Thanks Treito, good explanation of the issue.

It definitely takes more than 10mins to fit, took me about an hour as I wanted to get everything set just so, no point in rushing this stuff.

I am nearly at the point where I can start another batch.

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Dave,

Got any left from this batch?

Thanks,
Ralph

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/30/2016 12:09PM by rjmusto.

Hi

no but i can put your name on the list for the next batch.

Should not be long before i get enough interest to get going now.


Dave

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Hi Dave

I don't know how easy it would be to do and I hope you don't think me rude to say, but would it be an idea to lose the cut out for the z idler washer and nut and put it as a threaded hole?

I have included a pic of where i mean circled in red

what do you think?

Steve

Dave - yes please. Thanks. R

Quote
steve0-uk
Hi Dave

I don't know how easy it would be to do and I hope you don't think me rude to say, but would it be an idea to lose the cut out for the z idler washer and nut and put it as a threaded hole?

I have included a pic of where i mean circled in red

what do you think?

Steve

Hi

Not rude of course, sensible question.

The drawing was taken from the original acrylic parts so yes that cutout could very easily be replaced with a tapped hole.

What does everyone else here feel - is there any drawback to swapping the nut cutout for a tapped hole???

Dave

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
rjmusto
Dave - yes please. Thanks. R

Hi

Yes you would like an arm kit or yes you would like me to remove the nut cutout, or both ??

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
Davek0974
Hi

Not rude of course, sensible question.

The drawing was taken from the original acrylic parts so yes that cutout could very easily be replaced with a tapped hole.

What does everyone else here feel - is there any drawback to swapping the nut cutout for a tapped hole???

Dave

glad you are OK with it, the only drawback I can think of is that that hole is bigger than the fixing screws to hold the 2 parts together meaning the rib might need to be thicker to be able to take the thread

I guess it would make the tool path simpler as it wont need to cut that bit out


Steve

Quote
Davek0974

..What does everyone else here feel - is there any drawback to swapping the nut cutout for a tapped hole???

Dave

Your first edition (for ormerod1) was made that way, no problems with those

Erik

Quote
ormerod168

Quote
Davek0974

..What does everyone else here feel - is there any drawback to swapping the nut cutout for a tapped hole???

Dave

Your first edition (for ormerod1) was made that way, no problems with those

Erik

Really? It was a long while back, cant remember the first batch now

I will remove the slot and fit a threaded hole then.

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
Davek0974

Quote
ormerod168

Quote
Davek0974

..What does everyone else here feel - is there any drawback to swapping the nut cutout for a tapped hole???

Dave

Your first edition (for ormerod1) was made that way, no problems with those

Erik

Really? It was a long while back, cant remember the first batch now

I will remove the slot and fit a threaded hole then.

put me down of one on your next batch Dave

Just a thought,
That little bolt (nut cut-out) slot is to me a sign that's been made the rap-rap way with laser cutter or any other method.
Adding/replacing it with a tapped hole just adds another process for manufacturer. Can't see the reason for a threaded hole.

---

Supporting 3D Printers with Parts and Build services.
Printer: Ormerod 2 (528.4) Duel extruder set-up with Aluminium X-Rib, RRPro Firmware v1.11-ch (2016-04-08)

Quote
steve0-uk

Quote
Davek0974

Quote
ormerod168

Quote
Davek0974

..What does everyone else here feel - is there any drawback to swapping the nut cutout for a tapped hole???

Dave

Your first edition (for ormerod1) was made that way, no problems with those

Erik

Really? It was a long while back, cant remember the first batch now

I will remove the slot and fit a threaded hole then.

put me down of one on your next batch Dave

Will do, thanks, I think we are just about there with the pre-orders now

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
orictosh
Just a thought,
That little bolt (nut cut-out) slot is to me a sign that's been made the rap-rap way with laser cutter or any other method.
Adding/replacing it with a tapped hole just adds another process for manufacturer. Can't see the reason for a threaded hole.

Looking at it that way, all the holes could be replaced with slots - no threads to tap at all then.

I am open minded as to what is best here, whats the general consensus - leave as-is, replace with threaded hole, replace all threads with slots?

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
Davek0974

Quote
orictosh
Just a thought,
That little bolt (nut cut-out) slot is to me a sign that's been made the rap-rap way with laser cutter or any other method.
Adding/replacing it with a tapped hole just adds another process for manufacturer. Can't see the reason for a threaded hole.

Looking at it that way, all the holes could be replaced with slots - no threads to tap at all then.

I am open minded as to what is best here, whats the general consensus - leave as-is, replace with threaded hole, replace all threads with slots?

i'd rather the threaded hole, but i'll go with the majority vote

Quote
Davek0974
Looking at it that way, all the holes could be replaced with slots - no threads to tap at all then.

I am open minded as to what is best here, whats the general consensus - leave as-is, replace with threaded hole, replace all threads with slots?

the function of the x-rib is to make/keep the x-axis-plate straight (wider is better) - or to put it another way, the x-axis plate should follow the line of the x-rib, not the other way around



Erik

Ok, so that says replace the slot with a tapped hole then, makes sense.

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Could you put me down for the next batch also please

Quote
andynxn
Could you put me down for the next batch also please

Yes of course, should be starting this week

Will let everyone know

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
ormerod168

Quote
Davek0974
Looking at it that way, all the holes could be replaced with slots - no threads to tap at all then.

I am open minded as to what is best here, whats the general consensus - leave as-is, replace with threaded hole, replace all threads with slots?

the function of the x-rib is to make/keep the x-axis-plate straight (wider is better) - or to put it another way, the x-axis plate should follow the line of the x-rib, not the other way around

[attachment 71340 x-rib.JPG]

Erik

Seems that picture is incorrect, as the x-rib which is fitted to my printer shows a bump behind the bolt hole, can't exactly remember when it was ordered but it's no longer than 6 months. I should be able to check the paper work and report back.

---

Supporting 3D Printers with Parts and Build services.
Printer: Ormerod 2 (528.4) Duel extruder set-up with Aluminium X-Rib, RRPro Firmware v1.11-ch (2016-04-08)

I hope I can fetch up my X-arm this evening. On one side I regret not to have the newer idea without the slot, but at least: For what? In my eyes there is no difference. Also the treaded holes could be slots. I guess this could maybe reduce the manufacturing costs.

But I would like to reask for the polish. Is there no coating on the kit? Could I use some normal car polish?

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

That bump has now gone as it was only there to reinforce the weaker acrylic part where the nut slot was.

I will start a new batch now as we have enough interest, the slot has been replaced with a threaded hole, again this appeared to only be there because you cannot easily thread acrylic parts, aluminium is far easier to work with so the new batch will have no bump and no nut slot.

For polishing aluminium use a fairly aggressive polish like Brasso or Solvite Autosol for cars (not that theres much to polish on a modern car!) - both of these will work but be warned, when you polish aluminium you will get covered in black muck so best use rubber gloves and put some newspaper down

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Does anyone have a picture showing the polished version?

I am glad now to have the bump. Maybe I will test a design for a mechanical z-probe and depending on the design you could use the bump for homing the x-axis, too.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

HI again

As we have now started the next batch of X-arm kits, could I please ask all those that expressed an interest to head on over to my shop

X-ARM KITS HERE

and place their order as they are fist-come-first-served and batch is limited qty.

I would expect dispatch to be within two weeks.

Many thanks

Dave

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
Treito
Does anyone have a picture showing the polished version?

polishing a spot on a spare x-arm as an example is easy, to make it show on a picture is the hard part - personally I prefer a brushed finish, much easier to repair



Erik

Did I say I am glad to have the bump? Forget about it.

Thanks Erik. First of all I wasn't sure if there is some sort of coating for protection. Why is a brushed surface easier to repair?
At least I haven't decided yet what is looking better.

Thanks Dave for the shim. It's okay for a new part, but for repairing my other one it would have been too thin. But I am curious. How this is called and how could I get it? It could be of interest for my own design, maybe.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Davek0974
HI again

As we have now started the next batch of X-arm kits, could I please ask all those that expressed an interest to head on over to my shop

X-ARM KITS HERE

and place their order as they are fist-come-first-served and batch is limited qty.

I would expect dispatch to be within two weeks.

Many thanks

Dave

Dave

can I be really cheeky, could you reserve mine for me please?

I get paid on the 15th of every month, I will pay you that morning as soon as I get to a computer

I'll throw in a bit extra for ya for the trouble

Quote
Treito
..Why is a brushed surface easier to repair?

Its a lot faster to apply and repair (brush or sand) a rougher surface than a mirror finish, I use P400 wet and dry sandpaper and sand along the x-arm (not in circles)

Quote

Thanks Dave for the shim. It's okay for a new part, but for repairing my other one it would have been too thin

Still got the 12.7 steel strap, my offer still stands if you are interested, the weight is 13gram, adding a cardboard tube for posting totals 70gram so could be send to Germany for €3....could ad a few drops of Loctite 648 but only if you say please :-)



Erik

Thanks for your offer. I would have expected that shipping costs are much higher, but the ruler wasn't expensive, too.
Besides like I said the delivered shim is totally okay as long as the surface is even. So I will use this shim as protection. It is only very thin, I would guess something about 0.1mm. It is equipped with adhesive already. I really would like to compare both solutions. Okay optically your shim would be the best solution as its width is the same like the height of the bottom line of the X-arm to the upper line of the X-thing at the front of the X-arm. That's offers of course a great optically experience. Seriously.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito

Thanks Dave for the shim. It's okay for a new part, but for repairing my other one it would have been too thin. But I am curious. How this is called and how could I get it? It could be of interest for my own design, maybe.

The tape is simply called shim tape, its used in my day-job which is die-cutting and printing, see if you have a printers supplies company near you, ask for self adhesive stainless shim tape, comes in two thicknesses - 0.1mm and 0.2mm, the one i use is 0.2mm.

If you get desperate i could get a price for a full roll over here and sell you it??

Dave

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/01/2016 03:18PM by Davek0974.

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.