Cheap ebay filament

I took the pludge and ordered some cheap orange filament from ebay totally expecting it to be inferior to the original white that was supplied.

I got around to trying it today, I did a live switch over, feeding the new filament manually until the extruder gear had hold of it.

I must say i'm very very pleased, the quality of the first print with this filament is excellent maybe even better than the white supplied, i did not change any temp or feed settings simply ran it through as the white was used up.

The filament cost ~4p per meter compared with RS's 29.9p a meter it seems to be a no-brainer!

here is a photo of my transition print, you can just about see the white right at the bottom.

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Limited Edition Red RS Ormerod 1 #144 of 200 - RRP 1.09fw
iamburnys Ormerod Upgrades Github
Follow me on ThingiVerse My Designs

Nice one Thanks for the info !

regards
Andy

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Ormerod #318
www.zoomworks.org - Free and Open Source Stuff

That's good to know! Which eBay supplier was it?

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

The ebay seller id is "printme3d"

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131063055447?var=430236695414&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

1.4kg filament is approx 450m for £18.49

although when delivered the reel weighed 1.2kg (including spool weight) so I've complained about that and hoping to get a partial refund.

Matt

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Limited Edition Red RS Ormerod 1 #144 of 200 - RRP 1.09fw
iamburnys Ormerod Upgrades Github
Follow me on ThingiVerse My Designs

Iamburny

these are clearly 1 Kg reels. Very similar looking ads from other sellers say 1 Kg. Seems like this guy is referring to the total weight of the package. Should you measure the filament to make sure it is the same dia before doing this sort of thing?

Your print looks fabulous, how is it all going? How did the build go? This forum is full of people who are having problems.

I agree about the price, RRP bang on about using a reliable source, believed to be Faberdashary not very competitive with your guy though.

Rory

Rory,

I think you are right about the reel being 1Kg the ebayer i purchased from has offered a discount price for future purchases as compensation. I don't have the tools to accurately measure the filament diameter so a fair amount of trust and/or luck is involved!

My build went very well and I thoroughly enjoyed it (might well do another), I spent about 7-8 hours in total to complete the hardware build and pretty much the whole supplied filament reel learning and tweaking and playing with different software approaches. The only problems I had during the build were the X-rib breaking (replaced by Ian, thanks ) and a shortage of 3mm nuts.

I have settled on the following customisations.
Manually leveled bed with 5 extra 3 x 25mm cap head screws, i spent about 2hrs getting this perfect +/- 0.1mm (
Baking paper/Kapton Tape hot end Fan exhaust duct (soon to be printed version!) thanks markbee
Duet enclosure moved far left behind Y-axis stepper motor.
A dash of vaseline on back of large extruder gear
I use 2 of the supplied clips to hold the glass bed in place, both on the right of the bed, I the right setbed locations of y170 to avoid collisions.

Printing
I only use Slic3r version 0.99 to prep my STL->G files all newer RC versions just don't result in acceptable quality.
Manually Homed Z-axis at 1st setbed.g point to almost touch bed (i use a sheet of paper under nozzle until it just touches) then up by 0.2mm, then use G92 Z0 (my rational is each layer is 0.24mm)
Printing G files manually copied to the SD from my PC.
Pronterface control via USB/serial connection, SD->SD Print, from within pronterface.
Temps set as 200C nozzle and 60-65C bed.

Other things of note
The first layer is crucial to the whole print if the nozzle is to close to the bed (< 0.15mm) the initial perimeter its fat and flat which can cause excessively sticky peice on the bed and also can cause debris around the nozzle which tends to lead to malformed layers, if the nozzle is to far away ( > 0.24mm) the initial perimeter wont stick and often gets dragged about causing tangles.

I'm in the process of writing my own Web Interface for the ormerod which will be hosted on my own web server (raspberry pi)

Matt

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Limited Edition Red RS Ormerod 1 #144 of 200 - RRP 1.09fw
iamburnys Ormerod Upgrades Github
Follow me on ThingiVerse My Designs

Hi Matt,

I'm just preparing a design change proposal with a printed part which will help against fan backwash warping.

It will look like this:



designed with OpenSCAD



More to come...

Markus

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XBee & electronics blog: [lookmanowire.blogspot.com]

Very nice Markus, I guess we would need 2 x longer cap head screws for that? I have already had to drill out the two lower screw holes on my fan so the cap heads sit slightly countersunk therefore giving slightly more thread to attach the ally block.

I roughly sketched this in tinkercad to clip over the fan, however support is an issue i need to resolve first!




Matt

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Limited Edition Red RS Ormerod 1 #144 of 200 - RRP 1.09fw
iamburnys Ormerod Upgrades Github
Follow me on ThingiVerse My Designs

Hi Matt,

no the printed part will be snapped-on into the lower cap head screws and the upper (not used) screwholes and then additionaly secured with kapton tape. It will only protrude 1.2mm from the fan, so that no modification of the Duet board mounting is necessary.

I will provide thermal images of the different heat distribution states with fan on/ off/ with new printed part. I also printed a test part with a long y-axis length where fan backwash is most disturbing.

Markus

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XBee & electronics blog: [lookmanowire.blogspot.com]

Hi Markus,

Why not put countersunk screw holes in the part, so that the existing cap screws holding the fan can be replaced by slightly longer countersunk ones, to hold everything in place?

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Hi dc42,

the part is only 1.2mm in depth so countersunk screws would protrude from the part. That would be counterproductive to the space available between fan and Duet board mounting that remains when the X-axis is homing.

Markus

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XBee & electronics blog: [lookmanowire.blogspot.com]

Quote
markbee
Hi dc42,

the part is only 1.2mm in depth so countersunk screws would protrude from the part. That would be counterproductive to the space available between fan and Duet board mounting that remains when the X-axis is homing.

Markus

Given that my fan is currently attached using cap head screws that sit on top of the fan, and this gives 4mm clearance between the head and the electronics box, surely csk screws would not be any deeper? In any case, I could always countersink the fan holes slightly.

btw one of the tricks I learned when fitting the electronics box to the y-extrusion is to rotate the rightmost T-nut and then slide the box as far towards the motor as possible.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Hi All

May I suggest this thread has gone substantially off topic I only found this important work by accident. Fabulous work is being done on the backwash problem but the thread is about cheap filament. If its ok with everyone I will start a new thread on Fan backwash.

Rory