Ormerod 1 prints does not look good.

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Darathy

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ormerod168


this would do nicely, glue it to the x-arm with a very thin layer of Loctite 648:

Erik

Would epoxy glue work aswell? like thisone:[www.hobbyking.com]
I have some at home and wondering if it would hold it. Would Loctite 648 hold it better?

Not much info there so I do not know if it will hold against a steel surface

The glue should be:
Able to adhere to aluminium and steel
Thin (so any variation in the layer of glue will be small, the shim should follow the straight surface of the x-arm)
Slow drying (as to give time for the shim to even out the glue layer to the x-arm)

From the Loctite 648 product description:
"The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces"

Any excessive glue wont dry and can be wiped of

..but if I were you I would just go ahead and try what you have, no harm done if it don't stick, rough up the surface a bit, apply a thin even layer and use a lots of clamps (clothespins will do fine)

Erik

I still do not know what I can use as shim.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

i went to a store where they sell stainless steel and products made from it ,he had a scrap peice of plate 9mm wide. If you can locate a simular store in Germany you could probably get something.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/19/2015 12:47PM by Darathy.

Quote
ormerod168

Quote
Darathy

Quote
ormerod168


this would do nicely, glue it to the x-arm with a very thin layer of Loctite 648:

Erik

Would epoxy glue work aswell? like thisone:[www.hobbyking.com]
I have some at home and wondering if it would hold it. Would Loctite 648 hold it better?

Not much info there so I do not know if it will hold against a steel surface

The glue should be:
Able to adhere to aluminium and steel
Thin (so any variation in the layer of glue will be small, the shim should follow the straight surface of the x-arm)
Slow drying (as to give time for the shim to even out the glue layer to the x-arm)

From the Loctite 648 product description:
"The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces"

Any excessive glue wont dry and can be wiped of

..but if I were you I would just go ahead and try what you have, no harm done if it don't stick, rough up the surface a bit, apply a thin even layer and use a lots of clamps (clothespins will do fine)

Erik

i see your point, this glue is verry dense and would probably make the surface uneaven.

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Darathy
i see your point, this glue is verry dense and would probably make the surface uneaven.

...but it may not be a problem at all as your shim is 1mm and therefore pretty rigid

don't mind me, I have a pernittingryn'ish* approach to everything :-)

*) person who attaches too much importance to minor details

Erik

I still have no real idea what I can do now.

First of all I decided to print a new X-arm. So my Ormerod 1 will be soon back and I have full access to the aluminium X-arm. For the moment I think I will use the shims that are too long and make holes for the screws. I know this will not look very pretty, but hey this is a printer and the Ormerod 1 is complicated and needs often maintenance. My Ormerod 2 runs much better.
Then I am able to go to a local Hardware store after the holidays to look for a more suite solution if possible. Maybe I wil use a stainless steel ruler or anything else like a decorative strip?

Besides that I am still not able to level the bed in a good way. So I am still wondering if I should convert my Ormerod 1 to an Ormerod 2. that means changing the y-axis and the bed support. Eventhough I have the aluminium bed support.
regarding the nozzle I think I should also change to the 0.4mm nozzle after damaging my heater block and mostly important: I could use my files for both printers.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Update: So i have glued the strip with Epoxy and will see how long it will last:

What if I am using the newer X-carriage and use the bottom side of the X-arm?

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
What if I am using the newer X-carriage and use the bottom side of the X-arm?

You will have to smooth it out as it is rough atleast mine is. i think Davek is smoothening it in newest batches.

It is not perfect but it should do the job. I want to get the printer back to print. It would be only temporary until I find a suitable shim. The X-carriage has to be changed in any way. This would also give me some time to decide what to do with the y-axis.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
chrishamm

Quote
dmould
I decided to get my X-arm anodized - mainly for the appearance (it's a really nice electric blue colour). But anodizing also creates a harder surface on the aluminium, and perhaps that it why there is no sign of wear under the bearing despite having had a lot of use. Anodizing a single part is however likely to cost as much as the arm!

Dave

Sounds interesting, now I'm curious what that looks like :-) Could you post a photo?

Well, belatedly here is what my X-arm looks like. Bit messy as I had been doing a bit of filing on some recently printed parts so everything is covered in plastic dust.



Dave

Looks nice but you have also a trace of the bearing. Is there a groove?

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
Looks nice but you have also a trace of the bearing. Is there a groove?

I'll have a close look when I get back, but AFAIK that's just dust that has been deposited by the bearing.

Dave

Quote
dmould

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Treito
Looks nice but you have also a trace of the bearing. Is there a groove?

I'll have a close look when I get back, but AFAIK that's just dust that has been deposited by the bearing.

Dave

Thats how mine looked it was in the begining stages had like a tiny groove starting to form. Otherwise that blue arm looks really awsome!

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Darathy

Quote
dmould

Quote
Treito
Looks nice but you have also a trace of the bearing. Is there a groove?

I'll have a close look when I get back, but AFAIK that's just dust that has been deposited by the bearing.

Dave

Thats how mine looked it was in the begining stages had like a tiny groove starting to form. Otherwise that blue arm looks really awsome!

This is how mine looks now as you see above so I am alarmed and I am afraid that this treatment is not very successful even though it looks really nice.
This look makes me cure how my Ormerod 2 X-arm would look like with eSun blue transparent PETG as it is dark blue but light causes effects. My 3DBenchy looks really interesting.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Yes, on looking closely I see that the top of the bearing has indeed worn through the anodizing, though the slight groove can only just be felt. So I'll be needing to fit a steel shim pretty soon.

Dave

So your anodizing gives a pretty good look but unfortunately no protection. Does your bearing runs free? Meanwhile I think that a blocking bearing is not the problem.
I am astonished that PLA is much more stable. I only can see some sort of trace at my X-arm but no damage.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

So I may have found the ideal shim for the Ormerod if I can get it. Unfortunately it costs around 5€ plus gas and it is too long. I will only get 500mm instead of 300mm (5.95€ instead of 4.75€). but wait that must be not a big disadvantage so I maybe can cut even two out of them. So there is no need for changing to the underside of the arm. The shim is 13mm wide so it seems to be nearly perfect. And it is: a steel lineal. Like I said.
So there are only 4 left at the hardware store and I have to hurry as I am not ready to leave now. So wish me good luck. The other Hardware store here seems not to have such tools or they do not provide them online. They only have 30mm wide and really expensive ones.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
..I will only get 500mm instead of 300mm (5.95€ instead of 4.75€). but wait that must be not a big disadvantage so I maybe can cut even two out of them.

Yes 500mm will be plenty for two shims

Erik

But the picture was wrong. I was lucky to get the last 300mm lineal.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Hello Erik,

first of all I would like to thank you for your often detailed posts and assistance. Unfortunately you do not see this often and you spend a lot of time in this so I decided to open a new thread with a how-to. Maybe it can be of use for somebody else.
So what can I say now? I used the wrong super glue. Now my fingers are glued to the X-arm! No, just kidding, I know how to use it. But I should have choosen the more liquid one, but this one is not easy to handle. The glue is not perfect. At the front where the holder is and the bend of the X-arm (or in other words at x=214mm) it is a little bit too high. About 0.1 or 0.2mm It was too fast so I was not able to correct it anymore. Do you know how long I have to wait until I can reassemble my printer?

Best regards,

Sven

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

The breakage has also some good aspects. I am learning and learning.I wanted to replace the x-motor bracket as the sensor has trouble to catch the x-homing position even though I printed the version with an extended (but small) homing pad. I printed the standard one with my MK2 and added a sensor pad. I then tried to mount it, but I was not able as Simplify3D printed the wholes to small - again. But I have learned how to fix this.
Besides that I cannot use the z-homing procedure of my MK2 so i decided to give the tilt method another try. It seems that is working for much users and my Ormerod 1 is equipped with the original y-carriage and additional aluminium bed support. So this is hopefully stable enough that the nozzle will not push down the bed before the hot-end tilts. I designed a new nozzle holder and I hope this will fit. It is totally untested and I guessed using a design found on Thingiverse. It is a quick and dirty design and not the final design as I have no suitable screws (they are too short) and I have to mount it from the bottom. For testing this is okay. If this works and I get suitable screws I will hopefully be able to move the switch closer to the nozzle and maybe I could even use it to home the X-axis. I have an ultra-miniature microswitch. It is the only one with lever I have at the moment. Besides that the normal sized switch like the y-endstop would be too big in my eyes.
So unfortunately I was not able to assemble my Ormerod 1 yet as just in this moment the last part got finished. that means the nozzle mount. I really hope this fits. I have to get back my MK1 back to work as two parts of my MK2 nearly broke (construction issue) and another 2 or three parts needs to be replaced (printing issue, now I know the cause). Besides that I would like to exchange the pulleys of my MK2 so they have also 18 teeth.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

I didn't think mine was wearing badly, but checking closely today I have found that my bearing is also wearing a small groove in, though it turns freely. Looks like I need to go find some shim stock too.

So I am nearly finished, but I only could use the original MR93ZZ bearing as the bigger one caused that the nozzle was not angled.
I have a new problem with this d*** printer. Now the heater cartridge slipped off the heater block. Maybe I really should consider replacing the nozzle with a chinese 0.4mm nozzle.

Meanwhile my Ormerod 2 urgently needs a service. For example the bed support is melted. The ABL can fix this problem at the moment, but who knows how long?

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
So I am nearly finished, but I only could use the original MR93ZZ bearing as the bigger one caused that the nozzle was not angled.
I have a new problem with this d*** printer. Now the heater cartridge slipped off the heater block. Maybe I really should consider replacing the nozzle with a chinese 0.4mm nozzle.

Meanwhile my Ormerod 2 urgently needs a service. For example the bed support is melted. The ABL can fix this problem at the moment, but who knows how long?

Mine is permanently stuck inside the aluminum block, i tried to remove it as if it was glued in. So when it goes the whole thing goes for me.

Maybe it is moveable when it is hot?
I can't push it fully in. Recommissioning didn't succeed, because the sensor was too deep so I didn't get the first layer to stick and if there would have been a chance the sensor would remove the print. So I need a new spacer.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.