I'm trying to decide between a Prusa I3 style printer and a Ormerod 2 printer. It looks like the ormerod 2 may be the better way to go in the long run but may still have some bugs to work out, I could be wrong about the problems.
Anyway I see I can get Ormerod 2 kits from Replikeo for $320 and from RepRapPro for around $700.
Is the Replikeo kit that bad or should it be fine? Does the kit from RepRapPro come with any extras?

Any help would be great.

From what i read Replikeos Ormerod will have an older duet and printed parts arent as good but otherwise should be same printer. The printer itself will run ok as it ships ,but if you want good performance you will have to mod it a bit. I highly suggest Dc42s IR sensor it works a lot better then the stock(but he only does mini version now i think)( [forums.reprap.org] ) and his firmware( [forums.reprap.org]) and Davek0974 aluminium X-arm( [forums.reprap.org] ).

Some of myown mods:
[www.thingiverse.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]

and general Upgrades that are for Ormerod 1 but will fit into Ormerod 2 aswell :[reprap.org] ,The Z gears and Extruder gears are esential.

For Prusa I3 i have no idea how good it is but i am quite happy with my Ormerod 2 altho i dont print as much as the rest of the forum i guess xD.

Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 12/10/2015 02:30PM by Darathy.

I was recently in the same exact position, here's a bit of my experience. I got set on the Ormerod vs. I3 pretty early on, so not much to comment on that.
In terms of the vendor, first of all, the price difference between Replikeo and Reprappro (or RS) is not quite that big. It also depends on where you are, shipping can get expensive.
I went with Replikeo. Shipping to US was about $75.
Overall, two main comments: if you don't mind fixing stuff and you are ready to tinker, then the Replikeo kit will be ok, but make sure the price difference is justified. Also, expect stuff to fail and do not expect customer service.

The kit was not quite the quality of what I see Reprappro is shipping. What I ended up getting was a hybrid: a 528.4 model with a quickset hot end.
The printed parts were a mixed bag. A month later, about half of them are already split or cracked. That may be a common problem, I don't know. It doesn't bother me much, some maintenance is expected for a kit printer. The belts were thicker, the pulleys were different (20 teeth vs the usual 18), the heater cartridge died after a few seconds. The wire looms are not shielded and with a crappy heatshrink. I had to redo and fix some of the crimping, those failures are a major pain to track down. So far, crimping was bad to the heater cartridge and to the bed thermistor.
Replikeo Support is virtually non-existant, so expect to buy any replacement parts yourself from a different source. On the positive side, I sure as hell learned a lot more through debugging a less than perfect kit than I would have otherwise.

The price difference is that big, here are the prices with shipping to me.
Replikeo = $380.24
ReprapPro = $710.99
So it is a big difference. So with the extra $330 what parts would I need to get and upgrades to end up with a better printer than I would start with from RepRapPro?
I love to tinker with stuff and mod it and make it better so I'm good with that. I know I would like to add the touch display and maybe a dual extrusion head. Other than the upgrades what parts should I just replace right away with better parts?

Thanks again

Quote
1pennyshort
I was recently in the same exact position, here's a bit of my experience. I got set on the Ormerod vs. I3 pretty early on, so not much to comment on that.
In terms of the vendor, first of all, the price difference between Replikeo and Reprappro (or RS) is not quite that big. It also depends on where you are, shipping can get expensive.
I went with Replikeo. Shipping to US was about $75.
Overall, two main comments: if you don't mind fixing stuff and you are ready to tinker, then the Replikeo kit will be ok, but make sure the price difference is justified. Also, expect stuff to fail and do not expect customer service.

The kit was not quite the quality of what I see Reprappro is shipping. What I ended up getting was a hybrid: a 528.4 model with a quickset hot end.
The printed parts were a mixed bag. A month later, about half of them are already split or cracked. That may be a common problem, I don't know. It doesn't bother me much, some maintenance is expected for a kit printer. The belts were thicker, the pulleys were different (20 teeth vs the usual 18), the heater cartridge died after a few seconds. The wire looms are not shielded and with a crappy heatshrink. I had to redo and fix some of the crimping, those failures are a major pain to track down. So far, crimping was bad to the heater cartridge and to the bed thermistor.
Replikeo Support is virtually non-existant, so expect to buy any replacement parts yourself from a different source. On the positive side, I sure as hell learned a lot more through debugging a less than perfect kit than I would have otherwise.

DC42 also makes touchscreen controller but you will have to buy the touchscreen: [miscsolutions.wordpress.com]

Well i think the electronics should be fine ,just get a pully with 18teeth(can wait till u get it and see if you get it with Replikeo) and mybe a thiner MXL belt so it will fit into the slots easyer.

The touchscreen setup I was looking at is the one that DC42 came up with.

1pennyshort did the printer from replikeo come with and sdcard slot? I want to be able to print without a computer if needed some times.

Quote
Darathy
DC42 also makes touchscreen controller but you will have to buy the touchscreen: [miscsolutions.wordpress.com]

Well i think the electronics should be fine ,just get a pully with 18teeth(can wait till u get it and see if you get it with Replikeo) and mybe a thiner MXL belt so it will fit into the slots easyer.

Quote
brlowe
The touchscreen setup I was looking at is the one that DC42 came up with.

1pennyshort did the printer from replikeo come with and sdcard slot? I want to be able to print without a computer if needed some times.

Quote
Darathy
DC42 also makes touchscreen controller but you will have to buy the touchscreen: [miscsolutions.wordpress.com]

Well i think the electronics should be fine ,just get a pully with 18teeth(can wait till u get it and see if you get it with Replikeo) and mybe a thiner MXL belt so it will fit into the slots easyer.

Yes, the electronics are pretty standard, ethernet, SD card slot, micro-usb. The Duet case on the other hand is pretty crappy.

Quote
brlowe
The price difference is that big, here are the prices with shipping to me.
Replikeo = $380.24
ReprapPro = $710.99
So it is a big difference. So with the extra $330 what parts would I need to get and upgrades to end up with a better printer than I would start with from RepRapPro?
I love to tinker with stuff and mod it and make it better so I'm good with that. I know I would like to add the touch display and maybe a dual extrusion head. Other than the upgrades what parts should I just replace right away with better parts?

Thanks again

Interesting. RS components has it for £351 (whatever that is in $) plus shipping, which is a lot closer to the Replikeo price.

There really is not a strong need to get parts proactively, but you might have to replace some that fail. If you do want to clean the kit up though: normal (thinner) MXL belt, otherwise you'll have a really hard time clamping the thick one they ship (ask me how I know); 18-tooth pulleys are an option, though 20-tooth work just fine, you'll have to adjust your config.g settings; my kit didn't come with the part cooling fan, so you'll need a fan if you want that; a borosilicate glass plate would be a good idea, the plexiglass they included was bowed from the start; the aluminum x-arm as recommended above; assorted spare M3 nuts and bolts, just in case, I had some missing pieces I had to scramble for.

After that, once you are up and running, there are many upgrades/improvements you can consider, I'm way down that path myself :-)

That 351 price is only $531 and that would be great except that is no good for USA . The price for here is 800-1000. Sucks for me.

[/quote]
Interesting. RS components has it for £351 (whatever that is in $) plus shipping, which is a lot closer to the Replikeo price.

There really is not a strong need to get parts proactively, but you might have to replace some that fail. If you do want to clean the kit up though: normal (thinner) MXL belt, otherwise you'll have a really hard time clamping the thick one they ship (ask me how I know); 18-tooth pulleys are an option, though 20-tooth work just fine, you'll have to adjust your config.g settings; my kit didn't come with the part cooling fan, so you'll need a fan if you want that; a borosilicate glass plate would be a good idea, the plexiglass they included was bowed from the start; the aluminum x-arm as recommended above; assorted spare M3 nuts and bolts, just in case, I had some missing pieces I had to scramble for.

After that, once you are up and running, there are many upgrades/improvements you can consider, I'm way down that path myself :-)[/quote]

Just be aware that the Replikeo DUET board are the early 0.6 version's with 1K resistors for the Thermistors instead of the current 4.7 K ones They still work very well. just something to be aware of in the Config.G file.

Doug

I have an Ormerod 1 & 2 and a Prusa I3, so this is from my experience:

I think the Ormerod 2 is a better out of the box printer - the Prusa i3 kits that I've seen are all RAMPS boards with pololu stepper driver chips of which I've managed to blow quite a few! The electronics are a little underpowered in comparison, and you really need to get the LCD board with the dial - that's essential - both for the SD interface and controlling the printer on the go. There's just no way that I'd enjoy using my printer without those.

The Ormerod web interface is fantastic, and I can imagine that with DC42's PanelDue screen addon it would be an easy winner!
The quality that I've seen from the Ormerod 2 is also fantastic once it's been correctly calibrated, but you either have to use DC42's IR board, or just manually adjust the z every time you turn on the printer - the O2's IR board is not much better than the O1's - it's still rather inaccurate in my opinion.

I use my I3 primarily for ABS, Nylon and Polycarbonate printing because I have an all metal hot end - the Ormerod can do ABS (with some very essential part reprinting), but not the higher temperature stuff.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/11/2015 05:49AM by VortyZA.

Quote
1pennyshort
... a borosilicate glass plate would be a good idea, the plexiglass they included was bowed from the start; the aluminum x-arm as recommended above; assorted spare M3 nuts and bolts, just in case, I had some missing pieces I had to scramble for.

I'd also suggest getting a triangular aluminium bed support, which allows you to set a level bed that rarely needs readjusting. It is not necessary to use borosilicate glass - normal float glass is perfectly adequate. Or do as I did and use a thick aluminium plate.

Dave

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/11/2015 07:03AM by dmould.

Quote
dmould
I'd also suggest getting a triangular aluminium bed support, which allows you to set a level bed that rarely needs readjusting. It is not necessary to use borosilicate glass - normal float glass is perfectly adequate. Or do as I did and use a thick aluminium plate.

Hi Dave,

Is the aluminium bed support also recommended for the Ormerod 2? I was under the impression (from reading these forums) that this was an improvement over the original Ormerod 1 but the bed support on the Ormerod 2 was good enough and didn't require the aluminium replacement.

Bart

At least it would not be easy to use an aluminum support. The MK2 is already designed to level the bed using three points.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Ok I'm starting to get a good idea of what I might need and what I will get just to make sure I'm good but still a couple of questions.

So I will get the Replikeo Ormerod 2 printer kit.
DC42's IR board
DC42's paneldue kit
Maybe from better printed parts or gears.
Upgrade belts as needed and gears to narrower belts for clearances.
X-Arm upgrade to Aluminium

Questions
With the ormerod 2 do I need the triangular aluminium bed support? Can someone provide a link as I'm not sure what it is?
Should I upgrade the Duet board? What is the newest version? Use the one with the kit and upgrade if and when it fails? Do the newer duet boards do anything different/better?

@VortyZA
"I use my I3 primarily for ABS, Nylon and Polycarbonate printing because I have an all metal hot end - the Ormerod can do ABS (with some very essential part reprinting), but not the higher temperature stuff."

What needs to be done to the ormerod 2 to let you print with the higher temp stuff? and what does that mean? And what parts need to be reprinted before doing ABS?

Thank you everyone

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/11/2015 10:19AM by brlowe.

The aluminium bed support may not be needed for the Ormerod 2 - my experience is with the Ormerod 1 so I was probably in error suggesting that as it would appear that the Ormerod 2 has corrected the design shortcomings of the Ormerod 1 bed support.

My suggestion would be to make the printer from the kit as supplied (which will get you printing), and then upgrade the parts you feel you need. DC42's sensor makes it a little more convenient to set up the printer at the start of every print but will not improve print quality. The difference between the old & new Duet boards are unlikely to be at all significant for you (it does not affect printing) - certainly not worth the expense of getting a new Duet board as an extra item. To print hotter plastics you will need to replace a few of the PLA printed parts that are "in the line of fire" of the heat from the hotend and heated bed - X carriage, hotend, fan parts, extruder parts. The PLA parts should however last long enough for you to get those printed in ABS so you don't need to get anything up-front. My suggestion is to first print those parts in PLA, then in ABS. That way, if the original PLA parts fail during the hotter ABS printing, you will have spare PLA parts to allow you to try again. I've slowly replaced most of the original PLA parts with ABS. You will also find several modified designs for various printed parts. IMO the gears for the Z screw and extruder are well worth changing to the herringbone gear design, and there are better extruder designs available to print.

If the kit is supplied with a PC power supply, I would recommend replacing it with a dedicated 12V PSU, such as a 30A LED PSU. To print with a hotter bed (as needed for ABS), you will find that the voltage needs to be turned up a volt or two else the bed struggles to reach the correct temperature. Most dedicated 12V PSUs have an adjustment where you can do that. Again, probably easiest to get printing with what is supplied in the kit first, and then you can make a more informed decision.

Dave

Thank you that looks like great advice.
I will get the printer kit and print out replacement/upgraded parts after I get it working. I will upgrade the power supply as needed after getting the kit.
I am going to order the x-arm kit as I do want that replaced and the Paneldue and IR board are things I want so I will get those too. This all should still keep me under the cost of the RepRapPro kit or close to it but with some upgrades that kit does not include.
Looking forward to the building experience and learning about 3D printing.

Brandon

Quote
dmould
The aluminium bed support may not be needed for the Ormerod 2 - my experience is with the Ormerod 1 so I was probably in error suggesting that as it would appear that the Ormerod 2 has corrected the design shortcomings of the Ormerod 1 bed support.

My suggestion would be to make the printer from the kit as supplied (which will get you printing), and then upgrade the parts you feel you need. DC42's sensor makes it a little more convenient to set up the printer at the start of every print but will not improve print quality. The difference between the old & new Duet boards are unlikely to be at all significant for you (it does not affect printing) - certainly not worth the expense of getting a new Duet board as an extra item. To print hotter plastics you will need to replace a few of the PLA printed parts that are "in the line of fire" of the heat from the hotend and heated bed - X carriage, hotend, fan parts, extruder parts. The PLA parts should however last long enough for you to get those printed in ABS so you don't need to get anything up-front. My suggestion is to first print those parts in PLA, then in ABS. That way, if the original PLA parts fail during the hotter ABS printing, you will have spare PLA parts to allow you to try again. I've slowly replaced most of the original PLA parts with ABS. You will also find several modified designs for various printed parts. IMO the gears for the Z screw and extruder are well worth changing to the herringbone gear design, and there are better extruder designs available to print.

If the kit is supplied with a PC power supply, I would recommend replacing it with a dedicated 12V PSU, such as a 30A LED PSU. To print with a hotter bed (as needed for ABS), you will find that the voltage needs to be turned up a volt or two else the bed struggles to reach the correct temperature. Most dedicated 12V PSUs have an adjustment where you can do that. Again, probably easiest to get printing with what is supplied in the kit first, and then you can make a more informed decision.

Dave

Quote
brlowe
With the ormerod 2 do I need the triangular aluminium bed support? Can someone provide a link as I'm not sure what it is?

Here's a link (pictures in the first posting)

Replacement Alu bed for those of us with no tools and/or time and/or confidence:
[forums.reprap.org]

The original bed support for Ormerod 1 was made of MDF and was sagging badly...and moved with temperature, read all about it in this string:

The bed should never have been created with MDF:
[forums.reprap.org]

..no it shouldn't and they changed that to plywood on Ormerod 2 and as others have noted, should be OK

Erik

One point to note: if you will be using a PanelDue, do not use the external 5V linear regulator that will be supplied with your Replikeo Duet. It can't supply enough current without overheating. Use the on-board 5V switching regulator instead, and use a multimeter to verify that it is producing 5V.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/11/2015 12:57PM by dc42.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Thanks DC42, I saw that info on the site where they sell the paneldue kit but this is a good reminder. I did send you a PM for pricing on your IR board and paneldue boards.

Brandon

Quote
dc42
One point to note: if you will be using a PanelDue, do not use the external 5V linear regulator that will be supplied with your Replikeo Duet. It can't supply enough current without overheating. Use the on-board 5V switching regulator instead, and use a multimeter to verify that it is producing 5V.

Quote
brlowe
... IR board..

Another upside with dc42 IR board is the nice, tidy and secure cabling

From this:



To This:




...my preeecious :-)

Erik

@Erik You should mention that this is not the Mini-IR-sensor board. As far as I know is that your version not available anymore.

@brlowe Here are some more detailed information as I am now at home and can write more:
The bed support did change totally. The shown aluminium bed support is not available anymore. As Idid not buy any kit for my Ormerod 2 I was considering to add the Aluminium bed as support for it. I have this kit for my Ormerod 1 and as I compared the connection I came very quick to the conclusion that it would not be very easy to add the Aluminium bed support because of missing holes for example. The Y-carriage would have to be connected to the Aluminium but there are no holes to provide this connection. Furthermore the holes for the cable ties for the heat bed cable are also missing.
Regarding the Duet: my Ormerod 1 was originally delivered even with an older version of the Duet board. Now it is equipped with the Duet board from Replikeo and the 5V regulator PCB is connected to my Ormerod 2. I do not have any problems anymore with the Duet board even though the first one broke with a strange error. dc42 is investigating if he can find a cause, but it seems like the board just broke without a reasonable cause. However the replacement is working well.m It is only a slightly older version, where the helping resistors for measuring the temperatures are dimensioned with 1 kilo Ohms. The newer boards like the board from my Ormerod 2 are quipped with 4700 Ohms. In theory this should slightly improve the temperature readings of the nozzle temperature. The first Ormerod 2 where also equipped with the 1k Ohms version. I cannot recognize a real difference between my Ormerod 1 and my Ormerod 2 so in practice there is no noticeable difference. At least you will have to figure out which temperature is the best for your filament. Okay to be real honest I have a slightly temperature difference regarding my Ormerod 1, but as I said you will have to test for the right temperature. And if the readings differs by 5°C you will not notice in practice. And thanks to dc42 his fork and the fork from chrishamm both provides a parameter to fix the temperature differences. I already added them to my config.g. Maybe this is the cause why I have no big differences between both printers.
The 5V regulator board provided by Replikeo may become problematic. It is simply missing some terminals. I will add a Duet shield to my Ormerod 2 sooner or later (the board is already here). According to the documentation this 5V regulator board will provide the 12V to this extension board, but exactly this terminal is missing. However I will connect them directly to the PSU.
PSU is a good point. I ordered the PSU from Replikeo for my Ormerod 2. I do not know if this is the same PSU equipped with the Hardware kit sold by Replikeo. My PSU provides about 360 Watts power. With the original hardware kit you will only get a 200 Watts powered PSU. However the main problem is the fan. It is very loud in the original version. Meanwhile the bearing is broken additionally. So I am really considering to get rid of the warranty and replace the fan by myself. I am an Electrical Engineer and therefore I would be qualified to do this. Unqualified persons should not open the PSU in any way as this is very dangerous! I have another PSU from Nunus with nearly the same data, but it provides "only" 350 Watts. The fan of this PSU is much quieter. However the disadvantage of this PSU regarding the PSU from Replikeo: It is not provided with a protection of touching the screwed terminal, where the input power is connected. Here in Germany we are talking about 230 Volts. You may laugh, but I really have a very big respect regarding voltages and power.

Best regards,

Sven

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
@Erik You should mention that this is not the Mini-IR-sensor board. As far as I know is that your version not available anymore.

I have PCBs for the Ormerod sensor board left, and if I get orders for 5 then I will make a new batch. I currently have a provisional order for 2.

However, I don't have an Ormerod 2, so I don't know the best way of attaching the sensor board to an Ormerod 2 hot end - in particular, the newer version with no ducting and an acrylic spacer instead.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

You can add me to that order list for the Ormerod sensor board.

Unfortunately I could not help either because I have a complete different nozzle. For my Ormerod 1 using dc42's one piece duct fan it would be easy to create an adapter as there are two holes at one side. My design for my Ormerod 2 nozzle holder provides similiar holes but the height may differ.
BTW even though I did not test these boards directly I ran some previous tests and these results already show the big quality of the sensor boards. I will soon create an own printer which will be added with one of the Mini-IR-boards or to be more specific a rebuild of this board. As long as you are not good in electronics the price is really fair, but you should consider to buy the Mini-IR-Board instead if you do not need the additionally indications.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/11/2015 03:14PM by Treito.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

I have posted(in my first post on this topic) my design for attaching your probe to O2 with acrylic spacer if he needs it.

@Daratgy Thanks for your design. For the Mini-IR-board you would need to print a tiny adapter plate like for all Ormerod models.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

@VortyZA, where do you source your polycarbonate filament from?

Ordered my Replikeo Ormerod 2 kit today so now it is the waiting game.
I will need to order filament for it to use after I put it together for testing.
What is the best filament to learn with and to use on a stock ormerod 2 printer?

Thanks for all the help and for helping me with all my future setup questions.

Brandon

I am very pleased with [3dfilaments.ie] ,altho i suspect it has a slightly lower melting point then the other brands of PLA. I really like how strong the part is and layer bonding is excelent, colors are very nice aswell. I've heard good things abaut Esun but personaly only tried luminus blue and wasnt as satisfied.