Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board
Posted by dc42
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board May 13, 2015 05:15PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
I got somewhat delayed by real work, but I now have 10 dual nozzle boards and 7 mini boards nearing completion. I'll send the PayPal requests to those waiting for them tomorrow.
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board May 20, 2015 06:45AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
All existing orders for boards have been dispatched, except for one mini board that is not yet paid. I have another 4 partially-assembled dual nozzle boards that I can complete to order within a day or so.
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 10, 2015 02:41PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 638 |
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 10, 2015 04:01PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
The current production dual nozzle boards have a jumper to allow them to be used easily on single-nozzle machines. If you wish to order one, please send me a PM stating your PayPal email address and which country you will need it shipped to.
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 13, 2015 07:14AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 275 |
Hi dc42,
it was not a good start because I did not clean the extruder....
but you sensor board.... absolutely...it's the best!
[youtu.be]
Dario
Ormerod 187
Firmware Electronics: Duet 0.6
Firmware Version:1.18.1 (2017-04-07)
Web Interface Version:1.15a
Slic3r 1.2.9a and Simplify3D 4.0.0
[www.dropbox.com]
it was not a good start because I did not clean the extruder....
but you sensor board.... absolutely...it's the best!
[youtu.be]
Dario
Ormerod 187
Firmware Electronics: Duet 0.6
Firmware Version:1.18.1 (2017-04-07)
Web Interface Version:1.15a
Slic3r 1.2.9a and Simplify3D 4.0.0
[www.dropbox.com]
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 13, 2015 08:06AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
Quote
Ormerod187
Hi dc42,
it was not a good start because I did not clean the extruder....
but you sensor board.... absolutely...it's the best!
[youtu.be]
Thanks!
I have my homez and homeall files set to not drop the head to Z=0 after the G30 command, so that any filament oozing from the nozzle is unlikely to be deposited in the centre of the bed. Then I have the slic3r start gcode set to move the head to the edge of the bed while warming up. The result is than any ooze from the nozzle gets deposited on the skirt, where it is usually harmless.
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
|
Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 13, 2015 08:16AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 275 |
Quote
dc42
Quote
Ormerod187
Hi dc42,
it was not a good start because I did not clean the extruder....
but you sensor board.... absolutely...it's the best!
[youtu.be]
Thanks!
I have my homez and homeall files set to not drop the head to Z=0 after the G30 command, so that any filament oozing from the nozzle is unlikely to be deposited in the centre of the bed. Then I have the slic3r start gcode set to move the head to the edge of the bed while warming up. The result is than any ooze from the nozzle gets deposited on the skirt, where it is usually harmless.
Agree .....you are right
normally when I starting the extruder is empty but move the head to the edge of the bed it's the best
Thanks
Dario
Ormerod 187
Firmware Electronics: Duet 0.6
Firmware Version:1.18.1 (2017-04-07)
Web Interface Version:1.15a
Slic3r 1.2.9a and Simplify3D 4.0.0
[www.dropbox.com]
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 13, 2015 08:18AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Quote
dc42
...where it is usually harmless.
Hi dc,
I have other experiences like that. The ooze gets stuck on the skirt but during the printing of the first layer it may happen that the head or parts of the hot end hits the ooze and got lifted and your first layer is trash. That is way I clean the nozzle before start printing or - it is a small part - put the skirt far far away. An option would be nice to print the skirt outside and not aligned around the part.
Dario, you print directly on glass? With PLA? I am sometimes able to do this but it often fails. How do you do this? Bed temperature? PLA manufacturere? PLA temperature? Or is this maybe caused by the heat spreader?
Sven
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 13, 2015 08:25AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 638 |
Quote
Treito
Quote
dc42
...where it is usually harmless.
Hi dc,
I have other experiences like that. The ooze gets stuck on the skirt but during the printing of the first layer it may happen that the head or parts of the hot end hits the ooze and got lifted and your first layer is trash. That is way I clean the nozzle before start printing or - it is a small part - put the skirt far far away. An option would be nice to print the skirt outside and not aligned around the part.
Dario, you print directly on glass? With PLA? I am sometimes able to do this but it often fails. How do you do this? Bed temperature? PLA manufacturere? PLA temperature? Or is this maybe caused by the heat spreader?
Sven
With this filament( [3dfilaments.ie] ) i am able to print directly on glass at 65C(bed) and 195C first layer then 185C rest(hotend) with no problems , but i have to clean the bed really good with acetone. But i find it a bit "hairy" to print ,tiny strings all over the object where the head moves over gaps(the only downside of it atm).
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/13/2015 08:27AM by Darathy.
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 13, 2015 08:48AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Strange I have tried it with the blue sky and the red one. It may stick but it may not. The only difference is that I cleaned the glass with brake cleaner but the acetone free version. I do not want to damage printer parts. Maybe that is the deal? However I will try a new surface that is suitable for all kinds of plastic. I will report later.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 13, 2015 09:38AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 275 |
Hi all,
so... I am close to the goal.
The model on testing is 51.7mm. I got 51.28
maybe the filament or the slicing.... or.. I do not know!
[www.dropbox.com]
take a break [www.youtube.com]
any idea?
still testing
print on the glass is a long-proven methods of this forum...
take a look here.... filaments vary...[my3dmatter.com]
Dario
Ormerod 187
Firmware Electronics: Duet 0.6
Firmware Version:1.18.1 (2017-04-07)
Web Interface Version:1.15a
Slic3r 1.2.9a and Simplify3D 4.0.0
[www.dropbox.com]
so... I am close to the goal.
The model on testing is 51.7mm. I got 51.28
maybe the filament or the slicing.... or.. I do not know!
[www.dropbox.com]
take a break [www.youtube.com]
any idea?
still testing
print on the glass is a long-proven methods of this forum...
take a look here.... filaments vary...[my3dmatter.com]
Dario
Ormerod 187
Firmware Electronics: Duet 0.6
Firmware Version:1.18.1 (2017-04-07)
Web Interface Version:1.15a
Slic3r 1.2.9a and Simplify3D 4.0.0
[www.dropbox.com]
|
Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 13, 2015 10:06AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Probably it is a leveling problem. But ABS will not stick on glass even though HIPS seems to be better than PLA sticking on pure glass. But damn it I took a look on your table some hours ago because I am considering buying esun filament and the result on the table prevent me so I think I keep at Kiloplast even though I did not test PLA. This is going to be a little bit off-topic.
I like the light. (I love English - took -look; like -light). Is it only one color or can you play with the color?
Dario, I do not like this digital calipers. I had one and after zeroing and using it once it had an offset again of 0.02. Do you have any loose belt? I only get undersized models by 0.2mm in that dimensions. You should consider trying Slic3r 1.2.7.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
I like the light. (I love English - took -look; like -light). Is it only one color or can you play with the color?
Dario, I do not like this digital calipers. I had one and after zeroing and using it once it had an offset again of 0.02. Do you have any loose belt? I only get undersized models by 0.2mm in that dimensions. You should consider trying Slic3r 1.2.7.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 13, 2015 10:27AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 275 |
Quote
Treito
Probably it is a leveling problem. But ABS will not stick on glass even though HIPS seems to be better than PLA sticking on pure glass. But damn it I took a look on your table some hours ago because I am considering buying esun filament and the result on the table prevent me so I think I keep at Kiloplast even though I did not test PLA. This is going to be a little bit off-topic.
I like the light. (I love English - took -look; like -light). Is it only one color or can you play with the color?
Dario, I do not like this digital calipers. I had one and after zeroing and using it once it had an offset again of 0.02. Do you have any loose belt? I only get undersized models by 0.2mm in that dimensions. You should consider trying Slic3r 1.2.7.
Thanks Treito,
testing for me means:
more than a printer (no loose belt )
more than a slicer
more filaments
more than one model
more than one day
this is the reason for my tardiness
I already tried slic3r 1.2.7 but it is too slow to be able to do business (for my printers) and I like so much the simplify3d speed
I agree with you about my caliper!
Dario
Ormerod 187
Firmware Electronics: Duet 0.6
Firmware Version:1.18.1 (2017-04-07)
Web Interface Version:1.15a
Slic3r 1.2.9a and Simplify3D 4.0.0
[www.dropbox.com]
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 13, 2015 10:51AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
I am sorry I did no see that Simplify3D.
The digital calipers are not good and I thought they would be more precisely.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
The digital calipers are not good and I thought they would be more precisely.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 13, 2015 04:04PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 1,230 |
Quote
Ormerod187
Agree .....you are right
normally when I starting the extruder is empty but move the head to the edge of the bed it's the best
Thanks
Dario
Agreed - the edge of the glass will usually cuts the snot and if not - you can do the Captain snot-cutter mod :-)
[forums.reprap.org]
Erik
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 14, 2015 07:43AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 275 |
Quote
dc42
Quote
Ormerod187
Hi dc42,
it was not a good start because I did not clean the extruder....
but you sensor board.... absolutely...it's the best!
[youtu.be]
Thanks!
I have my homez and homeall files set to not drop the head to Z=0 after the G30 command, so that any filament oozing from the nozzle is unlikely to be deposited in the centre of the bed. Then I have the slic3r start gcode set to move the head to the edge of the bed while warming up. The result is than any ooze from the nozzle gets deposited on the skirt, where it is usually harmless.
Hi dc42,
Firmware Name: RepRapFirmware
Firmware Version: 1.09b-dc42 (2015-06-13)
Web Interface Version: HTML: 1.06, JS: 1.06 zpl
[youtu.be] [youtu.be]
work in progress
Dario
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/14/2015 11:01AM by Ormerod187.
Ormerod 187
Firmware Electronics: Duet 0.6
Firmware Version:1.18.1 (2017-04-07)
Web Interface Version:1.15a
Slic3r 1.2.9a and Simplify3D 4.0.0
[www.dropbox.com]
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 21, 2015 03:36PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Hello,
I have one stupid question. I probably know the answer but it is worth to try it although it will not work.
Does your sensor board works even with a black surface? I try to use this BuildTak even though it did not convince me yet. The problem is that I have only a small amount to calibrate the Z-axis in detail there is a small advertising logo (Why I do so much money for this and have advertisement) and I am using the text respective the letter "P" for homing, because it is white. But auto bed leveling for example does not work and something is instable with my bed leveling at the moment. my last chance is that your different sensor even works on the black surface (there is a small amount of reflection) but I think it will not doing this.
Regards,
Sven
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
I have one stupid question. I probably know the answer but it is worth to try it although it will not work.
Does your sensor board works even with a black surface? I try to use this BuildTak even though it did not convince me yet. The problem is that I have only a small amount to calibrate the Z-axis in detail there is a small advertising logo (Why I do so much money for this and have advertisement) and I am using the text respective the letter "P" for homing, because it is white. But auto bed leveling for example does not work and something is instable with my bed leveling at the moment. my last chance is that your different sensor even works on the black surface (there is a small amount of reflection) but I think it will not doing this.
Regards,
Sven
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 21, 2015 04:02PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 638 |
Quote
Treito
Hello,
I have one stupid question. I probably know the answer but it is worth to try it although it will not work.
Does your sensor board works even with a black surface? I try to use this BuildTak even though it did not convince me yet. The problem is that I have only a small amount to calibrate the Z-axis in detail there is a small advertising logo (Why I do so much money for this and have advertisement) and I am using the text respective the letter "P" for homing, because it is white. But auto bed leveling for example does not work and something is instable with my bed leveling at the moment. my last chance is that your different sensor even works on the black surface (there is a small amount of reflection) but I think it will not doing this.
Regards,
Sven
DC42's instructions actualy say you have to put a sheet of black paper under the glass or use BuildTak to improve accuracy.
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 21, 2015 04:07PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Quote
Darathy
DC42's instructions actualy say you have to put a sheet of black paper under the glass or use BuildTak to improve accuracy.
Really?! Damn it, so I could not use it, because I have no glass on my BuildTak.
That means that my BuildTak would be the ideal requirement for the sensor board?! But is this for calibration only or stays the black paper under the glass for long. But maybe it uses the reflection of the glass - sounds like it to me and in this case I have lost - again.Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 21, 2015 04:09PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 638 |
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 21, 2015 04:17PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
So I have to place an order next week and to be careful not to damage the BuildTak too often. My first on is nearly damaged. I was thinking of changing to PEI but in this case I can stay with BuildTak - it is more flexible than PEI. Besides I like the lights. Unfortunately I ordered two differntial IR-sensor boards, but nevermind.
DC42 what about the prices, availibility and shipping? In worst case I have to built them by my own. The complete equipment would be here.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
I was thinking of changing to PEI but in this case I can stay with BuildTak - it is more flexible than PEI. Besides I like the lights. Unfortunately I ordered two differntial IR-sensor boards, but nevermind.DC42 what about the prices, availibility and shipping? In worst case I have to built them by my own. The complete equipment would be here.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 21, 2015 04:40PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
The sensor used to be marginal with BuildTak, but I increased the sensitivity in the most recent batch to work reliably with it.
The only board I have in stock at present is a dual-nozzle capable board. If you send me a PM stating which country you want to shipped to, I will quote you a price.
Meanwhile my mini sensor boards (with just the IR sensor, no fan control or hot end connectors) have been selling out as fast as I make them, so I am about to put them into mass production.
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
Quote
Treito
DC42 what about the prices, availibility and shipping? In worst case I have to built them by my own. The complete equipment would be here.
The only board I have in stock at present is a dual-nozzle capable board. If you send me a PM stating which country you want to shipped to, I will quote you a price.
Meanwhile my mini sensor boards (with just the IR sensor, no fan control or hot end connectors) have been selling out as fast as I make them, so I am about to put them into mass production.
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 21, 2015 04:52PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 638 |
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 21, 2015 05:19PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
Quote
Darathy
Question from me. Can i use kapton over the glass with your sensor? will it work normaly?
Yes, you can. I still recommend black paper or paint between the glass and the aluminium, although it is less critical if you have kapton on top of the glass. Also I suggest you avoid using probe points that place the sensor over a join between strips of kapton tape, in case it affects the trigger height a little.
The trigger height will be higher than above plain glass by around 0.2mm.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/21/2015 05:21PM by dc42.
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 21, 2015 05:58PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Regarding this Mini board I have two questions:
1. Is it comaptible with the Ormerod 2 (because one line is missing)? I think I would have to mix up the config.g? Using Ormerod 1 instead of 2?
2. How is it mounted? It uses a horizontal mounting but your heatsink duct has vertical mounting?
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
1. Is it comaptible with the Ormerod 2 (because one line is missing)? I think I would have to mix up the config.g? Using Ormerod 1 instead of 2?
2. How is it mounted? It uses a horizontal mounting but your heatsink duct has vertical mounting?
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 21, 2015 06:28PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
Instructions for using the mini board are at [miscsolutions.wordpress.com]. Working out how to mount the board on an Ormerod would be up to you. It should be mounted with the sensitive area in line with the nozzle in the X direction, to minimise the effect of varying head tilt due to the hot end rotating around the X smooth rod..
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 21, 2015 06:39PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Okay thanks. I found the instructions earlier. By the way your link at github is not working. I have to modify your fanduct in any way. It is missing one holder for a cable tie on the opposite end. I am not able to get the IR LEDs. Does the emitting angle has a big effect on accuracy? Would be 850nm instead of 940nm also work? In this case I would also change the IR transistor.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 23, 2015 12:42PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 638 |
Hey ,i have a question: Above which hight should your probe be reading 0 all the time? i have my hot end flat againt the hot bed and still have 0 ,if i push it down by 0.1 it jumps to 530. Another strange thing is i got it to home normaly 1st time i tried it during your comissioning section but 2nd time it just slamed against the threaded rod(lucky for the plastic sheild!) i even extended the pad with white cardboard and still slamed the red light turned red when over the pad aswell, How much space should there be between the pad and the sensor?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/23/2015 12:43PM by Darathy.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/23/2015 12:43PM by Darathy.
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 23, 2015 01:59PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
Quote
Darathy
Hey ,i have a question: Above which hight should your probe be reading 0 all the time? i have my hot end flat againt the hot bed and still have 0 ,if i push it down by 0.1 it jumps to 530. Another strange thing is i got it to home normaly 1st time i tried it during your comissioning section but 2nd time it just slamed against the threaded rod(lucky for the plastic sheild!) i even extended the pad with white cardboard and still slamed the red light turned red when over the pad aswell, How much space should there be between the pad and the sensor?
The trigger height of the board when used above plain glass will be between 2.5 and 3.5mm. I write the value I measure during testing on the board, to the nearest 0.25mm. The trigger height above white paper is slightly greater.
If the board reading is still 0 when the nozzle is touching the glass, that suggests to me that either the board is mounted too high, or that you have a highly-reflecting surface underneath the glass, for example you are using a mirror as the print bed. The board should be mounted so that the bottom edge is between 1mm and 2mm higher than the tip of the nozzle. The clearance between the bottom edge of the board and the sensor pad should likewise be about 1mm to 2mm.
If the board is much too high above the sensor pad, please check that you have your nozzle mount installed the right way up, as described in the instructions.
Hope this helps - David
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
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Re: Reminder for new owners: Better Z-probe/fan control/hot end illumination board June 24, 2015 07:56AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Can I use IR-LEDs and photo transistors with a viewing angle of 30°? I have an offer for a cheap variant.
How does it work with the output because the Duet awaits an analogue signal? Does the Mini sensor board use PWM and this works?
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
How does it work with the output because the Duet awaits an analogue signal? Does the Mini sensor board use PWM and this works?
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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