HELP: All LED near solid cap are turned on

Is it something dead? cause can't detect anymore my duet board... nothing working

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/28/2014 11:34AM by antlvk.

you mean the leds are on but the cant connect with the USB?
If so mine does that some times.
I take the SDcard out and put it back in. plug the wires back in and seems to connect... can be a bit tempremental in connecting.
I think my issue is a slightly dodgy USB wire.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/28/2014 12:49PM by 88Zombies.

Does that already. Still the same....

and if i turn on ATX psu all the heating element turn on..... all motor are on... but LAN not working, USB not working.....

Please be sure you remove the power and USB plug BEFORE removing the SD card, else you might fry it.
Similar to removing it safely from a PC. Memory devices don't like being unplugged when there is power on them.
Kim

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Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
I won't see comments in threads, as I move around to much.
Working Link to Big Blue 360 Complete

It sounds like you have shorted 12V to the 5V or 3.3V circuit of the board, most likely via the proximity sensor - because all the lights that are on are the endstop lights. When did it happen? Did the proximity sensor hit a bed clip? How is your bed put together? Is the aluminium heat spreader touching one of the terminals for the heated bed? There is a warning about this in the instructions.

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

Yes proximity sensor hit the clip then everything when dead. So is there any fix or I need another board?

WHere can I buy a new board if can't fix it?

Ian. where I can buy a new board

Is there anyway I could use RAMPS 1.4 or Melzi for Ormerod?

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antlvk
... where I can buy a new board

at reprappro there is a contact form https://reprappro.com/support-page/ select "Sales Enquiry"
or @ [www.think3dprint3d.com] but please be aware that they use different connectors!

regarding RAMPS / Melzi:
I'm no expert but I would think that it should work if you mount endstops on all axes (X, Z).

Hello Antlvk

My Duet died i the same way. I my case RRP replaced my duet.

You can buye new bord at [www.think3dprint3d.com], But the board has another kind of terminals.

jan

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/01/2014 04:38AM by XB70.

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XB70

@antlvk: A RAMPS board should work okay, but will take a bit of setting up, and you'll have to change the bed ribbon cable for wires, to fit into the RAMPS board. But be aware that a RAMPS board will cost you nearly as much as a Duet, as you need to buy the Arduino Mega 2560, the RAMPS board and 4 x stepper driver boards. You still won't have ethernet, and Marlin doesn't have the axis compensation that RepRapFirmware does, though I think it has bed compensation now. You would also have to add support for the proximity sensor to the firmware, or replace it with more conventional microswitch endstops.

@XB70: We replaced a number of boards early on, because the cause wasn't clear, and then because the danger of shorting out to the bed wasn't in the instructions initially. It's been in the instructions for a while now.

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

I recon reprappro to put a standard parts to insulate or cover that sensor. cause my sensor hit the clip when i print larger size printing. if there is cover it wouldn't cause problem.

btw. anything i need to check when my new board arrive? does this sensor still work? i scared when plug in the sensor are still not going well and burn the board again

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antlvk
...does this sensor still work? i scared when plug in the sensor are still not going well and burn the board again

..surely there most be spare original probes from a dc42 mod change, anyone living near by you? - if not, will gladly send you mine for free when I receive the dc42 one

Erik

I'm live in North Borneo if you know where is it

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antlvk
I'm live in North Borneo if you know where is it

No problem, it's only a stamp away

Erik

I think the sensor should be okay - people who have done this usually report that the sensor is okay, as the 12V shorts straight down the 3.3V wire. You can test it; connect 3.3V to the black and red wires that go to it, and measure the voltage on blue wire. It should vary from 3.3V when very close to a white piece of paper, and near 0V when far from any target.

And please, check that the aluminium heat spreader does not have 12V when the bed is on!

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

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ormerod168

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antlvk
I'm live in North Borneo if you know where is it

No problem, it's only a stamp away

Erik

When I shorted 12V to 3.3V it did affect the IR sensor. It didn't kill it completely, but the overcurrent through the LED reduced its output considerably. I just replaced the component.

Dave
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