Get prints to stick to KAPTON, it works !

I have now found a sure way to get the PLA or ABS to stick to the bed, I use CRC PLASTICOTE 70 Clear Protective Laquer spay, used as con formal coating on PCB`s

I keep a "non downy" cloth handy then spray A THIN LAYER on the warm bed at 56 degrees and quickly wipe it of with the cloth, it becomes dull and dries instantly.
TO much and you cannot get the model of, but a thin layer and a quick wipe.... try it this works very well.
Tx Ben

The materials datasheet says it is LPG, Acetone, MEK and Xylene!
Never seen the CRC brand in the UK, anyone have an idea of an equivalent available in the Northern hemisphere?
Bobnet

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bobnet
The materials datasheet says it is LPG, Acetone, MEK and Xylene!
Never seen the CRC brand in the UK, anyone have an idea of an equivalent available in the Northern hemisphere?
Bobnet

CRC is sold as Servisol in the UK stocked by Farnell and probably others

Doug

I have a tin of 3M Vinyl primer 94 at home, I keep meaning to try this on the heat bed. It's made to improve adhesion of vinyl sheet to less than perfect surfaces.

Hi All
Just an update on this post, I have now taken the process one step further, after spraying the "hot" 56dC bed with the Plasticote, I take a very damp Acetone cloth and "smear" the coat to a thin layer... this works better than the thick layer as I battled to remove parts from the thicker directly sprayed layer, they STICKED TOO WELL
If you now look at the kapton surface in the light you can see the thin smear marks... and you can pull the parts off, they still stick VERY well
Tx Ben

Hi All
I recently removed the kapton completely and sprayed the plasticote directly on the hot glass, I then wipe the coating with the acitone and bobs you're uncle. . The pla sticks very well and after cooling you remove the plate and a light tap on the sides and the part dislodge. Bigger parts takes a bit more effort, also the finish on layer 1 is perfect, mirror like. Just beware, the gap between the glass and the z_offset is less than 0.1mm because the kapton is now gone so play with the Zcal values a bit, that is if you do not use the bed leveling setting g32... That is another post for another day, I got the tip from another Or2 owner, use 3 springs to level the bed!! It works VeRY well
TX Ben

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/21/2015 04:06PM by BenBB.

I have no problem getting PLA to stick directly to the glass, washed initially in hot soapy water, and wiped with vinegar between prints. The key is getting the right brand of PLA, which for me is esun filament that I buy from Galactic Warehouse.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

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dc42
I have no problem getting PLA to stick directly to the glass, washed initially in hot soapy water, and wiped with vinegar between prints. The key is getting the right brand of PLA, which for me is esun filament that I buy from Galactic Warehouse.

Dave

Galactic Warehouse not hear of them?

I get my Esun Filament from Hobbyking.co.uk at approx £12 per Kg

Doug

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dc42
I have no problem getting PLA to stick directly to the glass, washed initially in hot soapy water, and wiped with vinegar between prints. The key is getting the right brand of PLA, which for me is esun filament that I buy from Galactic Warehouse.

I used zwiss glass wipes, they're presoaked isopropanol lint free wipes. They seem to work fine.

In the US I've found hatchbox PLA from amazon sticks to glass ok, but there is some variability between colors (blue, purple, silver stick fine, black is acceptable, red is a bit more finicky need to have first layer 10C hotter than other colors to get it to stick even then corners lift slightly). Hatchbox tends to run around $20-25 on amazon per kg.

I've had some better luck with maker geek filament, though I've only been printing with a sample pack of PLA I bought, Their colors tend to be semi-transparent, probably because it's missing whatever additive makes some brands opaque. This stuff is $28 per kg, and they ship for free. The color selection is a bit limited, but they say their adding more soon.

I use UHU stic glue and print directly to glass.



I just heat the bed to 25-30 ºC apply the glue to the area where I want to print and then do the homing.

It works flawlessly! Every print has been succesful so far.

I don't even clean the glass between prints, only every 3-5 prints.

I print PLA at 195 ºC and the bed at 25 ºC. The first layer I print at 200 ºC.