Removing pins from connector?

Hello,

I would like to exchange the fan. I have the new one already here, but how I can remove the pins from the connector? Te connectivity offers a tool, but I think it is too expensive (for using it only one time). Is there another possibility?

Kind regards,

Sven

You could cut the old fan wires a few cm from the connector and solder the new ones to them, using some heatshrink sleeving to insulate the connections.

Or (warning: shameless plug coming up!) you could buy one of my hot end boards, which uses a different sort of connector, more reliable in my experience and easily dismantled without a special tool (a very small screwdriver or the point of a knife blade is sufficient). You can also disconnect the fan, heater and thermistor separately, making it easier to switch between different fans etc.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42
You could cut the old fan wires a few cm from the connector and solder the new ones to them, using some heatshrink sleeving to insulate the connections.

That was my first idea, but I would prefer not to have another "connection". Maybe it is because I am an electrical engineer. I did this quite often but I am not very happy with this.

Regarding your hot end board. I am seriously thinking of it, but my ormerod is younger than a month. So I am a little bit disappointed that the fan is beginning to fail yet. Maybe in July or August I am going to buy one. I do not know how long the delivery would be, but getting the spare parts (y-idler-bracket and z-idler-bracket) was faster than I thought. Less than one week.

One small last question: You mounted an air duct to your fan. I am still using this too, especially for my ABS filament and maybe I need this for my unmanageable PLA filament, but the hotend airduct from iamburny does not need this anymore or am I wrong? I have exactly the same fan here (with 7.7CFM and much quieter) like iamburny and his airduct should not have this backwash?!

Quote
Treito
One small last question: You mounted an air duct to your fan. I am still using this too, especially for my ABS filament and maybe I need this for my unmanageable PLA filament, but the hotend airduct from iamburny does not need this anymore or am I wrong? I have exactly the same fan here (with 7.7CFM and much quieter) like iamburny and his airduct should not have this backwash?!

I have used iamburny's one-piece heatsink/fan duct in the past, but I didn't try it without the fan inlet duct. My guess is that you would still get some backwash, but probably less than with the original heatsink duct and fan duct.

Before I fitted the inlet duct, I twice cut my finger on the rotating fan blades. So I value the inlet duct as a finger guard too.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42
So I value the inlet duct as a finger guard too.

Maybe this would be a good idea even though I did not manage to cut my fingers, but it should be only a question of time. (To get the fan working, I have to stop it some times, by pressing on the middle of the fan, so the bearing "refreshes" itself. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!)
But I did brake one clamp of the inlet duct. With the original heatsink/fan duct the hot-end is unluckily not able to bypass the duet enclosure.

I am seriously wondering why there are so many mostly little problems. Did not anybody recognized the backwash problem during engineering? It would be much better if I exchange the fan, because it has lower air flow and the new heatsink/fan duct better concentrates the flow. But first I have to be able to print this item with ABS. For some reasons the extruder itself fails to print. But I am working on it (with propably no solution in the near future).

I had the same problem, but RepRap replaced by fan under warrantee.

I could do this also, but the fan is very noisy and I do not have the impression that it is a good quality one. As soon as I have manged to print the missing parts in ABS (but the last parts have been failing so far), I would like to exchanges the fan with a better model.

Quote
Treito
But I did brake one clamp of the inlet duct. With the original heatsink/fan duct the hot-end is unluckily not able to bypass the duet enclosure.

You mean like this?



You can find the design here [github.com]. I had trouble with the clips breaking off too, so this one uses 50mm M3 countersunk screws to hold everything together. Thanks to Andy (kwikius) for the original design.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

No, I had another problem.
I am still using the original two part component. The "head" cannot move fully in x-direction because it cannot pass the duet enclosure and the motor makes loud noises. So I have to clip the inlet duct on the fan after homing the axes. I have already downloaded your design, but I am unable to print the extruder and the part from iamburny yet. So it does not make any sense to use your fan duct. I think I am giving up for today and go sadly to bed and maybe I am dreaming of your hotend board.

Treito, I am using the original 2-part heatsink duct + fan duct too. I made Andy's inlet duct design thinner so that it can pass behind the Duet box. The other thing that helps is to slide the Duet box to the end of the Y extrusion after you have rotated the end T-nut into position - this gains a few extra mm.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Without stating the obvious, if the fan is hitting the Duet enclosure, even after DCs suggestion of moving the enclosure as far to the end of the metal extrusion, then you should check the measurements for the mounting of the Z axis. Did you check the measurements shown in the photos towards the end of the section titled "Connecting the Z axis assembly to the Y axis assembly" in the construction manual. The last few pictures show the measurements needed. I had the same problem after ignoring these steps and had to take the printer apart to move the Z axis away from the enclosure by 4mm.

One option is to print a new Duet case (such as this one, or the one by appjaws1 available somewhere here on these forums) which moves it further away, making lots more room.

I would prefer option 2: Using iamburny's onepiece hotfan duct. That gives also some extra space.
At the moment the fan can pass the duet enclosure, but there are only some millimeters left, so I would not have any chance to mount any fan duct.

You can in fact mount the original duet enclosure using one of the y stepper mount holes. It is a bit wonky to look at but who cares



Then you have quite a lot more room for the fan cover.

regards
Andy

---

Ormerod #318
www.zoomworks.org - Free and Open Source Stuff

Quote
Treito
At the moment the fan can pass the duet enclosure, but there are only some millimeters left, so I would not have any chance to mount any fan duct.

It sounds to me that either you have not mounted the Z axis at the correct position along the Y extrusion, or you do not have the Duet box as far towards the Y motor as it will go.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Or my of two parts existing (and original delivered) hotfan duct is a little bit warped. There is a space of round about 3mm between both parts at one side.

I exchanged the fan and now it is really quiet. But it is not that easy. I cut off the old fan (and tested it without any mounting and the bearing is definitely broken. Does this happen often?) and soldered the new fan to the old wires and used heatshrink sleeving. But the new fan has no possibility to counter sink (or how is it called?) so the heads of the screws are on the top of the fan. But it seems to work perfectly. No need for an extra fan duct (which reduces the flow rate a lot).

Quote
Treito
But the new fan has no possibility to counter sink (or how is it called?) so the heads of the screws are on the top of the fan.

Some of the original fans supplied by RRP (including the one I received) are like that too.

Quote
Treito
But it seems to work perfectly. No need for an extra fan duct (which reduces the flow rate a lot).

1. Do you have any evidence that your inlet duct reduced the airflow? The airflow resistance provided by the heatsink and the heatsink/fan ducting is greater than the supplied fans were designed for, which is why there is so much backwash from them. A well-designed inlet duct should increase the airflow, by better matching the angle of the incoming air to the blade pitch, and so partly compensating for that.

2. Do you really have no backwash at all from the new fan? If so, can you share the make & model?

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42
1. Do you have any evidence that your inlet duct reduced the airflow? The airflow resistance provided by the heatsink and the heatsink/fan ducting is greater than the supplied fans were designed for, which is why there is so much backwash from them. A well-designed inlet duct should increase the airflow, by better matching the angle of the incoming air to the blade pitch, and so partly compensating for that.

I tested it when it was not installed. When I put the duct fan on the fan, I felt that the flow was lower.

Quote
dc42
2. Do you really have no backwash at all from the new fan? If so, can you share the make & model?

I am testing this at the moment. I am still having problems with ABS, but now I seem to have much less warp and I have no fan duct installed. Before exchanging the fan the ABS was not able to stick well on the bed. Much strange: At the moment the printing fails because the extruder crashes into the build and cannot move so the motor is stuttering then! (Printing on Kapton tape). Before that the extruder took the building with itself and presented the building the world.
I should mention that I am not using the original heatsink/fan ducting anymore. There was a thread and iamburny mentioned the model and presented his part. It is not the fan, I would prefer, but there was no fan with the configuration I would have liked to have, but it seems to be okay.

So here the technical data:

The heat/fan duct you can find here:
One piece hot end air duct

The fan is from sunon, model no.: EB40201S2-000U-999
Datasheet of fan

But if possible you should prefer: MB40201V2-000U-A99 (better bearing)
Fan models overview

As you can see at the last link, there are fans with a higher flow rate but less noise than the delivered one.

If you are printing ABS, then the advice seems to be that you should block off the fan outlet ducts and provide an alternative escape for the exhaust air away from the print. There have been a few threads about this and some have included alternative designs for the ducts, for example [forums.reprap.org].

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42
If you are printing ABS, then the advice seems to be that you should block off the fan outlet ducts and provide an alternative escape for the exhaust air away from the print. There have been a few threads about this and some have included alternative designs for the ducts, for example [forums.reprap.org].

... or just remove the nozzle duct part of the fan duct. The fan will then blow horizontally away from the x-axis. You can remove both fan parts, and fit a smaller 10mm thick fan too, which is how we ship the same hot end for our Mendel printers. Then air escapes either side, along the X axis.

Make sure you read the ABS printing guide: [reprappro.com]

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

Quote
droftarts
... or just remove the nozzle duct part of the fan duct.

I am very sorry, but I did not understand this. Which part should I remove?

Quote
droftarts
You can remove both fan parts, and fit a smaller 10mm thick fan too, which is how we ship the same hot end for our Mendel printers.

And mounting the hotend directly to the fan?

Quote
droftarts
Make sure you read the ABS printing guide: [reprappro.com]

Of course I did read the guide. That is why I am stucked printing the extruder and the hotend fan duct. All other parts are ready and waiting for the exchange.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/25/2014 11:29AM by Treito.

Treito, the Mendel hot end is supplied like this, with no fan duct:


You can remove one, or both parts, of the fan duct on the Ormerod, if you don't want any air blowing onto the print, and mount the fan directly on heatsink (not the hot end).

Ian
RepRapPro tech support