correct way to change the infill for a small part? advise needed please

Hi there, hope someone could point me in the right direction.

I have a small part I'm printing, now the top tube wall is very thin. with the standard slicer settings, the tube fails, the print stops. what is the recommended changes I should consider?

should I make the infill 1.0 ? or 0.0? or use Concentric infill?

your advice will be greatly appreciated.

thanks,
Derrick

Usually Slic3r does small things with solid infill no matter what, due to the "Solid infill threshold area". As soon as one closed surface is smaller than that, it will be solid (as long as it is supposed to have any infill whatsoever).

What do you mean by tube fails and print stops? Does the tube collapse or something?

Hi thanks for the response.

it just stops printing, but it goes "bananas" to try and fil between the two small circles of the tube and then just stops. so I thought I could force it to be solid, or hollow?

thanks,
Derrick

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/21/2014 09:15AM by Derrick_SA.

To force it to be solid, try increasing the number of perimeters in slic3r.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/21/2014 09:18AM by dc42.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

thanks DC42, gonna try that now.

Ok, so the print finnished, but the top circles did not close completely, any tips on why that could be would be appreciated. sorry, learning the whole 3d print thing now.

thanks,
Derrick

What have you got for settings in top and bottom solid layers?

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Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
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Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
Derrick_SA
Ok, so the print finnished, but the top circles did not close completely, any tips on why that could be would be appreciated. sorry, learning the whole 3d print thing now.

How many perimeters did you specify in slic3r, and what is the wall thickness of the tube? If you are using the standard extrusion width of 0.5mm, then I think you should be OK if the wall thickness is a multiple of 0.5mm and the number of perimeters it at least as great as the wall thickness in mm. For example, a 2.5mm wall thickness with at least 3 perimeters specified should be printed as 5 concentric circles.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

aaah, that makes sense. I'll make the changes now and try again!

thanks very much for the help!

- Derrick

so the wall is 0.5mm now,

so gonna try 5 for the perimeters, 5 for top solid, leave bottom solid to 3 layers. layer height at 0.24mm

Looking at the prints I think you might need to check the tightness of the belts. To stop it going mad when it tries to fill small areas you should look at the value 'Gap Fill' in Slic3r, this slows the printer down when doing small fills and stops the 'madness'. [manual.slic3r.org]

Thanks BryanG! gonna look at that also. that could be the setting I've been hunting for. I would love to get settings for KISSlicer. Can anyone point me in the right direction perhaps?

I'm thinking I'm gonna build a new frame for my printer. more stable bed also that can level easier, and maybe add a bearing and support to the top of the Z-rod. Maybe then incorporate a better belt locking plan also. though I think my belts are pretty good now.

Also build a case for it with a lightbulb in maybe to make the inside temp more stable maybe? I have all the CNC laser cutting and bending machines. so could be fun to do he he.

- Derrick

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/22/2014 07:40AM by Derrick_SA.