Aluminium part for Ormerod

Hi All, I have had some problem with the X axis S shape and decided to manufacture the X-axis plate and X- rib in 5 mm aluminum I think this will improve the accuracy allot. I did a redesigned Y-axis bed as well but I think I have over done it and I would appreciate some input on this.
The problem with the bed is that the leveling has to be redone to often due to the instability of the mdf and this is mainly in the back corner.
I use three points when I do leveling and I have springs between to make it easier.
The designed I made is more or less a copy of the original design but I have done the bed “floating on the front bearing so I don’t have to think about if the shafts are parallel or not, the idea was to just use a rubber band to hold it down on the front bearing.

I think this could be done with only the top piece and some new printed parts instead, that would make it much easier to manufacture cause I don’t have mill and drill and tap any piece, any ideas?

/Joar Ormerod #25

Looks like a nice design!

To make printed bed .. here is an idea. Create a shallow groove in the top and bottom of each beam of the part ( e.g. the long part of the groove cross section horizontal for a part designed for vertical loads), then wet up some Carbon tow and lay it in the groove to make an I - beam ( with the plastic part as the web) Use epoxy from e.g boatbuilders chanders etc. The only issue is I dont know how well epoxy sticks to PLA , but if that could be solved, the same technique could be used for X axis parts too...

EDIT : To get round screw holes etc.. widen the part at that point and gently curve the groove each side of the hole

EDIT: A slightle cleaner alternative is carbon strip, if the part was redesigned for straight pices of reinforcement.

regards
Andy

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/08/2014 05:14AM by kwikius.

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Ormerod #318
www.zoomworks.org - Free and Open Source Stuff

I have the same problem with the MDF bed sagging substantially in both back corners. I am planning to remake it in 3mm alu plate in a trapezoidal shape, leaving out the front corners, but your design looks nicer and might be lighter.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

@Joar107, looks good! I might need the same.......
Only suggestion is the slots in the X arm for the extruder feeds. We are all using the centre slot, BUT if you try using the slot nearest the vertical arm the feed does not fit, you cannot perform the rotate of the feeder to fit the slot due to the bearing mount on the z axis.
Also the slots are too close when you have 3 extruders (my rough test) to allow insertion and removal except in sequence from the Z axis end.

Easy cure is not to have the lip on the slots (mine are gradually breaking off!) to allow vertical insertion, or space out the slots!

What software did you use to produce your designs?

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Ormerod #007 (shaken but not stirred!)

Hi Joar107,
Similarly my bed heater is unsatisfactory. Its unstable floppy and generally bad.
Your design looks good! I may also make a new top aluminium plate and fold the edges up (or down) to inrease stiffness.

Dennis

Quote
Treth
@Joar107, looks good! I might need the same.......
Only suggestion is the slots in the X arm for the extruder feeds. We are all using the centre slot, BUT if you try using the slot nearest the vertical arm the feed does not fit, you cannot perform the rotate of the feeder to fit the slot due to the bearing mount on the z axis.

Has anyone tried this using the new adjustable design for the z-bearing mount, in case it has already been fixed? I suspect not, because the mounting screw is so close. A fix might be to change the extruder mount printed part to raise the motor a little.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
Treth
@Joar107, looks good! I might need the same.......
Only suggestion is the slots in the X arm for the extruder feeds. We are all using the centre slot, BUT if you try using the slot nearest the vertical arm the feed does not fit, you cannot perform the rotate of the feeder to fit the slot due to the bearing mount on the z axis.
Also the slots are too close when you have 3 extruders (my rough test) to allow insertion and removal except in sequence from the Z axis end.

Easy cure is not to have the lip on the slots (mine are gradually breaking off!) to allow vertical insertion, or space out the slots!

What software did you use to produce your designs?

I will move it the slot out a couple of mm that will help, actually I am using the inner slot to have less stress on the x-axis. It might be better to set a second "x" axis that doesn't move then it could be possible to ad 5 without putting any weight on Z.
I using Solidworks unfourtunately I havent updated to 2014 and that is what RepRapPro is using.
/Joar #25

I can force the extruder into the first slot - it isn't that tight - and have an adjustable z-runner-mount fitted.

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

Nice modeling!

Move the y-axis-cross-rib over on the other side of the y-rod, mount the y-bearing-clamps from the other side? - better support for the corners and a cleaner triangle design, the part of cross rib that activates the micro switch could be printed out as a part of the bearing clamp

Btw, I just noticed the varying downward force of the filament tube on the printer head as i moves along the x-axis, this will not turn out well with 3 tubes me think

Erik

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/08/2014 03:48PM by ormerod168.

Hi All

There are many ways to solve a problem and I too am working on an aluminium bed support. As a prototype only I have folded 3mm ali to form the bearing mounts and added angle pieces to tie the verticals together. It seems strong and light but I am intending to add a few extra mm of height in order to continue the stiffness to the edge of the bed. When It is complete I will weigh it as a comparison to the MDF.

Rory

Quote
dc42
I have the same problem with the MDF bed sagging substantially in both back corners. I am planning to remake it in 3mm alu plate in a trapezoidal shape, leaving out the front corners, but your design looks nicer and might be lighter.

Hi DC42,

I tried a lot of MDF material in my previous experiments and proof that MDF can't be use for my previous projects . It will out of shape very fast, especially a lot of warm up and cool down cycle .3D printers are precise equipments, need more suitable material for the job. I did mentioned in earlier post . really need to think of a solution to solve this . I think I need to spend more $ on custom upgraded parts to get Ormerod running stable.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/08/2014 07:28PM by tru168.

I agree with you
I need more suitable material for the job!
This morning I also discovered that... lost a piece of plexiglass...
With these materials I'm losing pieces before I can print.

Hi Ormerod187,

there is a new printed part to circumvent the poor design of the x-axis rib and the nut trap - it's the z-nut-trap.


Markus

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XBee & electronics blog: [lookmanowire.blogspot.com]

I will print it as soon as I can print again
Thanks

I have made some changes to the bed, now it is only 1 laser part, 5 mm thick and the width of the ribs is 6mm. As Erik suggested I have printed the tab for the end stop. Let me know what you think I am eager to get this in production

/Joar#25

Quote
Joar107
I have made some changes to the bed, now it is only 1 laser part, 5 mm thick and the width of the ribs is 6mm. As Erik suggested I have printed the tab for the end stop. Let me know what you think I am eager to get this in production

/Joar#25

Maybe thicken the part where the holes are so total material area in cross section is uniform at section through holes and add some material at joints ( radiused in) ?

regards
Andy

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Ormerod #318
www.zoomworks.org - Free and Open Source Stuff

Quote
kwikius

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Joar107
I have made some changes to the bed, now it is only 1 laser part, 5 mm thick and the width of the ribs is 6mm. As Erik suggested I have printed the tab for the end stop. Let me know what you think I am eager to get this in production

/Joar#25

Maybe thicken the part where the holes are so total material area in cross section is uniform at section through holes and add some material at joints ( radiused in) ?

regards
Andy

Agree looks much better now!
/Joar #25

Some more design for the belt fixation.....
/Joar #25

With your help we would reach large volumes ..
more on fixing belt?

if you can help .... Imagine a bullet that has to start .... release the load on the two bearings?
the most we can be fast more things we can do even more precisely

Quote
Ormerod187
if you can help .... Imagine a bullet that has to start .... release the load on the two bearings?
the most we can be fast more things we can do even more precisely

I have printed the design I had in my last post seems good, will not be able to try it until I have made the laser cutted bed....

/Joar #25

Finally had time to manufacture new x-axis and bed in aluminum

I have prepared for direct drive from motor anyone that have tried it yet?

/Joar

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/28/2014 06:44AM by Joar107.

I want one!

How will you be attaching the front bearing to the bed frame?

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42
I want one!

me too!

Dario

I have now upgraded my machine and it works perfect mechanicaly, now I have to catch up with all great work that has been done with firmware and web development.
@dc42 here is the front support.
/Joar

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/03/2014 04:08AM by Joar107.

No twisting x-axis = no variating in nozzle hight, glass again flat (the bulged glass illusion), bed stable as it should be, 3 point bed spring adjustment - well done, bravo!

Erik

Quote
ormerod168
No twisting x-axis = no variating in nozzle hight, glass again flat (the bulged glass illusion), bed stable as it should be, 3 point bed spring adjustment - well done, bravo!

Erik

Bulging glass is not entirely an illusion. If it were, then you would get the same amount of "bulging" at all y-axis positions. I get more at Y=100 than I do at Y=0 or Y=190.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42

Quote
ormerod168
No twisting x-axis = no variating in nozzle hight, glass again flat (the bulged glass illusion), bed stable as it should be, 3 point bed spring adjustment - well done, bravo!

Erik

Bulging glass is not entirely an illusion. If it were, then you would get the same amount of "bulging" at all y-axis positions. I get more at Y=100 than I do at Y=0 or Y=190.

You may be right, I only have measured at Y=100, have no aluminum plate to bend the glass any more, seems to me it prints fine without - so took it for granted that it would be the same amount across the bed, could it be the heat that makes the glass bulge, more heat loss at the upside? - must do another test

On another note, many thanks for all the hard work you do around here, without you and the help and ideas of many others I think a lot of us had given up long time ago and send it all back

Erik

What thickness of glass and type are you recommending to replace the aluminium /glass bed. A trade off of rigidity and weight
John