot-end failures worldwide.
Please see the pictures that show the differences between genuine J-Head hot-ends and the counterfeits. The bottom two hot-ends are counterfeits. As there are a lot of variations, of counterfeits, I have not bought every variety. However, it is usually the easiest to tell counterfeits as they have 4 rows of vents and not 5. In addition, I have seen at least 3 different ways the vents have been cut. Without proper cooling vents and the correct internal configuration, the hot-end will fail.
Properly made J-Heads are great at printing both PLA and ABS. Some people have even printed nylon with them. It is critical, however, to not try to exceed 248 degrees (c) as the PEEK can soften above these temperatures. There is plenty of information at Reprap Wiki and J-Head Blog, as well.
When I sell a properly made J-Head hot-end (i.e. Mk V-BV and soon a Mk 8), I consider it my job to ensure that it works properly and guarantee that it is free of manufacturing defects.
Please note that the J-Head hot-end for sale, in this ad, is made from parts straight from my scrap bin and is guaranteed not to work. There may be major variations of the J-Head Mk V-BS due to the scrap parts having varying imperfections. As with some of the counterfeits, the PTFE liner is missing.
Quote
TTN
It has the 5 slots like the genuine jhead but whoever made it hasn't got a clue what they are doing as heaterblock is mounted onto the wrong end. I don't want to know what else they got backwards.
4 grooves: clone. Also, heaterblock is too large and the nozzle has the wrong shape.
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Re: Original jhead creator is going out of business. Chinese clones impossible to compete with October 20, 2015 04:02AM |
Talking of design theft...little did I know my designs would end up on a crowdfunding site within a week of posting here.
[www.indiegogo.com]
Thanks for the heads up, the people who contacted me.
I figured the first ebay link was you, raising awareness of the issues the BS obviously stands for ...you know
The machining defect clearly depicted.
I hope to pick one up soon, your best model, which I assume is the most recent....though maybe the smallest one would be an option?
the milling finish doesn't look smooth on some, is this to keep cost down, are they anodized ? or other coating, it looks quite thick.
and what about fixing to printer, the one I have at moment uses standard plate but I'm not happy with that solution it's not clamped in tight, I need rock solid, many ppl design their own, in plastic...It would be good if something like an aluminium bike torch holder could clamp it, as they are cheap & plentiful, or a picatinny rifle sight clamp or something.
From what I can see in the copies and possibly yours is that nozzle is part of the block it doesnt remove for replacement, is that correct.
Did you also create the first design / silver fin type too as they are listed as J-head also.
I figure the airflow over the black versions would hug the cylinder & go through the holes, but wonder why there wasn't a few more fins.. near the top, or why you didn't source some alu extrusion or heatsinks and modify that to keep cost in check.
if the nozzle cant be replaced and the whole block has to be changed, whats the cost of the?
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/20/2015 08:11PM by MechaBits.
[www.indiegogo.com]
Thanks for the heads up, the people who contacted me.
I figured the first ebay link was you, raising awareness of the issues the BS obviously stands for ...you know
The machining defect clearly depicted.
I hope to pick one up soon, your best model, which I assume is the most recent....though maybe the smallest one would be an option?
the milling finish doesn't look smooth on some, is this to keep cost down, are they anodized ? or other coating, it looks quite thick.
and what about fixing to printer, the one I have at moment uses standard plate but I'm not happy with that solution it's not clamped in tight, I need rock solid, many ppl design their own, in plastic...It would be good if something like an aluminium bike torch holder could clamp it, as they are cheap & plentiful, or a picatinny rifle sight clamp or something.
From what I can see in the copies and possibly yours is that nozzle is part of the block it doesnt remove for replacement, is that correct.
Did you also create the first design / silver fin type too as they are listed as J-head also.
I figure the airflow over the black versions would hug the cylinder & go through the holes, but wonder why there wasn't a few more fins.. near the top, or why you didn't source some alu extrusion or heatsinks and modify that to keep cost in check.
if the nozzle cant be replaced and the whole block has to be changed, whats the cost of the?
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/20/2015 08:11PM by MechaBits.
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