Nozzle/bed clearance

I finally got to the point of trying my first print yesterday.



Unfortunately, I could not get the filament to stick properly to the kapton tape.

But as soon as the print passed under the IR sensor, it pulled it off anyway.

When I measure with a piece of paper, it seems that the nozzle and the sensor are at the same level giving no clearance for the sensor.

If I loosen the bearing that runs on the a axis so the hotend will hang lower, then the fan duct hits first.

Could I have done something wrong in construction?

Can I add some washers under the insulator to make the hotend a mm or so lower?

Rob.

Hi Rob, Welcome...
YES you can add washers there that will give you extra clearance. I think most of us have had that same problem.
(I used a bit of wood at one stage).
You will find that the reading from the I.R.Probe will lower because it will be higher from the surface afterwards, so you will have to set the probe up again.
Here's the link to a modified Nozzle Mount you might like to use... It increases the clearance by 1mm Modified Nozzle Mount

I've actualy done away with my probe totaly now for just that reason, as to many times I lost the begining of a good print because it would pickup the Skirt of a print and drag it in to the nozzle. You'll find the thread of how to do away with the probe here if you want to do it....Going Probeless.

Kim

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Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
I won't see comments in threads, as I move around to much.
Working Link to Big Blue 360 Complete

Thanks Kim, I appreciate the assistance.

Will give the washers a try.

I did read your probeless post and this is on my agenda when I get to the stage of printing some new parts!

Rob.

Adjust the bearing so that the hot end is level. Then check how high above the nozzle the fan duct and IR sensor are. You need about 1mm clearance. If the IR sensor is too low, you can adjust its height a little because the screw holes in the sensor board are quite large. If that is not enough then use washers under the nozzle mount. If the fan duct is too low then you can sand the bottom down.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Check that the brass union that is screwed into the aluminium cooling block in the hot end is screwed right in. This sets the nozzle height relative to the fan duct and sensor. Also check that the MDF spacer is between the cooling block and the nozzle mount. Then, as others have said, make sure the hot end is vertical; both the fan ducts and the proximity sensor should be between 1 and 2mm above the nozzle tip when vertical.

It could be that your bed is a long way out of level with the X axis, and the proximity sensor is touching down first. Look at the printer from the Y motor end; if the Z axis is leaning back, or the bed is dropping down at the front, this will happen. The bed compensation is best used for small amounts of compensation, so it's best to get the bed mechanically as close to level with the X axis first. Check all the bolts that connect the axes to one another are tight; if they are loose, the axes may not be held at 90 degrees to one another.

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

Thanks Ian, I will try all that tomorrow.

I did do bed compensation and did have about .4mm difference at opposite ends of Y axis.

Today I ordered the aluminium parts for X rib and bed, so I guess this will help.

Rob.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/12/2014 05:36AM by robbycar.

I have a different method for gaining the extra height. There is clearance bertween the edge of the fan and the duct, so I elongated the holes in the duct which meant I could set it a bit higher.