Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage
Posted by brlowe
|
Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 01, 2016 04:49PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 89 |
I just got my new kit and started to put it together. I have the carriage put together but it does not slide back and forth very smoothly so I think the bearings are carp. Should it be smooth? I'm thinking of ordering some replacements, where can I get some quality bearings here in the states?
What part number should I order?
The bearings in the kit are number LM12UU.
What part number should I order?
The bearings in the kit are number LM12UU.
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 01, 2016 05:56PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 164 |
Do you mean the Y-carriage? The bearings should be a tight fit, but if you tip the rails so they're pointing at the ceiling, they should slide on the rails under their own weight.
Make sure your steel rails are polished, smooth, and straight. Get some Scotch-Brite and clean them up.
You have the benefit of Amazon in the USA, so that's the first place I'd look. I ordered mine from nzminiaturebearings.co.nz and the quality is excellent. Obviously not in the USA, but they had everything I needed except the LM12LUU's (the long ones on the x-carriage).
Make sure your steel rails are polished, smooth, and straight. Get some Scotch-Brite and clean them up.
You have the benefit of Amazon in the USA, so that's the first place I'd look. I ordered mine from nzminiaturebearings.co.nz and the quality is excellent. Obviously not in the USA, but they had everything I needed except the LM12LUU's (the long ones on the x-carriage).
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 01, 2016 07:15PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Is it a kit from Replikeo? Did you try to swap the bearings? Did you turn the screws too tight?
If you have a working printer you can also try to print linear sliding bearings as replacement
These are working really good and they are much quieter. Only for the Z-axis they did not work for me.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
If you have a working printer you can also try to print linear sliding bearings as replacement
These are working really good and they are much quieter. Only for the Z-axis they did not work for me.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 01, 2016 10:13PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 89 |
It is from a kit, going to try moving the bearings around after I clean the rods and bearings real good. The bearings are very rough when you slide them along the rods, like they have flat spots in them. They make a lot of noise too. The tray does not move back and forth very smoothly, it clicks and binds.
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 02, 2016 02:36AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
But from where did you get the kit? It would be good to know if this is an original kit or not.
First of all please free the bearings so they could run alone. You may start with the front bearing which is alone. How about the tray now? Then free all three rods and make sure that there is now part on it. Do they behave the same? Did you try to lubricate them with silicone spray (please do not use WD-40 or similiar with the printer).
I asuume that you may have malformed the bearings by exposing too much force to them as they indeed can be bend.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
First of all please free the bearings so they could run alone. You may start with the front bearing which is alone. How about the tray now? Then free all three rods and make sure that there is now part on it. Do they behave the same? Did you try to lubricate them with silicone spray (please do not use WD-40 or similiar with the printer).
I asuume that you may have malformed the bearings by exposing too much force to them as they indeed can be bend.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 02, 2016 05:47AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 638 |
i am guessing they provided some low quality bearings ,i suggest buying some new ones :[www.ebay.com]
They may take a while to be delivered tho.
They may take a while to be delivered tho.
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 02, 2016 05:47AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 638 |
i am guessing they provided some low quality bearings ,i suggest buying some new ones :[www.ebay.com]
They may take a while to be delivered tho.
They may take a while to be delivered tho.
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 02, 2016 05:55AM |
Registered: 11 years ago Posts: 1,230 |
Quote
brlowe
It is from a kit, going to try moving the bearings around after I clean the rods and bearings real good. The bearings are very rough when you slide them along the rods, like they have flat spots in them...
Place bearing in a jar, ad solvent, put on lid, give it a good shake
Blow out the solvent and grit with an air hose, use the air stream to get the balls on the move along the rail but take care not too fast (without the lubricant its steel against steel!)
Repeat (ad new solvent) until used solvent comes out clean
Lubricating, soak with oil, place the bearing vertically for an hour or so to let the excessive oil run off
Erik
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 02, 2016 08:40AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 638 |
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 02, 2016 11:55AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 89 |
Just to answer some of the question.
It is a new printer kit from Replikeo.
I did not over tighten the bearings, I have been a mech and an instrument tech for many years and know how to be careful.
I will clean all the rods more than I have and I will put the bearings in my ultrasonic cleaner then lubricate them well and see if that helps.
I think they include low quality bearings in the kit. I have found CNC bearings here in the states for $2 each so I may just order some of those and see if that is better.
It is a new printer kit from Replikeo.
I did not over tighten the bearings, I have been a mech and an instrument tech for many years and know how to be careful.
I will clean all the rods more than I have and I will put the bearings in my ultrasonic cleaner then lubricate them well and see if that helps.
I think they include low quality bearings in the kit. I have found CNC bearings here in the states for $2 each so I may just order some of those and see if that is better.
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 02, 2016 12:40PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
As you have a kit from Replikeo you may have got bad bearings from them.
Alternatively you can print some bearings, too. That really works and they are much quieter.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
Alternatively you can print some bearings, too. That really works and they are much quieter.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 03, 2016 10:51AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 89 |
So I cleaned the bearings and rods then oiled the bearings and only ones of them feels good sliding on the rod so going to replace them.
Do these look ok?
[cncsuperstore.com]
Do these look ok?
[cncsuperstore.com]
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 03, 2016 10:58AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 638 |
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 04, 2016 10:50AM |
Registered: 11 years ago Posts: 2,472 |
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 04, 2016 04:56PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 89 |
Well one of the bearings did feel better on the same rod that felt like crap with all the other bearings.
I have already ordered a full set of bearings plu a couple spares.
Where can I get good quality rods if I decide to replace those too?
I have already ordered a full set of bearings plu a couple spares.
Where can I get good quality rods if I decide to replace those too?
Quote
dmould
There is also the possibility that the rods are not good quality ground rods.
Dave
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 05, 2016 01:19AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
I got mine at eBay and they have a better quality than the original ones as the cut edges are also flattened a bit.
Maybe you can get someone here:
[www.motedis.com]
But they do not provide the needed length. You can grab the information you need.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
Maybe you can get someone here:
[www.motedis.com]
But they do not provide the needed length. You can grab the information you need.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 06, 2016 02:41PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,671 |
I saw some 500mm 12mm rods on ebay the other day, very cheap about £5.99 or 6.99.
obviously they have to be aligned or the bearings will bind, but I see you tested individually and found some bearings that where bad, like I had the 8mm ones they where bad, I got 2 types of 12mm, one like yours(21mm OD) and one where you can see the balls through slots (19mm OD), as the 19mm fits inside my black clamp block, but I have also have a longer one on order, great deal at £1, can't wait for that to arrive as I feel it will be better than both of them, as was the case with the 8mm ones, and will help to reduce any movement. I also decide to use Crab Clamps to clamp my bearings, I didnt even need to have 3 bearings just 2.
Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 01/06/2016 04:17PM by MechaBits.
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 06, 2016 05:35PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 164 |
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 07, 2016 12:28AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
My ones were not very expensive. I directly ordered 350mm as this was offered. Only the shipping cost was a little bit higher than usual. I ended up with around 18€ for 8 rods. I ordered a spare set. I do not know why exactly. Just in case they would be better than the original ones. It was no order of precise rods, but the after treatment of the cuts was indeed a little bit better than the original ones and the length is exactly. The shipped ones of my Ormerod 1 were all too long and not equally long.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 08, 2016 08:05AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,671 |
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 08, 2016 08:27AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 89 |
I got my new bearings yesterday, they are much better than the bearings from the kit.
I have been looking at the rods under an eye loupe and they are rough. I'm going to try and smooth them out but may be getting new rods too.
What are the dimensions of the rods I need and what is the correct search for them so I can see if I can find a local (USA) source for them.
Brandon
I have been looking at the rods under an eye loupe and they are rough. I'm going to try and smooth them out but may be getting new rods too.
What are the dimensions of the rods I need and what is the correct search for them so I can see if I can find a local (USA) source for them.
Brandon
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 08, 2016 08:53AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 23 |
Quote
brlowe
I got my new bearings yesterday, they are much better than the bearings from the kit.
I have been looking at the rods under an eye loupe and they are rough. I'm going to try and smooth them out but may be getting new rods too.
What are the dimensions of the rods I need and what is the correct search for them so I can see if I can find a local (USA) source for them.
Brandon
I have just ordered these as some of my rods are less than ideal as well. They seem to have the right dimensions, I'll let everyone know what the quality is and how they fit once I get them.
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 08, 2016 09:06AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 89 |
Those look nice and I can get them fast but they say they are 13 inches long and my shafts are almost 14 inches long (13 3/4 inches or 35cm or .350mm).
So what is the correct length for a Ormerod 2 printer?
So what is the correct length for a Ormerod 2 printer?
Quote
1pennyshort
I have just ordered these as some of my rods are less than ideal as well. They seem to have the right dimensions, I'll let everyone know what the quality is and how they fit once I get them.
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 08, 2016 01:21PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 638 |
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 08, 2016 01:31PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 89 |
Thats what I though I would find out. Seems 350mm long is a special order everywhere. I will see if I need them after I polish the shafts that I have. I'm hoping that will fix them enough to work.
Quote
Darathy
Quote
brlowe
Those look nice and I can get them fast but they say they are 13 inches long and my shafts are almost 14 inches long (13 3/4 inches or 35cm or .350mm).
So what is the correct length for a Ormerod 2 printer?
They need to be atleast 350mm long
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 09, 2016 02:19AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 23 |
Quote
Darathy
Quote
brlowe
Those look nice and I can get them fast but they say they are 13 inches long and my shafts are almost 14 inches long (13 3/4 inches or 35cm or .350mm).
So what is the correct length for a Ormerod 2 printer?
They need to be atleast 350mm long
Yup, you guys are right, good thing I checked. I cancelled my order, so I'll be looking for a good source too.
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 09, 2016 01:52PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 89 |
Ok so I polished the shafts and oiled the new bearings. Started to put it back together and the carriage I very rough going back and forth.
What I found is if I tighten the holders of the bearings down they make the bearings sit out of line so it puts pressure on the bearings and they are rough. If I loosen the holders it is ok.
My question is, is this normal?
I can lock tight the screws.
What has everyone else done?
What I found is if I tighten the holders of the bearings down they make the bearings sit out of line so it puts pressure on the bearings and they are rough. If I loosen the holders it is ok.
My question is, is this normal?
I can lock tight the screws.
What has everyone else done?
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 09, 2016 03:36PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Nobody can say that I did not warn or ask you.Quote
Treito
Did you turn the screws too tight?
It is kind of normal, but it is hard to say. Maybe there is also something wrong with your holders. For me it was working, but it's part of my profession to tighten screws without overtighten them. You can't tight them very tight, but they are not getting loose easily. Maybe your holder is not deep enough.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 09, 2016 03:55PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 89 |
|
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage January 09, 2016 05:27PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Hand tight - I love this impression. This was meant ironically and really not in a bad way. For example it took me some broken ceramic motor terminal blocks until I knew what the meaning of "hand tight" is.
At my favorite place for ideas I indeed just got an idea: When did you mount the holders for the bearing to the Y-rib? That could be important as the documentation says that you have to put the bearings on the rod first. Possible reason:
At the Ormerod 1 the bearings tend to leave the clamps. So I guess the designer of the MK2 clamps decided to clamp the bearings to the Y-rib. Maybe the rod is pretending the bearing from getting bent too much. I did not test this, but I can imagine it as I wondered why you have to do such a complete procedure to mount the bearings.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
At my favorite place for ideas I indeed just got an idea: When did you mount the holders for the bearing to the Y-rib? That could be important as the documentation says that you have to put the bearings on the rod first. Possible reason:
At the Ormerod 1 the bearings tend to leave the clamps. So I guess the designer of the MK2 clamps decided to clamp the bearings to the Y-rib. Maybe the rod is pretending the bearing from getting bent too much. I did not test this, but I can imagine it as I wondered why you have to do such a complete procedure to mount the bearings.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.