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Got problem about the slic3r setting

Posted by jhlee1994 
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jhlee1994
Re: Printing problem
June 29, 2015 03:05AM
But sir, I don't have EAtoR.py file. can you send me one. Thank a lot
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ormerod168
Re: Printing problem
June 29, 2015 03:16AM
Quote
jhlee1994
But sir, I don't have EAtoR.py file. can you send me one. Thank a lot

No problem, attached

Erik
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Attachments:
open | download - Cura_Ormerod_V2.4.zip (758 bytes)
jhlee1994
Re: Printing problem
June 29, 2015 05:01AM
thanks for your help it's seem like it can printing but just printing without filament. Did I set something wrong?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/29/2015 05:03AM by jhlee1994.
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ormerod168
Re: Printing problem
June 29, 2015 06:16AM
Quote
jhlee1994
thanks for your help it's seem like it can printing but just printing without filament. Did I set something wrong?

Do you have T0 (select extruder) in your start g code?

Erik
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jhlee1994
Re: Printing problem
June 29, 2015 06:45AM
my start g.code just only like this :
"G28
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle"

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/29/2015 06:45AM by jhlee1994.
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dmould
Re: Printing problem
June 29, 2015 07:39AM
Quote
jhlee1994
my start g.code just only like this :
"G28
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle"

Look a few posts back. Erik showed you the start and end codes you should use in a screen capture.

Dave
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Darathy
Re: Printing problem
June 29, 2015 07:40AM
Quote
ormerod168
Quote
jhlee1994
How can I apply the setting to my cura? i'd try a lot of time but still don't get it.

Copy the EAtoR.py to your (e.g. on my system) C:\Program Files (x86)\Cura_15.04\plugins, start the program, go to plugins, highlight the "extrustion to relative Ormerod RepRapPro" plugin and press the ad button

[attachment 57262 curaadplugin.JPG]

open the cura start/end-Gcode menu, chose the start code, copy over the text from your slic3r settings start code

[attachment 57263 curastartcode.JPG]

ditto end Gcode

[attachment 57264 curaendcode.JPG]

Erik
thank you I forgot to write how to instal it
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jhlee1994
Re: Printing problem
June 29, 2015 08:27AM
Ok I'd follow the instruction, how about the basic and advance setting?
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dmould
Re: Printing problem
June 29, 2015 09:34AM
Quote
jhlee1994
Ok I'd follow the instruction, how about the basic and advance setting?

Start with the defaults and see how it prints. Try to understand what each setting does, and then you will be able to adjust them to make the print better or faster.

Dave
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jhlee1994
Re: Printing problem
June 29, 2015 11:41AM
Sir, I still got problem. I'd use the start gcode and end g.code which is eric give me. Same thing happen with T0, the hot extruder never extrude filament out. In another case, with T1 it work but just a while and the extruder stop extrude filament and it's still continue printing.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/29/2015 11:42AM by jhlee1994.
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ormerod168
Re: Got problem about the slic3r setting
June 29, 2015 11:58AM
As Dave said, the default setting will get you printing, just make sure to change the filament diameter (2.85) to 1.75 and nozzle size (0.4) to 0.5, this is what I would change for starters (Cura filament flow same as Slic3r's extrusion multiplier)




Erik
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jhlee1994
Re: Printing problem
June 30, 2015 04:53AM
I'd follow the setting that Erik show me. But it seem's come out like this. I'd sent the setting over at here. Please help me see where go wrong.
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Attachments:
open | download - Cura basic setting.PNG (98.5 KB)
open | download - Cura advance setting.PNG (89.3 KB)
open | download - Cura plugin Setting.PNG (96.2 KB)
open | download - Cura Start. gcode.PNG (92.3 KB)
open | download - Cura end g.code.PNG (101.5 KB)
jhlee1994
Re: Printing problem
June 30, 2015 04:59AM
It seem like the infill of it will be printed at outside of the object.
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dmould
Re: Got problem about the slic3r setting
June 30, 2015 07:28AM
Could you post your STL

Dave
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ormerod168
Re: Got problem about the slic3r setting
June 30, 2015 12:06PM
Yes that do look strange, has hardly anything to do with your Cura settings - please post the STL, make a multi volume zip file if over the file size limit - or post a link if you got it from another site

..and post your config.g and printer firmware version as well - I see your start gcode list the extruder as T1, the numbering of tools was change in later firmware, first extruder used to be T1, is now T0



Erik
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jhlee1994
Re: Got problem about the slic3r setting
July 02, 2015 06:14AM
ok then. here is the stl.file for the diagram above
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Attachments:
open | download - Screw driver3 with support material.rar (407.6 KB)
jhlee1994
Re: Got problem about the cura slic3r setting
July 02, 2015 06:18AM
And here is the firmware. the config.g also inside this folder

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/02/2015 06:21AM by jhlee1994.
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Attachments:
open | download - SD-image-Ormerod-1.rar (414.1 KB)
dmould
Re: Got problem about the slic3r setting
July 02, 2015 08:49AM
That design is very difficult to print as shown, because there are huge overhangs and very little bed contact. The lower half would need to be encased in support material, and even then is unlikely to print well, and the support will be difficult to remove. It is therefore not surprising that you are having problems. If I were making such an object, I would print it in two halves and glue the halves together. I have attached a modified STL showing what I mean. Print this object twice, and glue together. It will not need a raft, but support will be required for the bottom flutes. I print with ABS and use acetone to glue, but I believe superglue works well for PLA.

3D printing is a great way to make things, but like all tools it has limitations and so you must adapt your designs so that they are suitable for that type of manufacturing. In most cases it will be possible to print the part in sections and glue or bolt together afterwards.

Dave
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Attachments:
open | download - ScrewdriverHalf.rar (134.2 KB)
jhlee1994
Temperature problem while printing using ABS
July 02, 2015 09:19AM
I'd using ABS to printing but I got problem with the temperature of bed. For ABS the bed temperature is 100 to 110. But my temperature keep up and drop around 86.8 degree Celsius
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jhlee1994
Re: Got problem about the slic3r setting
July 02, 2015 09:23AM
I think I can print it without problem but I don't have Acetone, I just got Nail polish remover. So any idea for glue the ABS printing beside acetone
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jhlee1994
Re: Got problem about the slic3r setting
July 02, 2015 09:30AM
I'm using 12V, 29A power supply. so is this causing a problem?
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jhlee1994
Re: Got problem about the slic3r setting
July 02, 2015 09:33AM
After I'd download your stl file. and load it to cura. the diagram still the same. the infill still at outside
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jhlee1994
Re: Got problem about the slic3r setting
July 02, 2015 09:48AM
Sir, I think the problem is pretty obvious at my cura setting. I put other stl file at it, it still the same. infill still at outside.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/02/2015 09:48AM by jhlee1994.
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dmould
Re: Got problem about the slic3r setting
July 02, 2015 01:43PM
Quote
jhlee1994
Sir, I think the problem is pretty obvious at my cura setting. I put other stl file at it, it still the same. infill still at outside.

You must have a different version of Cura to mine. My version does not display the G-paths. If there is infill on the base and top, it means you have the shell thickness set to 0. Why not use Slic3r?

I use an LED PSU turned up to 14 volts, and the bed heats to 110 degrees in a few minutes. I print with bed at 110 deg first layer, then 95 deg for the rest. Acetone is available from shops that sell fibreglass materials. I do not recommend nail polish remover as it usually contains added oil. If you cannot get acetone, you can use solvent cement (used to join plastic water pipes) - available from most hardware and DIY stores. Plastic model cement will probably also work (I have not tried).

But I suggest you try with PLA first. ABS brings its own set of problems.

If your bed is not heating enough, put a sheet of cardboard or foam over it while it is heating, and remove just before printing.

Dave
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ormerod168
Re: Got problem about the cura slic3r setting
July 02, 2015 02:30PM
Quote
jhlee1994
And here is the firmware. the config.g also inside this folder

Your config.g look a bit messy with double commands but (without knowing) I guess the later overrules the first ones

You said the snowman.g printed OK and you have M563 P1 D0 H1 in you config.g so T1 should be right



Yes the screwdriver looks weird in Cura 14.09:



but ok in Cura 15.04:



and with Simplify3D's viewer the Cura 14.09 sliced file looks fine so its only a fault in Cura's viewer, the file should print ok



BTW, forgot to say that the shell thickness should be a multiple of the nozzle size, so change that from the 0.8 to 1 or 1.5

Erik
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jhlee1994
Printing problem with ABS
July 03, 2015 11:31AM
So you mean I should put a piece of cardboard or foam at the top of the glass printing surface until the temperature reach 110 degree Celsius. I think my heat bed max is 100+ but need quite long time. At the printing the temperature keep dropping, this is the big problem. I always need to pause and heat up the heat bed. then I can continue. This was delay my finishing time
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dmould
Re: Printing problem with ABS
July 03, 2015 11:58AM
Quote
jhlee1994
So you mean I should put a piece of cardboard or foam at the top of the glass printing surface until the temperature reach 110 degree Celsius. I think my heat bed max is 100+ but need quite long time. At the printing the temperature keep dropping, this is the big problem. I always need to pause and heat up the heat bed. then I can continue. This was delay my finishing time

With ABS the high temperature is only needed for the first layer to get good adhesion - 100 degrees should be OK. After the first layer it can drop quite a bit and still print OK - though don't go below 80 degrees. It will be easier to get a higher temperature in the hot weather.

Dave
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jhlee1994
Re: Printing problem with ABS
July 04, 2015 04:26AM
I'd tried to put a cardboard while heat up the heat bed. Well it's come effectively. But at printing the first layer it keep dropping greatly and I gonna keep pause and heat the heat bed up again with cover with cardboard. It's dropping till 98 degree just the raft first layer only. I think the heat escape from the heatbed was faster than it's generate. I think maybe it's the environment issue or something else
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jhlee1994
Re: Printing problem with ABS
July 04, 2015 04:30AM
So what should I do? I think I need something to cover the heatbed while it's printing. Yeah you're right. To cover it with cardboard is to prevent the heat run out. But my problem is the heat bed is cooling faster than generating heat.
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Treito
Re: Printing problem with ABS
July 04, 2015 05:58AM
Two days ago I found the optimal print solution for me. Using Simplify3D my printing speed is set up to 70mm/s. Perimeters at 80%, solid infill at 90%. Most important: First layer at 25%. Bed temperature: I am starting at 100° and after the first layer I set it up to 120° even though I know that I am not able to reach this temperature, but my bed is keeping heating without pause. During the printing 105° is the maximum that I can reach. If I pause I can reach up to 115°.
As you can see that my settings totally differs from the settings you normally should do except for the first layer speed. So nobody can really tell you what you should do. By the way my settings even work with Kapton tape as I crashed my BuildTak (RIP) yesterday. I have still one but as long as Kapton tape works...

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/04/2015 05:59AM by Treito.

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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