Yap, it prints

So after about a month of working arround, the green beast started to create shapes out of melted plastic!



Feelin proud! And the print looks really good, I know its my first one, but I am pleased

Now I would like some tips from you on further printing, like, can I just remove this model and simply continue to print with another one? Do I need to clean the print bed first? And such things.
I did google about this, but some say clean, some say dont, some say "spray the model with canned air to take it of".. But I would like the opinions of ormerod user

Thank you,
Antonio

Antonio, I'm glad to see you got this far! If you are using a Kapton bed then cleaning it with isopropanol or acetone between prints is generally a good idea. You may get away without if you avoid finger-marking the bed.

From the right-most photo, I think your extruder temperature may be a little too high. I use 195C for the first layer and 185 or 190C for the rest.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I am not using kapton, decided to print on the glass directly.

The temperature was set to 200 (pronterface default), but I did notice that my web Ormerod control showed the temperature high as 235, and only after a few layers droping to 200. I am not sure why that happened.

EDIT: for the first and second layer temperature - do I input the temperature manually or can that be automated? I am not familiar with that.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/29/2014 10:32AM by Sardi.

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Sardi
I am not using kapton, decided to print on the glass directly.

In that case, do not use acetone or isopropanol to clean the bed, just prime it with vinegar between prints. When prints will no longer stick, take it off and wash it in hot soapy water.

Quote
Sardi
The temperature was set to 200 (pronterface default), but I did notice that my web Ormerod control showed the temperature high as 235, and only after a few layers droping to 200. I am not sure why that happened.

EDIT: for the first and second layer temperature - do I input the temperature manually or can that be automated? I am not familiar with that.

Check your filament settings in slic3r. There are separate settings for the first layer and other layers.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Hi Antonio

There ya go!, really great looking first print!

After the print I let the nozzle cool down, then cut of any filament hanging from the nozzle with a razor blade while taking care in holding it totally horizontal, like dc42 I then clean the bed again just for safety, taking care not to leave any dust from the paper on the bed, besides that I always re-zero the nozzle before printing again

Sometime you may find that your print just won't stick, on new kapton or old - those day I sand the kapton lightly with sandpaper P350-P400, then wipe the bed over with iso or ace to clean for dust and then, just like magic, the print will stick again

Before cleaning the nozzle I lift the x-axis to the top (the nut is a lose fit in the z-nut-trap) and mount a long angled spacer to hold it up as to get a clear view while cleaning the nozzle



Erik

Also make sure you have set the retraction distance (in "Printer settings" / "Extruder 1") to 4mm or more. That might help eliminate those couple of strings.

Dave
(#106)

Thanks for the tips, did just what you told me, now lets see how the second print goes

About printing, do I need to turn the heating for the hot end manualy, or will it turn on when I sent the file to print? I am asking this because of the 1st and 2nd layer temperature setting in slicer, therefore I think that the head will start heating when I send the print command.

Check the "Custom G code" in the slic3r print settings. It should look something like this:

G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; use relative distances for extrusion
G1 Z5 F200 ; lift nozzle
G1 X2 Y50 F4000; Go to wait for warm position
M116; Wait for all temperatures
T0; Select extruder
M116; Wait for all temperature

The M116 command will ensure that it heats up before printing.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/29/2014 11:33AM by dc42.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

This is what I have at Custom G code. It was all there by default, I didnt add anything.

Looks like you didn't load RepRapPro's slic3r settings then.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Please tell me where do I find the RepRapPro Slic3r settings to load them?

[reprappro.com]

PS - unless RRP have changed them, you need to make some adjustments after loading them:

- increase retraction to 4mm
- reduce first layer temp to about 195 and other layer temp to 190 or below

I also increase the skirt clearance and set the minimum filament to use for the skirt to 20mm. I've increased some of the speeds too, but wait until you get good prints before you do that.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/29/2014 01:01PM by dc42.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Did everything you said. I am having another go at the Modified heatsink duct

Good luck!

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

@Erik

Hi Erik... I wouldn't use a knife to clean the nozzle, it will kill it one day...

I use a clean soft leather gardening glove, and it brings it up like new... They are cheap as chips, but last a long time... I cut a bit off one for my cleaner...

I like the angle iron idea.... I'm going to make one here....

@Sardi
Nice to see it works... It looks a bit hot to me... After the first layer try 195/190...

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Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
I won't see comments in threads, as I move around to much.
Working Link to Big Blue 360 Complete

And the results





You can see on the first left picture, the model got a bit warped. Any ideas why?

EDIT:
I am having some issues after updating Slic3r to RepRap settings. Will open a new topic later on.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/29/2014 03:50PM by Sardi.

Quote
KimBrown
@Erik

Hi Erik... I wouldn't use a knife to clean the nozzle, it will kill it one day...

Yes I know but as I wrote: "..while taking care in holding it totally horizontal"

Quote

..I like the angle iron idea.... I'm going to make one here....

Its actually angled cardboard, very strong, almost MDF! (LOL) - the angled form make it slip right in, and most importantly, stay put

..but I do (when I print) have a 15mm steel bit in there at the bottom, just to make sure the nozzle don't drill the bed by accident

Erik

Warping is typically caused by a combination of poor adhesion to the bed and draughts or backwash from the fan (although I would not expect backwash to be a big issue with a part as small as that). Print a fan backwash deflector when you can. The one I use is here [github.com]. As you are printing direct on glass, use a bed temperature of at least 65C. Wash the glass in hot soapy water, then avoid finger-marking it and wipe it with a clean tissue moistened in vinegar before each print. It also helps to wait 2 minutes after the bed reaches temperature before you start printing, because the temperature on the top surface of the glass lags the temperature indicated by the bed thermistor.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].