Issues found building printer...

Hello All

First post, spent ages reading all other posts.

Its built, not yet tested it due to I was taking my time not to make any mistakes.
But I have had a few issues also along the way as follows:

• One of the laser cut sheets (x-rib) arrived with the tab broken, however a dab of super glue resolved that issue.
• The M5 threaded z-rod needs to have some sort of bracket fitted at the top of it, for health & safety and also if you knock it (even softly) it breaks the tab on the x-rib (around the M5 nut), had to super glue that back together, I may have to print a block with a slot in it to stop it breaking in the future.
• Z axis motor loom had the red and green wires shifted over 1 pint towards the blue wire, had to move them to the correct locations.
• Controller board had missing solder on all 4 earth mounting pins, had to solder them in by hand.
• Broken crimp on heater cartridge caused by me, was fitting it when the phone rang and fitted it into the wrong location, was a bugger to remove which resulted in breaking the two locking bars on the side of the crimp, if I get any issues I will re-crimp it.
• The Hot End wobbles some what, however I have read that changing the baring to a 10mm one may sort this.
• The thick white power cable with the 4 crimps on them will not fit through the Duet-enclosure, I had to file the slot wider to allow for the two wires to fit.
• Also the SD card slot on the Duet-enclosure was two small for the supplied SD Card so I had to widen that up also.
• The Duet-enclosure could of been a few more mm larger in depth due to the Duet-enclosure-lid is catching on the Ethernet socket, resulting in not locking to the enclosure that side.
• When assembling the heat bed you show the cardboard maybe the wrong way round? due to the other way round its slot at the bottom is more centred both sides of the two ISC sockets, but with your way it catches on the left IDC socket.
• The blue wire from the Sensor loom that is fitted to one of the pins of the top IDC needs to be bent downwards a little so that the wire and enclosure-lid can be fitted.

I also had to improvise on the fitting of the IDC connectors, I had no IDC tool, nor a vice so I had to pinch a silicon glue gun and attach 2 blocks of wood and press fit the IDC connectors to the ribbon cable, was looked at rather strangely, but it worked rather well

Apart from that building the printer wasn't too bad, to be honest when I opened the box and saw all the parts and looking at all the pages that I printed was very off putting and I have been in the electronic industry for the last 25 odd years..

At first I was rather disappointed with this product when it first arrived and after reading all the issue that everyone was having, I also was misled to thinking it was a fully working product and not something still in beta, I was however fully aware of it being a kit
That said I did however enjoy putting it together and learning how this printer works etc, I have been in the Software and Hardware engineering for the last 25 odd years and I learnt some new stuff which I thought was rather cool.
So I am not so disappointed with this product, more with RS for not saying this product is new and still in development, I still would of brought it but later on when it matured more and reduced some of the issues.

I am currently at the Commissioning so I have all the testing and calibrating to do, then hopefully after all that I will get to print something
I am already behind schedule of creating our prototype enclosure by about 3 weeks due to RS messing up my order, however I have it all built now so all is not bad now.
Just need to I quote "Watch for smoke in case something has gone horribly wrong!" cracks me up every time I read that.

Paul

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RS Ormerod No 436

Quote
TMD_RS436
[...]
[*]The M5 threaded z-rod needs to have some sort of bracket fitted at the top of it, for health & safety and also if you knock it (even softly) it breaks the tab on the x-rib (around the M5 nut), had to super glue that back together, I may have to print a block with a slot in it to stop it breaking in the future.
l

Good catch. I thought this. That threaded rod could easily poke your eye out. You could put a ping pong ball on it for now.

Ideally the end of the rod should be turned down and have a bearing fitted with some sort of bracket off the z- axis. Which would also stop it wibblin'

regards
Andy

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Ormerod #318
www.zoomworks.org - Free and Open Source Stuff

Quote
TMD_RS436

[*]The thick white power cable with the 4 crimps on them will not fit through the Duet-enclosure, I had to file the slot wider to allow for the two wires to fit.

Agreed, I split the cable in two and removed the isolation on the crimps and this sure was no overstatement "You need a good, square, crimping tool, or the crimps won’t fit well in the terminals"

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[*]The Duet-enclosure could of been a few more mm larger in depth due to the Duet-enclosure-lid is catching on the Ethernet socket, resulting in not locking to the enclosure that side.

true that

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I had no IDC tool, nor a vice so I had to pinch a silicon glue gun and attach 2 blocks of wood and press fit the IDC connectors to the ribbon cable, was looked at rather strangely, but it worked rather well

Brilliant idea! - could also be used as a wood splitter for very small stoves!

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Just need to I quote "Watch for smoke in case something has gone horribly wrong!" cracks me up every time I read that.

Thank you for sharing and good luck he he...

Erik

Hello Andy

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kwikius
Good catch. I thought this. That threaded rod could easily poke your eye out. You could put a ping pong ball on it for now.

Ideally the end of the rod should be turned down and have a bearing fitted with some sort of bracket off the z- axis. Which would also stop it wibblin'

regards
Andy

LOL, funny as it seems, that may work for now
Like you said would be nice to have an arm that has a bearing fitted along with T-nuts screws and attach it to the Z axis Aluminium extrusion near the top, its not that I will be printing an object that is that high anyway.

Also there is a fair amount of differences between the Green version of Ormerod and the RS limited version which reminds me of another issue that I had.
The Proximity sensor is a bugger to fit the connector to it once fitted, this is due to on the RS Red version we have a larger area on the X-carriage where we fit the sensor that pushes on the connector and when fitted and screwed tight the Proximity sensor board is warped a little pushing out the top of the board, where as looking at the green version that doesn't have that issue.

Also I have a long white tube that isn't even mentioned in the build instructions, and no I am not referring to the "The plastic filament Bowden tube" on the Hot end assembly.
I am assuming it goes into the input of the Extruder and fed round the left to the filament reel.

Also are we suppose to have some screws and a nut left over LOL.

Paul

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/05/2014 05:01AM by TMD_RS436.

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RS Ormerod No 436

The printed part at the top of the vertical extrusion that holds the Z runner could easily be extended to cover and hold the top of the threaded rod. I might make the modification myself.

Hello Erik

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ormerod168

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TMD_RS436

[*]The thick white power cable with the 4 crimps on them will not fit through the Duet-enclosure, I had to file the slot wider to allow for the two wires to fit.

Agreed, I split the cable in two and removed the isolation on the crimps and this sure was no overstatement "You need a good, square, crimping tool, or the crimps won’t fit well in the terminals"

Yeah, I miss read that the first time and not having a square crimp, and where I miss read it I soldered on the crimps, which I must say looked awesome, but sadly it didn't fit, so I had to remove all the solder from the crimp and squash the pin of the crimp very small and touch it up with solder and using a file squared it out and it then fitted in the terminal block.

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ormerod168

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TMD_RS436
[*]The Duet-enclosure could of been a few more mm larger in depth due to the Duet-enclosure-lid is catching on the Ethernet socket, resulting in not locking to the enclosure that side.

true that

Yeah, I may dremel a bit off the enclosure-lid so that it fits, but its ok for now, it still seems to be holding.

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ormerod168

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TMD_RS436
I had no IDC tool, nor a vice so I had to pinch a silicon glue gun and attach 2 blocks of wood and press fit the IDC connectors to the ribbon cable, was looked at rather strangely, but it worked rather well

Brilliant idea! - could also be used as a wood splitter for very small stoves!

LOL.

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ormerod168

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TMD_RS436
Just need to I quote "Watch for smoke in case something has gone horribly wrong!" cracks me up every time I read that.

Thank you for sharing and good luck he he...

Erik

No probs

Paul

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RS Ormerod No 436

Quote
TMD_RS436

I am already behind schedule of creating our prototype enclosure by about 3 weeks due to RS messing up my order, however I have it all built now so all is not bad now.

Looks like I'm not alone ! I ordered early Dec, and RS messed up my order and cancelled , re-ordered, messed up again , and still waiting for my third order and been informed by RS that Ormerod will be deliver by end of this month ,( although their web page stated will be available by 6th Jan ) now nearly 2 months still waiting . I'm thinking of cancel the order and just build Prusa I3 instead, which cost me USD559 included shipping. If RepRap pro packed with all items that mentioned in this forum ( printed fan cover, 10mm bearing, upgraded power supply etc.) I will just wait until end of this month.


Ew

Quote
TMD_RS436
[*]The M5 threaded z-rod needs to have some sort of bracket fitted at the top of it, for health & safety and also if you knock it (even softly) it breaks the tab on the x-rib (around the M5 nut), had to super glue that back together, I may have to print a block with a slot in it to stop it breaking in the future.
Paul

Yes, I put a ball of white insulation tape (better than nothing) on the top with a bit sticking out as a rotation flag.

Thanks, I now know where that bit of black plastic came from, searched everywhere when I found it during the build, but not sure where it is now!

If anyone designs a top mount for the threaded rod, my thoughts were perhaps just use/develop the z motor mount and invert it (the thread is in line with the motor mounting hole). I also think it would be good to allow the threaded rod freedom to move in the vertical direction as I think the current freedom prevented damage when the z home failed and kept driving downwards!

Also add a catch to hold the z axis up if manually raised. I had a few occasions where it would have been useful to fold the arm in the raised position (i.e. lifted disengaged from the drive nut).

Crimping of the power leads and getting them to fit the terminal block was my biggest headache, the other crimps came second! But my build went very well.

@Ian (RepRapPro) as noted above there are differences between the RS build and the green build. As many of us can now print parts on the RS build are there any parts you would recommend we print to your latest standard?
I am thinking of reliability/robustness here as the machine is built.

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tru168
...... I ordered early Dec, and RS messed up my order and cancelled , re-ordered, messed up again , and still waiting for my third order and been informed by RS that Ormerod will be deliver by end of this month ...
Ew

I think RS and RepRapPro were hit by the success of the uptake of the Ormerod. Having been caught out previously with the Raspberry Pi launch delivery issues and having to wait months (just for a PCB!), I acted fast and ordered within hours from RS of the Ormerod launch and got #007 (next day I think!). A friend who ordered shortly afterwards was out of luck and was told the 500 hundred flew off the shelves. After that I guess it was a production/delivery rate issue, but I'm still not clear why some people had to re-order and why it was not simply a part number change?
If you 'hang in' now your Ormerod should be a wiz to build and the software hopefully will be more robust for you also.

I totally agree that the M5 threaded z-rod need to be cover by something, it could easily poke your eye out. Please share STL file if you guys come out with a rounded cover for that.

Hello Tru

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tru168

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TMD_RS436

I am already behind schedule of creating our prototype enclosure by about 3 weeks due to RS messing up my order, however I have it all built now so all is not bad now.

Looks like I'm not alone ! I ordered early Dec, and RS messed up my order and cancelled , re-ordered, messed up again , and still waiting for my third order and been informed by RS that Ormerod will be deliver by end of this month ,( although their web page stated will be available by 6th Jan ) now nearly 2 months still waiting . I'm thinking of cancel the order and just build Prusa I3 instead, which cost me USD559 included shipping. If RepRap pro packed with all items that mentioned in this forum ( printed fan cover, 10mm bearing, upgraded power supply etc.) I will just wait until end of this month.


Ew

Well basically I ordered it on the 13th of December when I was notified about it on DesignSpark's site and thought why not, I saw it in stock, but while reading the description it become out of stock, a few mins later it was in stock again, so I ordered it rather fast along with a spare filament, got the confirmation email i.e. stating Next working day dispatch/delivery etc, Monday 16th December no dispatch email, viewed RS site again to check on my order and it said out of stock, so I phoned them up and was told that both items is being dispatched and will arrive on Tuesday 17th December, On the 17th I got a parcel with just the extra filament and no 3D Printer, I looked on RS to see that red version (which I ordered) was now discontinued so I rang them up again, asking what is going on, where I was told she has no clue what has happened but they was now out of stock and won't get any more of the red versions in and was told to cancel that order and reorder the new green one which was out of stock btw, so I thought ok, however you cannot cancel an RS order when you have received part of it it seems, so another phone call where I was told just ignore the old order due to it won't progress any further, so I though ok and made the new order for a green one which was due for back orders on the 7th of January.

I was then presented with another email on the Monday 30th December stating that my original Red version has been dispatched, at this point I was like WTF and had to then phone once again to clarify that it was the original red version order where I was told yes and that it had defiantly been dispatched and was told yes, so I asked for the new order of the green version to be cancelled which she did.

Low and behold it finally arrived on the 31 of December.
I am glad in a way that it took that long due to I would of ended up with one of the ones below the 100 range which would of had a lot more issues with it, but at the same time a tad bit mad due to the causing of the delay of designing our prototype enclosure.

Paul.

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RS Ormerod No 436

Hi Treth ,

Yes , I'm one of those lucky guy who successfully purchased one of the Raspberry Pi from their very first batch.

I've been told by local RS help line ,that RS web system actually not linked worldwide in real time. My first order delayed for few days before it upload to UK branch and its all gone. order cancelled. RS informed that second order will deliver by 23th of Dec, but then few days later , ( system delayed again ) The limited version all sold out and ask me yo cancel order again. third order placed with different parts number for the green one. Now still waiting for 3rd order. Ok Treth , I'll take your advice, I just wait for the green Ormerod to arrive and see how it goes. Thanks .


EW

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/06/2014 10:41AM by tru168.

Hi TMD_RS436 ,

Looks like its the same RS issue as you. I spent more than 2 hours total call time with RS help line too. Strange that, their order can't be cancel and just leave it like that.

Hello Tru

Quote
tru168
Hi Treth ,

Yes , I'm one of those lucky guy who successfully purchased one of the Raspberry Pi from their very first batch.

I've been told by local RS help line ,that RS web system actually not linked worldwide in real time. My first order delayed for few days before it upload to UK branch and its all gone. order cancelled automatically. RS informed that second order will deliver by 23th of Dec, but then few days later , ( system delayed again ) The limited version all sold out and ask me yo cancel order again. third order placed with different parts number for the green one. Now still waiting for 3rd order. Ok Treth , I'll take your advice, I just wait for the green Ormerod to arrive and see how it goes. Thanks .


EW

I also was able to funny enough get 2 Pi's when they first came out, but I was sneaky I got 1 from RS and the other from Farnell due to we needed 2 for something that we was working on at the time.

Yeah, the new green one goes by order number: 795-2333
Which states "Temporarily out of stock - back order for despatch 06/01/2014" so you should be in the back order.
At least you was told what happened, everybody that I spoke to had no clue what was going on, and I was put on hold loads of times, so I gave a right old moan on the phone .

Paul

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RS Ormerod No 436

Hello Tru

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tru168
Hi TMD_RS436 ,

Looks like its the same RS issue as you. I spent more than 2 hours total call time with RS help line too. Strange that, their order can't be cancel and just leave it like that.

Yeah, I think I spent around that on the phone to them, which most of that time I was on hold.
The funny thing is I had an option to return the item that wasn't even dispatched.

I was a bit worried when I was told the just ignore the original order and to make a new one, I am glad in a way that I left the original there or I may also be still waiting for it to be dispatched.

Paul

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RS Ormerod No 436

Hi Paul/TMD_RS436

Thanks for your feedback. Glad you grew to enjoy the process of building, however maddening! We still firmly believe that building a 3D printer gives you a much deeper insight into how the machine works, and encourages more experimentation. However, it's not for everyone - there are, of course, other, more commercial options available. I can't really comment on the RS ordering problems, or how they advertise it; perhaps if you could send them an email?

To answer your points:
x-rib - If you need a replacement, email me on support at reprappro dot com, with you name, address and machine number (we don't have access to the RS customer database). When you get to printing, print out the current z-nut-trap, which includes the nut trap in the printed part. You can cut the nut trap off the x-rib.

Sorry about the Z motor loom and Duet soldering problems. We're trying to improve the reliability of our suppliers.

We try to be clear in the instructions about how to wire the hot end; I'll review it to see if it can be clearer. Yes, the crimps are difficult to remove - you really need a thin shim you can slide up the side of the crimp, from the open end. It's important to get the crimp solidly in the housing; there will be poor or no connection if the pin is pushed back out when you connect the loom. Putting the crimp on the hot end heater wire can be difficult to do; the wire is right on the limit of the size that fits in the crimp. You should/may have some spare crimps left over from the bed thermistor.

The bearing on the back of the x-carriage should be kept in contact with the back of the x-axis-plate by the weight of the hot end; the bearing should be the only point of contact. The 9mm bearing should work, but we're looking at whether a 10mm bearing works better on balance.

Duet enclosure - we've done a number of mods to this. Usually squashing the clips on the top of ethernet socket helps, and the instructions show the proximity sensor connector with the pin bent down.

I assembled another heated bed on Friday, and noticed that the cardboard was the wrong way around - I'm not sure if the lasercut has changed. I flipped it over too, so the thermistor wire comes out on the Y motor side of the y-rib. I'll retake the pictures, when I get a chance.

"Watch for smoke in case something has gone horribly wrong!" - I wrote that! And it's a valid test...

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

A note about the Z axis leadscrew: do not constrain the top. This has long been a problem in the reprap world, due to the use of cheap, but not necessarily straight, studding rather than expensive machined leadscrew. We designed the Ormerod to overcome many of the frame problems that the Mendel has. One of the biggest problems people have in reprap world is Z-banding (a wave in the vertical wall of printed parts that is the same pitch as the leadscrew), where the effect of a non-central leadscrew-to-motor shaft coupler, or a constrained non-linear leadscrew, pushes the X axis around (as it sits on the Z axis).

We designed the Z-leadscrew to rotate on a bearing at the bottom, to take away the effect of the motor coupler. There is no constraint at the top, so any bend in the studding does not try to force sideways movement in the X axis. Because the X axis is better constrained than a Mendel, the chances are it will actually stall the motor, rather than push the X axis around.

I hope that makes some of our design choices clear. Though something on the top of the leadscrew would help regarding health and safety, though!

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/05/2014 08:50AM by droftarts.

Hello Ian

Quote
droftarts
Hi Paul/TMD_RS436

Thanks for your feedback. Glad you grew to enjoy the process of building, however maddening! We still firmly believe that building a 3D printer gives you a much deeper insight into how the machine works, and encourages more experimentation. However, it's not for everyone - there are, of course, other, more commercial options available. I can't really comment on the RS ordering problems, or how they advertise it; perhaps if you could send them an email?

Yeah, I have always loved building stuff, I did see other 3D Printers on other sites, but this price seemed about right for a kit and where RS was selling it I thought yeah, why not.

Quote
droftarts
To answer your points:
x-rib - If you need a replacement, email me on support at reprappro dot com, with you name, address and machine number (we don't have access to the RS customer database). When you get to printing, print out the current z-nut-trap, which includes the nut trap in the printed part. You can cut the nut trap off the x-rib.

Yeah I may just do that once I have tested and calibrated it fully.

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droftarts
Sorry about the Z motor loom and Duet soldering problems. We're trying to improve the reliability of our suppliers.

That's ok, these things happen.

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droftarts
We try to be clear in the instructions about how to wire the hot end; I'll review it to see if it can be clearer. Yes, the crimps are difficult to remove - you really need a thin shim you can slide up the side of the crimp, from the open end. It's important to get the crimp solidly in the housing; there will be poor or no connection if the pin is pushed back out when you connect the loom. Putting the crimp on the hot end heater wire can be difficult to do; the wire is right on the limit of the size that fits in the crimp. You should/may have some spare crimps left over from the bed thermistor.

Oh, you were clear, it was just the phone rang and I got distracted due to I had to answer it, and when I put the hot end assembly down the wire partly went in the connector and when I got of the phone I saw it partly in and pushed it the rest of the way not even looking at the instructions, and when I realised it was wrong, I heard a faint click where I went Noooo as well as a few other words .

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droftarts
The bearing on the back of the x-carriage should be kept in contact with the back of the x-axis-plate by the weight of the hot end; the bearing should be the only point of contact. The 9mm bearing should work, but we're looking at whether a 10mm bearing works better on balance.

Oh its in contact with x-axis plate, but its not level, however a 10mm bearing may make it more level, it was where I can rock it back and forth that worried me.

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droftarts
Duet enclosure - we've done a number of mods to this. Usually squashing the clips on the top of ethernet socket helps, and the instructions show the proximity sensor connector with the pin bent down.

Yeah, I did try pushing the Ethernet shielding tabs flush, but its still not enough.
And yeah the image did show the pin bent, but instructions to bend the pin, that's what I meant.

Quote
droftarts
I assembled another heated bed on Friday, and noticed that the cardboard was the wrong way around - I'm not sure if the lasercut has changed. I flipped it over too, so the thermistor wire comes out on the Y motor side of the y-rib. I'll retake the pictures, when I get a chance.

Yeah, I did originally do it the way it said in the instructions, but it just didn't feel right and looked weird.

Quote
droftarts
"Watch for smoke in case something has gone horribly wrong!" - I wrote that! And it's a valid test...

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

Oh I agree, in fact I also follow that rule, if it hasn't fitz with smoke within the first few seconds of plugging it in then it may not.
I wasn't taking the mick, I just thought it was funny due to I am always saying something on those lines.

Paul

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RS Ormerod No 436

Hello Ian

Quote
droftarts
A note about the Z axis leadscrew: do not constrain the top. This has long been a problem in the reprap world, due to the use of cheap, but not necessarily straight, studding rather than expensive machined leadscrew. We designed the Ormerod to overcome many of the frame problems that the Mendel has. One of the biggest problems people have in reprap world is Z-banding (a wave in the vertical wall of printed parts that is the same pitch as the leadscrew), where the effect of a non-central leadscrew-to-motor shaft coupler, or a constrained non-linear leadscrew, pushes the X axis around (as it sits on the Z axis).

We designed the Z-leadscrew to rotate on a bearing at the bottom, to take away the effect of the motor coupler. There is no constraint at the top, so any bend in the studding does not try to force sideways movement in the X axis. Because the X axis is better constrained than a Mendel, the chances are it will actually stall the motor, rather than push the X axis around.

I hope that makes some of our design choices clear. Though something on the top of the leadscrew would help regarding health and safety, though!

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

I think I understand, I think.
Are you saying the rod needs to be able to move up if need be in case of issues?

I was thinking of having a block attached to the frame via T-nuts with a bearing (not a tight inner fit) just to stop it wiggling about, it was to have a closed top with about 10mm gap above the rod, but if I have to have a hole right through it to be safe, then so be it.

Paul

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RS Ormerod No 436

Paul

Not quite... If the z-leadscrew is not quite straight, and is attached so it can't move at the bottom AND top, it wants to move horizontally in the middle as it turns. Sort of like a skipping rope, attached vertically. But it is constrained from moving there by the z-nut-trap. So it will either try to escape the nut trap (pushing the X axis around), or stall the motor (if the motor doesn't have enough power). So there shouldn't be any constraint at the top at all, leaving it connected at the bottom and the z-nut-trap, so the rod is always in line at these two points. This does mean the rod can wobble around at the top, though. You can try straightening the rod if it annoys you! Roll it on a flat surface, and gently bend it straighter.

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

Hello Ian

Quote
droftarts
Paul

Not quite... If the z-leadscrew is not quite straight, and is attached so it can't move at the bottom AND top, it wants to move horizontally in the middle as it turns. Sort of like a skipping rope, attached vertically. But it is constrained from moving there by the z-nut-trap. So it will either try to escape the nut trap (pushing the X axis around), or stall the motor (if the motor doesn't have enough power). So there shouldn't be any constraint at the top at all, leaving it connected at the bottom and the z-nut-trap, so the rod is always in line at these two points. This does mean the rod can wobble around at the top, though. You can try straightening the rod if it annoys you! Roll it on a flat surface, and gently bend it straighter.

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

Oh right I get you now.

Thanks.

Paul

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RS Ormerod No 436

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TMD_RS436

Quote
droftarts
Duet enclosure - we've done a number of mods to this. Usually squashing the clips on the top of ethernet socket helps, and the instructions show the proximity sensor connector with the pin bent down.

Yeah, I did try pushing the Ethernet shielding tabs flush, but its still not enough.
Paul

I found I was able to snap off the clips quite cleanly. Just bend them in and out a few times and they will break at the corner.

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RS Ormerod #472

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tim_h
I found I was able to snap off the clips quite cleanly. Just bend them in and out a few times and they will break at the corner.

Yes, I did that too, then I gently filed off the sharp edges where the clips broke off, taking care that the filings fell away from the board. The back cover just fits now.

Quote

The thick white power cable with the 4 crimps on them will not fit through the Duet-enclosure, I had to file the slot wider to allow for the two wires to fit.

In the absence of the square crimping tool, I found it easier to tin the wires, rather than crimp the blue ferrules on in such as way that they would fit in the terminal blocks.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].