Replacement Alu bed for those of us with no tools and/or time and/or confidence

I'd like one please. PayPal is fine with me.

Hi Dave

If you are still taking requests I would love to get one of these. Paypal perfect for payment.

Thanks,
Dan.

Yes of course, will be placing the order Monday if all is ok.

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Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

I'll have one please

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Regards

Chris H

Nice work @Davek0974 - kudos for picking up the idea and running with it - this is exactly what I had in mind when I posted it - you've got to love this community haven't you?

Quote
MrCrispi
Nice work @Davek0974 - kudos for picking up the idea and running with it - this is exactly what I had in mind when I posted it - you've got to love this community haven't you?

Definitely MrCrispi - it's amazing how much time and effort people put into things then pass on the results for nothing, yourself included,

Ray

It's what a good community is all about, this forum, and the machines it supports really are amazing

It's a pleasure doing stuff when you get so much in return.

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Great initiative.
Have you thought to do the corner holes at the guideline size for hand tapping?

I'm keen to get one.
I'm in Israel but have a shipping forwarding option to get things here more cheaply.

Have you thought of setting up an account on emakershop.com or something similar to facilitate something more trackable than all of us commenting on the forum?

oh, and paypal is great for me too

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/08/2014 03:54AM by frank_bee.

For a small consideration, I could drill and tap the corner holes to 3mm, if that's what everyone wants in the corners

I have my own engineering shop in a double garage, but have no laser or water jet of course, just lathes, mills and tools by the ton.

Tapping the holes out would not take me too long to do.

Would that be a help???


I will look into emakershop as I have not heard of it until now, thanks.

Edit, signed up for an emakershop account, looks useful.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/08/2014 04:16AM by Davek0974.

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Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
frank_bee
...Have you thought to do the corner holes at the guideline size for hand tapping?...

I think you will have to put nuts on both sides of the alu anyway, you will need at least two steady bolts to carry the weight of the upper bed

Erik

Quote
ormerod168

Quote
frank_bee
...Have you thought to do the corner holes at the guideline size for hand tapping?...

I think you will have to put nuts on both sides of the alu anyway, you will need at least two steady bolts to carry the weight of the upper bed

Erik

Ok, so how about just make them 3mm clearance holes, quicker and easier, not laser cut though, drilled, it's more accurate at that size.

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
Davek0974
Ok, so how about just make them 3mm clearance holes, quicker and easier, not laser cut though, drilled, it's more accurate at that size.

That was my point, quicker and easier for you (if you all agree that tapping would not be very useful that is - it's just IMHO)

Erik

It would certainly last longer, 3mm thread into 3mm aluminium is ok from an engagement POV but strength wise it's pretty weak.

If no other ideas come forward, the holes will all be 3mm clearance drilled by me.

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Ill take one.

Hi,
I will take one as well if its not too late.

Alan

Thanks all for the encouraging response, I'll get the order in Monday morning.

This will be for a bed with 3mm drilled clearance holes at the mount points, not tapped as suggested earlier.

Does any one need some M3x20 cap head screws as well??

These should be long enough to give adjustment and allow for locking nuts underneath.

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

hi, if its not too late i'll have one please.

Ben

I would not say "no" to bolts, as I am run out..

I'll have one as well please.

Thanks very much for all the effort that's being put in!

Cheers

Stu

Hi,
I'm hoping that I'm not too late as you said you'd put the order in on Monday, can you put me down for one as well, pretty please.

On an operational side of things, would replacing this part require running through the axis compensation again? Not that its a problem, just currious.

Thanks.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/09/2014 10:19AM by cannibalistic_cow.

One please, too - if not to late

And one for me please.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I'm wondering if instead of the rectangular cuts for the current vertical mdf parts, we can't only make screw holes that allow to fix the bed to bearings by using 2 PLA printed parts.
In this way we can definitively eliminate all the parts in MDF.

Roberto

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RS Ormerod #117

Can I get in on this too please? Happy with paypal

Quote
cannibalistic_cow
Hi,
I'm hoping that I'm not too late as you said you'd put the order in on Monday, can you put me down for one as well, pretty please.

On an operational side of things, would replacing this part require running through the axis compensation again? Not that its a problem, just currious.

Thanks.

As in running ormaxis again?

If so probably not as the bed should have been pretty square when it was run before and square when the new part is finished.

But on the other hand, why not, it's an hour or so just to run the three legged part only so go for it

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
gammasistemi
I'm wondering if instead of the rectangular cuts for the current vertical mdf parts, we can't only make screw holes that allow to fix the bed to bearings by using 2 PLA printed parts.
In this way we can definitively eliminate all the parts in MDF.

Roberto

Well it could easily be done, but in my view, the wood parts that are left are vertically mounted which is the strongest and most stable direction, the bed mount on the other hand was thinner and horizontally mounted and stressed, both bad ideas.

You could replace the remaining parts later easily.

Of course, if wanted, I could get them laser cut, any interest in that idea?
That would be a direct swap out, I could factor in some lightening holes to reduce the weight increase to a minimum, should work well and that would remove the last of the dubious wood content.

Any good?

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
Davek0974

Quote
cannibalistic_cow
Hi,
I'm hoping that I'm not too late as you said you'd put the order in on Monday, can you put me down for one as well, pretty please.

On an operational side of things, would replacing this part require running through the axis compensation again? Not that its a problem, just currious.

Thanks.

As in running ormaxis again?

If so probably not as the bed should have been pretty square when it was run before and square when the new part is finished.

But on the other hand, why not, it's an hour or so just to run the three legged part only so go for it

the print of, and the adjustment made from ormeaxis is to compensate for the angular error XYZ, a new bed will not change that, the new bed will be adjusted according to that, so the new bed from this tread will be a quick and easy fix for those sagging corners, adjusting the bed all the time is pain and a total waste of printing time

BTW, for the outer corner I would prefer to mount the bolt from underneath and tighten a nut against the new bed for easy spring adjustment of the bed with one nut spanner only, the two inner corner should be a once-off adjustment

Erik

Quote
ormerod168

Quote
Davek0974

Quote
cannibalistic_cow
Hi,
I'm hoping that I'm not too late as you said you'd put the order in on Monday, can you put me down for one as well, pretty please.

On an operational side of things, would replacing this part require running through the axis compensation again? Not that its a problem, just currious.

Thanks.

As in running ormaxis again?

If so probably not as the bed should have been pretty square when it was run before and square when the new part is finished.

But on the other hand, why not, it's an hour or so just to run the three legged part only so go for it

the print of, and the adjustment made from ormeaxis is to compensate for the angular error XYZ, a new bed will not change that, the new bed will be adjusted according to that, so the new bed from this tread will be a quick and easy fix for those sagging corners, adjusting the bed all the time is pain and a total waste of printing time

BTW, for the outer corner I would prefer to mount the bolt from underneath and tighten a nut against the new bed for easy spring adjustment of the bed with one nut spanner only, the two inner corner should be a once-off adjustment

Erik

Good point, unless the axes framework is stripped down, there should be no need.

Has anyone thought about expansion causing warp?

I'm seeing some bending forces being applied to by glass plate, it's flat when off the bed, but when the clips are fitted I'm seeing some bending forces from the aluminium/heater sandwich. Not doing anything about it until the new sub bed is fitted but was wondering about mounting the glass slightly off the bed maybe? Also maybe the heater plate and spreader plate should have one corner fixed and the other two points mounted on slots?

Is the expansion coefficient similar between the the hot bed and spreader plate, if not then the pair could spring similar to a bi-metal strip does.

Just wondering.

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

One more here thanks.
Paypal's OK

Quote
Davek
I'm seeing some bending forces being applied to by glass plate, it's flat when off the bed, but when the clips are fitted I'm seeing some bending forces from the aluminium/heater sandwich.

I've been using tape for quite a while rather than spring-clips for this very reason (initially I used it to avoid the fan vents catching the bulldog clips supplied, but then realised that A: tape applied judiciously doesn't bend the glass plate in the same way that spring clips could, and B: I could tie the top glass plate to the bottom MDF plate and better prevent slippage).

I bought a heater PCB from eBay which is innately domed, I hoped I could remove the doming by sandwiching it - I was wrong, unfortunately the materials I stuck it to complied with its curvature rather than the other way round My RRP heating PCB is very flat, as is (was) the aluminium plate - siting a glass plate on top of the sandwich I made gives a visibly rocky glass plate (clamping it would presumably curve the glass) - all of this is observed at room temperature (but continues at higher temps - just to distinguish it from you bimetal question) - I'm guessing that your heat spreader or the pcb underneath are domed (try them against the thin edge of a ruler). I'm not sure that you'd get sufficient heat transfer if the glass isn't pretty much touching something hot underneath , suspending it above the PCB or heat spreader wouldn't be too efficient (think about the merits of the air gap in double glazing).

On the bimetal question, if the sub-bed and the spreader plate aren't glued together, they should be able to expand and contract independently (the surfaces could slide over each other) and won't cause curling (bimetal strips curl because they have a common welded interface that can't slip as the two metals expand at different rates, so the only way that the differential expansion can occur is if the two curl).


Cheers

Ray