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Got problem about the slic3r setting

Posted by jhlee1994 
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dmould
Re: Got problem about the slic3r setting
July 05, 2015 09:18AM
Don't pause the print if the bed temperature drops, just keep printing at the best temperature your bed can manage. If you are printing in two halves as I suggested, you do not need a raft.

Dave
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jhlee1994
Re: Printing problem with ABS
July 11, 2015 04:31AM
Was it the ormerod 1 got feature to insulate the heat? I think this heatbed got design some feature for it. And now I'd observe that my bed supporter which is made by wood was sinking. Was it that got do with the bed insulate heat?
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ormerod168
Re: Printing problem with ABS
July 11, 2015 06:42AM
Quote
jhlee1994
Was it the ormerod 1 got feature to insulate the heat? I think this heatbed got design some feature for it. And now I'd observe that my bed supporter which is made by wood was sinking. Was it that got do with the bed insulate heat?

I don't think the heat has much to do with it but it won't harm to reduce the heat loss,

I use radiator foil under the bed as isolator..



...reflective side up and sealed around the heatbed with kapton tape



with 11V (measured at heatbed in) and a slice of cardboard on top of the bed it reach 110 degrees in 10 minutes

..and 150 degrees in 20 minutes but not going to do that again :-)



Erik
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jhlee1994
Re: Printing problem with ABS
July 12, 2015 02:56AM
Yeap, this is the part which is goes wrong on my 3D printer. Cause the kapton tape wasn't heavy duty enough
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jhlee1994
Re: Printing problem with ABS
July 12, 2015 03:01AM
Can I use aluminum foil instant of reflector foil?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/12/2015 03:02AM by jhlee1994.
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ormerod168
Re: Printing problem with ABS
July 13, 2015 03:14PM
Quote
jhlee1994
Can I use aluminum foil instant of reflector foil?

Yes thats what its made of, 0.11 mm aluminum foil with a 3mm isolating layer of polyurethane, you can use cardboard, cork or something like that instead

Erik
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jhlee1994
Re: Printing problem with ABS
July 14, 2015 11:26AM
I'd apply a layer of aluminium foil it's performance better already maximum can reach 90 degree. I think the aluminium foil wasn't heavy duty or can I just change my power supply into 13V? But I'm afraid the arduino got burn off
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ormerod168
Re: Printing problem with ABS
July 14, 2015 12:10PM
Quote
jhlee1994
I'd apply a layer of aluminium foil it's performance better already maximum can reach 90 degree. I think the aluminium foil wasn't heavy duty...

used as a reflector it doesn't matter, and I was wrong, the foil on the product I use is actually only 0,03-4mm thick

Quote

..or can I just change my power supply into 13V? But I'm afraid the arduino got burn off

As far as I know the Duet can handle a lot more than that, I think dc42 d wrote that the fan is the weak link and you can reduce the voltage to that with a diode or two in series

Erik
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jhlee1994
Re: Printing problem with ABS
July 15, 2015 11:36PM
I'd change my PSU Voltage setting to 13.47V, it's work but not quite stable. The printing is ok, but now is it's printing the raft and support material as a product. Where was i goes wrong? slic3r setting?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/16/2015 11:48AM by jhlee1994.
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jhlee1994
Slic3r setting problem
July 17, 2015 08:04AM
For the slic3r 1-2-9 version there is contact z distance in the print setting, what should I put for this? 0.2 the support material will be detachable to the object. Now I'm facing the problem is I'm printing a tube so inside the tube hole got the support material, but it's attached to the inner surface. I can't remove it

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/17/2015 08:05AM by jhlee1994.
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ormerod168
Re: Slic3r setting problem
July 17, 2015 10:40AM
Quote
jhlee1994
For the slic3r 1-2-9 version there is contact z distance in the print setting, what should I put for this? 0.2 the support material will be detachable to the object..

I have this setting at 0.4 In SF3D but thats just the default setting


Quote

Now I'm facing the problem is I'm printing a tube so inside the tube hole got the support material, but it's attached to the inner surface. I can't remove it

if you mean "attached to the inner vertical surface" is guess this is the setting you should adjust but 3 layers should be plenty if not sagging be cause of excessive heat that is:



Erik
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jhlee1994
Cura setting problem
July 18, 2015 10:40AM
I'd do the setting according to your instruction, but the extruder wasn't working. after homing the extruder retract the filament 5mm while printing start the extruder got extrude back 5mm after that it wasn't work but the printing process still on.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/18/2015 10:40AM by jhlee1994.
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jhlee1994
Re: Cura setting problem
July 19, 2015 10:28AM
Was it my setting in the machine setting went wrong? would you check and guide me.
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Attachments:
open | download - Cura machine setting.PNG (21.3 KB)
ormerod168
Re: Cura setting problem
July 19, 2015 02:16PM
Quote
jhlee1994
Was it my setting in the machine setting went wrong? would you check and guide me.

the easiest way for you to get printing would be to share a profile you could import but its long time since I sliced and printed anything with Cura and not sure my setup is up to date

Anyone got a known working Cura profile to share?....pretty please?

Erik
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ormerod168
Re: Got problem about the slic3r setting
July 20, 2015 03:22PM
Ok, could not get the latest Cura version going so installed ver. 15.04 instead, sliced a test file and everything worked from start to finish, activated hotend, waited for bed and hotend temperatures, the print, to parking the machine

I use David's PanelDue to control the printer so had to test this first to be sure that it work

I have attached the Cura 15.04 ini file, you can load in the files menu/open profile

also attached EAtoR.py, copy the files to your plugin folder (e.g. on my system the path is:C:\Program Files (x86)\Cura_15.04\plugins)

firmware installed is David's RepRapFirmware-1.09a-dc42.bin

..and my config.g, use it for reference only

M111 S0; Debug off								
M550 POrmerod168 ; Machine name (can be anything you like)
M551 Preprap ; Machine password
M552 P192.168.1.14 ; IP address
M553 P255.255.255.0 ; Netmask
M554 P192.168.1.1 ; Gateway
M555 P2 ; Set output to look like Marlin
G21 ; Work in millimetres
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates
M83 ; relative extruder moves
M906 X1000 Y1200 Z800 E1200 ; Set motor currents (mA)
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 1
G10 P1 S0 R0 ; Set tool 1 operating and standby temperatures                       
M92 E420 ; Set extruder steps per mm
M558 P1 ; Use an unmodulated Z probe or an intelligent Z probe 
G31 Z0.75 P500 ; Set the probe height and threshold (put your own values here)
M201 X800 Y800 Z15 E3600 ; Accelerations (mm/s^2)
M556 S78 X0 Y0 Z0 ; axis compensation
M203 E3600 ; Maximum speeds (mm/min)
M566 X1800 Y1800 Z30 E20 ; maximum jerk speed mm/minute(i.e. maximum instantaneous change in speed)             
M208 X210 Y205 ; set axis travel
M208 X 0 S1 ; set axis minimum
M574 X0 Y2 Z0 S1
T0

hope you get it going, fingers crossed :-)

Erik
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Attachments:
open | download - Cura_15.04_ormerod168.ini (9.7 KB)
open | download - EAtoR.py (1.4 KB)
jhlee1994
Re: Slic3r setting problem
July 26, 2015 04:53AM
I got some trouble at printing using slic3r. Sometimes the filament can't come out and extruder just keep extruding
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dmould
Re: Slic3r setting problem
July 27, 2015 09:36AM
Quote
jhlee1994
I got some trouble at printing using slic3r. Sometimes the filament can't come out and extruder just keep extruding

Could you describe the issue in more detail. Under what circumstances? What print speed and other settings were you using?

Could be caused by several things. (1) print speed too fast. (2) hotend too cold. (3) Partially blocked nozzle (4) Bad filament size (5) clogged Hobbed part and a few other things.

Dave
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jhlee1994
Re: Slic3r setting problem
July 27, 2015 11:55PM
i really not sure, but any way here is my setting i was using,
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Attachments:
open | download - Filament Setting.PNG (9.1 KB)
open | download - Print setting.PNG (20.2 KB)
open | download - Printer Setting.PNG (16.4 KB)
Treito
Re: Slic3r setting problem
July 28, 2015 03:41AM
You should change the temperature of the other layers otherwise your heater are turned off after the first layer according to your settings right now.
Edit: And please also try only half or even quarter of your print speed. Youi are way to fast. Over 50mm/s you will get artifacts.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/28/2015 03:43AM by Treito.

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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dmould
Re: Got problem about the slic3r setting
July 28, 2015 10:10AM
Anything above 70mm/s causes the extruder to skip on my printer, so as Treito says, you are printing too fast. Try 60mm/s or less.

Dave
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jhlee1994
Re: Slic3r setting problem
July 30, 2015 04:37AM
You mean all the setting at the speed or just Perimeter only
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Treito
Re: Slic3r setting problem
July 30, 2015 06:39AM
All speeds. Any speed (except for travel speed) above 50mm/s causes artifacts and above 60mm/s it may skip the extruder (even though i reached 70mm/s for perimeters).
At the beginning it is a good idea to print small objects witn 30mm/s as long as you find the right settings like temperature, bed leveling and so on. Only if you have good results here you can increase the speed. Otherwise it will be hard to define errors.
At Simplify3D the perimter speed is the maximum and all other speeds are lower than this. Simplify3D gives better print results than Slic3r, in my eyes.

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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dmould
Re: Got problem about the slic3r setting
July 30, 2015 11:49AM
Skipping is caused when the printer tries to push plastic too fast. There are three settings that affect how fast the plastic must be extruded. The first is print speed (which is easiest to adjust as it can be changed on the fly), the second is extrusion width (which needs to be kept reasonably close to the nozzle diameter), and the third is layer height. The greater the layer height or extrusion width, the slower you are able to print. Infill is usually printed with a slightly thicker extrusion width than perimeters, which is why the max speed is higher for perimeters, though faster speed reduces surface quality so it is usually best to limit that speed as well. If you want to print with a very fine layer height you will be able to increase the print speed before the extruder skips (though the print will still take considerably longer than when printed with thicker layers)

Dave
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jhlee1994
Re: Slic3r setting problem
July 31, 2015 01:37AM
But I can't set the bed temperature at the slic3r setting or it'll take a long time to heat plus the temperature can't stable at 110 degree it'll drop after a while. this keep bothering me while I need to print big part. Now the small part wasn't a issue. But the bigger one. I post the file to you better for you to understand. This is the file I want to print but due to the heat problem, it can't print the first layer finish before the temp drop till below 100 degree
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Attachments:
open | download - a-frame - spool holder (repaired).stl (10 KB)
Treito
Re: Slic3r setting problem
July 31, 2015 04:31AM
As I said I would first start with similar prints as you get more problems with bigger parts. Do you have a source where you get this file?

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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dmould
Re: Slic3r setting problem
July 31, 2015 07:08AM
Quote
jhlee1994
But I can't set the bed temperature at the slic3r setting or it'll take a long time to heat plus the temperature can't stable at 110 degree it'll drop after a while. this keep bothering me while I need to print big part. Now the small part wasn't a issue. But the bigger one. I post the file to you better for you to understand. This is the file I want to print but due to the heat problem, it can't print the first layer finish before the temp drop till below 100 degree

Then set the highest bed temperature that you can achieve and see if it prints OK. If that's not enough, you can try putting a tent partially over the printer (e.g. plastic bin bag) to retain some heat, or do as many of us have done who print ABS and replace the power supply with one that can be adjusted to 14 volts or so. There are 12V LED power supplies that can be adjusted that are not too expensive. The maximum bed temperature will follow the room temperature - e.g. a bed that can only reach 100 degrees in a room temperature of 15 degrees will be able to reach 110 degrees in a room that is 25 degrees. A hot room will also decrease warping. Another very important thing is to prevent any draft over the bed. I once opened the door of the room while printing and the draft it made caused the print to almost instantly warp.

Dave
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jhlee1994
Re: Slic3r setting problem
July 31, 2015 09:30AM
Treito, here is the link where I download this file :[www.thingiverse.com]
I want to print this cause the original design of filament spool was not very good.
After I put the filament at the spool which is install at the duet enclose base, the whole thing was fall down, also my wiring also disconnected from the duet because of this. The filament was too heavy to sit on it

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 07/31/2015 09:36AM by jhlee1994.
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jhlee1994
Re: Slic3r setting problem
July 31, 2015 09:42AM
dmould, what about a room temperature of 30+-? Cause my country wasn't has 4 season but just summer whole year. Can the duet can stand 14V? last time the instruction tell not to go more than 13.5V. I also afraid it got burn off. I'd experience once, It's quite messy but I'd manage to repair it up.
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dc42
Re: Slic3r setting problem
July 31, 2015 10:10AM
Quote
jhlee1994
... Can the duet can stand 14V? last time the instruction tell not to go more than 13.5V. I also afraid it got burn off. I'd experience once, It's quite messy but I'd manage to repair it up.

The Duet can easily take 14V, in fact the Huxley Duo and the Fisher run it at 19V. Preferably, you should put a couple of silicon rectifier diodes in series with the hot end fan to reduce the voltage it gets back to 12V.


Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
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Treito
Re: Slic3r setting problem
July 31, 2015 12:46PM
Quote
jhlee1994
Treito, here is the link where I download this file :[www.thingiverse.com]

Thanks, but this is too complicated for me as i am looking for a simplified thing. For that reason I want to use this: [www.thingiverse.com]
For the moment I use this [www.thingiverse.com] but if the spool is full it is loosing the coils and they are tightened below the spool. First I did not understand why everybody uses a standing holder, know I now it.

And also no hot summer at the moment? That can indeed makes trouble. Maybe you should turn on your heating.

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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