Duet broken?
Posted by Treito
|
Duet broken? August 11, 2015 04:53PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Hello,
I am afraid that my Duet is broken. I suddenly lost the Ethernet connection and I could not connect via Pronterface also. I tried to reflash the firmware and I am getting this:
Does this mean R.I.P. Duet?
Regards,
Sven
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
I am afraid that my Duet is broken. I suddenly lost the Ethernet connection and I could not connect via Pronterface also. I tried to reflash the firmware and I am getting this:
sven@linux-32t0:~/Downloads/arduino-1.5.6-r2/hardware/tools> ./bossac -e -w -v -b RepRapFirmware-1.09e-dc42.bin Device found on ttyACM0 Erase flash Write 228288 bytes to flash [==============================] 100% (892/892 pages) Verify 228288 bytes of flash [==============================] 100% (892/892 pages) Verify failed Page errors: 892 Byte errors: 225157
Does this mean R.I.P. Duet?
Regards,
Sven
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
|
Re: Duet broken? August 12, 2015 07:48AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 2,472 |
Was the Duet powered from the Ormerod PSU when you tried to reprogram? If not, that could be the reason for the failure - the USB supply may be enough to operate the board but will typically give 4.5V or less at the board rather than 5V which may affect the ability to write to Flash. Always have the Duet powered externally when flashing firmware.
If that's not the issue, try pressing the "erase" and "reset", wait 10 seconds and try burning the firmware again, but if it fails in the same way and that's the command you have successfully used before, it looks like the Flash in the SAM CPU has failed, which is an unusual failure mode and unlikely to have been caused by any external fault or mishandling. Just to cover several alternate possibilities, put bossac and the firmware file on a different PC and try programming (download a fresh copy of bossac and the firmware onto the other PC rather than copying it across, just in case they have become corrupt). Using a laptop is best if you have one available, as that eliminates ground loops and most other types of interference.
The command I use to program is "bossac --port=Com7 -U true -e -w -v -b RepRapFirmware-1.09e-dc42.bin -R" (change com port to whatever serial port the Duet registers as on the PC). I don't know whether the slightly different command syntax you use could be relevant but may be worth a try.
DC42 is more familiar with the CPU, and maybe it's a corrupt boot loader rather than program Flash, in which case it may be possible to resurrect via JTAG programming ( which needs a JTAG tool e.g. this is one I use [www.olimex.com] ). There's also an outside chance that a missing pullup or tie-down has put the CPU into the wrong powerup memory configuration, so check the solder joints on the CPU and nearby components carefully with a strong lens.
Might be covered under RepRap's warranty as it seems to be a component failure.
Dave
If that's not the issue, try pressing the "erase" and "reset", wait 10 seconds and try burning the firmware again, but if it fails in the same way and that's the command you have successfully used before, it looks like the Flash in the SAM CPU has failed, which is an unusual failure mode and unlikely to have been caused by any external fault or mishandling. Just to cover several alternate possibilities, put bossac and the firmware file on a different PC and try programming (download a fresh copy of bossac and the firmware onto the other PC rather than copying it across, just in case they have become corrupt). Using a laptop is best if you have one available, as that eliminates ground loops and most other types of interference.
The command I use to program is "bossac --port=Com7 -U true -e -w -v -b RepRapFirmware-1.09e-dc42.bin -R" (change com port to whatever serial port the Duet registers as on the PC). I don't know whether the slightly different command syntax you use could be relevant but may be worth a try.
DC42 is more familiar with the CPU, and maybe it's a corrupt boot loader rather than program Flash, in which case it may be possible to resurrect via JTAG programming ( which needs a JTAG tool e.g. this is one I use [www.olimex.com] ). There's also an outside chance that a missing pullup or tie-down has put the CPU into the wrong powerup memory configuration, so check the solder joints on the CPU and nearby components carefully with a strong lens.
Might be covered under RepRap's warranty as it seems to be a component failure.
Dave
|
Re: Duet broken? August 12, 2015 08:59AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
I agree, that looks like an unusual failure. I suggest you check the voltage on the 3.3V pin on the expansion connector.
Make sure you press Erase for a second or two, it needs to be held down for a minimum time (I forget how long, I think it's about 200ms). if programming still fails, try running "bossac -u" to unlock the flash manually, and then try programming again.
The bootloader is in ROM so it can't be changed.
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
Make sure you press Erase for a second or two, it needs to be held down for a minimum time (I forget how long, I think it's about 200ms). if programming still fails, try running "bossac -u" to unlock the flash manually, and then try programming again.
The bootloader is in ROM so it can't be changed.
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
|
Re: Duet broken? August 12, 2015 11:32AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Hello,
many thanks for the answers I was afraid of exactly these kind of answers.
It started some time ago, that I sometimes got an "Ajax communication failure" and shortly after that the Duet restarted. I installed the firmware from zpl short time before as the firmware 1.09a-dc42 was completely incompatible (I thought of a FW-bug). As I read that ZPL and dc42 treats the network slightly different I switched back to dc42's firmware (1.09d) and the duet ran stable until Sunday. Then I also got this error with the network but not that often.
So of course I tried to press the Erase-button and the Reset-buttons more often then once. Maybe 10 times? I switched the USB cable and the USB ports. I used my Powersupply (Corsair VX450) and I used USB only.
I played with the option of bossac and I added -i and also -R, deleted -e tried to flash alone without verification and so on. It is always the same. I also tried many different firmwares as I hoped that a smaller one may work.
bossac -u does also not work. but the strange think is this:
I only have this programming tool:
[www.olimex.com]
How long is the guarantee? Does anybody know this?
Regards,
Sven
Edit: The Duet voltage is 3.3V with PSU und 2.94V with USB only. I pressed erase for 5 seconds and then rest for 5 seconds and still no luck.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/12/2015 11:47AM by Treito.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
many thanks for the answers I was afraid of exactly these kind of answers.
It started some time ago, that I sometimes got an "Ajax communication failure" and shortly after that the Duet restarted. I installed the firmware from zpl short time before as the firmware 1.09a-dc42 was completely incompatible (I thought of a FW-bug). As I read that ZPL and dc42 treats the network slightly different I switched back to dc42's firmware (1.09d) and the duet ran stable until Sunday. Then I also got this error with the network but not that often.
So of course I tried to press the Erase-button and the Reset-buttons more often then once. Maybe 10 times? I switched the USB cable and the USB ports. I used my Powersupply (Corsair VX450) and I used USB only.
I played with the option of bossac and I added -i and also -R, deleted -e tried to flash alone without verification and so on. It is always the same. I also tried many different firmwares as I hoped that a smaller one may work.
bossac -u does also not work. but the strange think is this:
/bossac -i Device found on ttyACM0 Device : ATSAM3X8 Chip ID : 285e0a60 Version : v1.1 Dec 15 2010 19:25:04 Address : 524288 Pages : 2048 Page Size : 256 bytes Total Size : 512KB Planes : 2 Lock Regions : 32 Locked : none Security : false Boot Flash : false
I only have this programming tool:
[www.olimex.com]
How long is the guarantee? Does anybody know this?
Regards,
Sven
Edit: The Duet voltage is 3.3V with PSU und 2.94V with USB only. I pressed erase for 5 seconds and then rest for 5 seconds and still no luck.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/12/2015 11:47AM by Treito.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
|
Re: Duet broken? August 13, 2015 09:31AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 2,472 |
You have covered everything I can think of. 2.94V is below the minimum for the CPU, so a programming failure when powered via USB only could be expected, but you have also tried with the correct voltage so that's not the issue. Your Olimax device seems to be suitable for playing with the JTAG which may give a better diagnoses, but requires the appropriate PC software and knowledge (all available from the Atmel site if you want to get involved at that level). Flash failure is rare unless it has been erased/programmed hundreds of thousands of times (I hope none of the firmware is doing so during normal operation), but silicon failure does happen occasionally. As DC42 alludes to, it is possible that one or more blocks of Flash have been hardware locked (preventing erasure), and so will need to be unlocked (I think bossac can do that) before reprogramming. If it had failed following a reprogram that would be my guess - the fact that it failed suddenly during normal operation would however suggest that that is not the cause and also rules out powerup memory configuration issues. Maybe contact RRP and link to this thread to see whether it might be covered under warranty.
I've not kept abreast of Flash technology at the silicon level, but IIRC it used to be the case that a tired Flash could be equalised by repeatedly erasing and then flashing with zeros. You could maybe make a file containing 256KB of nulls, naming it "Null.bin," and try using bossac to program that file a few times to see if the verify eventually passes. I would have thought however that the particular failure mode that that addressed (uneven cell storage voltages) no longer applies to modern Flash.
You can examine the Flash contents via the CPU's built-in boot monitor. To do so, use a serial terminal program (e.g. Putty) on your PC. With the Duet erased and connected via USB, open a terminal session to the port the Duet shows up as with baud rate set as 115200, 8 data, no parity, 1 stop. This should then allow you to use the "SAM-BA monitor". It's capabilities are limited, but a list of commands etc. can be seen here [www.atmel.com] on page 319.
This could be used for example to determine whether whole blocks of flash are affected after attempting to program all with zeros, or if it is just a few sticky bits.
Dave
I've not kept abreast of Flash technology at the silicon level, but IIRC it used to be the case that a tired Flash could be equalised by repeatedly erasing and then flashing with zeros. You could maybe make a file containing 256KB of nulls, naming it "Null.bin," and try using bossac to program that file a few times to see if the verify eventually passes. I would have thought however that the particular failure mode that that addressed (uneven cell storage voltages) no longer applies to modern Flash.
You can examine the Flash contents via the CPU's built-in boot monitor. To do so, use a serial terminal program (e.g. Putty) on your PC. With the Duet erased and connected via USB, open a terminal session to the port the Duet shows up as with baud rate set as 115200, 8 data, no parity, 1 stop. This should then allow you to use the "SAM-BA monitor". It's capabilities are limited, but a list of commands etc. can be seen here [www.atmel.com] on page 319.
This could be used for example to determine whether whole blocks of flash are affected after attempting to program all with zeros, or if it is just a few sticky bits.
Dave
|
Re: Duet broken? August 13, 2015 12:20PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Many thanks for this Info. I have only use ISP so far and I want to experiment with PDI soon with an ATxMega. Is there any tutorial for J-Tag? Maybe I know a site but I am not at the computer at the moment. I will try this tip with the zeros later. I am a little bit ashamed that I have for the moment no idea how to make such a binary file but sooner or later I will remember. I hope so.
Yesterday I also wrote an e-mail to the support and I phoned with my vendor. They told me that they cannot replace the Duet alone and I would have to send back the whole printer. But I can e-mail to RS they would have some Duets in stock and normally exchange the Duet without problems. And then he wanted to give me the address from RepRap. I am only afraid that I will run in guarentee issues AS this is another country and I have bought my Ormerod not directly at a Distributor because you cannot buy here at RS AS a private person. But I had an original RS paperwork with my printer so we will see.
Regards,
Sven
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
Yesterday I also wrote an e-mail to the support and I phoned with my vendor. They told me that they cannot replace the Duet alone and I would have to send back the whole printer. But I can e-mail to RS they would have some Duets in stock and normally exchange the Duet without problems. And then he wanted to give me the address from RepRap. I am only afraid that I will run in guarentee issues AS this is another country and I have bought my Ormerod not directly at a Distributor because you cannot buy here at RS AS a private person. But I had an original RS paperwork with my printer so we will see.
Regards,
Sven
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
|
Re: Duet broken? August 13, 2015 02:17PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
As I got my pizza from the oven I remembered, but it does not look good:
R.I.P. Duet
How long needs the support to answer?
Edit: Inverting does work, So I can only write "0xff" to the flash but no zero's.
Edit2: The AtSam reaches 70°C after a very short time. So now I am in mourning.
Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 08/14/2015 03:46AM by Treito.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
./bossac -i -e -w -v -b zero2.bin Device found on ttyACM0 Erase flash Write 2048 bytes to flash [==============================] 100% (8/8 pages) Verify 2048 bytes of flash [==============================] 100% (8/8 pages) Verify failed Page errors: 8 Byte errors: 2048Same with 256kb.
R.I.P. Duet
How long needs the support to answer?
Edit: Inverting does work, So I can only write "0xff" to the flash but no zero's.
Edit2: The AtSam reaches 70°C after a very short time. So now I am in mourning.
Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 08/14/2015 03:46AM by Treito.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
|
Re: Duet broken? August 15, 2015 01:15AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
I am desperate. After 78 hours I still got no answer from the support. What can I do now?
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
|
Re: Duet broken? August 15, 2015 05:52AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
BTW my micro SD card was also illed. The partition table cannot be read anymore. Probably this is fixable but it happened as the Duet broke.
I will replace the card with and UHS-1 card. Can the Duet take advantage of this higher specification?
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
I will replace the card with and UHS-1 card. Can the Duet take advantage of this higher specification?
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
|
Re: Duet broken? August 17, 2015 10:41AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 177 |
RRP support can take a while to get back to you, it all depends on how busy they are, and if anyone's on vacation or at a 3D printing festival. I once had support take over a week to get back to me, but sometimes I've also had them get back by the next day.
The duet should be able to use a UHS-1 card, it's just a faster read/write speed than class 10.
The duet should be able to use a UHS-1 card, it's just a faster read/write speed than class 10.
|
Re: Duet broken? August 17, 2015 11:54AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
I read somewhere from zpl that the code is not capable to access the card at full speed so that is why I asked. It was primary the writing speed but I am interested in both direction. Maybe the Duet cannot take any advantages. I contacted my vendor again as he is normally responsible for me and I would like to have a solution soon.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
|
Re: Duet broken? August 25, 2015 07:41AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 2,472 |
After erasing, a flash memory is filled with 0xFF. The write process can change a "1" bit to "0" but cannot change "0" to "1" (hence why you have to erase before writing). So it sounds as if the flash is erasing but is not writing. So maybe a failure of the CPU's write circuit rather than the flash memory itself. I think a new Duet is the only practical solution.
Dave
Dave
|
Re: Duet broken? August 25, 2015 02:06PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
As the SAM is getting very hot after a short while I also think so but my vendor is not able to deliver a new board as RS is not able to deliver a new board and my vendor did not decide yet what to do as the nice woman of the service is hoping that RS can get a board anyhow. Yesterday she asked for the prices of a new board but still demands me to be patient but how long?
The strange thing is that there seems to be no damage if you look at the PCB. All parts are intact visually. Can I exchange the SAM only somehow?
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
The strange thing is that there seems to be no damage if you look at the PCB. All parts are intact visually. Can I exchange the SAM only somehow?
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
|
Re: Duet broken? August 25, 2015 03:35PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
In principle you could remove and replace the SAM3X8E-AU chip, but you would need access to a good hot air SMD rework station to do it.
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
|
Re: Duet broken? August 25, 2015 06:54PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
And here we comes to tools that I do not own or have access too. Some hot air fan (gun) would not help? So I will have to throw away the PCB. That is sad as it would only costs 10€ for the part. I even thought of using some small tool like a Dremel to cut the pins of the SAM (and hoping not to hit the PCB itself) and then remove the pins of the SAM with a soldering iron or soldering station.
Edit: Would the newer version also be okay? [www.conrad.com]
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/25/2015 07:26PM by Treito.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
Edit: Would the newer version also be okay? [www.conrad.com]
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/25/2015 07:26PM by Treito.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
|
Re: Duet broken? August 26, 2015 11:20AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 2,472 |
If the board will be thrown away anyway, you could try replacing the SAM - the most you have to lose is the cost of the SAM. To get the SAM off the board, a hot-air gun is probably the easiest. Heat till all pins have completely melted solder, then flick the SAM off the board with a needle or very small screwdriver, or use a cheap SMD suction tool to lift it off, or you could try sticking a bit of Kapton tape to the top of the SAM and lifting with that (not sure if it will stick strongly enough under heat). You need to be careful not to move the nearby small components (which will also have melted pads and thus be loose). You can try using aluminium foil or a small nozzle adaptor on the hot-air gun to shield the other components while heating, but if you flick or lift the SAM carefully it doesn't matter if other components also have melted pads. Be sure to let the board cool enough to solidify the solder before touching or moving it after removing the SAM. As an alternative method, you can use a very sharp scalpel to cut the SAM off leaving the pins behind, and then use a soldering iron and solder-sucker to remove the hacked-off pins - but cutting can often cause vibration and stresses that break the pads off the PCB (never use side-cutters for that reason), or the scalpel slips and cuts though a track.
To replace the SAM, coat the PCB pads with liquid flux, carefully position the new part, and apply a hot tinned soldering iron to each corner pin in turn to fix its position, pressing each pin firmly onto the board - there should be enough residual solder on the pads to fix it in place. You can then run a lightly tinned and very hot fine tipped iron along the pins on each side, pressing down each pin for a short while and re-tinning the iron every now and again. Examine the pins under a strong magnifier to ensure they are all soldered with no bridging. If there are solder bridges, remove with solder-wick. As an alternative you can try soldering the new part using the hot air gun, but for good results that will usually need solder paste applied to the pads, and I have had the greatest success using hot air to remove parts but a soldering iron to replace them. If the pads are not soldering very well with just the residual solder plus the tinned iron, you can feed solder as you run the iron along each side, deliberately creating a huge solder bridge along all the pins, and then use solder wick to suck off the bridge.
A very hot iron is necessary so that the solder melts very quickly without needing to apply the iron for very long. A cooler iron must be held against the pins for longer, and so contrary to what you may think, it results in the PCB getting hotter than it does if using a much hotter iron. If pads or tracks lift off the board due to overheating the PCB, it becomes just about impossible to repair.
Dave
To replace the SAM, coat the PCB pads with liquid flux, carefully position the new part, and apply a hot tinned soldering iron to each corner pin in turn to fix its position, pressing each pin firmly onto the board - there should be enough residual solder on the pads to fix it in place. You can then run a lightly tinned and very hot fine tipped iron along the pins on each side, pressing down each pin for a short while and re-tinning the iron every now and again. Examine the pins under a strong magnifier to ensure they are all soldered with no bridging. If there are solder bridges, remove with solder-wick. As an alternative you can try soldering the new part using the hot air gun, but for good results that will usually need solder paste applied to the pads, and I have had the greatest success using hot air to remove parts but a soldering iron to replace them. If the pads are not soldering very well with just the residual solder plus the tinned iron, you can feed solder as you run the iron along each side, deliberately creating a huge solder bridge along all the pins, and then use solder wick to suck off the bridge.
A very hot iron is necessary so that the solder melts very quickly without needing to apply the iron for very long. A cooler iron must be held against the pins for longer, and so contrary to what you may think, it results in the PCB getting hotter than it does if using a much hotter iron. If pads or tracks lift off the board due to overheating the PCB, it becomes just about impossible to repair.
Dave
|
Re: Duet broken? August 26, 2015 01:09PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Okay many thanks for that explanation. I have a soldering station that is hot enough (up to 450°C) but I have no cooling station. And the SAM would cost nearby 20€. A new Duet from far far away roughly 60€ (including taxes and shipping with a long delivery time) so I do not think that this is the amount of needed work worth. As I still not know if the newer version of the SAM works with the Duet. it should but who knows? And the older version is not available anymore. At least here not available. So I have to push my vendor for a decision I am afraid of.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
|
Re: Duet broken? August 26, 2015 10:04PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
I think I will have to buy a new board (who is going to pay it is another problem) but I cannot decide which one. To buy it from here and getting the 4k7 version or to buy the Chinese replica which is much cheaper but only the 1k version or to buy the newest 0.85 version. I should mention that I recently bought a Duet shield. If I had known that version 0.85 is going to be released I would not have bought the Duet shield and took the Duet 0.85 instead. If I would buy the 0.85 version I would use it with my new printer and I would have the option to upgrade my old printer, too. Otherwise I would only upgrade the new printer to two extruders.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
|
Re: Duet broken? August 27, 2015 07:25AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 2,472 |
Quote
Treito
I think I will have to buy a new board (who is going to pay it is another problem) but I cannot decide which one. To buy it from here and getting the 4k7 version or to buy the Chinese replica which is much cheaper but only the 1k version or to buy the newest 0.85 version.
Isn't the only significant difference between the first two the value of one resistor on the board? If so, and you have a soldering station and a little experience, it is trivial to change a resistor.
Dave
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/27/2015 07:26AM by dmould.
|
Re: Duet broken? August 27, 2015 02:09PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
I do not know the complete differences but that is the difference that really effects you as the config.g is different. As Electrical Engineer I had soldered and also this is one of my hobbies but I have not soldered SMD yet. I will have to solder SMD soon as I have a heated bed with no indication if it is heating or not, but if I exchange resistors at a PCB independent if I can solder or not I will loose my warranty.
Besides I am soldering lead free. In just wanted to mention this. It is a little bit harder but I found one solder that is to handle nearly like leaded solder if you are not regarding the temperature.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
Besides I am soldering lead free. In just wanted to mention this. It is a little bit harder but I found one solder that is to handle nearly like leaded solder if you are not regarding the temperature.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
|
Re: Duet broken? August 28, 2015 07:44AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 2,472 |
Replacing an SMD resistor (even the tiny sizes used on the Duet) is not difficult for anyone with a little soldering experience - far easier than replacing fine pitch IC's. Again, a hot fine-tipped iron is important. If you do not have excellent eyesight, a large illuminating magnifier on a stand makes things quite a bit easier, but I have managed without. Lay the iron across both pads on the top of the resistor, feeding solder to make good thermal contact if necessary, and use the iron to slide the resistor off the PCB pads toward a clear area of the board as soon as the solder melts - the resistor and excess solder will usually remain stuck to the soldering iron when you lift it away and may be wiped off on a damp cloth or sponge. Hold the replacement resistor down onto the pads with a thin tool (I use a small jeweller's screwdriver or fine tweezers), and apply a recently tinned soldering iron tip to the junction of each component and PCB pad in turn. The residual flux and solder from the recent tinning of the iron together with solder left on the PCB pads will be sufficient to make a good joint (feeding in additional solder as you would usually do for larger joints would require a third hand and is fortunately not necessary).
Dave
Dave
|
Re: Duet broken? August 28, 2015 10:11AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
I have a good digital soldering station here and also some different tips. That is not the problem. The equipment and the experience is available, but as long as the card is running under warranty I will not exchange anything on the card. I will only add soon one resistor and two LEDs on my MK3 heated bed.
But thanks for the instructions I learned it in a little bit other way - in theory so only to solder one pad. As long as the solder is hot placing the part on the pad. Cooling the pad down and solder the other side. Advantage: It is easier to put the pad really flat onto the PCB. But how you solder SMD depends also of the casing and the pad size. My instructions only work if the pad is slightly bigger than the part (like the heated bed).
As I do not wear my lenses I do not know if my sight is good enough as my glasses make everything smaller, but I have a LED lamp with two magnifiers (one big and one small) here just in case (3 and 12 dioptrien).
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
But thanks for the instructions I learned it in a little bit other way - in theory so only to solder one pad. As long as the solder is hot placing the part on the pad. Cooling the pad down and solder the other side. Advantage: It is easier to put the pad really flat onto the PCB. But how you solder SMD depends also of the casing and the pad size. My instructions only work if the pad is slightly bigger than the part (like the heated bed).
As I do not wear my lenses I do not know if my sight is good enough as my glasses make everything smaller, but I have a LED lamp with two magnifiers (one big and one small) here just in case (3 and 12 dioptrien).
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
|
Re: Duet broken? August 28, 2015 01:03PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
Quote
Treito
As I do not wear my lenses I do not know if my sight is good enough as my glasses make everything smaller, but I have a LED lamp with two magnifiers (one big and one small) here just in case (3 and 12 dioptrien).
I use a cheap pair of extra strong reading glasses for SMD assembly and rework.
Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod
Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
|
Re: Duet broken? August 28, 2015 01:51PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
That would be totally wong for me I am afraid, as I need glasses to look into distances over 20cm. In my case it would be better not to wear any seeing aid but then I should be careful not to breath in the SMD parts. 
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.