Which nozzle 0.3 or 0.5

I've been messing about with a 0.3 nozzle and abs.
Found that the print quality is finer but produces weaker structures.
Anyone had experience?
Cheers
Jon

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/12/2015 01:48PM by Jon Steward.

Hi Jon, are you using the same Gcode file that you were using for the 0.5mm nozzle?
If so, then that's your problem. You have to set the Nozzle size in the Slicer program that you normally use, and also the Layer Height, then make a new Gcode file.
I'd use the Wizard in Slic3r as it will adjust the Layer height for you dependent on your Nozzle Diameter.

If you've already done that and the layers aren't sticking together check the Multiplier setting (try setting it to 1), and/or raise the temperature of the HotEnd so the Plastic melts and melds to the Layer below it.

Hopefully that will sort out your problems.

Regards,
Kim..

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Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
I won't see comments in threads, as I move around to much.
Working Link to Big Blue 360 Complete

You also need to keep the layer height to a maximum of 60% of the nozzle width, so 0.18mm - otherwise your layer adhesion suffers.

I cannot confirm this. Using a 0.5mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer height sometimes works fine for me (depending on the surface). Even with my 0.4mm nozzle. As far as I know RepRapPro suggests 0.4mm layer height if you got stuck. That would mean 80%. What is the source of that small maximum layer height?

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

This is a fairly common rule-of-thumb that you find on the internet - especially regarding ABS due to it's contraction when cooling.
I have found that delamination or weak walls tends to occur above this ratio.

Okay I will take a look at this practically. On the other hand this means it would take much more time to print parts. I only used a 0.4mm height maximum for the first layer and if it has to be done fast I printed with a maximum layer height of 0.24mm regarding both nozzles. So if I get you right that would be the maximum height for my 0.4mm nozzle?

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

What surfaces are you both printing on?
I'm direct to glass with a vinegar wipe. I tried acetone wipe with no improvement. Also tried one of those German aluminium beds with the magic coating. Didn't get on with that so back to direct glass for me.
With the 0.3 nozzle I do get a slight corner lift which improves the lower I set the bed temperature. 102 degrees is my current lowest at 90 the printed part won't stick.
Thanks Kim for opening my eyes to the settings in Slic3r. I didn't like the wizard but the settings fiddling is time well spent to understand the differing effects.
I do now believe that a 0.3 is harder to print with than the 0.5 but the quality and strength is slightly improved.
I print with ABS as PLA is not so interesting and also melt in the dishwasher.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/16/2015 03:49PM by Jon Steward.

Since a few days I use PrintBite. Regarding PLA it is amazing as PLA sticks every well as long as the bed is hot and simply falls off when cooling down. You only have to get the proper settings once as you have to hit the right temperature for both the bed and extruder, but then it is amazing.
Regarding the reviews here in the forum it should be the same effect with other materials like ABS. I cannot confirm this now, but I have not test ABS very much by now but I hope to start testing this material by tomorrow. You may need 115°C for the bed temperature but there is no need for any disgusting juice or other tools to support sticking. Besides it is nearly undestructable and it is not very expensive. You would nearly get two of them for the price of one German aluminium bed.
BuildTak works also very well (but less than PrintBite) but it is very sensitive and especially for permanently ABS printing it seems not to be very durable.
Of course is printing with a smaller nozzle harder. That is one reason why new printers are mostly equipped with a 0.5mm nozzle and why I choosed "only" a 0.4mm nozzle for my Ormerod 2 as compromise.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.