Z-axis is making noise

The z-axis is making a bad noise, squeaking and scratching. Also there's some residue of something, on the table under the z-axis motor. Like powder.
Do I need to treat the rod in anyway?

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bitfield
The z-axis is making a bad noise, squeaking and scratching. Also there's some residue of something, on the table under the z-axis motor. Like powder.
Do I need to treat the rod in anyway?

Sounds like the threaded/nut lost the oil film and is running metal to metal, take it down and give it a good clean with solvent, then oil lightly and run a new nut though the whole length by hand to make sure it runs freely all the way, as lubricant 3 in 1 oil can be used, I personally prefer something better, like high grade motor oil

If you still use the original steel nut you should change that for a (longer) brass or bronze nut and the threaded rod for a straight stainless steel one, best is to change both parts at the same time

...if that is the source of the squeaking and scratching...do you have a cat in the house?

Erik

I don't have a cat

Actually both the nut and the rod is original so I should probably go ahead and buy myself some parts for christmas present. Thanks!

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ormerod168
If you still use the original steel nut you should change that for a (longer) brass or bronze nut and the threaded rod for a straight stainless steel one, best is to change both parts at the same time

Why this combination? At the moment I use for both components stainless steel. (Before you ask, I already ordered brass nuts). So why this combination?
[aliexpress.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/25/2015 10:04PM by Treito.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

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Treito

Quote
ormerod168
If you still use the original steel nut you should change that for a (longer) brass or bronze nut and the threaded rod for a straight stainless steel one, best is to change both parts at the same time

Why this combination? At the moment I use for both components stainless steel. (Before you ask, I already ordered brass nuts). So why this combination?
[aliexpress.com]

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http://copper-casting-alloys.brass-copper-fittings.com/nickel_tin_gear_bronzes.htm
At high relative surface speeds, full film or hydrodynamic lubrication will separate the steel to steel pair, but at lower speeds, the asperities (surface roughness) of the mating parts contact each other. This results in severe wear of both steel parts. With the bronze to steel pair, the stronger steel asperities shear of the weaker bronze asperities.

Erik