RepRapPro closing down

I use the Chinese replika of an E3D without any trouble. The nozzle diameter is 0.4mm and the prints are better than the prints of my Ormerod 1. The 3DBenchy nearly has no errors with a printing speed of 50mm/s. With my Ormerod 1 I get much more errors using similar settings and the same filament.
It should be possible to enhance my nozzle connection to two replika nozzles.
BTW according to the pictures Replikeo seems to use original looking clones of the nozzles, maybe they get them from RepRapPro China? They also use the original hobbed insert even for the Prusa I3 Dual Extruder because they mentioned that this printer uses the Ormerod Extruders (even though the design is a little bit different).

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

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Davek0974
No reason it would need to be 316, any stainless is pretty nasty to machine.

I have no equipment small enough to drill a 0.5 or 0.3mm hole though.

I should think that a pillar drill would be capable of doing the job (using a PCB drill bit e.g. [www.pcbsupplies.co.uk]), though a higher speed drill such as a Dremmel would be better.

Dave

For Christmas a relative of mine got an Ormerod 2 from Replikeo. It has the Quick-set hotend. The hotend parts looked great. The only thing that seemed a bit battered/dogy was the metal clamping block that holds the nozzles to the printer. Nonetheless it functioned fine. The original ormerod 2's from Replikeo used the standard nozzles but they have since changed to the quick-set hotends.

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dmould

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Davek0974
No reason it would need to be 316, any stainless is pretty nasty to machine.

I have no equipment small enough to drill a 0.5 or 0.3mm hole though.

I should think that a pillar drill would be capable of doing the job (using a PCB drill bit e.g. [www.pcbsupplies.co.uk]), though a higher speed drill such as a Dremmel would be better.

Dave

To get that size hole, you will need to be spinning the drill at 12,000 rpm or around 10m/min tip speed, feed rate would be around 0.01mm/rev, not really a drillpress job )
Dremel will get maybe 10,000rpm. if you could mount that you might do it but will break a lot bits
You need an air spindle probably

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/08/2016 08:18AM by Davek0974.

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Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

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Mitch
For Christmas a relative of mine got an Ormerod 2 from Replikeo. It has the Quick-set hotend. The hotend parts looked great. The only thing that seemed a bit battered/dogy was the metal clamping block that holds the nozzles to the printer. Nonetheless it functioned fine. The original ormerod 2's from Replikeo used the standard nozzles but they have since changed to the quick-set hotends.

Looking at Replikeo website even their i3 Prusa is using the Ormerod hotends. They sell dual nozzle upgrades for the i3.....
But looking at the pictures of the kit, looks like they are mounting two hotends right next to each other - instead of using a 2 nozzle cooling block...
[www.replikeo.com]
But that picture might be out of date, since it shows the one piece nozzles, not the quick set nozzles


ATM it doesn't look like they have spare nozzles etc. on their store - which seems a little odd.

Someone should probably contact them and see if they are willing to (or planning to) carry some of this stuff with RRP closing down.

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Davek0974

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dmould

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Davek0974
No reason it would need to be 316, any stainless is pretty nasty to machine.

I have no equipment small enough to drill a 0.5 or 0.3mm hole though.

I should think that a pillar drill would be capable of doing the job (using a PCB drill bit e.g. [www.pcbsupplies.co.uk]), though a higher speed drill such as a Dremmel would be better.

Dave

To get that size hole, you will need to be spinning the drill at 110,000 rpm or 10m/min tip speed, feed rate would be around 0.01mm/rev, not a drillpress job )
Dremel will get maybe 10,000rpm.
You need an air spindle.

Also the tolerances on that hole are 0.30mm +- 0.02mm
Hand holding a Dremel might at best give +- 0.50mm So worse case nozzle size is 0.80mm rather than the 0.30mm needed/ordered by customer.
I would think also using a worn out drill bit would push it out of tolerances as well.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/08/2016 08:28AM by orictosh.

My Replikeo Ormerod 2 kit just got to my house less than 2 weeks ago. I have not assembled the hot end yet as I'm still messing with Bearings and rods. I can take pictures of what I have. The nozzle looks different than some of the ones I have seen pictures of and I'm not sure what I'm looking at. I'm never any good at posting pictures so if someone wants to PM me their email address I can send them to you and you can post them for me.

Thanks Brandon

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Mitch
For Christmas a relative of mine got an Ormerod 2 from Replikeo. It has the Quick-set hotend. The hotend parts looked great. The only thing that seemed a bit battered/dogy was the metal clamping block that holds the nozzles to the printer. Nonetheless it functioned fine. The original ormerod 2's from Replikeo used the standard nozzles but they have since changed to the quick-set hotends.

I can confirm that the Replikeo kit I got back in Nov had the 0.5mm quickset hotend. Haven't really had any issues with it, it works well, but I am going the E3D route myself anyways.

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orictosh
Also the tolerances on that hole are 0.30mm +- 0.02mm
Hand holding a Dremel might at best give +- 0.50mm So worse case nozzle size is 0.80mm rather than the 0.30mm needed/ordered by customer.
I would think also using a worn out drill bit would push it out of tolerances as well.

Why do you say the tolerance is so tight? Considering that you can print with any nozzle size between about 0.3mm and 1.0mm, I don't see why the tolerance needs be particularly good - the nozzle size does not determine the extrusion width, only its minimum and maximum width and max speed. If the nozzle is not quite the same size as has been set in the slicer it will not affect the print significantly (though you could always set the size retrospectively to be equal to whatever the diameter of the hole turns out to be - as measured by inserting various SWG wires).

You can buy a small hobbyist drill press that takes a Dremmel, or probably fabricate something to hold the tool for a one-off hole.

Dave

Has anyone ever tried this multicolor filament merger that Adrian posted to the O2 GitHub a couple of years ago? [github.com]



At this point I'm thinking this might be an easier solution for multi-color upgrades. You would only need to get a DueX4 (depending on your duet version), bowden tubing, and the bowden brass unions.
The only real question would be where to get more brass union pieces?

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shadow651
Has anyone ever tried this multicolor filament merger that Adrian posted to the O2 GitHub a couple of years ago? [github.com]

I don't believe they ever managed to get that working satisfactorily.

Dave

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shadow651
Has anyone ever tried this multicolor filament merger that Adrian posted to the O2 GitHub a couple of years ago? [github.com]

At this point I'm thinking this might be an easier solution for multi-color upgrades. You would only need to get a DueX4 (depending on your duet version), bowden tubing, and the bowden brass unions.
The only real question would be where to get more brass union pieces?

They have some photos on twitter showing a dual version of this working printing a frog on the Fisher printer, however how do you configure a slicer to know what to do?

Also dhgate have the bowden start/end - dont know if they are any good as Ive never delt with them.
[www.dhgate.com]|221821102

If it helps and the right person see this, I am happy to host reprappro.com for free, forever to ensure it lives on.
Let me know if you are the correct person to transfer over the domain name and files to me to I can continue to run it.
Happy to keep all copyright under RepRapPro Ltd.

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dmould

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orictosh
Also the tolerances on that hole are 0.30mm +- 0.02mm
Hand holding a Dremel might at best give +- 0.50mm So worse case nozzle size is 0.80mm rather than the 0.30mm needed/ordered by customer.
I would think also using a worn out drill bit would push it out of tolerances as well.

Why do you say the tolerance is so tight? Considering that you can print with any nozzle size between about 0.3mm and 1.0mm, I don't see why the tolerance needs be particularly good - the nozzle size does not determine the extrusion width, only its minimum and maximum width and max speed. If the nozzle is not quite the same size as has been set in the slicer it will not affect the print significantly (though you could always set the size retrospectively to be equal to whatever the diameter of the hole turns out to be - as measured by inserting various SWG wires).

You can buy a small hobbyist drill press that takes a Dremmel, or probably fabricate something to hold the tool for a one-off hole.

Dave

The tolerances are stated on the Drawing of the 0.30mm quick-set-nozzle inside file 737.pdf
A good engineer will do his best to obtain that value, some of the engineers I have approached have stated they can't obtain that level with their current equipement and would need investment to obtain equipment that would be able to produce that value.

It will produce a good quality component rather than a bad one.
You say nozzle size does not determine extrusion width, I strongly disagree. If the filament diameter is larger or smaller than entered in slic3r that causes over/under extrusion resulting in a failed/bad quality of the printed design.

Here is info about extrusion width in which it uses a formula which has nozzle_diameter as a variable.
[manual.slic3r.org]

Here is an article on the importance of tolerances [www.designworldonline.com]

The Ormerod 2 accuracy is 0.1mm on dimensions and having a worn nozzle would cause loads of problems and cause the previous value to increase so parts that need to fit don't as designed.

Nozzle diameter does not determine extrusion width when filament is being laid down in an object. It only affects the diameter when extruded into mid air. While Slic3r fails to recognises this fact I will not use it.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

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DADIY

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shadow651
Has anyone ever tried this multicolor filament merger that Adrian posted to the O2 GitHub a couple of years ago? [github.com]

At this point I'm thinking this might be an easier solution for multi-color upgrades. You would only need to get a DueX4 (depending on your duet version), bowden tubing, and the bowden brass unions.
The only real question would be where to get more brass union pieces?

They have some photos on twitter showing a dual version of this working printing a frog on the Fisher printer, however how do you configure a slicer to know what to do?

Also dhgate have the bowden start/end - dont know if they are any good as Ive never delt with them.
[www.dhgate.com]|221821102

I can't imagine that there is too much to screw up with the bowden unions - so I might give them a try. The unions cut their own threads into the PTFE.... so unless they are the wrong inner diameter they should be fine. If the outside dimensions are wrong that's easy to fix. Adrean posted the scad file for that part. So it'll be easy to remix as needed.


Personally I wouldn't configure slic3r, other than to tell it I have 3 tools. Retraction distance might also need to be increased because more bowdens = more play in all of those connections

In the RepRapFirmware (I use DC42's fork - but I think it's possible in all of them) Each tool is defined in terms of what motor and heater it uses - so tools 0 1 & 2 would all use heater 1 (heater 0 is typically the bed), but have independent motors. This would be the same with a E3D Cyclops.
see defining a tool in the Gcode wiki for more info [reprap.org]

The part that would be different would be some firmware settings. The RepRapFirmware has a Tpre and a Tpost file for each tool number - I forget how they are named (probably T1pre.g or something), but there is one in the default firmware for tool 0 ; they are located in the sys folder on the SDcard
When a Tool is selected the Tpre gcode is run, when a tool is unselected Tpost gcode runs.

You have to know the distance from the bowden into the nozzle (which would be different for each motor as they enter at different spots) and put something like this in the files

Tpre

G1 E100 F3600 ; move filament most of the way down the multicolor connector
G1 E5 F100 ; move down the rest of the way

Tpost

G1 E-5 F100
G1 E-100 F3600

I'm doing this from memory, but that should be generally correct.
You could also have the nozzle move to some mounted wiper to get ooze off the nozzle by programing the commands into the pre/post files. Which may or may not be needed - I have no idea at this point.


The only potential issue is the Tpre will run at the start of a build, so you have to make sure that you deselect your current tool in your stop code so Tpost runs. Otherwise you'll have filament loaded into the nozzle when you try to move it 100mm or whatever. On something like a E3D cyclops or Chimera that's not an issue

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/08/2016 11:52AM by shadow651.

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orictosh
The tolerances are stated on the Drawing of the 0.30mm quick-set-nozzle inside file 737.pdf
A good engineer will do his best to obtain that value, some of the engineers I have approached have stated they can't obtain that level with their current equipement and would need investment to obtain equipment that would be able to produce that value.

A good designer on the other hand will not specify a tolerance tighter than what is required.

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orictosh
You say nozzle size does not determine extrusion width, I strongly disagree. If the filament diameter is larger or smaller than entered in slic3r that causes over/under extrusion resulting in a failed/bad quality of the printed design.

Filament diameter has nothing whatsoever to do with nozzle diameter. The filament diameter affects the volume of plastic that is extruded, which is completely independent of the nozzle diameter. You could print the exact same G-code file through nozzles with diameters of 0.4mm, 0.5mm and 0.6mm and there will be practically no difference in the prints produced.

Dave

There is no difference in the volume extruded, or the resulting filament width but it does affect how much the filament needs to be stretched after it comes out of the nozzle. So it does affect whether bridges droop or snap and also affects corner radius and curling, etc. However these two sentences from the slicer manual are wrong:

Quote

As said above, there's only one correct flow rate for bridging: the one that doesn't make your bridge sag or break.
Extrusions are round and their diameter is equal to the nozzle diameter.

There is a range of flow rates you can use for bridging and whether it snaps or breaks depends on the nozzle size plus the die swell, rather than the nozzle size. The extrusions are cylindrical but they are only equal to the nozzle size if you extrude that amount of plastic. In all case the cross sectional area is equal to flow rate / feed rate. The nozzle size does not enter into it.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

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shadow651

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orictosh

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trevmas
It was always in my plan to upgrade to two colour printing at some stage so an option now might be a Duet 0.8.5 and something like an e3d Chimera.{/quote]

What would be useful is if Reprappro could provide a list of suppliers for individual parts as they are no longer in the game.

Yes, trying to source the machined quick set nozzle has been hard, so knowing where it's produced would help get some in the UK as I think it's made in china or India.
Some of the machined items popped up on a site which linked above and in Switzerland [www.robofun.ch]
I don't mind importing the items into the UK, as long as I'm able to meet the required MOQ and have funds available.
Having it in stock allows me to post it quickly. It's quite tricky get the pricing so it's fair and covers the costs involved.

orictosh

I would definitely be interested in getting at least a quick set nozzle upgrade kit, if not something simular to the RRP dual color upgrade for the O2's using a duet pre v0.85 (I assume you wouldn't stock the Duet shield or the Duex4 but I could source that from Think3DPrint3D).

I'm in the United States though, would your site sell to me?

Although maybe RRP will sell it's surplus (we can hope) - in which case I'd still need to order spare nozzles etc... from your site

Yes, the site is set for US, there might import duty which your responsible for paying and delivery depends on weight, when you want it and value.
It can be adjusted as needed; Maybe I will be able to get some surplus or make contact with manufacturer of the machined parts.

With openness of the files for all parts for Ormerod printers, it just case of a bit of time and effort, with some funds, just pull the files from git hub pass them to a suitable manufacturer, pay the cost, meet the MOQ add a bit more and supply.

Interested to see what going to be in Adrian's post next week.
My plan is stock items that are quite hard to get and make the assembly easier as you can get the tools needed to build the printer
My best tool is an M3 Spanner, makes adjusting the print bed so much easier. [www.3dprintandstuff.co.uk]

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Supporting 3D Printers with Parts and Build services.
Printer: Ormerod 2 (528.4) Duel extruder set-up with Aluminium X-Rib, RRPro Firmware v1.11-ch (2016-04-08)

Hi Ian

I'm very sorry you were made redundant. It's a shock to me but for you it must be devastating news.

I would like to thank you very much for all your help over the last two years since I purchased my Ormerod 1. It's is much appreciated.

The very best of good luck in the future, with your expertise and great customer awareness you deserve recognition.

I'm sure everyone on this forum wishes you all the best.

Kind regards

Ray Carlson

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Ray

Hello,
sad to see RRP leaving the market! The nice documentation was a huge point to buy a Ormerod 1.

I had the old One Piece nozzle requested at a prototyping service here in Germany because I wanted to have a different diameter (0.4mm). The price given by them was about ~12€ per Nozzle. However, I have not ordered yet.

Unfortunately, my own experiments with the lathe were unsuccessful. I could not successfully drill a nozzle with less than 0.5mm diameter in stainless steel.

greetings from Germany,

David

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shadow651

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Davek0974

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orictosh

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Davek0974
As a busines owner, I know there are many reasons for the sudden closure of a company, none of which I would like to post here as they are not good reasons. Almost every case of closure there is time to make an announcement, time to try and take every penny by selling off stock, time for employees to look for other work, many many opportunities that so far I do not see as being taken.

It is very odd indeed, especially with new products being launched etc.

I think this forum and its users deserves a full and frank statement from RRP at the least.

I would second this

Hi Dave,
Did some enquires about getting the quick-set nozzle engineered, company I approached weren't able to make them, as it uses stainless steel 316.
They suggested needing a small high precision sliding head lathe with back ops and that 316 is mostly used in medical applications.
Would you be able or know anyone that could produce the quick-set nozzle for Ormerod 2?

Chris

Hi
its a job beyond my abilities/setup i fear. 316 is not much fun to machine.

I can look around for a place but can't do it myself i'm afraid.

Where did you see that the nozzles are 316? All the schematics I could find for the one-piece nozzles and the quickset nozzles on GitHub say they are stainless steel and don't elaborate on the type.
Is there any reason 316 was chosen? what would happen if we used a different stainless steel?

Right now my O2 is running a single one-piece nozzle. I was planning to get the 2 color upgrade but I guess that's not going to happen. Although the Duex4 is available from think3dprint3d and now that they've fixed the noisy thermistor ground problem...... It's almost better than the expansion board RRP was selling anyways.
If I wanted to do that now I'd have to replace the entire hotend with something else, unless someone's going to be getting supplies of all of the parts unique to the O2(nozzles, tapered brass nuts, hot end blocks etc....)
And since so few of us would actually purchase anything but the nozzles..... I doubt that will be very economical.
I guess my O2 is probably going to stay the way it is, someday I'll have to get/build a different printer.

I feel bad for the people who just got kits, my O2 took a few months + 2 warranty claims on bad parts to get it operational; granted part of that was the shipping time to the US.

I might know someone who can precision machine Stainless steel parts (316 is better with heat than the other stainless steels, and also doesn't tarnish like other Stainless steels!), he works next door to me so if you can point me to the CAD files I could get him to price up a batch!

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tig124

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shadow651

Quote
Davek0974

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orictosh

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Davek0974
As a busines owner, I know there are many reasons for the sudden closure of a company, none of which I would like to post here as they are not good reasons. Almost every case of closure there is time to make an announcement, time to try and take every penny by selling off stock, time for employees to look for other work, many many opportunities that so far I do not see as being taken.

It is very odd indeed, especially with new products being launched etc.

I think this forum and its users deserves a full and frank statement from RRP at the least.

I would second this

Hi Dave,
Did some enquires about getting the quick-set nozzle engineered, company I approached weren't able to make them, as it uses stainless steel 316.
They suggested needing a small high precision sliding head lathe with back ops and that 316 is mostly used in medical applications.
Would you be able or know anyone that could produce the quick-set nozzle for Ormerod 2?

Chris

Hi
its a job beyond my abilities/setup i fear. 316 is not much fun to machine.

I can look around for a place but can't do it myself i'm afraid.

Where did you see that the nozzles are 316? All the schematics I could find for the one-piece nozzles and the quickset nozzles on GitHub say they are stainless steel and don't elaborate on the type.
Is there any reason 316 was chosen? what would happen if we used a different stainless steel?

Right now my O2 is running a single one-piece nozzle. I was planning to get the 2 color upgrade but I guess that's not going to happen. Although the Duex4 is available from think3dprint3d and now that they've fixed the noisy thermistor ground problem...... It's almost better than the expansion board RRP was selling anyways.
If I wanted to do that now I'd have to replace the entire hotend with something else, unless someone's going to be getting supplies of all of the parts unique to the O2(nozzles, tapered brass nuts, hot end blocks etc....)
And since so few of us would actually purchase anything but the nozzles..... I doubt that will be very economical.
I guess my O2 is probably going to stay the way it is, someday I'll have to get/build a different printer.

I feel bad for the people who just got kits, my O2 took a few months + 2 warranty claims on bad parts to get it operational; granted part of that was the shipping time to the US.

I might know someone who can precision machine Stainless steel parts (316 is better with heat than the other stainless steels, and also doesn't tarnish like other Stainless steels!), he works next door to me so if you can point me to the CAD files I could get him to price up a batch!

He can also do fine drilling down to 0.3mm into Stainless etc (I have already spoken to him about this for a project for work - Probe embedded into Concrete to measure Corrosion - Thats my Day job!)

Hi Tig124,

I would be keen on ordering a few quick-set nozzles if you do find someone who can make them.

Hi,

Check the pdf file attached, it's for the 0.3mm version. The others aka the 0.5mm nozzle and other parts are locked in solid-works files upon the [github.com]

The file [github.com]
Bom.ods - shows the relation of numbers to parts for a ormerod 2 Quick-Set-Hot End duel upgrade kit

738 - 0.5 Stainless Steel Nozzle
739 - Duel Colour Heater Block
736 - Duel Colour Cooling Block
737.pdf (Attached)- 0.3 Stainless Steel Nozzle

It would be great to convert the solid-works files which show the engineering drawings into PDF
Even better if RRP could release current suppliers making the machined parts, some of the parts above can be made with a laser cutter, just load the files from the DXF folder.

Chris

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/08/2016 06:29PM by orictosh.

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Supporting 3D Printers with Parts and Build services.
Printer: Ormerod 2 (528.4) Duel extruder set-up with Aluminium X-Rib, RRPro Firmware v1.11-ch (2016-04-08)

Quote
tig124

Quote
shadow651

Quote
Davek0974

Quote
orictosh

Quote
Davek0974
As a busines owner, I know there are many reasons for the sudden closure of a company, none of which I would like to post here as they are not good reasons. Almost every case of closure there is time to make an announcement, time to try and take every penny by selling off stock, time for employees to look for other work, many many opportunities that so far I do not see as being taken.

It is very odd indeed, especially with new products being launched etc.

I think this forum and its users deserves a full and frank statement from RRP at the least.

I would second this

Hi Dave,
Did some enquires about getting the quick-set nozzle engineered, company I approached weren't able to make them, as it uses stainless steel 316.
They suggested needing a small high precision sliding head lathe with back ops and that 316 is mostly used in medical applications.
Would you be able or know anyone that could produce the quick-set nozzle for Ormerod 2?

Chris

Hi
its a job beyond my abilities/setup i fear. 316 is not much fun to machine.

I can look around for a place but can't do it myself i'm afraid.

Where did you see that the nozzles are 316? All the schematics I could find for the one-piece nozzles and the quickset nozzles on GitHub say they are stainless steel and don't elaborate on the type.
Is there any reason 316 was chosen? what would happen if we used a different stainless steel?

Right now my O2 is running a single one-piece nozzle. I was planning to get the 2 color upgrade but I guess that's not going to happen. Although the Duex4 is available from think3dprint3d and now that they've fixed the noisy thermistor ground problem...... It's almost better than the expansion board RRP was selling anyways.
If I wanted to do that now I'd have to replace the entire hotend with something else, unless someone's going to be getting supplies of all of the parts unique to the O2(nozzles, tapered brass nuts, hot end blocks etc....)
And since so few of us would actually purchase anything but the nozzles..... I doubt that will be very economical.
I guess my O2 is probably going to stay the way it is, someday I'll have to get/build a different printer.

I feel bad for the people who just got kits, my O2 took a few months + 2 warranty claims on bad parts to get it operational; granted part of that was the shipping time to the US.

I might know someone who can precision machine Stainless steel parts (316 is better with heat than the other stainless steels, and also doesn't tarnish like other Stainless steels!), he works next door to me so if you can point me to the CAD files I could get him to price up a batch!

Here is the PDF Schematic on GitHub:
[github.com]


This should be the solidworks model of the nozzle. But I don't have anything that can open it to verify that.
[github.com]


It would also be good if we could also get the following made - since they are all the hot end parts one would need for an 'upgrade' from one-piece. But we (the community that is) probably won't need as many of them as you shouldn't need to replace them unless something goes horribly wrong:

• Tapered Brass Nut - I can't find the schematics at the moment on GitHub. I've attached the pdf schematics for the old tapered nut for the one piece nozzles. As I recall the only difference is that the new nuts use M4x0.7 threads NOT M5 as this file states!. If anyone can find this file on GitHub that would be great
• Aluminum heating block - Again I can't seem to find this file, but it's just a hunk of aluminum with the M4x0.7 threads a hole for the heating cartridge and a hole for the thermistor. I know RRP had the hole very highly toleranced to the cartridges they supplied. If that's not possible we can do what many others do and have it clamp around the cartridge with a screw.
• Aluminum cooling block - Again, can't find the GitHub files. and I'm not as familiar with it.
• MDF spacer - this shouldn't be too difficult to get - again no files.

Not sure if any of the above are available elsewhere (except from the suppliers that RRP used). I suspect not because they are all unique to this hotend.
Pictures of most of this stuff can be found on the hot end assembly page. Since I'm not sure how much longer RRP's website will stay up I'm linking to a Jan 6th 2016 version of the page on the Internet Archive's website.
[web.archive.org]

If anyone is interested, the internet archive doesn't save most of the web automatically, but you can request it to save a page (one page at a time) I tried to save all of the O2's documentation and troubleshooting pages, I might have missed a few, and I didn't have time to add any of the other printers documentation.
Hopefully someone in RRP will see the earlier post about transferring ownership...... but if not I wanted to back up as much as possible. As RRP's documentation is/was stellar compared to most RepRap kits.


EDIT:
I see Chris beat me to it! But he did forget the Tapered nut and the MDF spacer

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/08/2016 06:31PM by shadow651.

OK give me a few days and I will come back to you..... I will aim to speak to him early part of the week (Have my appraisal in Manchester Wednesday and busy bodies in the office Thursday and Friday!)

No problem

From the reprap pro documentation the MDF spacer file is 106.1.dxf File Located in the DXF Folder uses Laser cut 6mm Ply
The file for the Tapered nut (TAPERED NUT MK2 ) could be this solid works file that starts with 794.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/08/2016 06:57PM by orictosh.

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Supporting 3D Printers with Parts and Build services.
Printer: Ormerod 2 (528.4) Duel extruder set-up with Aluminium X-Rib, RRPro Firmware v1.11-ch (2016-04-08)

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shadow651

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tig124

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shadow651

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Davek0974

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orictosh

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Davek0974
As a busines owner, I know there are many reasons for the sudden closure of a company, none of which I would like to post here as they are not good reasons. Almost every case of closure there is time to make an announcement, time to try and take every penny by selling off stock, time for employees to look for other work, many many opportunities that so far I do not see as being taken.

It is very odd indeed, especially with new products being launched etc.

I think this forum and its users deserves a full and frank statement from RRP at the least.

I would second this

Hi Dave,
Did some enquires about getting the quick-set nozzle engineered, company I approached weren't able to make them, as it uses stainless steel 316.
They suggested needing a small high precision sliding head lathe with back ops and that 316 is mostly used in medical applications.
Would you be able or know anyone that could produce the quick-set nozzle for Ormerod 2?

Chris

Hi
its a job beyond my abilities/setup i fear. 316 is not much fun to machine.

I can look around for a place but can't do it myself i'm afraid.

Where did you see that the nozzles are 316? All the schematics I could find for the one-piece nozzles and the quickset nozzles on GitHub say they are stainless steel and don't elaborate on the type.
Is there any reason 316 was chosen? what would happen if we used a different stainless steel?

Right now my O2 is running a single one-piece nozzle. I was planning to get the 2 color upgrade but I guess that's not going to happen. Although the Duex4 is available from think3dprint3d and now that they've fixed the noisy thermistor ground problem...... It's almost better than the expansion board RRP was selling anyways.
If I wanted to do that now I'd have to replace the entire hotend with something else, unless someone's going to be getting supplies of all of the parts unique to the O2(nozzles, tapered brass nuts, hot end blocks etc....)
And since so few of us would actually purchase anything but the nozzles..... I doubt that will be very economical.
I guess my O2 is probably going to stay the way it is, someday I'll have to get/build a different printer.

I feel bad for the people who just got kits, my O2 took a few months + 2 warranty claims on bad parts to get it operational; granted part of that was the shipping time to the US.

I might know someone who can precision machine Stainless steel parts (316 is better with heat than the other stainless steels, and also doesn't tarnish like other Stainless steels!), he works next door to me so if you can point me to the CAD files I could get him to price up a batch!

Here is the PDF Schematic on GitHub:
[github.com]


This should be the solidworks model of the nozzle. But I don't have anything that can open it to verify that.
[github.com]


It would also be good if we could also get the following made - since they are all the hot end parts one would need for an 'upgrade' from one-piece. But we (the community that is) probably won't need as many of them as you shouldn't need to replace them unless something goes horribly wrong:

• Tapered Brass Nut - I can't find the schematics at the moment on GitHub. I've attached the pdf schematics for the old tapered nut for the one piece nozzles. As I recall the only difference is that the new nuts use M4x0.7 threads NOT M5 as this file states!. If anyone can find this file on GitHub that would be great
• Aluminum heating block - Again I can't seem to find this file, but it's just a hunk of aluminum with the M4x0.7 threads a hole for the heating cartridge and a hole for the thermistor. I know RRP had the hole very highly toleranced to the cartridges they supplied. If that's not possible we can do what many others do and have it clamp around the cartridge with a screw.
• Aluminum cooling block - Again, can't find the GitHub files. and I'm not as familiar with it.
• MDF spacer - this shouldn't be too difficult to get - again no files.

Not sure if any of the above are available elsewhere (except from the suppliers that RRP used). I suspect not because they are all unique to this hotend.
Pictures of most of this stuff can be found on the hot end assembly page. Since I'm not sure how much longer RRP's website will stay up I'm linking to a Jan 6th 2016 version of the page on the Internet Archive's website.
[web.archive.org]

If anyone is interested, the internet archive doesn't save most of the web automatically, but you can request it to save a page (one page at a time) I tried to save all of the O2's documentation and troubleshooting pages, I might have missed a few, and I didn't have time to add any of the other printers documentation.
Hopefully someone in RRP will see the earlier post about transferring ownership...... but if not I wanted to back up as much as possible. As RRP's documentation is/was stellar compared to most RepRap kits.


EDIT:
I see Chris beat me to it! But he did forget the Tapered nut and the MDF spacer

No problem

From the reprap pro documentation the MDF spacer file is 106.1.dxf File Located in the DXF Folder uses Laser cut 6mm Ply
The file for the Tapered nut (TAPERED NUT MK2 ) could be this solid works file that starts with 794.

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Supporting 3D Printers with Parts and Build services.
Printer: Ormerod 2 (528.4) Duel extruder set-up with Aluminium X-Rib, RRPro Firmware v1.11-ch (2016-04-08)

The MDF spacer is part #641, according to the CSV parts list. The DXF itself can be found here: [github.com]

If you're using an E3D hotend, you don't need it.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/08/2016 07:41PM by 0x0000.