forgot bed heating during printing

Hallo,

by one gcode-file I have a problem: after about tree centimeters of Z the bed stop heating, the temperature down to 38° C and then first pice release from bed . After two tries with error I printed the four pices separatly (and many other things) without problems. So I don't need the printing-result, but I want to hear if someone have this problem too - or better: If anybody have a solution.
I don't know if it is a firmware-problem (I use 059-dc42 firmware and it worked fine for all other files).

The file is in zipped version to large to attach. You can download from
4-piece-1-2-3-4.zip

Not wonder: My nozzle-thermistor shows lower temperature than it is. Thus printing temperatur (195° C) is O.K. for me (using PLA).

with regards
freerap

I can't think of any mechanism thing that would cause this in the firmware. I'll try that print when I have time. How long do you expect it to take?

It's possible that there is a bad connection somewhere and the 12V feed to the heated bed is dropping enough to affect the bed heating but not so much as to effect the stepper motors. I assume you are using the standard ribbon cable to feed the heated bed. Have you checked the 12V screw terminals on the Duet board and ATX board for tightness recently?

You can connect for temperature inaccuracy using the M305 command.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Hallo dc42,

Quote
dc42
I'll try that print when I have time. How long do you expect it to take?

Many of thanks. With my parameter the whole print does about 2,5 h, but it fails after about 45 min for me.

Quote
dc42
It's possible that there is a bad connection somewhere and the 12V feed to the heated bed is dropping enough to affect the bed heating but not so much as to effect the stepper motors. I assume you are using the standard ribbon cable to feed the heated bed. Have you checked the 12V screw terminals on the Duet board and ATX board for tightness recently?

All hardware seams O.K.. By failing the print I can instantly press heat-buttun and the bed will warming up. (Yes, I use the standard ribbon cable.)

Quote
dc42
You can connect for temperature inaccuracy using the M305 command.

Thanks for this hint.

With regards
freerap

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/15/2014 09:33AM by freerap.

I tried that print yesterday. It got to a height of 16mm before the x-carriage slid off the linear bearing. I'll try it again today with a new x-carriage.

I noticed that the print speed was very high and the print quality poor. I have a few suggestions to your slic3r settings to improve things:

* Use a longer skirt length, e.g. 2 loops or a minimum amount to extrude. Also space the skirt further away from the print (except when doing a very large print) so that loose bits left over from starting the skirt are less likely to end up on the print.

* Reducing the first layer speed to 50% of what you currently have will improve adhesion.

* Use 4mm retraction, not 2mm.

* Use a lower temperature. I used 195C first layer and 190C remaining layers, but it was still stringy. I'll try 185C remaining layers next time.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I've started printing it again. I'm printing direct on glass, so I removed the bed temperature commands from the file and set the bed temperature to 68C manually before printing. I used the M220 S50 command to reduce the speed to 50% for the first 2 layers, and I've now reduced the temperature to 185C. I'm using firmware 0.59a-dc42 and web interface 0.76.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Print completed.



It's rather blobby because the retraction is too little and the temperature to high, at least for my filament/printer.

What is it? Should I glue the pieces together and blow through it?

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Looks a bit like this

recorder

Hallo dc42,

many of thanks for all your replys. The speedvalues I copied from
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?340,348239 (answer from zombiepantslol)
and it works realy good. The default speed result seams not better for me.

Increasing retraction to 4 mm is a good idea. I will try it. In the past sometimes a print was interrupt by lose the traction of filament. Perhaps this mistake will vanish by this too.

Decrease the print-temperature is a other good option I will try. The proof of the pudding is in the eating.

Quote
dc42
Print completed.

What is it? Should I glue the pieces together and blow through it?

Yes this is a sopranino-flute from
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:78899
It's realy work - but my first one not loudly enough.

with regards
freerap

Hallo bobtidey,

Quote
bobtidey
Looks a bit like this

recorder

Thank you. That's another interesting thing.

with regards
freerap

Quote
dc42
I tried that print yesterday. It got to a height of 16mm before the x-carriage slid off the linear bearing. I'll try it again today with a new x-carriage....

I made a groove in mine, cut one turn of a spring and placed it in the groove to secure the bearing from moving and to help wrap the x-carriage around the bearing, grove 1.5mm, distance from edge 5mm, spring wire D1,5mm, spring inner D23mm

you can make the groove with a file or two hacksaw blades taped together (did)

Instead of a spring you could use piano wire and twist the ends

disclaimer: the mod do not work with the original proximity probe installed





Erik

Thanks, that's a nice idea! I'll modify my replacement x-carriage design to include a groove. I guess locking wire would be an alternative to a turn of a spring.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42
...I guess locking wire would be an alternative to a turn of a spring.

Yes or one turn of a keyring, they come in all sizes - strange, I did not even think of that hunting around for a proper spring size...

Erik

I drilled a vertical hole (in the sensor area) so that part of a paperclip slid down the hole and into the groove in the bearing - locks it perfectly, and is easy to remove when needed.
Greg

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Ormerod #17