Different Duet boards and different boot times?

Hello,

Friday I got my new replacement board. Yesterday I prepared it and something is strange: It takes much longer until the network is available, regardless of the firmware or configuration file. (I ran tests with different SD-cards and switched between my Ormerod 1 and 2 config.g). My old broken Duets and the Duet of the Ormerod 2 are faster with Ethernet (2 seconds against 10 seconds, times are only roughly).
How is this possible?

Kind regards,

Sven

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Perhaps the 5V supply is coming up more slowly on the new board? Use a multimeter to check.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I would guess the 3.3V. The idea I had after I posted this thread. I used the 5V from on-board now (not the external board) and yesterday I ran the test with USB power only. There is no difference between yesterday and today. Is the 3.3V regulator also a switching one or a linear?

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

The 3.3V regulator is a linear one. Unless it has a very high capacitive load on it, it should follow the 5V supply very quickly.

If you press the reset button, does it still take a long time to come up?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/25/2015 11:07AM by dc42.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Right now I am printing the calibration test piece so I cannot test it. After that I normally planned to do a test series of 3DBenchys to compare the different slicers. Someone wanted to do this in the German forum but I did not see anything. Maybe it will be tomorrow. By the way I remember that after flashing the FW (I switched between ZPL's and yours I had the same problem.
So if the 3.3V is also linear I am astonished that this problem happens with both voltages.
And second question? Is this a fault? Replikeo promised me to have tested both boards. Okay it is working but it takes much more time to boot.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

You do know if you run a Level Bed that you don't need to run with Calibration. It make life a whole lot simpler....

As for your problem. Do you use WiFi to connect your PC to the network. If so then it could be the spectrum is crowded there, and your Ormerod is taking longer to register.

---

Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
I won't see comments in threads, as I move around to much.
Working Link to Big Blue 360 Complete

I have one stupid question? How should I connect via WiFi? It is a Duet board version 0.6.
I tried to level my Omerod 1 several times but this does not resist for long. After 2 days the calibration does not work anymore and also we are talking from the height. If I want a comparable result I have to recalibrate as less as possible so I can make sure that I use exact the same conditions. So I think it is better to run the test tomorrow as I have to print 4 or 5 little ships.
(SimpliFy3D, Slic3r, Cura, MatterControl and maybe Kisslicer)
The calibration needs also to be done because a) I lent some screws for my Ormerod 2 and I replaced it and b) the prints where not exact I had to reprint them all.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/25/2015 01:43PM by Treito.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

If you are using your Laptop to control the Ormerod, and the network cable from the Ormerod is connected to your laptop, then if you have set it up correctly it is on the WiFi network.
(Provided you Bridge the Ethernet and WiFi networks).
Therefore, you could even connect to it via your WiFi enabled phone in a web browser.... Provided your Laptop is powered up that is.
The IP address you gave your Ormerod must be an unused IP address, and the Gateway is set to your router normally...
If you want to find out what the network settings should be then open a cmd window, enter ipconfig, and it will tell you your Laptops Ip address, and the Gateway it uses.
For sometime I didn't use the Web interface, because my Ormerod would be on at least 4 different networks during a month of traveling. But once you start to know what needs
altering, it becomes very easy to do...

The delay you are talking about could well be the time it takes for the router to accept your printer in to the network.
Also you need to check that your WiFi channel isn't being shared with other houses, or it could even be someone else in the house is using up allot of your band width, say watching a HD movie
or downloading stuff. I struggled with the network settings when I started to use the network instead of USB.

As for leveling the Bed, I suggest you get one of the Aluminium Triangular sub beds, and a DTI (Dial Test Indicator). Once the bed is fitted, use the DTI and you can level the bed in minutes.
My Bed is level to +/- 0.05mm now, all over.. So I consider it level... I'm an Engineer, so also fitted an Aluminium X axis arm, which I had to draw file to true up and get very close to level.
But the bit of effort it took to do, was well worth it.

PS I can control my Ormerod on my Ipad if I want to because it's on the home network I'm currently using.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/25/2015 07:08PM by KimBrown.

---

Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
I won't see comments in threads, as I move around to much.
Working Link to Big Blue 360 Complete

First of all I use a cable connection to my Router. My Ormerod 2 is on the same Router (as they are both standing on the same table at the moment) and we are talking about the time until the lights go on. So that delay is not caused by the Router. I would say that the startup-time of the ATMEL is delayed for what reason ever. I hope I can run some tests later this day. So I am of course able to reach my printers at home with my Android powered devices, too. Outside the house I do not want to do so as I do not want to leave the printer long time alone as I already had two times trouble with the Thermistor readings which caused the heater to heat permanently. One time a loose connection and one time a broken Duet.
I did not change anything at the setup. At least this is a replacement for the last broken Duet where only the ADC channels where out of work.
For my profession I also studied Ethernet and IP configuration so I am familiar with the settings. I even got two certificates from Cisco. If they are useful is another question.

BTW the delay was also via USB connection. Bossac did not find the Duet either. With my other boards (the 2 broken ones and the one from the Ormerod 2) I can reach the board via bossac nearly immediately as I have to go to the PC and take a seat. That takes some seconds. With the new board I have to wait.

A DTI is that precise? Once I used a cable detector to find a broken cable inside a wall. I was astonished that the broken part was exact there where I located it, but we are talking about a wall and a hole of some cm. If you take a look at my signature I already have these Aluminium parts for my Ormerod 1 as we are talking currently of it. My Ormerod 2 uses a MK3 heated bed BTW (That is the Aluminium heated bed).

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Hmmm. I've just looked at the Duet schematic, and the power-up reset for the CPU is very crude - which is OK because the CPU contains a brownout monitor and synchronous reset circuit on-chip. There is just a 10nF capacitor from the asynchronous reset pin (pin 47) to 3.3V. I cannot see that this reset signal goes anywhere else on the board apart from the JTAG connector and reset pushbutton (both usually open circuit). So the power-up reset delay seems to rely on this capacitor discharging via the CPU's internal 15k pullup resistor. The reset pushbutton is connected between the reset line and ground, and so when pressed will instantly charge the capacitor to 3.3V, and after release the same RC delay should ensue. The capacitor will maintain 3.3V on the reset pin after power is removed, and the circuit presumably relies on it discharging rapidly through the CPU's internal pad protection diode, though fast PSU cycles (brownouts) that are usually a problem with such a crude circuit will be taken care of by the CPU's internal power monitor and reset circuit. That CPU internal reset signal is fed to pin 69 and used to provide a "proper" reset to external chips such as the Ethernet Phy (which additionally has its own RC reset delay so exits reset after the CPU).

The tolerance of internal pad pullup resistors is not usually all that good, and so I would expect the reset delay to be pretty variable, though 10 seconds is very long. Maybe the 10nF capacitor shown on my old schematic was changed to a higher value in later boards, or was perhaps mis-populated with a higher value in the board you have. Unfortunately SMD capacitors are not marked and so it would be difficult to see whether it really is 10nF - there is little visible difference between 10nF, 100nF or even 1uF. Another possibility is a resistive leak between pin 47 and ground. Pin 46 is ground, and is physically very close to pin 46 so there is a reasonable possibility of a resistive leak between them.

Dave

Many thanks that you take such a look at the schematic. Wow.
To your last idea: If there would be such a resistive leakage I would run in trouble even during printing. But it is not so.

Somehow I had a strange phanomen yesterday evening. My Firefox was still connected. FileZilla refuses the connection and Google Chrome on my Android smartphone asked for a user name and password! Shortly before it worked.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
Many thanks that you take such a look at the schematic. Wow.
To your last idea: If there would be such a resistive leakage I would run in trouble even during printing. But it is not so.

No, that would not be the case. A leakage to ground would just slow down the rate at which the capacitor discharged and so increase the reset delay. It would not affect anything once the voltage had risen enough to take it out of reset and the CPU was running. A leakage resistance of, say, 150k ohms or more between CPU pins in general is unlikely to affect its operation (apart from slightly incorrect and/or noisy temperature and Z sensor values). The gap between pins is about 0.2mm, and surface contamination or slight moisture could easily create a high resistance path across such a small gap.

Dave

So there is no easy chance to grab this signal for scope purposes?

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

It is really weird. Sometimes it is up in two seconds, sometimes it needs 12 seconds. When it boots up in 2 seconds the LED of the heater cartridge turns on and off several times. I would guess a frequency of 3 or 4 Hz; ti and tp seems to be equal.
The second board needs up to 18 seconds to get ready.

But: An original board von RepRap also boots with different boot times. It seems that Dave is on the right way regarding the reset pin. If I shortly repower (within 5 seconds) the Duet it is ready in 2 seconds. If I wait longer than 10 seconds the Duet needs more than 10 seconds to power up.

I am sorry, but after 2 broken Duets I am a bit sensitive. What abot the heater cartridge problem?

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
So there is no easy chance to grab this signal for scope purposes?

Sure - first 'scope the CPU's synchronous reset output on pin 69 of the CPU - it is easiest accessed on the cathode of D4. Trigger the 'scope near the top of the rising edge of the 5V or 3.3V supply, and look at the delay before that reset signal goes high (which is the power-on reset delay). If you compare that delay with the other board it will tell you whether or not it is the culprit. While you are at it, you should also 'scope the anode of D4 which is the Ethernet PHY reset. If that is too long it could also hold up the CPU initialisation. Note that signal is not digital - it will ramp up slowly after the CPU reset goes high (10uF cap charging via 10k resistor), releasing the PHY as it passes 2.5V or so, but you will see whether it differs greatly between your two boards. If it does, suspect a wrong value for R5 or C7. (Thinking about it, a missing or badly soldered R5 would possibly exhibit the symptoms you describe).

If the CPU reset is the culprit, you can then look at the reset input (pin 47 of the CPU). That signal goes to the reset pushbutton which will be the easiest place to 'scope it. You should see it ramping up after power is applied as the reset capacitor is discharged via the CPU's internal 15k pullup. If the delay is too long, you could reduce it by putting a pullup resistor from that signal to 3.3V, which will then be in parallel with the CPU's internal 15k pullup. Or replace the capacitor (C2) in case it is the wrong value - it should be 10nF (0.01uF).

Dave

I am not happy to hold a small testpin anywhere at the board especially the ATSAM and to use the scope soft at the same time. The risk of Interruption of the signal is high or a can short cut two pins if I glitch from a pin. As you said the pins of the Duet are only 0.2mm wide. That is not an easy task so I would like to grab the signal. I do not know if my clamps can hold on adiode. Maybe it is possible maybe not, but the ATSAM? No way. Sorry.

Edit: What about the expansion pin header? It seems that the first four pins nearly offers my all that I want.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/27/2015 08:43AM by Treito.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
I am not happy to hold a small testpin anywhere at the board especially the ATSAM and to use the scope soft at the same time. The risk of Interruption of the signal is high or a can short cut two pins if I glitch from a pin. As you said the pins of the Duet are only 0.2mm wide. That is not an easy task so I would like to grab the signal. I do not know if my clamps can hold on adiode. Maybe it is possible maybe not, but the ATSAM? No way. Sorry.

Edit: What about the expansion pin header? It seems that the first four pins nearly offers my all that I want.

As I said in my post, you can access the CPU reset output on the cathode of diode D4, the PHY reset on the anode of D4, and the reset input is available on either the reset switch or the JTAG connector (pin 10), so there is no need to go anywhere near the fine pitch CPU pins. One method I use is to tack-solder a thin wire to the component pin I need to 'scope (with the power off!) and use a clip-on probe on the wire. Tack-soldering a wire to a diode or switch pin does not require great precision or expertise. That way I am not touching the board while adjusting the 'scope, so no risk of the probe slipping.

Dave

I would grab the voltages and the CPU reset pin from the expansion header. But it seems that nearly all boards are effected. There is no need to grab the signal to the Ethernet port as also the USB connection is delayed, too.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
I would grab the voltages and the CPU reset pin from the expansion header. But it seems that nearly all boards are effected. There is no need to grab the signal to the Ethernet port as also the USB connection is delayed, too.

The reset output (NRST) does not go to the expansion header, nor does the PHY reset, and IMO will be the best place to check for an excessive reset delay as it is a digital signal that will be unaffected by probe capacitance (and would have been the better signal to take to the expansion connector IMO). The CPU reset input available on the header (RESET) is the easiest to 'scope - not only does it go to pin 4 on the expansion header, but also (as said) the reset switch and the JTAG header, so it's a doddle to get at.

Don't dismiss the PHY reset so quickly. It is quite possible (even likely) that the firmware does all hardware initialisation before servicing the USB, and so would wait for the PHY to be ready before the USB goes live. The first Duet firmware even waited a minute for an Ethernet connection before allowing USB comms, and so if you did not have a live Ethernet cable plugged in you'd have the annoying wait after every reset.

Dave

I plugged in the Ethernet cable every time as the LED indication was an easy way to get the time. I am not happy to solder on the Duet because it lefts traces back. If I would not have warranty on the Duet that would not be a problem but at new boards? For that reason the JTAG-connector is out. The better way is to use the expansion header. I think I may have a direct connection cable from one header pin to the scope so I would not need any clamping mechanism.

It seems that I am able to clamp the cathode of D4 (I hope this is the cathode) but not the anode. But I can clamp on C7 on both sides. The D4 is not really centered onto the PADs so one side (anode) would even hard to solder a line to it or even grab the signal with a pin.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Btw... I had the same connection problem as you the last few days. I was pulling my hair out with this Extruder problem, so stopping and starting the machine. Sometimes the connection was in a few seconds, other times, anything up to about 12 seconds. I even had it not connect at all, and I had to reboot everything. But I'm wondering if McAfee might be to blame.

A DTI is a mechanical measuring device for measuring variations in distance to 0.001mm I think you are thinking of some other device.

Got luck with a solution to your problem

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/01/2015 12:58AM by KimBrown.

---

Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
I won't see comments in threads, as I move around to much.
Working Link to Big Blue 360 Complete

Hello Kim,

I finally gave up, because it seems to be a normal behaviour more or less. Because of two broken Duets in very short time I was too sensitive, but I think this is a generally designing issue. Like dmould told: The reset pin is not connect in a proper way. Some similar connection is needed somehow to ensure the correct start (I had problems with one circuit driving a LCD-device from China because of a missing reset-pin-connection).

Best regards,

Sven

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/31/2015 10:35PM by Treito.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Hi Sven, I have a crazy situation with my Dual Extruder HotEnd. Always the Left hand nozzle blocks, for no good reason. I suspect that the power supply I'm using is not powerful enough,
but I am away working on a ship, and my bigger power supply is at home. I wanted to get the printer working, but sadly, it won't be for about a week now.

I have been looking at a very nice Printer at Hobbyking, which has dual extruders, and I'm tempted to buy one. But while it seems good, it only seems to use USB
I think after using the very good Web Interface by Christian, that I won't be happy going back to Pronterface now....lol

We want everything I think....

Good Luck.

---

Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
I won't see comments in threads, as I move around to much.
Working Link to Big Blue 360 Complete

Hi Kim,

wouldn't it be cheaper to buy a new PSU? What kind of PSU you are using? And the most important questions: Can you use your Dual Extruders seperately and alone? What happens if you swap the connections? BTW you can take a look at Octopie if you are missing a webinterface, but another printer? You want to betray us?
I am still curios. What is your task on the ship? Your profession? Kind of ship? Yard? Ship's name? (I would like to know if "you" are maybe a customer of us)

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.