Don't do what I did, or, how not to waste your time.

Having spent a while messing about I thought it might help others so that you don't make the mistakes that I did.

First off, the web interface doesn't work. I spent a long time, and three network cables, 2 switches, 1 hub and a cross-over cable before deciding it didn't work. It isn't a major problem because you can do everything needed via USB and Pronterface, hopefully it is a firmware rather than hardware thing that they can fix.

Next up, don't spend time with the Auto Z homing system, unless you are in a windowless room with only flourescent lights, it doesn't work. Again not a huge problem, but I did spend a lot of time in darkened room, building a tent out of some hardboard before I gave up.

On a similar theme, bed compensation doesn't seem at all happy, don't know if this was related to the Z homing system but I lost a lot of time. I haven't looked at the firmware maths but maybe it was because I couldn't use the X180 Y180, that would have put me over the white paper markers and messed up the measurements. Besides which the nut and threaded rod aren't intended for continual motion. So spend a bit of time and get the bed level by hand. This does mean replacing the short cap screws with 20mm long screws, then I used nyloc nuts so that things didn't decide to move around later.

Then you get to ormaxis.g, it gave me a few problems. Whilst I was still trying the Auto Z Homing I found that the G28 'home all' instruction caused issues, X and Y would home perfectly but Z didn't go to the right place, it instead went to X0 Y0. Yes I had put the right information in config.g, and if I hit Z Home in Pronterface it went to the right place, but it failed in ormaxis.g. I editted ormaxis.g to home each axis separately. Of course when I had given up on the Auto Z Home it wouldn't have mattered anyway.

I did try disabling the Auto Z Homing in config.g, but if you comment out the two line referring to the system then the X axis no longer homes.

Next up edit homez.g and comment out the G30 line to stop the system trying to use the Auto Z Home system.

Then you can get printing, I am part way through printing the objects that were the point of getting the printer.... holding my breath for 2.5 hours is out of the question, so maybe I should go and get an early lunch.

While I agree the original as supplied web interface is a waste of time, if you put on the dc42 firmware and the iamburny based web interface then that works fine and I would say much better than usb pronterface.

Hi BraynG, Welcome....
Hmmmm sounds like you've had a Trial getting to the printing stage.

If it helps you can manually set any of the Axi using G92 i.e. For Z.... Lower it to the glass, or use a piece of paper (paper is about 0.1mm thick for 80gm stuff) then issue the G92 command:-
G92 Z0.1 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< 0.1 being the distance it is now away from the table.
You can do this with any of the Axi.

I manualy level the bed cos I don't like the compensation so turn it off.

I found I got better results from the I.R. Probe using DARK RED float glass... But it still wonders sometimes...
I set my probe by lowering it to 0.1mm aboove the table then issue G31.... Lots of times to get an average.
Then edit the config file to use the average figure... It then works fairly well for me then.... I intend to paint the edges of my glass with black paint to stop the light getting in...

Hope that helps... Enjoy the printing... Yes it can be frustrating from time to time, but when you get your head around it it becomes easy....
Hang in there... Its a special hobby that not many people can do, till they learn the mystical ways of 3d printing...
If you need a hand PM me...
Kim..

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Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
I won't see comments in threads, as I move around to much.
Working Link to Big Blue 360 Complete

Hi Bob

First job was to print the bits that I really need to do, then my next step was to load the alternate firmware,and have a 'play'. I have asked DC42 for one of his replacement Z sensor boards.

Kim, G92 has become my friend. X and Y home perfectly, then I set the Z using G92 as you suggested. Setting the Z 0.0 is just a bit of a faff and would be a lot easier if the Auto Z home properly.

This isn't my first reprap, I have a Mendel Longboat Prusa that has been sat in the corner because the head died. I have just fitted a new head, and now I have two machines I can use one to do the work and the other to make parts for the first. I got the Ormerod because of all the new features, it is just a shame that I have had to switch all of them off to get a decent print.

Quote
BraynG
...Whilst I was still trying the Auto Z Homing I found that the G28 'home all' instruction caused issues, X and Y would home perfectly but Z didn't go to the right place, it instead went to X0 Y0. Yes I had put the right information in config.g, and if I hit Z Home in Pronterface it went to the right place, but it failed in ormaxis.g

It sounds like your homeall.g file needed editing. Whenever you edit homex.g, homey.g or homez.g, you need to make the same changes to the appropriate part of homeall.g.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Thank you for that, I knew I should have been looking for something else. Though it would be good if RepRapPro put that information in the 'Setting the Z Probe' section of the Axis Compensation page.

My print just finished and all seems OK, a bit of sand paper to smooth the edges and a 14mm drill through the bore and I think that the job is a goodun.