bed level setting -
February 08, 2014 06:41AM
Hi,

I noticed that I need to setup bed level or setbed file every 3 to 4 days, if I ignore and skip the leveling setup, I can't print properly, either one side too low, or one side of the bed grinding my print head.after that I need to print ormaxis.g again. for this few weeks, I spent more time setting up than printing. I have no time to re-design the bed, MDF board just warp all the time in our humid Asia country. anyone of you guys having the same problem please?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/08/2014 07:21AM by tru168.
Re: bed level setting -
February 08, 2014 07:26AM
You are not alone. See [forums.reprap.org] and the post immediately after it. There are also posts in other threads describing alternative bed support solutions.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/08/2014 07:28AM by dc42.



Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
Re: bed level setting -
February 08, 2014 07:49AM
Thanks DC42 for reply.
Yeah, I saw those modification method, especially 100% hand tooled aluminium looks like laser cut ! I'll try to build one. any printed version exist yet?
Re: bed level setting -
February 08, 2014 09:55AM
Another thread that may be of interest to you is [forums.reprap.org]. However, if you are looking for an easy solution, then I think reinforcing the mdf bed with carbon fibre square tube is probably the way to go.



Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
Re: bed level setting -
February 08, 2014 05:21PM
tru168

I have removed the aluminum heat spreader, the glass now rest on the PCB Heatbed , I don't find (so far at least) that the heat spreader is doing any difference

A quick and dirty fix for your warping bed could be to move the aluminum plate down and attach it to the bed as a support, you will have to make a cut-out for the thermistor connector

Erik
Re: bed level setting -
February 08, 2014 05:51PM
Well I am in the middle of making a 3mm aluminium sheet to replace the mdf version, this is taking longer than I thought with also being ill, and not having electrical tools to do all the cutting I have had to do all this by hand with the odd drill here and there to get the junior haxsaw blade in and a hell of a lot of filing of the metal.

I am also thinking of replacing the y-axis-rib and y-axis-cross rib with aluminium versions, but doing this by hand using a drill, junior haxsaw blade and loads of filing may be more than its worth, but we will see.

Paul


RS Ormerod No 436
Re: bed level setting -
February 08, 2014 06:03PM
The bed problem is hard to solve. That's why I may do a complete redesign of the Y axis. I will probably add another aluminium extrusion and use a traditional Y carriage like this.

If the acrylic side plates are replaced by printed parts, they even become self-replicating.

I'm also thinking about rolling the bed in the aluminium extrution using V-wheels like these guys do.

Already experimenting, maybe I will "mendel" my Ormerod smiling smiley



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/08/2014 06:21PM by adsoftware.
Re: bed level setting -
February 08, 2014 08:00PM
Quote
TMD_RS436
Well I am in the middle of making a 3mm aluminium sheet to replace the mdf version...
Paul

..and you will have to attach that to the the y-axis-rib and y-axis-cross rib - if you think about it (and if we for the sake of argument say the heat spreader is not needed) what's the difference between what you are trying to achieve compared and the Q & D fix?...beside a lot of added work of drilling holes and the cost of the extra aluminum?

The sagging corners of the mdf bed will hold the aluminum down and fixed on the 3 point T foundation of the supporting ribs, the corner of the mdf will arrest the aluminum in the horizontal direction

Disclamer: I could be talking bullocks, if that's the case please forgive me, it's rather late and my brain is tired, have a late night print at work and cannot leave the printer as it is one of the precious "limited editions" aka no usb power, dead SD-card etc. and I have to wait for the print to finish so I can get my laptop disconnected and get home............Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Erik
Re: bed level setting -
February 08, 2014 09:41PM
Good Idea to use original aluminium plate as bottom plate. how I wish RRP will come out with pre-punched aluminium plate for everyone, but seems unlikely.
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