Ormerod Bigfoot mod!

Scaaary...



A perfect fit




y-z extrusions arrested with t-nuts




Yes you can keep those cables Octo..



Ta-daa..




the beauty and the beast



:-)

Erik

Impressive!

Do you see a difference in the bed levelness?

Erik seems to have a thing for 8 legged creatures!

Looks really good. Is the wood on the x-axis functional?

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tstone
Do you see a difference in the bed levelness?

No, at least not with both printers standing on level ground, the printer resting on four points is actually a bad idea, the y-extrusion will twist to some small degree if not level - but in practice the effect is very small and doesn't matter

The electric saw undercarriage part I used for bigfoot is cast aluminium and very strong so will not twist, ad to that the bolted on y-extrusion

Still have the effect of force from the bowden cable though, will try dc42's idea with 2 extra cables to even that out

Erik

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jamesf
Erik seems to have a thing for 8 legged creatures!

Yes LOL! (or more like yrkkk) - its the stangest thing, its not down to the number of legs that's for sure, but I'm working on it! - may take another 60 years but I will get there :-)

Quote

Looks really good. Is the wood on the x-axis functional?

It's a cable elevator to prevent the cables strangling the chimney plug of johneato's Control air to the nozzles mod - I wish he would make a steam version with whistle on top as I usually forget to pull the plug (ABS print) and have to chase the hotend around, desperately trying remove the dam thing without loosing any steps :-)



Erik

Did you build that butterfly on yours?! incredible stuff

wa...so beautiful.

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88Zombies
Did you build that butterfly on yours?! incredible stuff

Yes, easy to print and makes for a nice gift



Butterfly 3D Printable:
[www.thingiverse.com]

Erik

I love this! I've had my eye on it for a while. Since nobody has asked yet - what is the thing that you're using as a base? Are the aluminium brackets that you're using for the Y-axis ends part of that base, or did you cut them yourself? Where did you get the T-bracket that you've used to join the Y and Z axis?

My 'rod is currently sagging badly towards the X-axis, and I'm looking out for ways to perk it up and improve the rigidity of the Z-axis to make it more square. It looks like you've managed to get a bolt completely through the Y extrusion and into a t-slot nut that's fitted into the Z... is that correct? If so, that's genius! Is it more sturdy?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/06/2016 10:00PM by 0x0000.

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0x0000
I love this! I've had my eye on it for a while. Since nobody has asked yet - what is the thing that you're using as a base?..

Thank you for your kind words! - the base is from an electric saw I found at the scrap yard, made of cast aluminium, top is milled so perfectly flat and very very stable - perfect for the job

Not exactly this one but something like it:



..will answer the rest tomorrow..

Erik

Nice!

I Love the mods you did.

I can't wait to get mine in the same sturdy shape.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/04/2017 11:56AM by Karoo Klong.

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Karoo Klong
I Love the mods you did.

I can't wait to get mine in the same sturdy shape.

Thank You - I did invest a lot of time and work but it was time well spend and well worth it, the ormerod is a great printer!

BTW, the original cooling design could be better so you may want to print and install something else later, I have this great design from thingiverse installed at the moment, not an easy task to squeeze in but can be done



[www.thingiverse.com]

Erik

Ooh! That looks very nice!
Now if I could only actually pro t something.

Hi Erik,
that looks a great mod of the Cobra cooler to make it fit Ormerod. Do you have the files you could share? What else is needed to make it fit?
many thanks

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gwild
Hi Erik,
that looks a great mod of the Cobra cooler to make it fit Ormerod. Do you have the files you could share? What else is needed to make it fit?
many thanks

Hi gwild

I would gladly make a mod of the Cobra to fit the Ormerod directly, but my printer is not quite stock anymore and its requires a change to the original hotend to fit it in, I wrote at bit about it here:

[forums.reprap.org]

Basically you will need to make more room underneath the hotend fan and heatsink, also I have changed the heater block to center the nozzle and had to swing it a bit around z to give room for dc42's probe, should not be necessary if not used

To raise the hotend I screwed the heatsink directly to an extra one and mounted this on top of the original heater block, the hotend cooler fan is hold by 2 screws in the upper part of the heatsink

Of the 3 models from thingiverse i chose TAHfan19, it's very well designed with a good evenly split air flow, ad to that a good blower and you have more print cooling air than you will ever need, prints well in ABS (with support), did not modify it in any way, so it's more of a metal fiddle mod :-)

..and I nicked the blower from a defect Makita drill battery charger

Erik

att: xiaoyao9184

See no way to attach to PM's so here your request for blueprint over the z-y connector plate, was going to clean out the house over the weekend, but transforming my back-on-envelope to openscad was way more interesting :-)

Attached, DFX and OpenScad file



I used the free holes in both end to line up and pre-mount the plate to the y-extrusion, besides that they are not really needed



from the front



I moved the duet enclosure max to end to make room for a fan deflector, may interfere with the plate if not



2mm aluminium should be fine (or 1mm stainless steel)

As noted, you will have to extend the distance between the holes in the z-food by the amount of material thickness

BTW, another and better mod would be to design a 3D plate (a bit higher at y and wider at z) with both extrusions embedded, that would auto square up the z and y and make assembly much easier..like Lego :-)

Erik

Thank you for your time, this can solve the Z-axis problem caused by aging of PLA, without a tripod.

Wanted to make the x-runner in aluminium but have no tool to drill the 21mm hole for the bearing, could have bought one but the cost of it would remove the joy of making...luckily I found a piece of scrap extrusion 50x20mm with a square hole of 21x22mm where the bearing would slip right in



Milled of both lower "overhangs" and used one of the uppers for the x-runner bearing....



... the other side was a bit too short to reach the hotend so added a aluminium angle, the bearing was secured with a pair of 4mm set screws



Milled down to 1mm the x-runner bearing side to clear the Z-extrusion - its a close shave!







Added aluminium clamp to secure the belt, drilled 2 holes in the x-rib to access the screws after mounting the belt and the front bearing, to keep the mounting point of the belt on the x-runner in line, to avoid any lift or pushdown of the hotend



..now did I remember to remove the tool before before homing?

Erik

Looks very nice indeed!!
This kind of modifications gets me overly excited!