Corner Lift on PLA large part

Hi,

Can anyone help? Why is the part lift at this corner? Tried is twice and lifts each time here... running at 200'C for the PLA I am using (If I run lower I have noticed that the layer truly dont knit properly and then I get delamination of the layers) Bed temp at 20'C

I am trying to print out the lower Z mount (as I spotted the one I have has a crack on a part of it)

I have posted (Cos of image size) to my blog

[techyman3d.blogspot.com]

Thanks in advance

Is it at the low Y or the high Y end? Backwash from the hot end fan can contribute to warping of parts at the low Y end. A fan inlet duct fixes that.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Erm Low/High? Assume Low means closest to the Stepper motor? If so then this is at the high end



Thanks

'Low' meaning neat the Y=0 end of the bed. The stepper motor is on different ends depending on whether it is an Ormerod 1 or 2.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/19/2015 04:24PM by dc42.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Ah in that case the corner lift was happening at the high end of the y axis!, the Fan is pointing towards the low end of the y axis

Hi Tig.... You don't say what sort of Platform (Bed) your printing on....
When I use the Ormerod I normally print directly on to Glass without a coating (using PLA)....
But to do it I have to ensure the Glass is freshly scrubbed clean and dried with fresh clean Kitchen Roll.
If I have problems with getting a print to initially stick I clean the Glass with Vinegar, while the bed is heating up.

Try running the Bed at 57'c. I've found 60' causes blistering, so try to check the temp of the Bed as the Thermister might be slightly out.
For example...I have a different Printer I'm trying hard to make print as well as the Ormerod did which is 23' out... So check the temperature if you can.

You can also try adding a BRIM in Slic3r which increases the contact area of a print, and also acts like a blanket that holds the heat in around the print.
Good Luck,
Kim...

(BTW.... I'm not an Ormerod deserter...lol.... I have the Big O with me here at work awaiting repair... It became the Best Printer I have before finally giving up and needing some much deserved TLC)

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Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
I won't see comments in threads, as I move around to much.
Working Link to Big Blue 360 Complete

So I am printing on Blue painters tape on glass, running the temp at 20 for the bed, 200 for the PLA, This has been fine for smaller prints, however now have scaled up to a large print it lift on the same corner.

What is becoming clear to me here is that soo many people have different ways of printing PLA regarding the bed material! - I started off with Kapton tape on the glass bed (as this is what the printer came with), and I had problems with corners of the print lifting, Hence reading around most people seemed to go with Blue painters tape where surface finish wasnt an issue as meant that parts stayed down better - which I found until this part. I thought that it may be the tape needed replacing (which I did, and then it was still doing it).

The corner of the part that keeps lifting is directly exposed to any potential drafts - could this be an issue? i.e. the desk at work that this is located on is in a corner (opposite to my desk), and diagonally opposite to the desk is an external door (that is hardly opened, but does have a slight draft - which is around 3m away)

I have attached a quick sketch of the office. The squares are desks, the D shape is the print. Red star is the corner that lifts. Stepper motor and Y axis zero would be the left side of the star.

Sometimes kapton tape is better to use with PLA. This highly depends on the filament. Also the temperature is one aspect. Maybe your Extruder temperature is too high.
Printing onto glass highly depends on the material.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

This is obviously not an exact science and what works for one might not work for another.
I have been printing PLA on a bed with kapton on glass and have never once had a warping/lifting issue. I print the first 2 layers at 62 then drop to 57.
A lot less maintenance is required on the bed: just clean with alcohol every 20 prints or so and keep the fingers off the kapton surface.

So even though for smaller parts I was getting better adhesion on Blue painters tape (as I was getting corner lifting from Kapton), that for larger pieces going back to Kapton may be best to acheieve adhesion!???

First of all you may have other filament. Secondly you have to find the right temperature for the bed when printing onto Kapton tape. The window is only 5 degrees wide. At least with my filament. BuildTak and PrintBite are much better suitable.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Maybe I should really buy some new filament, one that I know the spec (As the filament came with the printer and its second hand from Ebay, the person who sold it never got round to using it and brought it from a chap in bristol!). At least that way I would know what I am dealing with

OK anyone know good PLA supplier? that works reliably?- Going to want to get some glow in the dark stuff as well (Order from the wife!)


Thanks

That is buying form the UK

Looking at the pics I would say your bed levelling isn't working that well, the print look as if it's printing too high where it has curled, so low adhesion combined with the fact the part is narrow there and the tension on the outside corner will make it want to lift.

If you want good adhesion on the cheap, kapton tape roughed up with 600 grit wet and dry paper works very well. Also if you print the first layer and let it cool down to near room temp it grips better and there is no additional heat being put into the print.
Using this method you might have to get the bed back up to temp when the print has finished to actually be able to get it off!

Quote
Firefox3D
...If you want good adhesion on the cheap, kapton tape roughed up with 600 grit wet and dry paper works very well.

I always do that, works very well for me too

Quote

Also if you print the first layer and let it cool down to near room temp it grips better and there is no additional heat being put into the print.
Using this method you might have to get the bed back up to temp when the print has finished to actually be able to get it off!

Interesting, will have to try that!

Erik

Hi Thanks

The Bed is level, although lose (Have just found this out) - So moves at the edges (Need to dismantle and tighten up the bed), Prints fine if the print is in the middle.

Thanks

Hi, I had the same problem, and these steps seemed to fix it.
1) make sure you have good bed adhesion (I use pva glue on glass).
2) make sure your bed is sufficiently heated (i set mine to 55 for the first layers and then 40 for the remainder)
3) I use a fan cover to direct the airflow, and try to eliminate any unwanted flow in directions that may cause the print to cool faster in one segment than another.
4) I slice my files with a 3mm skirt, increasing the surface area of print in contact with the bed (better adhesion)
5) it is crucial that your extruder is the right height from the bed when the print starts (in order to get the squish needed for the first layer). I found that setting z at zero, and deleting the g28 z0 segment of g code after you slice the files worked a treat.
6) this may be just my printer - I print one model at a time because I found that the extruder was prone to skipping when jumping from model to model (I need to look more into this)

Anyway, hope this helps - and guys (and girls) please advise if you have and suggestions for me as well, deciphered this through months of trial and error and lots of advise from the forum and general Internet.