Printing Problem

Hello everybody:

I have some problems when I try to print 3D models. I don't know how but the layers were moved when it was printing.
Something like the photos I enclosed you.

Although really I would like to do this model.

I use Slic3r software to exporting to g-code.

Could you tell me how I can solve this issue?

Thank you in advanced.

Regards.

Hi kukoso,

To help you, we really need to know the X and Y directions in the photos you posted. But my guess is that the y-belt is slipping in its slot in the plywood. See section "Belt slipping" in [reprappro.com] for a quick solution. For a better solution, see [github.com] and follow the links to Matt's y-belt tensioners and my spacers.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Matt's version 7 tensioner is the best I think personaly....
There's no easy way of discribing the belt tension on these machines, other than when you look at the machine running and using the Y-axis (I take it it is the Y axis thats the problem), watch the belt as it leaves the pulley.... If it HUMPS up then the belt needs to be tightend a little. Normaly if it's to tight, you see problems at the idler end where the belt is so tight it pulls the printed part of the framework over, and the belt starts to rub....

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Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
I won't see comments in threads, as I move around to much.
Working Link to Big Blue 360 Complete

Ok!!!

Thank you very much!!!

It was in Y direction, so as you say, the y-belt is slipping in its slot in the plywood.

I'm going to adjust the y-belt and I'll try again the model. Provably I will do Matt's version 7 tensioner like improvement of my machine.

I didn't know that exists other components to improve the 3D printer.

When I finish I will tell you how it went.

Regards.

Matt's v7 clamps are indeed a great improvement, simple, easy to fit and secure. I use them in conjunction with the johneato Y end plate with belt adjuster here That makes it very easy to tweak the tension from an accessible position.

Well, I've continued with this piece but I don't know why when it arrives to layer of the Z axis of the piece, it go up to 10 or 20 mm and it continues printing.
I've happened twice. I've tried to understand why but I don't find it explanation.

I would like finishing with this piece and then I'm going to do Matt's v7 clamps in conjuntion with johneato. It's a great idea! Thank you!

I was thinking maybe the printer failed because the proximity sensor is too low when Z is 0. The proximity sensor gives me in this position 218 instead of 950.

Quote
kukuso
I was thinking maybe the printer failed because the proximity sensor is too low when Z is 0. The proximity sensor gives me in this position 218 instead of 950.

The face of the proximity sensor should be around 2mm higher than the tip of the nozzle. A reading of 218 at Z=0 is very low. Things to check:

1. Is the hot end horizontal (especially in the x-direction) and the nozzle vertical? Hot end sag is a common problem, and will put the nozzle too low relative to the position of the original IR sensor.

2. Is the face of the IR sensor clean? Is it parallel to the bed?

3. Is the face of the IR sensor fairly central over one of the white targets when you take the G31 reading? Do you have the white targets on the top of the glass? (optionally, with a layer of Kapton over them).

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Trying to print some new ABS parts - ready for a complete overhaul.
Not doing too well with the extruder and herringbone gears - severe curling on the extruder and big gear.
Sli3er settings
40% infil
First layer 240,120
Other layers 235,115

Advice?
Gregf

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Ormerod #17

Quote
GregL
Trying to print some new ABS parts - ready for a complete overhaul.
Not doing too well with the extruder and herringbone gears - severe curling on the extruder and big gear.
Sli3er settings
40% infil
First layer 240,120
Other layers 235,115
Advice?
Gregf

See my post regarding warping issues. I find 230/110 for all layers works well for most parts. The biggest culprit is draughts - shield your Ormerod from all draughts while printing and print in an ambient temperature above 20 deg C. A brief draught from a door opening and closing can ruin a print. Bed adhesion must be good. I presently use a solution of ABS dissolved in acetone direct on the glass, but I used solvent cement (sold in hardware stores for gluing plastic pipes) at first which works well and you may find it easier to get hold of quickly, though making it yourself is a lot cheaper. Printing with a raft (Slic3r settings) can also help.

Dave
(#106)

Hi kukuso

Your axis.stl (scale 150) printed with correct adjusted belts (is using Matt's tensioner)









Erik

Wow, it's awesome!!!

This weekend I couldn't stay with 3D printer. Today I hope to have some time to correct the proximity sensor and first of all I'm going to do the adjusted belt. You've convinced me.

I tell you something this afternoon.

Thank you Erik to show me the 3D model because I was a little unhappy with my printer. Although, I'm already seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.

Iñaki

Quote
kukuso
Thank you Erik to show me the 3D model because I was a little unhappy with my printer. Although, I'm already seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.

Iñaki

Way to go Iñaki! - never give up, never surrender! - yes there may be much gnashing of teeth along the way but you will get there in the end, we have all been thought this, had it not been for the help form the community I would have send the printer back in a box many moons ago.

I especially remember one of dc42's first posting showing what he had been able to print and that kept me going, ad to that his firmware of cause

Erik

Hello again.

I'm so sorry to write you so late but I were very busy and I couldn't repair the proximity sensor of the 3D printer before.

Obviously, the problem is with proximity sensor. When I put up the white card on the hot bed the proximity sensor reads 932 value.
But without the white card its values is 336.

And when the proximity sensor is on the top the value is 632, and sometimes, fluctuates in its trajectory.

Thank in advance for your help and your words of encouragement.

Iñaki.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/13/2014 04:10AM by kukuso.

Quote
kukuso
..Obviously, the problem is with proximity sensor. When I put up the white card on the hot bed the proximity sensor reads 932 value.
But without the white card its values is 336.

And when the proximity sensor is on the top the value is 632, and sometimes, fluctuates in its trajectory....

Hi Iñaki

Sorry to hear about your problems with the proximity sensor but no surprise to me as it never have been working properly - I take it that you use the probe for zeroing the nozzle and for bed compensation? - I will strongly recommend that you adjust your bed on 3 points only (if you not do that already), it will make things easier for you - and that you forget the probe all together and level your bed mechanically and before printing, with the bed at printing temperature, you just zero the nozzle on a piece of paper at X100 Y100

but the bed has to be level to do that

you can easily adjust the bed level with the two screws close to the y-extrusion, use the nozzle with a piece of paper under to compare the hight

now you may have some variation left in nozzle hight at the outer points of the bed (between X200 Y0 and X200 Y200), there will be some variation there if your outer y-rod is not perfectly parallel to the inner y-rod and you should then adjust the acrylic y-axis end plates so that they are just that

last you adjust the outer bed hight to the inner bed hight with the outer adjustment screw at X200 Y100

Then, just before a print, with the bed at printing temperature, move the nozzle to the midst of the bed (X100 Y100) and zero the nozzle on a piece of paper, if the fan is running the vibration is a good indicator of the touchdown - the nozzle should put some pressure on the paper, the proper way to zero the nozzle would be on the glass directly as this is what the printing program expect zero to be, so try to get the feel of how hard the nozzle should grab the paper as to get i just right (to compensate for the springiness in the system)

I wrote a small Howto about it, you can find it here (and don't mind the silly wording):

While we wait on a functional auto-probing...
[forums.reprap.org]

This might also be a useful read:

Sagging MDF, the Q & D fix that anyone can do
[forums.reprap.org]

Best of luck
Erik