I've just updated the hot end instructions, with the way we build our hot ends. Adrian wrote the instructions originally, and he tends to build hot ends his own way! See [reprappro.com]
Hopefully they are clearer. There's a couple of pictures I forgot to take, I will update them during the week. Any feedback gratefully received.
I also plan to rewrite the Axis Compensation instructions this week, finally.

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

Looks good When I assembled the hotend for the first time, I didn't quite know where to put all the cables, but the new documentation shows everything quite nicely. Axis compensation is the most difficult part IMO, so I'd really appreciate some improved instructions.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/05/2014 07:47PM by zombiepantslol.

I don't remember the instructions for the hotend being difficult to follow or "strange" in any way, but I do remember it being a bit confusing, I just wasn't sure I was doing it right (since there are some degrees of freedom in how things are screwed together). I think these new ones clarify a few things in a good way though, on how things should fit. Also that drill in the end of the teflon tube when threading it, I sure didn't think of that. Would have made it a lot easier to get it straight for sure...

@Ian, Looks good, that certainly should help, as jstck the drill use while threading is a great addition.
Also seeing the nozzle tip position in relation to the tapered nut will be really useful. My original attempt had the nozzle set further back which caused all sorts of issues.

Thanks

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Ormerod #007 (shaken but not stirred!)

Hi Ian, it looks really good. Only comment would be I'd suggest removing the Blowtorch bit thou, as somepeople that might not have used shrinkwrap before might go over the top with it. Also when fitting the Brass Union to the Ally Block, I'd suggest just a little dab of thread lock to stop it unscrewing,
as when it does come slack the J head comes loose and flops about. You also don't have to do the Union up so tight, and so less likely to crush it. Another suggestion is to place a drill shake inside the Union while tightening in the Ally block for the same reason.

Kim

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Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
I won't see comments in threads, as I move around to much.
Working Link to Big Blue 360 Complete

Thanks for the feedback. The 'drill down the tube' was suggested by someone on the forum. I forget who, so if anyone remembers, please let me know, and I'll credit them.

If the brass union is tightened against the top of the stainless steel nozzle, it doesn't ever seem to move; it's like locking two nuts together. But yes, you could threadlock it too. I'm just not sure how threadlock copes with heat. What is a 'drill shake'? A quick google doesn't elicit any useful info. Maybe not something people will generally have in their toolkit?

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

Quote
droftarts
... What is a 'drill shake'? A quick google doesn't elicit any useful info. Maybe not something people will generally have in their toolkit?

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

LOLZ! - a milk shake with drill and no milk? - no I would think Kim meant a drill shaft, don't expect him do hit the keyboard right every time, Kim rocks! (he's on board a ship)

Erik

Quote
droftarts
What is a 'drill shake'? A quick google doesn't elicit any useful info. Maybe not something people will generally have in their toolkit?
Ian
RepRapPro tech support

Kim probably meant "shank" but his ship got hit by a rogue wave as he was typing!

Dave
(#106)

I think my glasses were steamed up at the time.... Either that, or the Brain was thinking of Mc Ds and the fingers were doing the typing.....



I'm getting 100% perfect results with my new mod for setting the Z-axis BTW.... Still going to wait a couple of days to make sure thou.
It was the Best £1.75 I've spent in ages, except for Milk Shakes thou...... But it has to be Strawberry.... Right Bed time.... been working all day and all night... The Brain is fuzzled....

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Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
I won't see comments in threads, as I move around to much.
Working Link to Big Blue 360 Complete

Quote
droftarts

If the brass union is tightened against the top of the stainless steel nozzle, it doesn't ever seem to move; it's like locking two nuts together. But yes, you could threadlock it too. I'm just not sure how threadlock copes with heat.

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

Ian
I agree with you about locking the nut. Thread lock is definetly not going to help you because that is the way to remove locknut bolts,Locktite data simply heat it with a blow torch and remove. Some special high temperature, e.g. Locktite 2620, threadlock will work but unlikely that most people will have some at home.

Quote
droftarts
Thanks for the feedback. The 'drill down the tube' was suggested by someone on the forum. I forget who, so if anyone remembers, please let me know, and I'll credit them.

Looking Good.

The drill (or actuall 2 mm rod) was suggested by Erik (ormerod168) I believe. See the post here

regards
Andy

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Ormerod #318
www.zoomworks.org - Free and Open Source Stuff

Thanks Andy, I spent a while trying to find that thread! I found that it's pretty difficult to thread the whole 10mm onto the PTFE if you leave the drill in, so it's easiest to pull the rod out once the thread has started. Though it does mean drilling it afterwards, which I now see Erik didn't need to do. Also, now the cooling block is used later in the hot end build, you can use it for threading the PTFE, and it's much kinder on the fingers than the tapered brass nut!

Thanks Erik, I'll credit you next time I'm editing the instructions.

Ian
RepRapPro tech support