Amsterdamman's Ormerod2 squared upper Z mount

origOrmerod2upperZmount.stl squareOrmerod2zuppermount.stl Hi all, working on my Ormerod2 kit (thanks again for the help in getting #1 printing again!) My machine just can't print the original upper Z mount so I altered it and removed the curved surface making it a simple vertical face. No functional changes, but maybe others have the same issues... I added it to thingiverse as well [www.thingiverse.com]

The failure I get is that the edges come up around the smooth rod hole area but the bigger issue is that it somehow slips the layers sideways in the X axis which is much worse. I can see smaller degrees of the same effect on the orig Ormerod1 upper Z mount as well. With the square face the entire issue disappears.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/09/2014 12:26AM by Amsterdamman.

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Socrates ~ The Amsterdamman
slic3r-1.2.9

Printing things with those kinds of overhangs requires the right temperature and cooling, lower temperature and more cooling usually makes my prints curl up less. The skipping along the X axis is probably the print head getting stuck in the curled-up bits and the motor skipping steps.

In this particular case, that curved top surface obviously serves no functional purpose, and a straight one does the job just as well.

Thanks, I also had problems printing that part, and several failed prints before I got the temperatures and speeds just right to avoid major curl-up. In this case there is no disadvantage in modifying the shape to make it easier to print, but other designs may not be able to be modified, in which case there are few options apart from fine-tuning the print variables (and what works for one filament colour/batch may not work with a different colour/batch).

The Z nut trap is another part with significant overhangs that is difficult to print, and could almost certainly be re-designed to be easier to print with no loss of functionality.

Dave

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dmould
The Z nut trap is another part with significant overhangs that is difficult to print, and could almost certainly be re-designed to be easier to print with no loss of functionality.

It could probably be made into a large square block and printed upside-down. The only overhangs would then be in the screw holes.

Also added my remix of iamburny's extruder gears for the Ormerod

[www.thingiverse.com]

Mainly I added a 1mm nose spacer to keep the gears free of the motor surface.
Had to reverse the gear face on the bed surface, so they are reversed from the originals.

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Socrates ~ The Amsterdamman
slic3r-1.2.9

Do you want to have less chance the sensor crashes your print? I raised the sensor 2mm with this nozzle mount. [www.thingiverse.com]

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Socrates ~ The Amsterdamman
slic3r-1.2.9