Print not stick any more April 25, 2014 02:30PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 76 |
Re: Print not stick any more April 25, 2014 02:38PM |
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Re: Print not stick any more April 25, 2014 03:18PM |
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Re: Print not stick any more April 25, 2014 04:09PM |
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Re: Print not stick any more April 25, 2014 04:14PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 147 |
Re: Print not stick any more April 25, 2014 05:06PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 2,472 |
Quote
PaulHam
PVA + water, brushed onto the glass. Put bed up to temp and allow to dry. Reapply mixture a couple of times.
PLA Will stick every time. You need to let it cool right down before trying to remove your print, I was rushing the other day and snapped the original glass in half. Now I use 6mm glass and actually pulled off a small slither of glass the other day.
Re: Print not stick any more April 25, 2014 07:13PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,685 |
Quote
dmould
[I'm starting to get annoyed with the slight doming of the glass on my Ormerod. I've now got a nice sturdy aluminium frame supported bed adjusted to be perfectly level and don't use any bed compensation, but due to the doming the first layer is not completely consistent, though it usually works well enough so long as I zero the Z height at the lowest point (on the furthest outer perimeter). It's time to pay a visit to a glazier for some 6mm float glass, I think!
Re: Print not stick any more April 26, 2014 04:41AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 76 |
Re: Print not stick any more April 26, 2014 05:07AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,685 |
Re: Print not stick any more April 26, 2014 05:44AM |
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Re: Print not stick any more April 26, 2014 07:23AM |
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Re: Print not stick any more April 27, 2014 07:56AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 2,472 |
Quote
dc42
Stiffness (i.e. reciprocal of deflection for constant load) varies as the cube of thickness, so the 4mm float glass that I usually use is 2.37 times as good as 3mm glass, and good enough IMO
Bear in mind that there are other factors at play here. Someone (I forget who) pointed out that if you hang the extruder on the middle slot of the X axis, the Bowden tube exerts a stronger outward (and hence downward) force on the print head at the centre of the X-axis range than near the ends. The amount that the glass domes up in the middle depends on how firmly it is clamped at the corners, which you can adjust.
Re: Print not stick any more April 27, 2014 10:29AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 1,230 |
Quote
dc42
...Bear in mind that there are other factors at play here. Someone (I forget who) pointed out that if you hang the extruder on the middle slot of the X axis, the Bowden tube exerts a stronger outward (and hence downward) force on the print head at the centre of the X-axis range than near the ends.
Quote
..The amount that the glass domes up in the middle depends on how firmly it is clamped at the corners, which you can adjust.
Re: Print not stick any more April 27, 2014 11:49AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 76 |
Quote
ormerod168
Quote
dc42
...Bear in mind that there are other factors at play here. Someone (I forget who) pointed out that if you hang the extruder on the middle slot of the X axis, the Bowden tube exerts a stronger outward (and hence downward) force on the print head at the centre of the X-axis range than near the ends.
Was me, here:
[forums.reprap.org]
..and the visual here:
[forums.reprap.org]
Quote
..The amount that the glass domes up in the middle depends on how firmly it is clamped at the corners, which you can adjust.
Depends, if your bed is stable (e.g. use Davek0974's alu bed) and use 3-point adjustment and if the glass (in my case 4mm) rest on the PCB only (no alu heat plate), if you clamp the glass to the PCB only, then the PCB will hang a bit at the middle from the weight of the glass and not effect it at all
[attachment 31651 bed.JPG]
..ad to that - if your x-axis is stable (e.g. use Davek0974 alu x-axis) and able to resist the force of the bowden cable and the weight of the hot end and the the extruder, then you will find that your glass is perfectly flat
..and furthermore, if you adjust your y-axis-end-plate and reinforce them will alu support then you can forget all about any setbed.g, and if you took care in assembling the ormerod axis´s with perfect angles then you can forget about axis compensation
[attachment 31652 frankenrod.JPG]
So what's left to do before printing?, nothing really, if you installed dc42's perfect probe (I use sub sonic only), just heat up the bed, do a G30 and start printing, easy peacy
[attachment 31650 dc42probe.JPG]
..and your cabling will look nice and tidy, what's not to like? - thank you dc42!
and back to topic, when I find the print will not stick to kapton tape I sand it lightly with P320 sandpaper, works every time for me
Erik
Re: Print not stick any more April 28, 2014 07:25AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 2,472 |
Quote
Chaisaeng
Thanks Erik, I learn new trick today.
BTW. I google for the solution and found a lot of post mention hair spray but
I still not very convinced to that idea. Anyone have tried it yet? Just curious!!!
Re: Print not stick any more April 28, 2014 11:32AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 76 |
Quote
zombiepantslol
Clean the Kapton tape with some isopropyl alcohol. Works good for me.
Re: Print not stick any more May 17, 2014 06:11PM |
Registered: 11 years ago Posts: 24 |
Re: Print not stick any more May 17, 2014 06:21PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 378 |
Re: Print not stick any more May 17, 2014 06:27PM |
Registered: 11 years ago Posts: 24 |