My Fan Duct...Mk1 (BackWash Eliminator...I Hope)

Hmmm had one of those sleepless nights so designed a replacement Fan Ducting which should eliminate the Fan BackWash and warping I've experianced..... Fingers crossed..

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Go on tell me you've done it.... Own up...

There I was 1 hr in to the print of my new Duct, and I was chuffed to bits with it as it was looking great.
So then I had a brain wave, I'll clear the table of tools, and get this Work Bench...Ooops dinning room table sorted out.
Well there's my cordless drill, with it's flat battery (you can tell where this is going can't you already).
So brain of Britain here decides it would be a good time to put it on charge...
So I looked at the wall socket, two plugs, the printer has a black one so I'll unplug the white one.
Now about this time, as my hand was going for the plug, one of my two brain cells kicked in and was screaming not the
white..... To late, hand was in remote mode not listening to brain.... The printer stops.... Darn! So I plugged it back in quick.
The printer started again, relief.... Mmmmm nope, a big pile of silly string all over my pride and joy...
Oh well, at least I can see the table now..

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Hi Kim,
Can you post the sti file please. It looks as if the fan will be on top blowing down. Is that correct?
I'm wondering if that design can be incorporated with the one piece fan assembly.

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appjaws - Core XYUV Duet Ethernet Duex5
firmware 3.1.1 Web Interface 3.1.1
Ormerod 1-converted to laser engraver, Duet wifi
OpenSCAD version 2020.07
slic3r-1.3.0, Simplify3D 4.1.2, Cura-4.4.1

I was going to wait until I fitted it before putting the stl file up.
Just printing it at the moment. While I've put some of the arm on for the new position
for the IR Probe, you'll have to mount it on Plasti-card, and drill a couple of holes.
I couldn't work out a way to get a decent flat surface to cling to the HotBed if I put all of it on there...

Yes the fan sits facing down in a duct, so any BackWash can't get out.
I wanted to put three chimneys above the heat sink, but saw that the PTFE tube would foul the center
one, so removed it from the design.

I think it will be a good 2 hours yet before I know if it fits... Fingers crossed I got the measurements right.
I also put three cable cleats on the duct, as some people clip their cables differently.
(Not sure if the side ones will print, but we'll see).

Let me know how you get on with it if you use it.... (But I'd wait a bit till mine finishes printing first).
I'll post some pictures when it's done. I plan on sealing around the heat sink with either UHU or
5minute apoxy....

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P.S. If you do start to print it before I've tried it, I added a 10mm Brim in the Slic3r settings to help it stay stuck to the glass.

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Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
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Quote
KimBrown
P.S. If you do start to print it before I've tried it, I added a 10mm Brim in the Slic3r settings to help it stay stuck to the glass.

Thanks Kim.

Morning full of surprises!

Dario

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Ormerod 187
Firmware Electronics: Duet 0.6
Firmware Version:1.18.1 (2017-04-07)
Web Interface Version:1.15a
Slic3r 1.2.9a and Simplify3D 4.0.0
[www.dropbox.com]

Hiya Dario, just want to see it getting to the point of building the Chimneys, then I'll grab a couple of hours kip.
I'll be pig sick if I got any of the measurements wrong.
Got a few loose strands hanging under the to ears at the moment, so I might alter the design and put some fillets
under them to hold them up.

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It's not perfect, but not far off. I might tweek it a little.... Make the ears deeper, and
I missed a 0.5mm step on the inside that I'd like to alter, but it's cosmetic, and it's inside so you won't see it.

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Slic3r can't do holes in mid air to well... But it eventualy managed it.

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YOW!!! It FITS!!!!


Well it all fits. I've lowered the nozzle on to the Ally Heat Spread (my 4mm glass still has to go on yet), and I have a gap of about 1.5mm
between my Fan Duct and Control Box Corner (but my HotBed is raised by 3mm anyway).

Notes on fitting...
I used 5 minute Apoxy to glue and seal the Heat Sink to the Duct. I used it on other ducts I've tried and it works a treat.
Measure the thickness of your fan. The Original fan is 10mm. The lugs in the duct are 5mm thick, so for the Original fan
you should use 15mm Allen Screws (measured from under the Head). My £2.50 quiet fan is 5mm so I am using 10mm screws.
You only need two on diagnal corners, but you might want to plug the two empty holes.
The screw holes may need cleaning out with a 2mm drill, but be careful you don't go through the side of the duct.
You can see if your throu the lug by looking in the Heat Sink Hole.
You will also need a 3.5mm drill to clean out the two mounting holes. The screws here are the original 40mm long screws.
Again you might want to clean out the holes for the screw heads a fraction. I haven't done mine, and the screw head are proud by about 1mm.

The only other thing I found was that I had to file the top cleat, where I put it slightly proud inside the duct, as it's tricky to get the fan in without
filing it down.

Excuse the state of my wiring, I need to legthen my LED wires before I tidy it up.

Mk2 will have an alteration to the top cleat, and maybe deepen the holes for the mounting screw heads to fit in better, and I might move the Heat Sink seating ledge by another 0.5mm. But otherwise it'll be the same. So if you use this one, don't bother changing to the Mk2 version.
All the Best,
Kim..

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/03/2014 09:57AM by KimBrown.

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Here's a fan grill to make the Duct look better.



The two gaps are for the top cleat clearance, and the other is to get the wires for the fan throu..

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/03/2014 11:55AM by KimBrown.

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Here's the finished print (upside down) of the Fan Grill.
The lighting for the picture is from the machine now... No flash needed..


And here is what it looks like when fitted:-



You can also use it as a Garlic Press......

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The STL files for the Duct and the Grill are now on ThingyVerse...
Ducting and Grill

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The REVISED I.R.Probe adapter plate for the Fan-Duct is now up on Thingverse.
Revisions:-
1) Adapter length reduced by 1mm.
2) Retaining Catch size reduced.
3) The I.R.Probe plug area is now chamfered.

If you are already using the original clip then you won't need to change to the Revised model.

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Hello Kim

I am Printing for my Upgrade on my Printer your fanduct and till now it Looks great, very nice designed.

Thank you for your hard work and share !!

Hi Kim,
I'm trying your fan project (modified...I truncated the press at the fan) ...
fully successful printing!!!!
photos in the coming days on Ormerod187 dropbox
thank you so much for your sharing!...I finally removed the cardboard box on the fan.

Dario

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/29/2014 11:40AM by Ormerod187.

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Ormerod 187
Firmware Electronics: Duet 0.6
Firmware Version:1.18.1 (2017-04-07)
Web Interface Version:1.15a
Slic3r 1.2.9a and Simplify3D 4.0.0
[www.dropbox.com]

When printing ABS, we're just removing the nozzle-duct, so the air blows out the of the fan-duct back towards the Y motor. PLA need some air as it prints, as it's quite liquid, but ABS extrudes a bit more viscous, so you don't really need the nozzle-duct - it may even be harmful, causing layer delamination. I've updated the ABS guide with this: [reprappro.com]

Ian
RepRapPro tech support