Anyone interested in a modulated IR sensor + fan control + illumination board?

I will recheck all the connections but my meter won't go down to 0.1ohm

If no luck probably easiest to try the board exchange, thanks.

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Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

I've checked and wiggled all the cables, I think it might have been a dodgy connection at the hot end thermistor where the two push in joints are, might solder these up some time.

Probably disturbed them when fitting the board last week.

Just made a good print and fan worked as normal again.

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Hi Guys

Finally getting round to commissioning and everything going well, x-axis homed fine started to head down to do z-axis homing and the sensor pad add on to allow for x-axis homing hits the z-axis motor spindle. If I put a lean on it to clear this it then drives into the teeth of the gears before the head is 2-3mm from the bed.

Any ideas what I am doing wrong here?

Cheers,
Dan.

Hi Dan, which add on do you have? If you could send a picture or a link that would help us help you....
How close to the table did the bottom of your probe get before you had problems?
I know someone did an add on arm instead of using the modified X-motor mount, but who it was escapes me now.... It was a nice looking thing....

To get printing, you can remove the arm, move the X carriage over to roughly where it would be when homed. Then issue G92 X0 to set that position as the homed position....
G92 Z0 sets the Z zero point if you wanted to do it manualy

Pictures are always good when you have a problem.... Try and send us a couple so we can help easier.

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Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
I won't see comments in threads, as I move around to much.
Working Link to Big Blue 360 Complete

Big Blue now accepts ALL of DC42's Probe Kits......
This has been a total revamp of the Zero BackWash Fan-Duct...
Cooling air is adjustable using the Exhaust Pipe.
Leave the Exhaust pipe open for very low cooling air.... Blank it off for the maximum... Use the Metering plates (available in the next few days) to adjust the flow to how you like it.

Now for the supprise.... Big Blue has GROWN..... It's 10mm taller this week than it was last week..... LoL
But I won't say why JUST yet..... And it's not due to the Rain either....



Kim

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Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
I won't see comments in threads, as I move around to much.
Working Link to Big Blue 360 Complete

Hi FalseIdle
Would the attached stl file solve your problem?

This is a modified version to make it thicker and with a cut-out underneath to allow for the motor spindle.

I also lowered my hot end by using a couple of washers on the hot end mounting bolts, in between the hot end mount and the heat block insulator.

hope that helps
Paul

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appjaws - Core XYUV Duet Ethernet Duex5
firmware 3.1.1 Web Interface 3.1.1
Ormerod 1-converted to laser engraver, Duet wifi
OpenSCAD version 2020.07
slic3r-1.3.0, Simplify3D 4.1.2, Cura-4.4.1

I designed the original version of that, and I'm a bit puzzled to be honest. On my unit nothing comes close to fouling it! I wonder what is different.

@Kim good point I will take some photos once back home, I was in front of it as I typed the post as well just did not occur to me.

I used Steve's add on plate and the one piece duct.

@Paul That does look like it may do the trick, when I bent the one I currently a little have to miss the spindle I still grounded out on the gears before the hot end reached the bed. Might print this and raise the bed another nut in hight. Thank you for sharing.

@Steve Firstly thank you for designing this add on and sharing it here, I was not looking forward to reprinting a large integral part of the machine and dismantle the x-axis mount to add the extra tab and this is such an elegant solution. I was sure I was doing something wrong as it hits so far short of the bed for me and clearly did not cause yourself or others the issue. If I post pictures later I would be interested if you would do the same as I am mainly curious why we have ended up with such different heights. I guess its the hot end hight relative to the x-axis mount? Or the bed hight and why is this so different?

Also thanks to all for the responses.

Dan.

Dan
I had the same problem when I changed my nozzle mount, the nozzle was too low, using my old mount I used 4 washers on each bolt which had the effect of raising the nozzle.
Now with my modified version of stevelup's excellent design of the sensor pad I only use 1 washer on each bolt..

So my advise would be to put 4 washers on each bolt to raise the nozzle and you probably will not need the my modified sensor pad and can still use stevelup's original.

hope that helps
Paul

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appjaws - Core XYUV Duet Ethernet Duex5
firmware 3.1.1 Web Interface 3.1.1
Ormerod 1-converted to laser engraver, Duet wifi
OpenSCAD version 2020.07
slic3r-1.3.0, Simplify3D 4.1.2, Cura-4.4.1

Quote
FalseIdle
@Steve Firstly thank you for designing this add on and sharing it here, I was not looking forward to reprinting a large integral part of the machine and dismantle the x-axis mount to add the extra tab and this is such an elegant solution. I was sure I was doing something wrong as it hits so far short of the bed for me and clearly did not cause yourself or others the issue. If I post pictures later I would be interested if you would do the same as I am mainly curious why we have ended up with such different heights. I guess its the hot end hight relative to the x-axis mount? Or the bed hight and why is this so different?

I think I have an explanation...

My print head bottoms out on the glass long before the tab hits the spindle on the Z-axis motor... But I'm using the new metal aluminium base plate and have 20mm screws which I use for levelling. Therefore my bed is probably higher than yours. It's at least 5mm higher than it used to be.

The modified part with the notch should solve your problem.

I am about to run out of parts for making more sensor boards. To avoid paying excess carriage costs or ending up with excess inventory, I need to have some idea of what Ormerod users may want before I order more components. The current situation is:

- I have 5 fully populated boards that I can ship as kit 4+ or kit 5. I have an expression of interest for one of them, and I want to keep another 2 in the short term in case any of my existing customers needs a replacement board. So I really have only 2 free at present. It is not worth me having more of them made unless I can sell another 50, which at present seems unlikely.

- I have another 2 boards already populated as kit 3.

- I have a further 8 boards that I can populate as kit 2 or kit 3 if I purchase the necessary components. It is not worth me populating them as kit 4 or 5 because it takes too long to place the SMD components by hand.

So I plan to place a final order for components about a week from now, or sooner if I get enough orders. If anyone wants to order one of the remaining boards, now is the time to do it!

In case anyone has been following the threads on capacitive and inductive sensing, this is where I am at present:

- Capacitive sensing works reasonably well for me, but it is somewhat temperature sensitive, although probably less so than ultrasonic sensing. It has the advantage that is is easy to recalibrate (just put the head at Z=0 manually and touch the sense plate 3 times). With better PCB design, it could be made more stable, but I suspect not as stable as I would like. It has low component costs because it does not require a transducer. However, assembly is somewhat complicated by the need to have a horizontal sense plate.

- I have not tried inductive sensing yet. I can find no European distributors of the ferrite and coil former I have identified as being suitable, so I will have to order them from the USA. The labour involved in hand-winding a coil would make it less easy to mass-produce. However, it suspect it will be be more stable than capacitive sensing.

- Both capacitive and inductive sensing work by sensing the heat spreader below the glass. So the heat spreader needs to be both present (i.e. not re-purposed as reinforcement for the MDF bed) and flat.

If there is enough interest, I will work on inductive sensing, with a view to producing a board that is a drop-in replacement for the ones I am currently shipping. However, I suspect that the board I have already shipped works well enough for most users, so spending money on further improvements may be hard to justify.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Interest here please in a Kit 5.

Thanks BrayneG. Please see [forums.reprap.org] for prices, then send me your location and PayPal email address via PM. I will be ordering a new batch of components on Monday afternoon or Tuesday morning, and I expect to make up and dispatch the boards on Wednesday.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Are these still available?

I just finished assembling my Ormerod today and have yet to do my first print, but this sounds like a great idea.

I am in Sydney Australia.

Rob.

Hi Rob, all I have left at the moment is one Kit 3 board. I may make up a few more Kit 4+/Kit 5 in late May if I get enough interest, but numbers will be limited to about 6 because I am running out of PCBs. Shipping to Australia is no problem.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I'd be interested in a kit 5 if you have any available.

DaveB, I'll add you to the list for if/when I make any more.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I just got my "kit 5" sensor board, and something slightly confused me: The small ceramic capacitor included with the kit that is supposed to be in parallel with the transducer: Does it matter at all if to "signal quality" if it is installed close to the transducer, or close to the circuit board connector? Is the signal high enough frequency for that to matter at all?

Also, this capacitor isn't mentioned in the assembly instructions, I just found it by browsing through this thread. Would make life easier for future customers if that was clarified a bit.

Hi jstk,

No it doesn't matter where you put. On the ready-soldered boards, I put it on the SMD side of the board, across the pins of the transducer connector. It used to be mentioned in the assembly instructions, but that bit appears to have been deleted - thanks for pointing this out. I'll put it back.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Hello,

I am a new user Ormerod.
I live in France.
I start 3D printing and I discover this exciting world.

Congratulations and thank you for all that you bring to the RepRap community.

I am interested in the evolution of the Ormerod your kit: modulated fan control sensor + IR + illumition board
Do you have this kit available now?
Please send me the process to buy: where to order, new price with shipping cost..

I use the 058d firmware and  the 0.72 web interface.
For now, I do not have no problems, but I am a beginner in 3D printing and I have everything to learn ... to succeed...

thank you.

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Another RS Ormerod user in France

firmware 0.58d-dc42
interface 0.72

Hi titiliFr31, thanks for enquiring. Currently all I have left is one kit 3 board (IR + lighting, no fan control or ultrasonic). I can quite easily make up a few more kit 2 and 3 boards, although I have only about 8 PCBs left. I may turn a few of them into kit 4 or 5 boards next month, but I am also looking at other sorts of sensor that are less temperature-sensitive than ultrasonic, and if I get one of those working well then I will make new boards based on that.

For prices, see [forums.reprap.org]. To order, send me a PM with what you wan to order and your PayPal email address.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Dear DC42

THANK YOU !
For making these sensorbords (but not only), assisting me when I cant manage by my self etc etc.

I am slow, very slow, but I finally got to install the Sensorboard (1. series) version 5 with all the bells and whistles.
firstly I got it up and running with the differential IR sensor, besides working pretty good, somehow my environment is not good for the IR, so I got fantasitc bed leveling (the 4 point compensation), witch is very neet , but I still had to set Z by hand.
So now I have also managed (with forum help) to get the Ultrasonic sensor to work (using IR only for X-axis) and that is a game-changer, I am still messing with the values but repeatable automatic height measures, 5 point bed leveling/compensation. This will make it possible for other people in the office to print alone.

Only question, why did I not install this right away ?



For the courius, the attached image shows the Ormerod (Duet Firmware
0.78r-dc42, reprap.htm 1.02) with:

• DC42's Sensorboard on 1piece fanmount (paper deflector)
• Davek0974's fantasitc alu x-rib and bed
• Iamburny's Z-gears

SlinBin, thanks for your feedback! I am glad it is working well for you.

The ultrasonic height sensing turned out to be more temperature-sensitive than I would have liked, and if you use it when the bed is hot then this also makes it sensitive to draughts (because a cool draught will change the reading a little). So you may get best results if you use it with the bed cold - and as you have DaveK's bed support, the bed shouldn't move much when you heat it up. Alternatively, if you use it with the bed hot, then shield the printer from draughts, and move the four corner bed levelling points in from the corners a little, so that the air above them is at the same temperature as the air above the centre of the bed.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I've read loads of threads but struggled to find much on commissioning kit 5.
When commissioning kit 5 my fan stays on and doesn't switch off when unplugging the thermistor. (checked continuity of white wire)
Also. can anyone confirm the duet connector positions for the white and blue wires.
The commissioning info says put the white directly above the blue (9 from the right)
Thanks
Jon

Hi Jon, if you are using 0.78 series firmware then the Duet pin numbers for the white and blue wires are different. See the diagram in [forums.reprap.org] for the correct connections.

The fan is supposed to be on when the thermistor is disconnected. It should be off if the thermistor is connected but between about 5C and 35C. If the fan is staying on in this temperature range, please let me know what the Duet is reporting for the hot end temperature.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Thanks for getting back David.
That's the thread I looked at for the alternative connector position which brought my x home back into play and enabled me to print a snowman.

My duet via Arduino displays
ok T:17.4 B 21.7 when I input M105
web is pretty much the same.
fan still on.

Jon, it could be that you have an out of tolerance board. I'll contact you via PM to organise a replacement.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Is it still possible to order? I like to buy KIT 5 if possible, please let me know?!

BR
Micael

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/23/2014 03:18AM by moremetall.

Hi Micael, the board I am now selling is the differential IR board. It uses two infrared beams offset from each other and a 3-way modulation technique to detect the surface of the bed. For more details and ordering information, see [forums.reprap.org]. The fitting instructions are at [miscsolutions.wordpress.com]. I currently have single-nozzle boards available, but no dual-nozzle boards until I get a few more orders for them.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I'm interested in a fully soldered board if you still have one available.