Tall-merod
Posted by droftarts
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Tall-merod June 21, 2014 05:09PM |
I've been talking about building a tall printer for ages, and finally got around to it. It's done a few small prints, but this is the first tall thing... 340mm, to be exact! And it still has about 40mm spare... Model boat hulls, Eiffel tower, Big Ben, Statue of Liberty, Nelson's column have all been suggested as the next print - any other suggestions?!
The yellow spiky vase is the tallest thing we could build on a Tricolour Mendel - it's 140mm tall.
Ian
RepRapPro tech support
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/21/2014 05:12PM by droftarts.
The yellow spiky vase is the tallest thing we could build on a Tricolour Mendel - it's 140mm tall.
Ian
RepRapPro tech support
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/21/2014 05:12PM by droftarts.
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Re: Tall-merod June 22, 2014 12:23AM |
Quote
droftarts
... as the next print - any other suggestions?!
http://www.amrc.co.uk/featuredstudy/printed-uav/
(From the pic, looks like it was printed vertically)
regards
Andy
Ormerod #318
www.zoomworks.org - Free and Open Source Stuff
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Re: Tall-merod June 22, 2014 04:26AM |
Personally, I would lean towards making the bed drop for the Z axis and putting the extruder on a x/y gantry, pretty much like my CNC plasma table but with added z drop.
That way, all axes are pretty firm and stable. I would not even think of mounting an ormerod z axis on a trolley, too unstable.
That tall print is pretty impressive though
Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world
Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.
That way, all axes are pretty firm and stable. I would not even think of mounting an ormerod z axis on a trolley, too unstable.
That tall print is pretty impressive though
Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world
Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.
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Re: Tall-merod June 22, 2014 05:07AM |
Hi Ian,
I am preparing the third ....high ....
[www.dropbox.com]
200x200x450
Dario
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/22/2014 05:28AM by Ormerod187.
Ormerod 187
Firmware Electronics: Duet 0.6
Firmware Version:1.18.1 (2017-04-07)
Web Interface Version:1.15a
Slic3r 1.2.9a and Simplify3D 4.0.0
[www.dropbox.com]
I am preparing the third ....high ....
[www.dropbox.com]
200x200x450
Dario
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/22/2014 05:28AM by Ormerod187.
Ormerod 187
Firmware Electronics: Duet 0.6
Firmware Version:1.18.1 (2017-04-07)
Web Interface Version:1.15a
Slic3r 1.2.9a and Simplify3D 4.0.0
[www.dropbox.com]
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Re: Tall-merod June 22, 2014 07:39AM |
Andy - Nice, now I need a wider printing printer too!
Treth - It's pretty easy to extend the Z axis, just longer extrusion from [www.kjnltd.co.uk], smooth rod [www.worldofcnc.com] and M5 leadscrew, which I unfortunately bought from toolstation, and has a thread pitch of 0.825mm rather than 0.8mm! Then it's just changing the volume size (M208 Z400). I could change the Z homing macro too, but it's better to move it down first - homing is really slow if you do it from the top!
I've attached the openscad and stl file of the part I use to strengthen the connection between the Y and Z axis. It just holds two M4x10mm countersunk screws, with T-nuts on the end. It slides into the end of the Z axis, and connects to the Y axis. You need to put it on before the z-lower-mount and z-motor. To access the countersunk screws, you need to drill two holes through the aluminium extrusion. You can use the part as a drill guide, too. The holes are not shown in the attached picture, but come in from the back of the vertical extrusion. Also printed in black, so not very clear what it does!
Dario - bah, that's bigger than mine! Well done, looks good. For Ormerod 2 (not long now...) we're mounting a very similar PSU (no more ATX) in a very similar place.
Erik - There are many different ways of orientating the axes, and for a normal Cartesian robot it always means stacking at least one axis on top of another at some point. So we stack the X on Z, with the Y separate, as it seems to be the most efficient and lightweight way of doing it. Other printers stack X on Y for the bed, with Z separate for the extruder (Velleman, original Makerbot Cupcake) or have the bed move in Z and the nozzle move in X and Y (current Makerbot, Ultimaker). Most of these need a lot of structure to contain forces; the X and Y axes have to be braced against each other when they are mounted on each other. Generally we try and minimise the stacking of axes, so that there isn't interaction between them, and it's always a compromise. There are a number of other types of machines that use their axes in different ways - Delta, SCARA and the like (one of my favourites is the Simpson [reprap.org] and LISA Simpson [reprap.org] ) - but each generally has some drawback. Not to say Ormerod is perfect - just it's the compromise we chose!
Ian
RepRapPro tech support
Treth - It's pretty easy to extend the Z axis, just longer extrusion from [www.kjnltd.co.uk], smooth rod [www.worldofcnc.com] and M5 leadscrew, which I unfortunately bought from toolstation, and has a thread pitch of 0.825mm rather than 0.8mm! Then it's just changing the volume size (M208 Z400). I could change the Z homing macro too, but it's better to move it down first - homing is really slow if you do it from the top!
I've attached the openscad and stl file of the part I use to strengthen the connection between the Y and Z axis. It just holds two M4x10mm countersunk screws, with T-nuts on the end. It slides into the end of the Z axis, and connects to the Y axis. You need to put it on before the z-lower-mount and z-motor. To access the countersunk screws, you need to drill two holes through the aluminium extrusion. You can use the part as a drill guide, too. The holes are not shown in the attached picture, but come in from the back of the vertical extrusion. Also printed in black, so not very clear what it does!
Dario - bah, that's bigger than mine! Well done, looks good. For Ormerod 2 (not long now...) we're mounting a very similar PSU (no more ATX) in a very similar place.
Erik - There are many different ways of orientating the axes, and for a normal Cartesian robot it always means stacking at least one axis on top of another at some point. So we stack the X on Z, with the Y separate, as it seems to be the most efficient and lightweight way of doing it. Other printers stack X on Y for the bed, with Z separate for the extruder (Velleman, original Makerbot Cupcake) or have the bed move in Z and the nozzle move in X and Y (current Makerbot, Ultimaker). Most of these need a lot of structure to contain forces; the X and Y axes have to be braced against each other when they are mounted on each other. Generally we try and minimise the stacking of axes, so that there isn't interaction between them, and it's always a compromise. There are a number of other types of machines that use their axes in different ways - Delta, SCARA and the like (one of my favourites is the Simpson [reprap.org] and LISA Simpson [reprap.org] ) - but each generally has some drawback. Not to say Ormerod is perfect - just it's the compromise we chose!
Ian
RepRapPro tech support
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Re: Tall-merod June 23, 2014 10:35AM |
Quote
droftarts
Andy - Nice, now I need a wider printing printer too!
t
Maybe not. You could chop it into a couple of sections ( so the leading edge part at the root is one section and the trailing edeg part is the other)
Where the two sections meet would be a good place to put a spar.. I've already done the design
Ormerod #318
www.zoomworks.org - Free and Open Source Stuff
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Re: Tall-merod July 05, 2014 11:14AM |
After seeing the post in RRP's news I just knew I had to get in on this, I've bought smooth rods, aluminium extrusions and an M5 leadscrew (not sure of pitch until it turns up) for both Y and Z extensions. Might print up some kind of fancy folding tray to deal with the slack wires coming down from the X arm.
Just started looking at getting a 24V PSU to give a bigger heatbed some more grunt - what are the implications of this for the Duet and other components? dc42 mentioned replacing the cartridge heater and fan with 24V versions, does that mean the Duet can handle stepping down a supply of 24V for the electronics while passing 24V to the heaters/fan?
Then there's the heatbed and glass - currently pondering this as a cheap bed extension: ebay, but I have no idea where to get some glass from. I'm assuming it needs to be a particular heat resistant type. Has anyone got the spec for it (/Droftarts where do you get yours?).
Also considering ways to mount a lerger heated bed, at the very least a new aluminium bed support plate is in order. Currently using the one davek had made up.
I'm eyeing up davek's X-arm upgrade on ebay since I'm doing all this other work...
Any help greatly appreciated
Just started looking at getting a 24V PSU to give a bigger heatbed some more grunt - what are the implications of this for the Duet and other components? dc42 mentioned replacing the cartridge heater and fan with 24V versions, does that mean the Duet can handle stepping down a supply of 24V for the electronics while passing 24V to the heaters/fan?
Then there's the heatbed and glass - currently pondering this as a cheap bed extension: ebay, but I have no idea where to get some glass from. I'm assuming it needs to be a particular heat resistant type. Has anyone got the spec for it (/Droftarts where do you get yours?).
Also considering ways to mount a lerger heated bed, at the very least a new aluminium bed support plate is in order. Currently using the one davek had made up.
I'm eyeing up davek's X-arm upgrade on ebay since I'm doing all this other work...
Any help greatly appreciated
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