Printing Wood!!!

Anybody tried this product.
[www.creativetools.se]
This could be very useful. A bit pricey at £22 for .25Kg but for that special job could be great
John

This is another i'd like to try apparently it even smells like wood!, not so pricey either.

[colorfabb.com]



Matt

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/21/2014 05:41AM by iamburny.

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Hi John,

I did some test with LAYWOO-D3 and it works w/o problems. You have to watch the temperature - low temperature means brighter, higher temperature darker wood. In any case you have to look a the extrusion parameters.
I'm currently building an DIY extruder and hope to produce the material much cheaper this way.

Markus

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XBee & electronics blog: [lookmanowire.blogspot.com]

Just what I wood (he) need to make my EUR Pallet prints look more natural, btw, pallets is great for bridge-building tests

EUR Pallets in scale 1:10, 1:20, 1:40, 1:80 (and a Chep Pallet in between)





Erik

Quote
ormerod168
Just what I wood (he) need to make my EUR Pallet prints look more natural, btw, pallets is great for bridge-building tests

EUR Pallets in scale 1:10, 1:20, 1:40, 1:80 (and a Chep Pallet in between)

[attachment 27227 EUR-Pallet1.jpg]

[attachment 27228 EUR-Pallet2.jpg]

Erik

very nice! would you be able to show the underside of the prints, where the bridge was laid? I am curious to see how it looks.

Very creative.

manually change the G-files in order to change the extruder temperature which manipulates the color :-)

THIS LOOK AMAZING!
in even more of a hurry to get me ormerod working now! >.<

Quote
ormerod168
Just what I wood (he) need to make my EUR Pallet prints look more natural, btw, pallets is great for bridge-building tests
EUR Pallets in scale 1:10, 1:20, 1:40, 1:80 (and a Chep Pallet in between)
Erik

yes please, how do you print those bridges?

Quote
arnaud31
..very nice! would you be able to show the underside of the prints, where the bridge was laid? I am curious to see how it looks.

The pallets was printed upside down, so all the pictures is as seen from underneath as printed - taking photos is really not my thing, I'm a "auto settings using - no time to read documentation man", but I think these pictures came out rather nicely, the problem with macro photography is the lens always seems to get in the way of the lighting from the flash, the flash should be placed around the lens rather than on top me think - but then I got the bright (!) idea of taking the pictures inside a flat white box

I placed a 0.177 (4.5mm) diabole airgun pellet to set the scale












Edit: added picture

Erik

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/22/2014 08:10PM by ormerod168.

That really is quite impressive bridging, in fact the largest palette seems to have smoother undersides that the smallest in one of the photos! Do you turn the Ormerod upside down to print these?

Ray

Quote
SlinBin
yes please, how do you print those bridges?

Nothing to it at all - anyone can do it - anyone! - how do I know? - because I'm anyone, I don't know anything about 3-D printing whatsoever and yet I printed this thing, just use your sense of logic, surely you will have to get your extrusion right, you don't wan't to extrude too much or too little, experiment, get it right and watch that spider do it's thing, it's quite fascinating...

Erik

Hi Erik, I like the pallets. Have you the stl files? I could do with making some pallets to scatter around my ON30 layout.

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Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
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Quote
KimBrown
Hi Erik, I like the pallets. Have you the stl files? I could do with making some pallets to scatter around my ON30 layout.

Hi Kim, here's the file, just scale it in slic3er:

[www.thingiverse.com]

Here's another one I tried to print, did no go so well, memo to myself: look at the stI before printing, and do not print pallet standing on end he he...

[www.thingiverse.com]

Erik

Thanks Erik, you know it shows how Observant I am when I'm tired.... I never noticed the scale in Slic3r till you said.
I can see me making allot of pallets soon.....
I'd like to use that wood filament, but I think the price will cut me out for the moment...
In any case. The printer is now sat waiting for me in the car, as I got that fed up with the floppy table, and wandering Z axis.
BUT when I get home on Wednesday I'll start correcting that in a big way....
Only two more days at work.....

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Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
I won't see comments in threads, as I move around to much.
Working Link to Big Blue 360 Complete

That colorFabb woodfill is actually quite different than laywood. It doesn't do the color changing thing and has better mechanical properties. So, depending on what your goal is with the material, it may be better or worse.
It also bridges amazingly well.
Here is my initial review on it from a few months back. [www.printedsolid.com]
Since that time, I've gotten a better handle on printing it without nozzle clogs. I was running it at too small layer thicknesses and was leaving the filament hot in the nozzle. Now I flush it with some PLA after every print and I'm good.
If you happen to be reading this from the US and just want to try a little bit without spending the $$ for a full spool, we've got sample packs at printedsolid.com in 3mm and 1.75 for $12 with free shipping.

Looks very interesting. Is there a particular grain direction? Or are the fibres random?

I'm thinking that if filaments with a grain ( not sure of the correct term-- fibrous filaments?) are introduced then there will have to be new software so that you can specify more precisely how you want the grain to run!

regards
Andy

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Ormerod #318
www.zoomworks.org - Free and Open Source Stuff

Quote
markbee
I did some test with LAYWOO-D3 and it works w/o problems.
Markus

@markbee Hi! what nozzle size are you using with laywood-D3? did you had any clogging issue due to carbonisation of the wood?
Mine is from FormFutura. I did not printed it yet, because I have a 0.35 nozzle and I feel a little bit at risk...

thank you in advance!

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