Looking to buy 3D printer and looking at Ormerod 2

So what to say about this.
Personally I recently just switched to eSun regarding PLA. Generally you can say the eSun is not as brilliant as other companies especially the ABS material has not a very good coloring and here especially the red one. The blue one is acceptable. ABS is printing like other materials I have tested so far. Not better and not more badly. Including warping.
PLA from eSun prints a little bit smoother and better than other brands. I tested the red one and the silver one so far. All other brands I tested so far have mor brilliant colors and they look very similiar. (3dfilaments.ie, Jet, NuNus, Kiboplast, Herz)
If you prefer to have more brilliant colors you should try the above mention 3dfilaments.ie. However NuNus can be a good choice or it can be not. Kiboplast seems to be similiar like NuNus except slightly differences regarding the spools.
The transparent filaments from Synergy3D is not a good choice for our printers.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Are you in US? I've had pretty good luck with Hatchbox PLA filaments from Amazon.
I have yet to print in ABS, so can't really compare.

I found that once I started looking, was going to order from hobby king but even from US warehouse shipping was high, I get free 2 day shipping from amazon so going to try that first.
With the Ormerod 2 is there a problem using ABS and melting something in the pro t head or the holder?
How do you fix this if it is an issue?

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1pennyshort
Are you in US? I've had pretty good luck with Hatchbox PLA filaments from Amazon.
I have yet to print in ABS, so can't really compare.

There is a documentation here how to behave when printing ABS. First of all move the head up at least the z-axis >100. The x-axis and y-axis to the smallest position possible (homing positions). Also here is a documentation in which order you should print the replacement parts. Starting with the x-carriage. You should have some experience with PLA first. And the parts will not fail that easy. The X-carriage tends to loose the bearing for example, but the bearing is long so you will not have big trouble to print replacements still if this problem occurs. I lived with that problem even some weeks as I was not able to print a X-carriage.
Please look for the documentation first.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

I use 3Dfilaprint.com and find their ABS and service is good.

Dave

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brlowe
I found that once I started looking, was going to order from hobby king but even from US warehouse shipping was high, I get free 2 day shipping from amazon so going to try that first.
With the Ormerod 2 is there a problem using ABS and melting something in the pro t head or the holder?
How do you fix this if it is an issue?

For printing ABS first thing make replacement Parts in PLA becouse ABS requires bed temperature of 100-110 and it will make PLA parts soft and make them deform. Print all parts of the Hot End(if you have the Acrylic Fan spacer theres no printed parts there) and X-carrige and the hot end mount. The Extruder aswell i'd guess but it is higher and might be cool anaugh.

i made the mistake of printing several parts in ABS and my X-carrige deformed and ruined the print. So i highly suggest printing single part or 2 at a time(faster printing) less chance of deforming.

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Documentation
Advice

Important: all the supplied printer parts are made from PLA. Long term exposure to the heat of ABS printing will cause some of them to fail. If you plan to print a lot of ABS, you should first reprint some of the parts from ABS, specifically (and in this order) the x-carriage, z-runner-mount, extruder-body and the rest of the extruder parts, nozzle-duct, fan-duct.

When printing ABS without upgraded parts, at the start of the print leave the x-axis high above the bed (at least 100mm) so that it is not getting hot while the bed heats up.

Like I said it is all described. But before printing ABS you should be able to print PLA. It is also a very good idea to have some spare PLA parts before start printing ABS as ABS is not easy to print especially at the beginning.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

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brlowe
@VortyZA
"I use my I3 primarily for ABS, Nylon and Polycarbonate printing because I have an all metal hot end - the Ormerod can do ABS (with some very essential part reprinting), but not the higher temperature stuff."

What needs to be done to the ormerod 2 to let you print with the higher temp stuff? and what does that mean? And what parts need to be reprinted before doing ABS?

Thank you everyone

From what I understand the PTFE plastic sleeve inside the hot end will melt or at least soften when you start getting into the range of temperatures for printing things like Polycarb.
A few people have made modifications to put an all metal hot end on their Ormerod, so that's not a total dead end!

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0x0000
@VortyZA, where do you source your polycarbonate filament from?

I live in South Africa, so I'm not sure my source will be much good for you! I've seen it offered on a few websites in UK and US however.

For what it's worth I've just been testing a fairly cost effective printer - the da vinci XYZ printer. The Ormerod's print quality totally whips it, although the fancy box etc. makes it look much better in the office!

@1penny short,
I fell down the same rabbit hole as you with replikeo. I have no usable gears and am looking for herringbone set. I would like the small gear to have the grub hub collar. Any advice?
I had to sand the outer edge of the big gear. The binding was suspending feed. I then found the gears would jog as the teeth would bind.
I did get a test print but it was printed at different x positions as the x ramp was low current.

@omerod168,
I have no usable gears and am looking for herringbone set. I would like the small gear to have the grub hub collar. Any advice? Can you print a set and sell to me?
I have seen sets for sale but don't trust the axle diameter specification.

Thanks guys, up front.

@Giantkiller, which country are you in?

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

As others have asked, where you live makes a difference.
A quick answer would be to look at shapeways.com, you can get virtually anything printed there.

However, before you go that route... I had the same problem with the extruder, my first couple of prints only worked with me manually helping the extruder motor. It was not the gears, in fact I am still using the original gears, I haven't upgraded to herringbone yet. What I did though was upgrade the extruder to this design, contributed by folks on this board. It works great and it's much more convenient.

Also had the problem with stepping on the X axis. Increasing the current on the X motor fixed it for good.

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Giantkiller
@omerod168,
I have no usable gears and am looking for herringbone set. I would like the small gear to have the grub hub collar. Any advice? Can you print a set and sell to me?
I have seen sets for sale but don't trust the axle diameter specification.

Can easily print a set for you for free, no problem - but I have not seen any model with grub hub collar, why would you want that?

My guess is that you have foreseen the problem with the interlocking gear, that both gears that have to be mounted at the same time so you want the small gear to slip unto the axle with no resistance and arrest it with the grub screw when in place

Yes, to install those gear wheels on the stock extruder gives me the creeps!



This problem do not exist with MasonStoneHenge's springloaded extruder that I highly recommend

RepRap Pro Ormerod Spring-loaded extruder
[www.thingiverse.com]

How about this: I am about to change color on my 2. born Ormerod1, I could send you the ABS printed spring loaded extruder pars with wheels, suitable spring included, and in Christmas Green no less!

..or if you find a model of the small gear with grub hub collar I could print that instead if you prefer that

Erik

Colorado, USA.

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ormerod168

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Giantkiller
@omerod168,
I have no usable gears and am looking for herringbone set. I would like the small gear to have the grub hub collar. Any advice? Can you print a set and sell to me?
I have seen sets for sale but don't trust the axle diameter specification.

Can easily print a set for you for free, no problem - but I have not seen any model with grub hub collar, why would you want that?

My guess is that you have foreseen the problem with the interlocking gear, that both gears that have to be mounted at the same time so you want the small gear to slip unto the axle with no resistance and arrest it with the grub screw when in place

Yes, to install those gear wheels on the stock extruder gives me the creeps!

[attachment 68094 HeeringBoneGearsExtruder.JPG]

This problem do not exist with MasonStoneHenge's springloaded extruder that I highly recommend

RepRap Pro Ormerod Spring-loaded extruder
[www.thingiverse.com]

How about this: I am about to change color on my 2. born Ormerod1, I could send you the ABS printed spring loaded extruder pars with wheels, suitable spring included, and in Christmas Green no less!

..or if you find a model of the small gear with grub hub collar I could print that instead if you prefer that

Erik

I would definately like your omerods and with Herringbones? The grub hub collar makes the installation on the motor hub much simpler. If no collar then thats ok.
I had the dual hot end replikeo and need to get able to print so I can move on into other parts. How shall we go about this?

Sorry, but can anybody answer a person who's first language is not English and who is no mechanical engineer one stupid question? What the hell is a grub hub collar?

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

So glad you asked because I have no clue either.
Also would these parts be better in nylon or ABS?

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Treito
Sorry, but can anybody answer a person who's first language is not English and who is no mechanical engineer one stupid question? What the hell is a grub hub collar?

Quote
Treito
Sorry, but can anybody answer a person who's first language is not English and who is no mechanical engineer one stupid question? What the hell is a grub hub collar?

[www.youtube.com]
Small gear with set screw hub
I think the 'Grub' name came from it not having a head therefore a grub worm.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/20/2015 09:41PM by Giantkiller.

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Giantkiller
I would definately like your omerods and with Herringbones?

Yes, Herringbones

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The grub hub collar makes the installation on the motor hub much simpler. If no collar then thats ok.

I do prefer a press fit for flexible materials, a grub screw tends to throw things of center

Quote

I had the dual hot end replikeo and need to get able to print so I can move on into other parts. How shall we go about this?

Will send you a PM

Erik

Quote
Treito
Sorry, but can anybody answer a person who's first language is not English and who is no mechanical engineer one stupid question? What the hell is a grub hub collar?

Treito

Put simply it is one with a means of clamping with a setscrew in the same way that the toothed pulley mount on the motor shafts.

A common name for a set screw is a Grub Screw (in German I think a Stellschraube)

Hope this helps.

Doug

Hello Doug. I know a grub screw very well. This is called "Madenschraube" in German. But a "grub hub collar" was too much. Why not simply grub screw? Or is there a difference? I cannot look at the video for the moment.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
Hello Doug. I know a grub screw very well. This is called "Madenschraube" in German. But a "grub hub collar" was too much. Why not simply grub screw? Or is there a difference? I cannot look at the video for the moment.

The Hub Collar bit is just like the same part that grubscrew fits in the gear wheel ie it is the extra bit for the screw it wasn't really the correct terminology I would have called it an extension flange or similar.

what he wants is something like the small one in gears

I did not find this term on google so I had no plan what he is looking for. I ordered often parts from Chinese or English suplliers and additionally recently finished my Ormerod 2 using the documentation here, but this term was a thing which I did not get completely. No chance, but thanks, No I may understand.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

The collar also has to sit on the outer end of the gear away from the motor. One cannot simply flip the small gear any which way.