Probably a stupid question but...
Is my nozzle too high?? I've noticed there is barely any clearance between the bottom of the fan enclosure & the IR sensor.
If there is even the slightest bit of curling upwards which there as been on recent gear prints they parts mentioned tend to catch the print on one side.
they also catch if I try to print more than one component at once.

Should I....;
A) Lower the nozzle slightly, if so how much by? please note, if i do this, would I also have to reset the settings on my IR sensor as I use the auto-calibration method each time before printing.

I could put a strip around the bearing that runs along the back of the lasercut plastic of the X Axis. Or even a stip of something along the lasercut axis its self. Note, this would have to pe perfectly flat as any wobble would cause the nozzle to jolt, so im a bit sceptical about this... it would also decrease the amount of 'give' that currently acts as a suspension for when the Zaxis drops too low pressing the nozzle into the heatbed glass. hmmm


any other thoughts???? really appreciate all tips

Too low

I had the same thing, the front of the fan housing is not vertical to the bed, it sags down.

Get the adjustable X bearing all the way in, I also filed off the bottom of the fan duct a bit. Also make sure the brass end of the bowden tube is all the way in so the head is as low as possible. I also had to stick a thin steel tape along the X axis on the acrylic, don't tape the bearing or it will jump every time the tape end comes around.

It fiddly but clearance can be had, I now have at least 1.5mm clear..

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Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

It is correct that there is very little clearance between the fan/IR sensor and the print. You can lower the extruder somewhat by adding some washers between the cooling block and the heat-resistant spacer.
But note that if you have any warping at all, then the print is not going to be good, even when it does not hit the IR sensor.

I fixed this by using iamburnys modified x carrier with a longer slot for the bearing, and a lowered piece( cant remember the name of the part) but its the bit with 3 slots in it, 2 screws and the bowden tube.its now changed to 1 slot and 2 holes (for screws)

all found on the fourm (somewhere)

I had same problem.
Temporary fixed it by sticking small piece of filanment between wooden part and plastic so it would slightly push bottom part aside and make angle so fan part would not touch bottom.

Then I've printed this one: [github.com] from iamburny, and it is greatly resolves such problem. Still there is chance if your angle is too high it would possibly touch by 2 fan extensions but they are a bit higher and much closer to noosle so you doing something else really wrong.

First make sure that bearing on Z whole part is not shaking that is sliding along its aluminium part.
Then make sure that you've screwed actual carriage properly to part that is attached to linear bearing.
And last really important is that nozzle can be slightly lowered by screwing aluminium rectangular part higher. You have to still maintain good fixing between nozzle and filanment part.

Hope it helps.
Max

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/06/2014 07:48PM by moka.

Hmmmmm, 88 try this simple trick initialy to be able to get on with printing.
Undo the two allen screws that hold the HotEnd Assembly on to what they call the nozzle mount.
Then, while lifting the nozzle, do up the the two allen screws again....
Hopefully the repositioning will lift the Cooling ducts up.

I also added some bits of Costa Coffee stirers on top of the MDF insulator to give me more clearance between the hieght of the nozzle and the height
of the probe in it's original position.

Then Print out My Fan Ducting and Grill.... I've been printing for sometime with the vents blanked off and my New design does away with them, and
stops Warping on large prints.... If you are using the modified X-axis mounting, also print my adapter plate, else you'll be stuck..

Good Luck,
Enjoy Printing,
Kim..

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Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
I won't see comments in threads, as I move around to much.
Working Link to Big Blue 360 Complete

Brill, thanks all for your advice.
I ended up striping the nozle yesterday and by shoving a couple of washers next to the MDF strip managed to lower the nozle a couple of mm.
Did a print yesterday with a nice amount of clearance from the Zprobe and fan.

I'm going to try printing the fan ducts over the weekend, can't wait

AH, hadn't thought about blocking the fan ducts.. i'm having a little warping trouble at the moment but i thought i need more air flow (as it's an over hang and I've read cool air helps bridging, is this not true )

again, thanks all

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/07/2014 05:05AM by 88Zombies.

Quote
88Zombies
AH, hadn't thought about blocking the fan ducts.. i'm having a little warping trouble at the moment but i thought i need more air flow (as it's an over hang and I've read cool air helps bridging, is this not true )

They are two different issues. Without sufficient cooling (or the extruder too hot), the extruded plastic can break and curl when doing bridging instead of laying flat over the gap, which not only results in holes in the bridge, but can leave a raised curl that catches the extruder later and causes the X or Y motor to skip or can even knock the print off the bed.

If however the bed is not hot enough, or draughts cause uneven or fluctuating heating, the entire print can begin to warp, either bending one side of the print up away from the bed, or causing layers to delaminate as the upper part of the print warps away from the lower part - as in attached photo

Dave
(#106)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/07/2014 07:47AM by dmould.